— Snout (Make 1) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4-6 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Info :
To create the slightly upturned dragon nose from the photo, work three even rounds then shape the tip with two gradual decreases and a little firm stuffing. Sew the snout onto the head opening between rounds 20-22, centering it below the eyes.
Round 7 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Info :
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. Pin snout into place on head and make small adjustments so it sits flush with lower face.
— Neck Tube (Join head to body) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4-8 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Info :
Work neck tube long enough to insert into the body opening when assembling — about 6-8 rounds in our proportions. Leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tube moderately so it has structure but remains flexible for head movement.
— Body :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7 :
(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)
Round 9-14 :
1 sc in each st (48)
Info :
If you wish to add the lighter-green belly as a separate sewn panel, make that now (see Belly Panel section) and continue body rounds above the point where you plan to attach. If attached later, keep the body rounds even and a little larger to accept a sewn-in belly panel.
Round 15 :
(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)
Round 16 :
(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)
Round 17 :
(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
Round 18-22 :
1 sc in each st (30)
Info :
Begin stuffing the body firmly from the bottom up — the seated dragon needs weight in the rear and base to sit properly. Stuff in small amounts and shape outward to form rounded hips and chest before decreasing for the waist.
Round 23 :
(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
Round 24 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
Info :
Do not fasten off; leave opening large enough to insert the neck tube from the head. Insert neck tube and sew around opening with mattress or ladder stitch until secure. Make sure head sits straight and centered.
— Belly Panel (Make 1, ribbed) :
Info :
Work a long flat oval in lighter green to create the ribbed belly strip that runs from chin down to base. This will be sewn to the front of the body.
Row 1 :
Ch 16. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across 12, 3 sc in last ch. Rotate and work on opposite side of chain: sc across 12, 2 sc in last ch (32)
Row 2-26 :
Turn in continuous rows (or join and work in rounds) to make a long strip approx. 24-28 rows depending on your tension. Work 1 sc in each st. To make ribs, every other row work in BLO to create slight ridges.
Info :
Block or shape the belly panel flat, then pin it centered on the body before sewing. For the look shown, the belly is slightly narrower at the top and wider at the base — trim length or shape by decreasing the width with short rows near the top if needed.
— Front Legs / Arms (Make 2) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4-8 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Info :
These rounds form the paw/hand. For the wide, rounded paw in the photos, keep these rounds unshaped and stuff firmly so paw pads look plump. Place claws later as small cone pieces sewn into the paw edge.
Round 9 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 10-14 :
1 sc in each st (24)
Round 15 :
(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
Round 16 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Round 17-18 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12) then 1 sc in each st (12)
Info :
Stuff the paw firmly and then continue stuffing the lower arm lightly so the arm can fold against the body. Leave long tail for sewing. Attach arms at body rounds 14-18 about 8-10 stitches from center front on either side for the seated look.
— Hind Legs / Feet (Make 2) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5-8 :
1 sc in each st (24)
Info :
These rounds form the broad foot base visible in the photo. Keep the bottom rounded and stuffed firmly to create a stable seated base. Consider flattening last round slightly with a few extra sl st to make a flattened sole if you wish the dragon to sit more securely.
Round 9 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (36)
Round 10-14 :
1 sc in each st (36)
Round 15 :
(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)
Round 16 :
(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
Round 17-20 :
1 sc in each st (24) Stuff foot firmly, shaping toes by sewing claw pieces in place afterwards.
Round 21 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Round 22 :
6 dec (6). Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.
Info :
Sew feet to body base at the positions indicated by pins in the photo: two larger feet slightly angled and two inner feet tucked near the body center. Reinforce stitches for stable sit.
— Claws (Make 15-18) :
Round 1 :
5 sc in magic ring (5)
Round 3 :
1 sc in each st (10)
Round 4 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 3, 1 sc (7)
Round 5 :
1 sc in each st (7)
Info :
Make claws using metallic gold yarn for the look in photos. Stuff lightly and sew the base of each claw into the toes and paw edges, clustering 3-4 claws per foot depending on width. For a sharper claw, reduce rounds and taper more with decreases.
— Tail :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5-12 :
1 sc in each st (24)
Info :
For the long, flexible tail in the photo, consider inserting a length of thin floral wire centered inside the tail before stuffing. Leave a few extra rounds at the end unstuffed so you can bend the tip to a natural curve.
