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Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern

Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern
4.7★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.8K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern

This pattern guides you through making a long sunflower lace table runner made from repeated large sunflower medallions, smaller circular doilies and many small textured leaves and buds linked by decorative chainwork. Colors shown are deep chocolate, medium cocoa and warm beige that create a layered, dimensional sunflower look. The motifs are made separately and joined by crochet chains to keep the runner flat and flexible. This runner looks beautiful on wooden or neutral tables and pairs perfectly with natural decor.

Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern is modular—work as many repeats as needed to fit your table. Use mercerized cotton or DK cotton yarn for a crisp stitch definition and gentle drape. Blocking at the end gives the petals their defined, lacy shape.

Why You'll Love This Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines bold, sculptural sunflower motifs with delicate lace connectors that feel both vintage and modern. The layered petals and textured leaves add real depth and shadow-play on a table surface, and the neutral color palette keeps it versatile for many interiors. I also enjoy that the design is repeatable—it's satisfying to make one motif after another and watch the runner grow.

Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how this runner lets you play with color while keeping structure simple—swap the beige petals for mustard or soft yellow for a brighter look. I also enjoy alternating medallion colors to create pockets of contrast between sunflower repeats.

I like to mix yarn weights carefully: use the same yarn weight but try a slightly glossier cotton for the centers (Color A) to make the sunflower centers pop, and a matte cotton for petals for softer texture. I sometimes add a small tassel or bead at each scallop for a boho twist. Finally, adjust spacing by changing the connector chain length—ch25 for a snug look, ch40 for a more airy, lacy runner.

Make it your own by adding tiny embroidered seeds in the center discs or by working the edge scallops in a subtle metallic thread for evening tables—those little changes make a huge visual difference while staying true to the core construction.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs and uneven chains; mark the first stitch of each round and each motif anchor point. ✗ Pulling yarn too tightly when joining motifs can distort the lace; keep joins relaxed and even before blocking. ✗ Not blocking the motifs after finishing causes petals and leaves to lie flat and lose shape; always wet-block or steam-block for best results. ✗ Forgetting to weave in ends before assembly makes later joining bulky; weave shorter tails in and secure before final seams. ✗ Using a hook that is too large for the thread weight creates large holes and floppy motifs; use a smaller hook for crisp stitch definition. ✗ Overstuffing small leaf/bud motifs (if stuffing is used for tiny texture) will make joins lumpy; use no stuffing or just a tiny pinch of fibrefill if needed.

Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern

Create a warm, botanical-inspired sunflower table runner featuring large layered sunflower medallions, delicate circular doilies and textured leaves. Worked in two contrasting browns and a soft beige, this long runner has an airy lace feel and organic connecting chains for a handmade, rustic centerpiece. The design is modular—make a short runner or repeat the motif to fit your table length.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Sunflower Lace Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight mercerized cotton (approx. 3.5–4 ply) or sport/DK cotton blend, approximately 300–450g total depending on runner length
  • 02
    Dark chocolate (Color A) – approx. 80–120g for centers and dark leaves
  • 03
    Medium cocoa/brown (Color B) – approx. 80–120g for intermediate leaves and connector chains
  • 04
    Warm beige/cream (Color C) – approx. 120–180g for petals and round doilies
  • 05
    Small amounts (10–20g each) of contrasting accent colors if desired (e.g., taupe or tan)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for DK cotton (or adjust to yarn label and personal tension)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter detail (optional)
  • 03
    Stitch markers (at least 6–8)
  • 04
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 05
    Small scissors
  • 06
    Pins and blocking board or foam mat
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Optional: light starch or spray starch for crisp blocking
  • 09
    Optional: small amount of polyester fiberfill if you prefer tiny padded buds

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— Notes & Gauge :

Info :

This runner is constructed from individual motifs worked flat and joined with crocheted chains. Use DK/cotton and 3.5mm hook for the look shown. Gauge is not crucial for fit but vital for motif size consistency—one large sunflower motif (finished flat) should measure approximately 18–20cm across when using specified yarn and hook. Block motifs for best shape. Repeat motifs to reach desired runner length.

— Large Sunflower Motif (Make 4–6, repeat as needed) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11-16 :

1 sc in each st around (60)

Info :

Rounds 11–16 build the sunflower center height. Place a marker at the beginning of round 11 and move it each round. If you prefer a slightly deeper center, add 1–2 more even rounds here.

Round 17 :

(Petal anchor round) *(dc3tog-type petal base worked across next 3 sts: (tr in next st, tr in next st, tr in next st) closing cluster, sc in next st)* x15 (consumes 60 sts) (60)

Info :

Round 17 forms 15 primary petal anchor groups—each repetition consumes 4 sts (3 for cluster + 1 sc) giving 15 repeats for 60 stitches. Work the 3 treble/tr cluster worked into the next three stitches (one tr in each of the next 3 sts), then sc into the following stitch to anchor the petal base. Keep clusters loose so petals have body.

