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Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern

Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern
3.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.5K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern

This table runner is built from repeating sunflower-style granny motifs joined along their long axis with small green connector motifs and framed by a bold rust scalloped border. The runner in the photo measures a medium table runner length and shows layered texture from puff and shell stitches that mimic petals. Colors used include deep chocolate brown for the centers, two shades of orange/peach for layered petals, a soft cream for the background, and olive green for diamond connectors. The finished edge is a defined scallop in a warm rust color that gives a finished, polished look.

Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern is written to be worked motif-by-motif and joined as you go, with a final edging worked around the entire assembled length. It’s versatile—make it shorter or longer by changing the number of sunflower motifs.

Why You'll Love This Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern

I love this runner because it brings such a cozy, autumnal vibe to a table without being fussy. The layered petal texture gives a handcrafted, dimensional look, and the green diamond connectors peek through to add a little contrast. I also enjoy how simple color swaps instantly change the mood—brighter colors make it sunny and cheerful, while muted tones make it rustic and elegant.

Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how easy it is to customize this runner: change the petal colors to bright yellows and a deep green for a summertime look, or use jewel tones for a more formal table. I often experiment with variegated yarn for the petal rounds to create rich, blended hues without changing colors every round.

I also suggest trying alternate borders: a picot edging for a daintier finish or a denser crab-stitch reverse single crochet for a rustic framed look. If you want a longer runner, make more sunflower motifs and connectors; if you want a placemat instead, use a single motif and work the border wider.

I find that blocking each motif before assembly makes the biggest difference—your joins lie flat and the scallops look crisp. Don’t be afraid to play with color placement and make a runner that feels like yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when starting rounds can cause misalignment between motifs and uneven borders; mark every round start for consistency ✗ Carrying unused yarn without checking tension can create lumps or tight spots; either weave tails or cut and rejoin cleanly ✗ Joining motifs with a different tension than the motif round will warp motif shapes; practice join-as-you-go with scrap to match tension ✗ Working the scallop edge too tightly can curl the runner; maintain a relaxed tension and block gently if needed ✗ Overstuffing connector motifs (if you add any fill or stiffener) will distort the flat motif; keep motifs flat and evenly tensioned ✗ Not counting clusters or shells will change motif geometry; keep track of cluster counts visually and with a tally

Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern

Create a warm, sunflower-inspired table runner made from joined granny sunflower motifs with leafy green connectors and a scalloped rust border. This runner features rich autumn tones—deep brown centers, layered orange petals, soft cream background and olive-green accents—finished with a bold rust scallop that frames the piece beautifully. Perfect to brighten a kitchen table or dresser with handmade charm and texture.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Sunflower Granny Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 150g deep chocolate brown (center color)
  • 02
    120-150g burnt orange (primary petal color)
  • 03
    80-100g light peach/apricot (secondary petal color)
  • 04
    200-250g soft cream/ivory for the background rounds
  • 05
    70-100g olive/leaf green for connector motifs
  • 06
    100-150g rust/orange-red for the scalloped border

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5.0 mm (H) crochet hook (recommended; adjust for gauge)
  • 02
    4.5 mm (7) crochet hook for tighter details (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing in ends and joining
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • 06
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 07
    Blocking pins and blocking mat (optional, recommended for flattening motifs)
  • 08
    Optional: small crochet blocking wires to shape scallops

Progress Tracker

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— Notes & Gauge :

Info :

This pattern is written in US terms. The runner pictured is made from worsted weight yarn using a 5.0 mm hook. Gauge is not critical for motifs, but one sunflower motif in the pattern should measure approximately 7.5-8 inches across after blocking. Adjust hook size to match desired motif size. Work tightly enough that background stitches do not gape between clusters.

