What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size (worsted yarn, 3.5mm hook), the finished dragon will measure approximately 28-32 cm (11-12.5 inches) tall when seated. Using different yarn weights will proportionally change the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn label recommended for tight amigurumi fabric). Different weights will change the finished size proportionally.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully. Safety eyes give a glossy professional look and are secure for decorative pieces. Embroidered eyes are ideal for toys for small children and allow more expressive customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 150-200 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff firmly but not overcrowded so the toy keeps its cute shape while remaining soft.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely. Insert florist wire or thin pipe cleaners before completing stuffing. Bend wire ends back on themselves or cap them to avoid sharp ends, then stuff around the wire for poseable limbs.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error early, it’s best to unravel to the last correct round. Compensating later often creates visible distortions. Use a stitch marker and row counter to help prevent errors.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with a slightly smaller hook than the yarn recommends and maintain consistent, fairly tight tension. Add stuffing in small amounts and pack into tight areas with a pencil or stuffing tool.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Swap colors for seasonal looks, embroider different expressions, or make the bow tie larger/smaller. The construction is forgiving so you can tweak proportions and colors to suit your style.

Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi

Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

Make a cuddly ruby-red dragon with a soft pink belly, deep burgundy spikes and a sweet white bow tie decorated with tiny hearts. This plush sits upright with articulated-looking wings, a rounded snout and large glossy eyes for maximum charm. Perfect as a heartfelt gift or desk companion, the pattern includes assembly and finishing tips to achieve a neat, professional result. Suitable for crocheters who enjoy shaping, small parts and playful colorwork.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

01
Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 200g in main ruby red (body, head, arms, legs, tail, wing edging)
02
50-70g in deep burgundy (spikes, horns, toes accent, inner wing/ear detail)
03
80-100g in dusty pink (belly panel and tummy)
04
30-40g in white (bow tie and collar)
05
Small amounts (10-15g) in black for nostril embroidery and small detailing

— Tools Required

01
3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
02
3.0mm (D) crochet hook for smaller details and tighter fabric
03
2.5mm (C) hook optional for spikes and tiny hearts
04
Safety eyes 12mm (shown) or 10mm for a slightly smaller look
05
Polyester fiberfill stuffing
06
Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
07
Stitch markers (at least 4)
08
Scissors
09
Pins for assembly placement
10
Optional: thin florist wire or pipe cleaners for poseable wings/arms
11
Optional: blunt tapestry needle and small pair of forceps to push stuffing into small cones

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Info :

Use a stitch marker at the start of Round 1 and move it up each round. Work tightly so stuffing won't show; a 3.5mm hook works well with worsted yarn for a dense fabric.

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-14 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 12-13 about 10-12 stitches apart (approx). For the look shown, place eyes centered on the head with 11 stitches between the eye centers. Attach backs securely.

Round 15 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 16-20 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Info :

Begin lightly stuffing the head from round 16 to maintain a rounded top. Stuff gradually and firmly enough so the eyes sit flush but not bulging.

Round 21 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (48)

Round 22 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 24 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 25 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

As you approach round 24-26, stuff firmly around the eye sockets and cheeks to keep the face full and smooth. Use a pencil or blunt tool to shape stuffing into the temples for smooth curves.

Round 26 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 27 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 28 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing if you plan to join head directly to neck later. Make sure head is well-stuffed but not overfilled to keep seam neat.

— Snout / Muzzle :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 8 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Info :

The snout on the pictured dragon is sculpted and slightly elongated. Work the rounds up and then stuff firmly before decreasing to retain shape.

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 10 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 11 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 12 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 14 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Before fully closing, embroider nostrils with black yarn using small satin stitch on the front rounds of the snout; place nostrils 6-8 stitches apart on the top-most visible curve. Fasten off and leave tail for sewing.

— Neck (Short collar section to join head & body) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Make the neck slightly shorter than the head opening — it will be sewn into the body's top opening later. Leave a long tail for sewing and lightly stuff only to keep a bit of form.

— Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

If you plan to change to the belly color later, mark the rounds where you will join the belly panel now. Carry yarn inside or fasten off and rejoin for neat color transition.