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st around (60)

Round 19 :

Petal row 1: *Work in previously formed cluster: into the group of three stitches that formed the cluster, (ch1, 4 dc around the three stitches as a fan, ch1), sl st into next sc to anchor* x15 (60)

Info :

This round builds the first set of petals as small fans—use 4 dc fans to give height. Make sure to work evenly into the three-stitch cluster space created previously. The stitch count remains 60 because each petal anchors into an existing sc.

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st around (60)

Round 21 :

Petal row 2 (elongated petals): *sl st to the center of the fan from previous round, ch2, (dc, tr, dc) worked around center of fan, ch2, sl st to next sc* x15 (60)

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st around including sl st anchors (60)

Info :

Petal row 2 increases height and introduces elongated stitches for a dimensional petal effect. Keep tension consistent and let petals lift away from center. If a fuller petal is desired, replace (dc, tr, dc) with (2 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc) but maintain anchors evenly—you may need to block to shape.

Round 23 :

Transition round: *sc in next 2 sts, ch3, sk next st* x20 (60)

Round 24 :

Work into ch-3 loops to create decorative shell: *(10 dc shell in each ch-3 sp), sl st into next sc* x20 (60 shells visually but stitch count remains 60)

Info :

Round 24 creates the prominent outer petal lacy shell by working big shells into chain spaces. The shells do not change the total counted stitches; each shell is anchored by the following sc. Use stitch markers every 5 shells to keep track when the motif becomes large.

Round 25 :

1 sc in each anchor sc around (60)

Round 26 :

Layered petal clusters: *into the top of each shell, ch1, (fpdc around the central dc of the shell, dc in next stitch to form a raised petal), ch1, sl st into next sc* x20 (60)

Round 27 :

1 sc in each st around (60)

Info :

Rounds 25–27 build layered texture on the petals—front post stitches provide height and shadow for a sunflower look. If stitches get tight, switch to a slightly larger hook for post stitches only and then return to main hook for next round to keep counts even.

Round 28 :

Decorative picot edge between petals: *sc in next 2 sts, (ch3, sl st into base of ch to form picot), sc in next 3 sts* x12 (60)

Round 29 :

1 sc in each st around (60)

Round 30 :

Outer decorative ring: *(ch5, sl st into every 5th dc of outer shells) around, join with sl st to first ch* (creates 12 loop spaces for connectors) (count not altered)

Info :

Round 30 prepares attachment loops for the runner connectors. Space loops evenly—aim for 12 anchor loop points around the outer ring to match image spacing. These loops will later be used to join the sunflower motif to connector chains and smaller doilies. If you need more or fewer attachment points, add or reduce loop spacing evenly.

Round 31 :

Fasten off Color A (center) if using contrasting yarns. Weave in ends back into the center disc. Join Color C (beige) in a discrete stitch for final edge detailing.

Round 32 :

Edge finishing with Color C: Join with sl st, ch1, *sc around each st and through shell top (60)*, sl st to join (60)

Round 33 :

1 sc in each st BLO to form a defined ridge under petals (60)

Round 34 :

Decorative braid: *ch6, sl st into every 6th sc around to create braided loops for aesthetic connection points* x10–12 (visual, count unchanged)

Round 35 :

Finishing round: 1 sc around join points and tidy any loose loops (60)

Round 36 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for joining to connectors. Weave ends and block with pins to shape petals and shells firmly.

Info :

Stuffing note: These sunflower motifs are flat; do not add stuffing. Blocking is essential—wet-block and pin petals so shells curve upwards slightly like sunflower petals. Allow to dry fully before assembly.

— Small Circular Doily Medallion (Make 8 per runner) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 7 :

*ch4, sk 2 sts, sc in next st* repeat around to create looped spaces (30)

Round 8 :

Into each ch-4 loop: (4 dc, ch2, 4 dc), sl st into next sc to form scallops—repeat around (visual scallops, stitch count remains 30 anchors)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each anchor sc (30)

Round 10 :

Decorative picot ring: *(sc in next 2 sts, ch3, sl st at base of ch to form picot) x10* (30)

Round 11 :

1 sc around to tidy (30)

Round 12 :

Edging: *ch3, sl st into next sc to create small brides around edge* x30 (decorative loops)

Round 13 :

Fasten off and weave in ends. Block gently to open scallops.

Info :

These medallions sit between sunflower motifs and help elongate the runner visually. Make them in Color C (beige) for contrast against darker centers, or substitute Color B for a tonal effect.