— Sunflower Motif (Make 4) :

Round 1 :

With Color A (deep chocolate brown), make a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as first hdc), work 11 hdc into ring, pull tight and join with sl st to top of ch2 (12 hdc) (12)

Round 2 :

Ch 2, hdc in same st, *2 hdc in next hdc; rep from * around, join with sl st to top of ch2 (increase round) (24)

Round 3 :

Change to Color B (burnt orange). Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, *ch 2, sk 1 hdc, 2 dc in next hdc; rep from * around; join with sl st to top of ch3 — you will have 12 small dc pairs separated by ch-2 sps (12 pairs + ch-2 spaces)

Info :

Round 3 forms the base points for petals; ensure your ch-2 spaces are even. Use a stitch marker to mark the first pair if you need to identify petals later.

Round 4 :

Switch to Color C (light peach). In each ch-2 space from previous round work: (ch 1, 5 dc) all in same ch-2 sp to create petals; sl st to next dc pair base to position for next petal. Complete 12 petals and join to first petal with sl st (12 petals)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 2, sc between petal clusters (into the top of the dc pairs), ch 2, sc at tip of next petal (sl st area); rep around to form small open mesh between petals; join with sl st (12 sc + mesh)

Info :

After Round 5 the motif will look like a sunflower with a round brown center and 12 puff-like petals. Keep tension consistent—petals should sit neatly without pulling the center in.

Round 6 :

Change to Color B (burnt orange). Ch 3 (counts as dc), *sk next sc, dc shell (5 dc) in next ch-2 sp between petals, ch 1, dc in next space between shells; rep around to create a scalloped petal-lift (12 shells) ; join with sl st (12 shells)

Round 7 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sk to next shell, sc between shells; rep around. This adds a small lacy spacer (12 sc + ch-3 loops)

Round 8 :

Change to Color D (soft cream). Into each ch-3 loop work: (sc, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, sc) to create a rounded petal ring and begin the background round; join with sl st (12 shell anchors)

Info :

Round 8 is your first background round. Work loosely enough to let petals relax outward. This round begins to form the flat granny-style background that will allow motifs to join together seamlessly.

Round 9 :

Ch 3, dc in same st, *ch 2, sk to next sc anchor, 2 dc in same anchor; rep around making 12 dc pairs separated by ch-2 sps; join with sl st (12 pairs)

Round 10 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 2, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep around (creates mesh of ch-2 spaces for join points) ; join with sl st (24 mesh points)

Round 11 :

Ch 3, dc in same st, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch-2 sp (shell), ch 1, sc in next ch-2 sp; rep around to form alternating shells and sc anchors; join with sl st. You will have 12 shells around (12 shells)

Info :

Place a temporary stitch marker at the top of any shell that will align with the long axis center of the runner—this helps orient motifs when joining.

Round 12 :

Change to Color D (soft cream). Ch 3, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each shell across, ch 1 between shells for a continuous granny-like ring; join with sl st — 12 large shells (12)

Round 13 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 2, sc in ch-2 sp of large shell; rep around to create evenly spaced ch-2 holes that will be used to join connector motifs later; join with sl st (24)

Round 14 :

Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next sc, *ch 1, sk 1, dc across next 4 anchors (or as counts allow), repeat around forming a moderate shell-stitch expansion that smooths motif edge; join with sl st (approx. 48 dc anchors)

Round 15 :

Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-space around to tidy edges; join with sl st (48)

Info :

At this point the sunflower motif is approximately 7.5-8 inches across. If making a smaller or larger motif, adjust hook or yarn weight. Block motifs lightly to flatten petals and even out stitches before joining.

Round 16 :

Ch 3, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in next shell base to form corner-style shells at the cardinal points and additional dc between shells to create 12 broad anchors; join with sl st (12 larger shells)

Round 17 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in next shell valley; rep around to create larger open spaces for decorative join; join with sl st (24)

Info :

Decide which two opposite shell valleys will be the long ends of the motif (top and bottom) — these are the points where motifs will be joined end to end. Mark them with scrap yarn for accurate alignment when assembling the runner.

