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Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern

Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern
4.5★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.2K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

About This Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates the dramatic black spiral ribbon with crisp white edging and dangling ghost figures shown in the photos. You'll crochet one long spiral 'tube' that twists into a hanging spiral and make five petite ghost charms plus one larger bell-shaped ghost for the bottom. The pattern uses simple amigurumi shaping and continuous rounds to achieve smooth curves and consistent texture.

Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The black-and-white contrast gives a graphic, modern look while the tiny sewn-on arms and bead eyes add personality and charm. Finished piece is lightweight and ideal for hanging from a hook, doorknob, or mantel.

Why You'll Love This Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because the bold black spiral paired with the tiny white ghosts creates such a striking silhouette—it's minimal yet whimsical. I also enjoy how each little ghost has its own tiny personality; sewing them onto the spiral is incredibly satisfying. The construction is forgiving and addictive — once you get going you’ll want to make a whole row of these for every season.

Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this spiral ghost mobile because it combines structural crochet with cute amigurumi details — you get the satisfaction of making a large dramatic piece alongside tiny, quick-to-finish charms. The strong black-and-white contrast really makes the ghosts pop and gives a modern edge to traditional Halloween motifs.

I often customize this project by changing the spiral color to navy with silver edging, or making the ghosts pastel for a nursery mobile. You can alter the number of ghosts, change safety eyes to embroidered eyes for a child-safe version, or shorten/lengthen the tube to suit your hanging space. Try adding small felt stars or LED fairy lights threaded through the tube for a magical effect.

If you want to size up or down, simply swap yarn weight and adjust the number of spiral rounds: bulkier yarn and fewer rounds give a chunkier look, while finer yarn and more rounds create a delicate, elongated spiral. Have fun experimenting — this pattern is a great canvas for your creativity.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned twists and uneven spiral shaping; always mark the first stitch of each round. ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumps or sagging areas; practice keeping even tension through the long spiral rounds. ✗ Not stuffing ghosts as you decrease makes it hard to reach and achieve smooth shapes; stuff gradually and firmly where directed. ✗ Failing to secure safety eyes before final stuffing may cause difficulty attaching them; lock eyes in place early in construction. ✗ Joining white edging incorrectly can create a bulky seam; work the edging in single crochets carefully and check placement often. ✗ Cutting tails too short when sewing pieces together makes finishing messy; leave long tails and weave them back through multiple stitches. ✗ Using a hook that is too large for amigurumi yarn causes stuffing to show through; use a slightly smaller hook than recommended for the yarn.

Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern

Create a spooky-chic hanging mobile featuring a dramatic black-and-white twisted spiral ribbon and a family of floating ghosts. This pattern teaches you to crochet a long spiral ribbon with contrasting edge detailing and several small and one large bell ghost, complete with tiny arms and safety eyes. Perfect for Halloween decor or a year-round whimsical accent.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Spiral Ghost Mobile Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 120g in main color Black
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 100g in main color White
  • 03
    Small amounts (10-20g) in detail colors: Black for nose if embroidered (use same black as ribbon)
  • 04
    Optional: Spare 20-30g of white if you prefer larger ghosts or more dangling charms

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for standard amigurumi fabric (use smaller if your tension is loose)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter stitches on small ghosts (optional)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 6mm-10mm (use 6mm for tiny ghosts, 10mm for large bell ghost)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving tails
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and positioning
  • 09
    Small round nose beads or black embroidery yarn for ghost nose
  • 10
    Optional: Clear craft glue to secure safety eyes for extra security

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Large Bell Ghost Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-16 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place 10mm safety eyes between rounds 11-12, leaving 8-10 stitches between them for a friendly expression. Secure but do not finalize shaping; we will stuff through the lower opening later.

Round 17 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 18 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin light stuffing at round 18 — fill gradually with polyester fiberfill so the top stays rounded and smooth. Avoid overstuffing; the bell ghost needs a softer drape to allow the skirt to flare.