— Leaf Motif (Make many; small and medium sizes) :

Small Leaf – Round 1 :

Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, tr, hdc, sc in last ch; rotate to work along opposite side of foundation chain: sc, hdc, tr, dc, hdc, sc. Sl st to first sc. (This creates a 12-stitch leaf shape.)

Small Leaf – Round 2 :

Edge row: sc around leaf edge, working 2 sc in tip points for rounded shape. (approx. 14–16 sc total) Fasten off leaving tail for sewing.

Medium Leaf – Round 1 :

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc in last ch; continue on opposite side mirroring the increases to tip, sl st to join. (approx. 20 sts)

Medium Leaf – Round 2 :

Edge with picot highlights: sc around, adding (ch3, sl st) at tip and base to create small decorative points. Fasten off leaving tails for sewing.

Info :

Leaves are worked flat and attached around flower edges and along connector chains. Make leaves in Color A (dark) and Color B (mid brown) for an organic look. Add a small center ridge by embroidering a running stitch down the center with a length of contrasting yarn if desired.

— Tiny Bud / Pod Motif (Make 12–20) :

Round 1 :

5 sc in magic ring (5)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x 5 (10)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st around (10)

Round 4 :

Shaping tip: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts* x2 (8)

Round 5 :

1 sc around (8)

Round 6 :

Optional: Place a tiny pinch of fiberfill inside to give light volume; continue with 1 sc around and fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Info :

Tiny buds are optional but help break up the negative space between big motifs. Work them alternating dark and mid brown for visual interest. If you prefer fully flat decoration, make buds without any stuffing and press flat during blocking.

— Connector Chain Units (Make enough to join motifs in series) :

Connector Chain Basic Unit :

Join yarn at an attachment loop on sunflower (from Round 30), ch 30–40 depending on desired spacing, sl st into a corresponding attachment loop on the next motif/medallion. Repeat to form two parallel chains linking both sides so motifs sit centered.

Round 1 :

Ch 30, sl st back along chain to create a neat cord: *(sl st in next ch) across, fasten off at end and weave tail through chain for stability.*

Round 2 :

Optional: Reinforce chain by crocheting a cover: Join yarn, sc in first ch, sc in each ch across, sl st to join—this makes a tubular cord. Fasten off leaving tail for joining.

Info :

Typically the runner uses two long chains per connection (one on each side) plus diagonal cross chains that create the lacy lattice between motifs. Alternate dark and medium yarn for connectors to echo leaf tones. Keep chain tension consistent; too tight will pull motifs together, too loose will sag.

— Decorative Cross-Connectors & Lattice (Work as you join) :

Unit Step :

From main side chain, ch 10, sl st into small ring or picot on adjacent medallion/doily to create diagonal connection. Reinforce by sc in this ch and add a small leaf or bud onto the center of the diagonal seaming for decoration.

Round 1 :

After joining long side chains, create 3–4 diagonal connections per side between motifs to form lattice. Each diagonal: ch10, sl st to opposite loop, ch back 6, sl st to a nearby loop on the side chain to create a small triangular segment. Fasten off and secure tails.

Info :

These cross connectors are worked on-the-fly while joining motifs. Use a long tapestry needle to weave tails through the chains once dry-blocked to tidy joins. Place decorative leaves or buds at junctions with a few whip stitches, taking care not to pull the lattice too tightly.

— Runner Edge & Finishing Motifs :

Round 1 :

Once motifs are joined into a continuous runner, work an edging round along the outermost chain/loops: join yarn at the outermost loop, ch1, sc evenly across loops and exposed chain stitches, placing (sc, ch2, sc) in each open picot to create a scalloped edge. Work evenly to maintain symmetry.

Round 2 :

Edge scallop round: into each ch2 sp work (5 dc) to form a large scallop, sl st to next sc. Repeat all the way around the runner perimeter. Fasten off and weave ends.

Round 3 :

Optional fringe or tassel: At each large scallop, work a short tassel or chain tassel (ch20, fold, tie) if you desire a bohemian finish. Alternatively keep simple scallops for a neater look.

Info :

Edge consistency matters—pin the runner while blocking and measure scallop spacing with a ruler to keep uniformity. For a straight runner edge use blocking wires or long pins along both sides and spray lightly with water and starch if you want stiffer shape.

— Blocking & Final Shaping :

Info :

Wet-block each motif: soak motifs in cool water with a drop of mild soap, remove excess water by blotting in towel, pin each motif on blocking board to exact dimensions, shaping petals and shells. Allow to dry fully. When joining, use blocked motifs for best alignment. If using spray starch, apply lightly after blocking to increase crispness.