Round 13 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 14-20 :

1 sc in each st (54)

Info :

Begin stuffing the body lightly at round 16 and increase stuffing density from round 18 onward. Keep the lower body firmer to help the toy sit upright.

Round 21 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (48)

Round 22 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 24 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 25 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 26 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 27 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 28 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Leave a long tail to sew the neck to the body opening. Make sure body is firmly stuffed but leave a little space for closing after assembly with head.

— Belly Panel (Dusty Pink) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-12 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Make a flat oval by working even rounds. Adjust rounds 5-12 to match the length of your dragon's front when placed on the body. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing; position centered on front body.

— Arms (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Arms are worked in the round and stuffed lightly. Stuff hands more firmly than the arm shafts so they sit forward when attached.

Round 7 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 8-12 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 14-16 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 17 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (12) - Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Position arms on body sides at approximately body rounds 16-20 and stitch through both body and arm rounds for a secure seam. Add internal stitch-throughs if you want poseable arm movement.

— Legs / Feet (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-7 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Feet are rounded and wide to create stability — make sure to stuff the foot very firmly. The toes are created with small accent color clusters later.

Round 8 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 9-11 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 14 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 16 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 18-22 :

1 sc in each st (12) - Fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

To create claw accents, use deep burgundy yarn and embroider three small French knots or make tiny 3-sc clusters across the front toe area and sew them on. Secure well for durability.

— Ears (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Make an inner ear with deep burgundy: chain 6, sc across to create an oval insert if you want the two-tone inner. Alternatively work BLO on round 5 to create a rim and then join inner piece by sewing.

Round 6 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 7 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 9 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 4 sc (8)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (8) - Fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew ears onto head at approximately rounds 10-12, slightly angled forward. Use pins to check symmetry and angle before sewing.

— Horns / Spikes (Make 7 total: 1 center head, 2 front head, 4 tail/neck) :

Spike Set - Each Cone Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 7 :

6 dec (6) - Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Work spikes in deep burgundy for contrast. Stuff lightly, using a toothpick to push fiberfill into tight cones. Sew spikes spaced along the head center from forehead to back and a line down the tail.

— Wings (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Ch 26, sl st to form a short loop, ch 1 (foundation loop method) - or create a starting ring then work around to create a long oval base (use 26 chains)

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc in each ch around both sides of the chain to form an oval (52 sc total) - join to first sc

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (52)

Round 4 :

1 sc in next 4, hdc next 6, dc next 6, hdc next 6, 1 sc in remaining sts (52)

Round 5 :

Fold wing along the center and work 1 sc across the fold to create a slight ridge (work about 12 sc across folded edge) - leave remaining wing open for membrane

Round 6-8 :

1 sc in each st (52) - Fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

The pictured wings have a fluted membrane and a rolled edge. To create the inner membrane color, you can surface crochet a row of deep burgundy down the inner edge in BLO. Pin wings to body to decide final angle before sewing.

— Wing Edging Detail (Optional, make 2) :

Round 1 :

Join deep burgundy to wing edge and sc around working 3 sc in each corner for ruffle (approx 56 sc)

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc in each st (56) - Fasten off

Info :

Sew wing edging to the outer rim so the dark color peeks from the inside of the wing, matching the photo where the wing inner membrane is darker than the body.

— Tail :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-8 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 9 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 10-12 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 13 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 4, 4 sc (8)

Round 14-15 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Round 16 :

Work a short flat tail fin by ch 8, sc across, fold and join along the last row to create a rounded fin; attach to last tail round

Info :

Sew small spikes down the tail center using the burgundy cones made earlier. Position the tail so the stuffed base sits flat against the bottom of body for stability.

— Bow Tie Collar (White) :

Round 1 :

Ch 28, join to form a loop making sure it fits snugly around neck (or ch to desired collar circumference)

Round 2-3 :

1 sc in each ch around to create collar band (28)

Round 4 :

Fasten off and set aside. Make a separate bow by making a 12-ch rectangle: ch 12, sc across both sides to form loop, 3 rounds of sc, fasten off

Info :

Wrap the bow around the collar and stitch the edges to hold in place. The large red heart sits centered on top of the bow. Adjust collar size to fit snugly but not too tight.