Round 19 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 20 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 21 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 22 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 23 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do NOT fully close the opening yet — the bell ghost in this design has a cylindrical body that continues below this section into the bell skirt. We are forming the top cap here; position the top securely and weave in tail after attaching to next section.

— Large Bell Ghost Body / Bell Skirt :

Round 1 :

Join white yarn to the last round of the head seam location with a sl st, ch1, 6 sc evenly spaced into space around the base you left (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Work these rounds in continuous rounds (do not join) to create a smooth cylinder. Add moderate stuffing as you work the second repeat of round 6 so the body is gently filled; you want a soft, slightly floppy bell.

Round 7 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 9 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 10-12 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

We are beginning to flare the skirt. The increases create a fluted, ruffled edge later; keep your tension even. Add a little more stuffing so the top of the bell has stability but leave the skirt area less packed for a natural drape.

Round 13 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 15 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 17 :

Switch to 'ruffle' edge: *ch2, skip 1st st, 1 sc in next st; rep around* — this creates slight scallops (48 scallop points)

Info :

For the flared edge you can also opt to use single crochet shells (5 dc in same st, skip 2) to create a pronounced frill. The pattern photo shows a subtle scalloped hem; choose the shell if you prefer a more dramatic bell bottom.

Round 18 :

Work a decorative edging: in each ch2 loop work (sc, ch1, sc) to make small loops (48)

Round 19 :

Fasten off and weave in ends. Add security stitches to hold the skirt shape by going through the first ruffle loop and adding two passing stitches creating a slight wave.

Info :

Sew or weave in the long tail from the head into the top of the bell opening to close gaps and secure the head to the bell. The bell ghost in the photo has a crisp head and a hanging skirt — secure thoroughly so the piece hangs evenly.

— Small Ghost (Make 5) - Head/Body Combined :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-9 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Place 6mm safety eyes between rounds 7-8 about 6-8 stitches apart depending on how wide you want the face. For very small ghosts you can also embroider eyes with black thread to avoid small parts if gifting to children.

Round 10 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 11 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Info :

Begin stuffing lightly here; small ghosts should be firm but not rock hard. Stuff enough to keep a plump shape while keeping the bottom flexible for the tail curve.

Round 12 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 13 :

6 dec (6)

Round 14 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Shape a gentle tail by threading tail through a few exterior stitches and pulling slightly to create a tapered curling tail effect like in the photo.

Info :

For the little curl seen in the photos, after fastening off sew through the outermost spiral rows on the tail to bias the tail slightly to one side. You can add a small stitch of glue for extra hold before final weave-in of the tail.

— Small Ghost Arms (Make 10 — 2 for each ghost) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

4 sc (4)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 2 (6)

Round 4 :

6 sc (6)

Round 5 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing; lightly stuff or leave flat depending on desired arm thickness

Info :

Sew arms to sides of the small ghosts between rounds 6-8, positioning them symmetrically. Tuck the tail into the body and weave securely. Use matching white yarn so seams are invisible.

— Small Ghost Face (All small ghosts) :

Info :

Sew or secure 6mm safety eyes with washers on the inside; place about 2-3 stitches between the eyes depending on face width. Embroider or sew a small round nose with black yarn, approximately 1-2 stitches below the eyes.

— Spiral Ribbon (Main Long Spiral) :

Info :

The spiral in the photos is a long, slightly flattened tube with a white crocheted edge. We will construct a black tubular spiral worked in continuous rounds to a long length and then add a white trim around one long edge. The black tube is worked in continuous rounds to produce an even surface that can be twisted naturally into a spiral.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring using black yarn (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

We now have a small tube circumference of 36 stitches — this will create a slightly flattened tube after blocking and twist. If you prefer a wider ribbon, increase rounds 5-6 to reach 48 sts circumference, but note that wider tube may be heavier and behave differently when twisted.