Info :

Assembly tension tip: When you first join two motifs with chains, pin both motifs on a flat surface to ensure spacing and alignment. Temporarily join with loose stitches to check position, then sew secure passes with a yarn needle and matching yarn for permanent joins.

— Repeat & Scale :

Info :

The pattern as written makes a runner with 4 large sunflower motifs, 8 medallions and numerous leaves and buds between them—adjust the number of large motifs for desired runner length. For a table of 120–150cm, 4 sunflowers gives a balanced look; larger tables may need 5–6 repeats.

Final Tip :

Keep a layout of all motifs on a large table or floor before joining—this helps arrange leaf color distribution and connector routes for a balanced final runner.

Assembly Instructions

  • Block all motifs flat before assembly – pin each motif to the specified size and allow to dry. This ensures petals and scallops hold shape and prevents distortion during joining.
  • Place sunflower motifs along the center line of your table or work surface spaced evenly; position smaller doilies and medallions between sunflowers so the negative spaces look balanced before connecting with chains.
  • Attach long side connector chains first: find the attachment loops on two adjacent motifs (Round 30 loops on sunflowers) and join with ch30 (or desired length), sl st to the corresponding loop on the next motif. Repeat for the opposite side chain to create two parallel chains per connection.
  • Add diagonal cross connectors next: from the long side chain, ch10 and sl st into a loop on the neighboring medallion/doily to form lattice triangles. Reinforce each diagonal with a return sc or sl st to the chain to keep tension consistent.
  • Sew leaves and tiny buds into junction points: position small leaves and buds along chain junctions and use a yarn needle to tack them with 3 invisible stitches each, ensuring they lay flat and are symmetrically placed around motifs.
  • Edge the entire runner last: join yarn at an outermost loop and work even sc around the exposed chains and loop anchors, then work scallops (5 dc in ch-2 spaces) evenly around the entire perimeter. Fasten off and weave in all tails.
  • Weave in all ends carefully, trimming close to the fabric. Re-block the joined runner lightly (pin to shape, spray with water or use steam) to set the joins and ensure the runner lays flat.
  • Optional: If piece will be used frequently, secure key joins with a few extra hidden stitches on the reverse side for durability and stability.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round and on large shells to keep count and maintain symmetry while working large motifs.
  • 💡Stuff small buds lightly only if you want slight dimension—most decorative elements should remain flat for tabletop use.
  • 💡When changing colors, fasten off cleanly and weave tails back into the motif toward the center to keep the surface tidy.
  • 💡Block all motif pieces before joining; unblocked pieces will shift and look uneven once joined into the runner.
  • 💡Keep a smaller hook on hand for detail rows (picots, shells) and a slightly larger one for post stitches only if you need relaxed tension for raised petals.
  • 💡Pin motifs into final layout and check both sides for symmetry before any permanent joining stitches.

Finishing this sunflower lace runner is so rewarding—the layered petals, little medallions and textured leaves come together into a beautiful, organic centerpiece. Each motif feels like a small work of art and the overall runner gives a handcrafted, vintage-meets-modern vibe. I hope you enjoy every step of making and blocking these motifs—there's something so calming about pinning petals and watching the runner transform. 🧶🌻

You ask,

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Using DK cotton and a 3.5mm hook, a 4-sunflower runner measures approximately 110–130cm in length and 28–32cm in width depending on petal flare. Add or remove motif repeats to fit your table.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Use a hook appropriate to the yarn; keep in mind thicker yarns will produce larger, heavier motifs and may require more yarn and sturdier blocking. Thinner thread will produce a finer, more lace-like runner.

Do I need to block the motifs?

Absolutely—blocking opens the shells and petals and gives the runner its signature lacy shape and even edges. Wet-block or steam-block and let dry fully before joining.

Can I sew motifs together instead of crocheting chains?

Yes—if you prefer a denser join, you can whip stitch motifs together using a matching yarn through anchor points. Crocheted chains keep the runner lightweight and flexible but either method is valid.

How much yarn will I need?

Approximately 300–450g of DK cotton in total for a medium-length runner (4 large motifs). Exact amounts vary based on yarn brand, hook size, and number of repeats—make extra for safety.

How do I prevent joints from pulling?

Keep connector chains slightly loose (not slack) and distribute cross connectors to balance tension. Pin motifs prior to joining and secure joins with several small stitches on the reverse side if necessary.

Can I customize colors?

Definitely—this design works beautifully in tonal neutrals, autumn palettes, or bright sunflowers. Swap the petal color for poppy orange or mustard yellow for a bolder look.

Is this suitable for beginners?

This is intermediate-level: components are straightforward, but there are many motifs and joining steps. Familiarity with cluster stitches, shells and blocking is helpful.