Round 18 :

Change to Color B (burnt orange). Ch 2, hdc in each st and ch-space around to begin solidifying the background and provide a stable join line; join with sl st (approx. 72 hdc)

Round 19 :

Ch 1, sc in each st around to even out texture; join with sl st (72)

Round 20 :

With Color D (soft cream), ch 3, *2 dc in next st, ch 1, sk 1, repeat around creating an open lacy edge ; join with sl st (approx. 96 dc clusters)

Round 21 :

Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-space around to tidy the edge; join with sl st (96)

Round 22 :

Info :

Info :

Fasten off leaving a 10-12 inch tail if this motif will be joined to the next motif later. Make four identical sunflower motifs. When making the second, third and fourth motifs, you will join along the long axis using specified join-as-you-go instructions in the Connecting Motifs section. Block each motif before assembly for the neatest join.

— Green Connector Motif (Make 3) :

Round 23 :

With Color E (olive green), make a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into ring, pull tight and join with sl st (12 dc)

Round 24 :

Ch 3, dc in same st, *ch 2, 2 dc in next dc; rep around to form 6 shell clusters separated by ch-2 spaces; join with sl st (6 shells)

Round 25 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 2, sc between shells; rep around to form small mesh square center; join with sl st (12 mesh anchors)

Info :

These small green motifs act as diamonds/squares sitting between sunflower motifs. They provide both color contrast and structural join points. Keep them flat and even by blocking.

Round 26 :

Ch 3, *2 dc in next ch-2 space, ch 1, sk to next mesh anchor; rep around forming 6 broader shells; join with sl st (6 shells)

Round 27 :

Change to Color D (soft cream). Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-space around to tidy the motif; join with sl st. This creates a neutral frame around the connector (approx. 36 sc)

Round 28 :

Ch 3, 2 dc in next st, *ch 1, sk 1, 3 dc in next anchor; rep around forming a larger square-ish motif; join with sl st (approx. 24 anchors)

Round 29 :

Ch 1, sc in each st around to even the edge; join with sl st (approx. 24)

Round 30 :

Info :

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tails for sewing or joining as you go. Make three green connector motifs to sit between the four sunflower motifs. You may also make one or more extra connectors to test placement before joining full runner.

— Joining Motifs (Join-as-you-go instructions) :

Round 31 :

Info :

Info :

We will assemble the runner by joining sunflower motifs end-to-end with green connectors placed in the diamond positions visible between petals. Orientation note: identify the top and bottom shell valleys marked earlier on each sunflower motif. Align motifs so centers line on the long axis and petals nest visually. Join using whip stitch or sl-st join; I prefer a slip-stitch join-as-you-go using the ch-2 join holes created in Round 13 of the sunflower motif and Round 27 of the connector motif.

Round 32 :

Position Motif 1 (Sunflower) RS up. Position Motif 2 RS up adjacent so that a side ch-2 hole on Motif 1 aligns with a corner hole on a connector motif (or with Motif 2 directly if you are joining only two at one time). Insert hook through both motifs and sl st with Color D (soft cream) into both holes to join, working sl sts across 6-8 matching join points along the long edge. Fasten off. (Join length approx 6-8 sl sts)

Round 33 :

Repeat to join Motif 2 to a green connector by aligning a diagonal ch-2 hole of the green motif to the ch-2 hole of Motif 2 and sl st to secure. Continue this sequence: Sunflower - Connector - Sunflower - Connector - Sunflower - Connector - Sunflower. Use consistent spacing and keep tension loose enough to allow motifs to sit flat. (3 connectors, 4 sunflowers joined)

Info :

If you prefer, sew motifs together with mattress stitch/wool sewing using the long tails left earlier for a nearly invisible join. Try one join method on scrap to determine how it lays before joining everything.

Round 34 :

After joining, run a round of single crochet in Color D (soft cream) around the entire perimeter of the assembled runner to even out edges and create a stable base for the scallop border: sc evenly around all motif edges, working 3 sc in each corner-like shell to maintain shape. Join with sl st. (stitch count will vary by assembled width, approximate 420-480 sc)

Info :

This single crochet round helps standardize spacing between motifs and makes the scallop border easier to work. Count and place extra sc at places that look loose or gappy to produce a smooth edge.

— Scalloped Border (Rust) :

Round 35 :

Change to Color F (rust). Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Work 5 dc in next 2 stitches to begin a scallop, sk 2 sc, sl st into next sc to anchor the scallop, sk 2 sc; rep along the long edges and continue around ends to create full scalloped shell repeats. Join with sl st (approx. 60-72 scallops depending on runner length).