Round 13 :
(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
Round 14 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Round 15-20 :
1 sc in each st (12) Add more stuffing so tail is firm but bendable.
Round 21 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (8)
Round 23 :
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Slip the end into the base and close or sew into the body base depending on desired curve length.
— Wing Structure (Outer Wing - Make 2) :
Round 1 :
Ch 6, join into ring with sl st, or 6 sc in mr to make a small base (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5-8 :
1 sc in each st (24)
Round 9 :
(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Round 10-14 :
1 sc in each st (30)
Info :
The outer wing will form the scalloped edge you see in the photo. Work in rounds and shape by increasing on the outer edge and decreasing the inner edge where it will attach to the body. Keep one or two rounds in BLO near the attachment edge to get a neat ridge for sewing.
Round 15 :
(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)
Round 16 :
(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)
Round 17 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Round 18 :
6 dec (6) Fasten off leaving long tail for joining to wing membrane and body.
— Wing Membrane (Inner Wing - Make 2) :
Info :
Use magenta (raspberry) yarn to make a flat triangular membrane. Work in rows for a pointed membrane that will be edged by the outer wing structure for a crisp two-color wing.
Row 1 :
Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (11)
Row 2 :
Ch 1, turn, sc across (11)
Row 3-10 :
Decrease 1 st at beginning and end of rows every other row to shape a triangle until piece measures desired height to match outer wing curve. Aim for approx 8-10 decreases to create a tall membrane.
Info :
Block membrane flat and pin to the outer wing rounding. Sew the membrane into the inside edge of the outer wing, using the outer wing’s inner ridge for neat attachment. Add a wire to the leading edge if you want poseable wings.
— Horns & Spikes (Make 8 small spikes and 4 larger horns) :
Small Spike Round 1 :
4 sc in magic ring (4)
Small Spike Round 2 :
4 inc (8)
Small Spike Round 3 :
1 sc in each st (8)
Small Spike Round 4 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (6)
Small Spike Round 5 :
6 dec to close or 3 dec then fasten off leaving tail for sewing (optional: make slightly longer by adding two more rounds)
Info :
Use metallic gold yarn or a gold blend for spikes tips to mimic the photograph. Stuff extremely lightly or not at all for pointed spikes. Attach in a center ridge from crown down the neck and along the tail; pin spacing about 5-7 stitches between small spikes.
Large Horn Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Large Horn Round 2 :
6 inc (12)
Large Horn Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Large Horn Round 4-7 :
1 sc in each st (18) tapering slightly near the tip by alternating dec rounds
Large Horn Round 8 :
(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)
Large Horn Round 9 :
6 dec (6) Fasten off leaving long tail. Stuff lightly and curve while sewing into place above and behind the eyes.
Info :
Make 4 larger horns for the crown and 6-8 small spikes for neck and tail. When sewing, angle the horns outward and upward as pictured. Reinforce base stitches for stability if horns are heavy.
— Decorative Beads & Fairy Lights (Optional) :
Info :
For the beaded/light-wrapped appearance, thread small round beads onto a thin cord or metallic embroidery thread and wrap loosely around horns and neck, sewing at a few anchor points. Alternatively, string battery fairy lights and carefully route the wire under stitches or pin along the seam so the battery pack sits discreetly behind the base or under a wing.
— Assembly & Finishing Touches :
Info :
Weave in all ends, attach belly panel to the front using mattress stitch, sew arms to rounds 14-18 of the body so paws rest on the knees, and attach hind feet to the base so the dragon sits balanced. Add claws, horns and spikes, and sew wings symmetrically to the upper back between rounds 8-12. Add embroidered nostrils and mouth with a few stitches of darker green or brown for subtle detail. Securely fasten and weave tails into the inner structure for longevity.
Info :
Block the wings and shape the ribs using steam or a damp cloth over the fabric for a sharper look. Use optional wire inside wing leading edges to create poseable wings or to hold the wing upright as in the photograph.
Info :
For more realism, embroider small lines on the belly ribs and add tiny French knots in complementary colors to represent scales or light catches.
This majestic emerald dragon makes a striking handmade companion with detailed horns, a ribbed belly and vibrant wing membranes. Each stitch builds texture and character, and the gold accents add a festive sparkle. Enjoy the mindful process of crocheting each piece and then seeing them all stitched together into a proud seated dragon. 🐉✨ Share your creation and celebrate the finish with a warm cup and a little pride. 🧶