Round 11-120 :

1 sc in each st (36) — work continuous rounds until the tube measures the desired hanging length. The example photo's finished spiral is roughly 70-90cm long; to achieve a similar length you will likely need 110-130 rounds at this circumference depending on your gauge. For this pattern we will instruct to work rounds 11-120 then check length.

Info :

Work in a continuous spiral — do NOT join rows with slip stitch. Place a stitch marker at the first stitch of your row only to track start. The goal is a long uniform tube that is flexible. Every 10-15 rounds take a moment to smooth and ensure the tube is not twisting on itself prematurely.

Round 121 :

1 sc in each st (36) — check length; if you need more length continue in 1 sc each st until you reach the desired length (example photo used about 120 rounds total)

Info :

When your tube reaches desired length, prepare for finishing the ends: flatten the end a little and stitch closed with invisible st, leaving a short tail to attach to the hanger ring. We will add a white contrasting edge along one long seam; mark the seam side before doing the edging.

Edging Round 1 :

With white yarn, join at one seam on the edge of the tube. Working around the long edge only, sc evenly into the edge stitch of each round creating a white line. You will work 1 sc into the edge stitch for each round; if your tube has 120 rounds you will make 120 sc edging stitches to form a white rib that spirals along the tube.

Info :

Because the tube is worked continuous rounds, the white edging will create the visible white diagonal stripe shown in the photo. Keep the white edging tension slightly firmer so it sits proud of the black tube for contrast. Carry the white yarn inside if you intend to continue more edging around the other sides; otherwise, cut and weave ends neatly.

Edging Round 2 :

Work 1 sc in each white sc around to bulk up the stripe if desired (optional) — this will make the stripe more pronounced (same number of stitches as in Edging Round 1)

Info :

If you prefer the flat ribbon effect rather than a rounded tube, after finishing the tube you may choose to press it flat and stitch one side down along the entire length to create a flattened ribbon with a white edge. The method given in this pattern uses a tube that naturally flattens and twists into a spiral similar to the reference photo.

— Hanging Cord / Attachment Loop :

Round 1 :

With white yarn, ch 30 (or desired hanging loop length), sl st into first ch to form a loop. Fasten off leaving long tail (optional: make a small tube for the loop by working sc in rounds over the chain to create a sturdier cord)

Info :

Attach the loop securely to the top end of the spiral tube by stitching the tube's top rounds 1-3 together around the loop, then weaving in ends. For extra safety, anchor with a small amount of craft glue under the stitches around the loop base.

— How to Make Hanging Strings for Ghosts :

Info :

Cut lengths of white yarn to desired hanging distances for each ghost. The sample arrangement uses 5 small ghosts spaced approximately 10-18cm apart along the spiral with the large bell ghost on the bottom. Make cords between 8cm and 25cm depending on placement. Tie the cords to the inside of the spiral tube by pulling yarn through the tube and knotting to an inner row, then bringing the cord out through the seam or an eyelet hole you create with a darning needle.

Info :

If you want the floating effect seen in the photo, attach the cords along different sides and lengths so the small ghosts dangle at varying heights and positions relative to the spiral curve. Tie a secure knot inside the tube and add a dab of glue to prevent slipping.

— Final Eyes and Nose Details (All Ghosts) :

Info :

For the little ghosts use 6mm black safety eyes; for the large bell ghost use 10mm black safety eyes. Insert eyes before closing bodies completely, affix washers on the inside, and then continue stuffing and closing. For the round nose seen on each ghost use a small black felt circle sewn on or a tiny black bead sewn through the stitch directly under the eyes. Make sure any beads are firmly secured with thread and glue if giving to small children—otherwise embroider the noses for safety.

— Assembly and Finishing :

Info :

After all pieces are made, position your spiral on a flat surface and begin attaching the hanging cords and ghosts. The large bell ghost is attached centrally to the bottom of the spiral or to the longest cord to hang below the spiral. Adjust the cords until the composition balances and then securely knot and weave in all ends.