Round 36 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 2, 7 dc in top of next scallop (work into the midpoint of the scallop cluster), ch 2, sc in next anchor; rep around to enlarge scallops; join with sl st.

Info :

Work scallops loosely to create rounded edges. If scallops flare outward too much, reduce cluster size (for example use 5 dc instead of 7 dc) on subsequent rounds.

Round 37 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in middle of scallop (approx. after 3 or 4 dc), rep around to create a picot-like accent between scallops; join with sl st.

Round 38 :

Ch 3, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the apex of each scallop to create a defined shell peak, sc between peaks to stabilize; rep around; join with sl st.

Info :

Try the runner on your table now to ensure scallop placement complements table edges. Adjust scallop frequency if necessary by adding or removing repeats at the ends for symmetric shape.

Round 39 :

Ch 1, sc in each st around to tidy and firm the scalloped edge; join with sl st. This final tidy round provides a neat finishing line and helps scallops hold their shape (approx. 300-360 sc).

Round 40 :

Fasten off and weave in all ends using a yarn needle. Trim tails close after weaving at least 1.5 inches into the fabric to secure.

Info :

Blocking: Gently block the finished runner on a flat surface, pinning the scallops and petals to open them slightly and to flatten the runner. Steam or wet-block according to yarn manufacturer recommendations. Allow to dry fully before use.

— Alternate Join-as-You-Go Method (Detailed joins per motif) :

Round 41 :

Info :

Info :

If you prefer to join while making the second motif: on the final round of Motif 2 (Round 21 equivalent for that motif), do not fasten off. Instead, orient Motif 2 adjacent to Motif 1 and with RS faces matching, sl st through the ch-2 hole of Motif 2 and corresponding ch-2 join hole on Motif 1. Work sl st joins every 2-3 shells to secure firmly. Continue to finish the round after joining and then fasten off. This creates a seamless seam with matching thread color.

Round 42 :

Repeat this join-as-you-go approach for all subsequent motifs: when reaching the round that creates ch-2 join holes, join to the adjacent motif before closing the round. This requires keeping motifs aligned; use pins or stitch markers if necessary.

Info :

Joining with sl st uses less yarn and forms a flatter seam than sewing with a yarn needle in many cases. Choose the method that gives the appearance you prefer.

— Optional Decorative Embellishments :

Round 43 :

Info :

Info :

Optional: Add a row of small bobble clusters in Color B (burnt orange) spaced evenly inside each scallop to echo the sunflower petals. To make bobbles: (yo, insert hook, pull up loop) x 5, yo and pull through all loops on hook, ch 1 to close bobble and sc to space. Attach bobbles evenly—test on scrap to place nicely.

Round 44 :

Optional: For a slightly stiffer runner, work a very loose fabric stiffener onto the underside after blocking (test on yarn scrap first). Avoid stiffening the scallops too much or they may become brittle.

Info :

Care: Hand wash cold and lay flat to dry to maintain shape. Avoid machine washing which can flatten petals and distort scallops.

— Pattern Summary & Adjustments :

Round 45 :

Info :

Info :

To lengthen or shorten: add or remove sunflower motifs and connector diamonds. Each additional sunflower motif plus a connector adds roughly 7-9 inches to the total runner length depending on blocking and motif spacing. To make the runner wider, change the motif stitch counts in rounds 14-16 to add more shells per motif and adjust joining points accordingly.

Round 46 :

Info :

Info :

To change the look: swap the green connectors for a neutral cream to create a subtler contrast, or use a bright color to make the diamonds pop. Use variegated yarn for the petal rounds to create multi-tonal petals similar to the photo sample which uses mixed warm peach/orange shades.

Round 47 :

Info :

Info :

When making multiple runners as gifts, photograph your motif arrangement before joining—this helps re-create color placement consistently across multiple pieces.

— Finishing Checks :

Round 48 :

Info :

Info :

Check for stray loops or loose ends under the scallops. Weave ends into the body of the runner, following the direction of stitches, and then trim closely. If you notice small gaps at joins, add a few invisible whip stitches with matching yarn to pull edges neatly together.