— Big Heart (Center of Bow) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18) - Fold and sculpt into heart shape by sewing edges with mattress stitch, fasten off

Info :

Sew the heart firmly to the bow center. For extra dimension, stuff the heart lightly and close tightly. Add two small hearts on either side using the small heart pattern below.

— Small Heart Accent (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12) - Fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew the small hearts to each side of the bow as shown in the photo. Use a few tight whip stitches to keep them flat against the bow face.

— Small Details & Embroidery :

Info :

Use dark burgundy to embroider two thin eyebrow ridges above the eyes using loose satin stitches. Embroider small nostrils on the snout top and a smile line under eyes if desired. Keep stitches small and evenly spaced.

— Assembly Prep :

Info :

Before sewing, block parts flat with pins to match angles, and stuff final pieces fully. Use pins to mark placement of legs at body rounds 1-6 (bottom), arms at rounds 16-20 and ears at head rounds 10-12. Check symmetry by counting stitches from center front.

— Final Finishing Rounds & Closing :

Info :

When sewing the neck into the body's top opening, use the long tail from both pieces and mattress or whip stitch around the opening. Close any remaining hole in the body by decreasing evenly and using a yarn needle to draw closed. Weave in tails through several rounds before trimming.

Info :

Trim any stray fibers and use a lint brush to neaten pile. Optional: add a small amount of blush to cheeks with craft chalk for soft color without staining yarn.

Assembly Instructions

Attach the snout to the front of the head centered between the eyes. Pin to the head at head rounds 13-15, then sew through both layers using long tail and ladder stitch so the muzzle sits smoothly and symmetrically
Sew the neck into the body opening: insert the neck into the top of the body, align center front with body center, then whip stitch through both neck and body rounds evenly around for a secure join
Position and sew arms to the sides of the body at body rounds 16-20. Use a ladder stitch and add extra stitches through the arm and body to anchor for play; shape arms slightly forward with stuffing before final sewing
Attach legs to the bottom of the body at the front and back by aligning foot centers to body rounds 2-6. Sew with strong stitches, and reinforce with an internal thread that travels between body and feet if the toy will be handled often
Pin wings to the upper back at body rounds 10-14 and sew the wing seam through several back rounds to anchor. For extra stability, tack down the bottom of each wing to the lowest attaching round so the wings sit slightly flared
Sew spikes and horns into the head and tail using long tails. Space head spikes evenly from forehead to crown, with 2 smaller on frontal crown and a larger center spike. Add tail spikes in a straight line down the tail. Use a few stitches through base to anchor each spike
Stitch the white collar around the neck and secure the bow on top. Sew the large heart at the center and add the two small hearts on the bow wings using tight whip stitches so they cannot be pulled free
Weave all yarn ends into the body through several rounds and trim flush to finish. Check all seams and reinforce any area that feels loose. Add safety backing washers to eyes if required

Important Notes

💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - once locked they cannot be repositioned
💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches
💡Use invisible decreases for smooth shaping on visible areas like the snout and body front

You did it — your Big Ruby Love Dragon is ready to spread charm and hugs! Each carefully crocheted section comes together to form a lovable, stable plush with a sweet heart-adorned bow tie. The combination of ruby, burgundy and dusty pink makes this dragon feel warm and special. 🧶 Keep your finished dragon proudly on display or give as a heartfelt gift; it's sure to brighten anyone’s day. 💝✨

Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

Intermediate Level

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About This Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

Why You'll Love This Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

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Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

Materials Needed for Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

— Tools Required

Progress Tracker

— Head :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Round 6 :

Info :

Round 7 :

Round 8 :

Round 9-14 :

Info :

Round 15 :

Round 16-20 :

Info :

Round 21 :

Round 22 :

Round 23 :

Round 24 :

Round 25 :

Info :

Round 26 :

Round 27 :

Round 28 :

Info :

— Snout / Muzzle :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Round 6 :

Round 7 :

Round 8 :

Info :

Round 9 :

Round 10 :

Round 11 :

Round 12 :

Round 13 :

Round 14 :

Info :

— Neck (Short collar section to join head & body) :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4-6 :

Info :

— Body :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

Round 6 :

Round 7 :

Round 8 :

Round 9-12 :

Info :

Round 13 :

Round 14-20 :

Info :

Round 21 :

Round 22 :

Round 23 :

Round 24 :

Round 25 :