Info :

If the spiral does not hold the exact twist you want, you can damp-block it by misting lightly, shaping the spiral with your hands, and allowing it to dry on a curved form (a rolled towel works well). This helps the ribbon hold its spiral formation.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion of the large bell ghost into the top opening of the bell body. Pin in place first, then sew securely using ladder stitch all around, ensuring even attachment and no gaps between head and bell skirt.
  • Position small ghosts on hanging cords: thread each cord through the top-most stitch of the top rounds of the small ghost, tie a double knot inside the ghost and secure with a few whip stitches. Trim yarn leaving tails woven into the inside of the ghost to hide knots.
  • Attach hanging cords to the spiral tube: pull cord through the tube and tie a strong knot to an internal row. Anchor the knot by sewing it to several internal stitches around the tube to prevent slipping.
  • Position arms on small ghosts between rounds 6-8 on each small ghost. Pin each arm to the side and sew through both arm and body with a whip stitch for secure attachment. Make sure arms are symmetrical and face slightly forward.
  • Secure the large bell ghost to the bottom of the spiral either by tying a long cord from the bell top to the tube end or by stitching the top of the bell directly to the inner end of the tube. Reinforce with multiple passes of yarn to secure the weight.
  • Weave and hide all loose ends through internal stitches on the spiral and the ghosts. Use a needle to bury tails deep into the tube or ghost so they do not poke out. Add small dabs of clear craft glue under knots for extra insurance if the mobile will hang outdoors or be handled frequently.
  • Hang the completed mobile from the attachment loop and check balance. If one side pulls more, adjust cord lengths and anchor placements on the spiral to perfect the hanging orientation.
  • Optional: Add lightweight beads or small charms to the cords above each ghost to add weight or decorative interest; make sure they are evenly distributed to keep the mobile balanced.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like the small ghost tails and the top of the large bell ghost.
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing the head fully — they cannot be repositioned once locked in place.
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates small, stiff pieces while too loose creates open holes where stuffing shows.
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams and avoid bulky junctions.
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry; small adjustments at this stage are much easier than later.
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches. If you find holes, reduce hook size by one step.
  • 💡If you plan to gift the mobile to small children, avoid using glued beads and choose embroidered eyes/noses instead of safety eyes.

This spiral ghost mobile brings playful spooky style to any room with its dramatic twist and floating friends. Each little ghost can be made in minutes but gives so much character when grouped together. The black-and-white contrast is modern and bold, while the soft crocheted texture keeps it cozy and inviting. Hang it for Halloween or let it float in your craft corner year-round — making and displaying this piece is pure delight. 🎃🧶

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, the finished mobile will measure approximately 70-90cm (28-36 inches) in total hanging length. The large bell ghost is roughly 10-12cm tall, and each small ghost is approximately 4-6cm tall. Using different yarn weights will proportionally change the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use other yarn weights, but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Thicker yarn will make a larger, bulkier spiral and ghosts; thinner yarn yields a more delicate mobile.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a professional, shiny look and are easy to install, but embroidered eyes are ideal for young children since they avoid small detachable parts and allow more expressive options.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 50-100 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient for the small ghosts and the large bell ghost. The tube spiral is left mostly unstuffed for flexibility; you will only need stuffing for the ghosts.

Can I make the arms and ghosts poseable?

You can make limbs poseable by inserting thin floral wire or pipe cleaners before finishing the arms; however, for safety and stability it's usually better to keep these small pieces soft and unposed. If adding wire, wrap the wire ends with tape and encase in yarn for safety.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at round starts helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension throughout, using a hook slightly smaller than the yarn recommendation. When stuffing, add small amounts of fiberfill at a time and distribute evenly to avoid lumps and visible holes.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love. You can make the spiral in seasonal colors, add embroidered faces, or use glittery yarn for the edging. The structure is flexible and forgiving for creative tweaks.