Round 49 :

Info :

Info :

Lay the runner flat and re-pin after washing if it becomes slightly misshapen. Gently re-block and reshape scallops with steam from an iron held above the fabric (do not press) for final smoothing.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join sunflower motifs in sequence using the marked shell valleys: align the top and bottom shells of each motif and join using slip-stitch or mattress stitch through the ch-2 join holes formed in Round 13 of each motif
  • Place green connector motifs between each pair of sunflower motifs aligning their corners with the ch-2 join holes on adjacent sunflowers; join with sl st through both motif holes to secure
  • After joining all motifs, work one round of single crochet in soft cream around the entire perimeter to even the edges and provide a base for the scallop border
  • Attach the scalloped border by working shell clusters evenly around the single-crochet perimeter; make sure to add or remove scallop repeats at the ends so the runner ends symmetrically
  • Weave in all long tails securely by threading them through several rounds of stitches on the wrong side; trim after weaving to avoid loose ends
  • Block the assembled runner by pinning scallops and petals flat, and lightly steam or wet-block according to yarn instructions to shape and flatten motifs evenly
  • If using the join-as-you-go method, secure each join with an extra sl st or two at high-stress points (ends of runner) for durability
  • For extra durability, sew a few hidden reinforcing stitches through several motifs at the back center where motifs meet to prevent separation during use

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuffing is not used for flat motifs but blocking is essential—block motifs individually before joining to get flat, even shapes
  • 💡When joining motifs, keep consistent tension; too tight a join will pucker motifs, too loose will leave gaps
  • 💡Pin motifs into position before joining to ensure symmetry along the runner length and even spacing of connectors
  • 💡Work the scallop border with slightly looser tension to allow rounded edges; if they curl, block them gently
  • 💡Weave in ends at least 1.5-2 inches into the fabric and knot if needed to prevent tails from pulling free
  • 💡Choose washable yarn for a table runner that will see more practical use; hand wash recommended to preserve texture
  • 💡Keep a spare connector motif handy while testing layout so you can tweak spacing before committing to permanent joins

This sunflower granny table runner brings handmade warmth to any surface—each motif is a little celebration of texture, color and craftsmanship. The layered petals and scalloped border create depth and movement, while the olive-green accents add a pleasing contrast. Whether for everyday charm or seasonal decor, this runner is a joyful piece to crochet and display. 🧶🌻✨

You ask,

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

With the yarn and 5.0 mm hook used in the sample, the finished runner measures approximately 36-40 inches long and 7.5-9 inches wide. Size will vary with yarn weight, hook size, and motif tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Using thicker yarn (bulky) will increase motif size and runner length quickly; thinner yarn will make smaller motifs. Adjust hook size accordingly—typically one or two hook sizes smaller than yarn label for a firm fabric.

Do I need to block motifs before joining?

Blocking each motif flat before joining produces the best results—petals will lie neatly and joins will be even. Light steam or wet-block per yarn instructions.

Can I join motifs with a sewing needle instead of sl st?

Absolutely. Many crocheters prefer mattress stitch or whip stitch with a yarn needle for a nearly invisible join. Whichever method you choose, keep tension consistent to avoid gaps or puckering.

How much yarn do I need in total?

Estimate listed yarn amounts: approximately 150g brown, 120-150g burnt orange, 80-100g peach, 200-250g cream, 70-100g green, 100-150g rust for border. Exact needs depend on runner length and hook size.

What wash instructions are best for this runner?

Hand wash cold and lay flat to dry to preserve shape. If you use machine-washable yarn, wash in a gentle cycle inside a laundry bag, then reshape and lay flat to dry.

Can I make the runner longer or shorter?

Yes — add or remove sunflower motifs and connectors. Each additional sunflower + connector adds roughly 7-9 inches depending on blocking and spacing.

How do I prevent scallops from flaring?

Work the scallop rounds with slightly looser tension and add a tidy sc round beneath them to stabilize. Blocking will help set the shape.