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Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern
4.1β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.6K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🧸

Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

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About This Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates a charming ruby red baby dragon with a soft pink belly plate and a white heart-decorated bow tie collar. It features glossy black safety eyes, scalloped bat-like wings, a row of back spikes, curled tail tip and three cute horns across the skull. The dragon sits upright on sturdy squat legs with defined toes and embroidered nostrils. Small hearts on the collar add a romantic, handmade touch.

Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Pattern uses worsted weight yarn and standard amigurumi construction with separate components (head, muzzle, body, limbs, wings, tail, spikes, collar and hearts). Frequent Info notes guide placement, stuffing and shaping for a tidy finished toy.

Why You'll Love This Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines classic amigurumi structure with sweet personality β€” the big round eyes, the soft pink belly contrast and the heart bow tie make it impossible not to smile. I appreciate the clear shaping for the muzzle and the little dorsal spikes that give it playful character. The design is rewarding: it looks intricate but uses familiar stitches in thoughtful ways, so finishing is satisfying and fun to customize.

Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. The basic techniques are accessible for confident beginners yet yield a delightful finished toy that's clearly detailed in the photos.

I often switch up colors: try a pastel mint body with a cream belly for a softer look or deep teal and bronze spikes for a dramatic grown-up display piece. For a kid-friendly version, embroider the eyes instead of using safety eyes and remove any small detachable pieces.

Other fun customizations: make the dragon smaller by using sport weight yarn and 2.75mm hook, or larger by using bulky yarn and a 5mm hook. Add wire inside wings for posing or make seasonal mini accessories (tiny scarves or hats) to personalize your dragon for gift-giving.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round βœ— Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project βœ— Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching inside later; stuff sections as you complete them for best results βœ— Attaching eyes too low or too high changes expression dramatically; test placement with pins before locking safety eyes βœ— Sewing parts without pinning and comparing sides often results in asymmetry; always pin and step back to check balance before sewing βœ— Switching yarn brands mid-project without matching gauge causes mismatched sizes and texture; keep yarn consistent or test gauge first

Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

Create a cuddly ruby-red dragon with soft pink belly, curled tail, signature heart bow tie collar and expressive glossy eyes. This pattern guides you through making the head, snout, wings, spikes, limbs and tiny heart details, with clear round-by-round stitch counts for a professional finish. Perfect as a sweet gift or a decorative keepsake, the finished dragon sits upright with sturdy legs and poseable-feeling wings. Detailed assembly and finishing notes included for a neat, polished amigurumi.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Ruby Love Dragon Wearing a Heart Bow Tie Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 150g in main ruby red (body, head, limbs, wings outer)
  • 02
    120g in slightly darker red/burgundy for horn tips, claws and wing membrane edge
  • 03
    60-80g in soft pink for belly plate and inner tummy
  • 04
    20-30g in white for collar and bow tie
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-15g each) in deep burgundy for claws and tiny heart details

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter details (optional)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 12mm (big glossy eyes as shown) or 10mm for smaller version
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly and positioning
  • 09
    Optional: thin florist wire or pipe cleaners for optional poseable wings or limbs
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing knots or eye washers

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Mark the first stitch of each round. Keep tension moderately tight so stuffing does not show; this tall head keeps 10 rounds of even height to get the rounded look in the photo.

Round 13-16 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, spacing approximately 10-12 stitches apart center-to-center for a wide, innocent expression like the sample. Use pins to check placement before locking washers in place.

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Begin facial shaping note: the muzzle is made separately and sewn on for a pronounced snout. Do not decrease further here if you plan to sew a muzzle; leave rounds 17-18 to maintain head height and placement for the muzzle connection.

Round 19 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 20 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin stuffing head firmly but not overpacked. Stuff evenly around eye sockets so the eyes sit flush and round. Use small bits of stuffing to arrive at a smooth shape.

Round 21 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 22 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 23 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 24 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 25 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the body if you prefer to close the head later. Alternatively leave open to attach directly to the body with visible neck shaping. Round counts above produce a round, slightly flattened head size consistent with pictured proportions.

β€” Muzzle / Snout :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-8 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

These rounds give the snout its length and should align with the position of the safety eyes on the head. Hold muzzle to head and pin before sewing: center it so the nostrils will sit above the base of the muzzle.

Round 9 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 10 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 11 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Stuff the muzzle quite firmly to produce a nice forward projection. Do not overstuffβ€”firm but slightly springy. Fasten off leaving 20–25cm tail for sewing. Embroider two nostrils with deep burgundy yarn before attaching if easier.

β€” Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

If you plan to add a sewn belly panel (pink), make it now or crochet the panel separately and attach later. Keep the first 10 rounds even to provide a stable shoulder area for arm attachment.

Round 11 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 12-14 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Info :

Begin adding moderate stuffing after round 12 to build a solid midsection. Use small amounts and shape with your hands so the body sits flat when finished.

Round 15 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 17 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 18 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

Stop increasing and shape the lower body with decreases. Leave the top opening with a long tail for sewing head later. Keep stuffing gradually while you decrease to maintain shape without lumps.

Round 19 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 20 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 21 :

6 dec (6) β€” OR leave open for neck attachment depending on assembly method (leave to match head opening)

Info :

If attaching head by sewing, leave rounds 20-21 open and do not fasten off. Pin head in place first and sew through back loops of body rounds for a secure seam. If you close the body completely, attach head by sewing through fabric opening instead.

β€” Belly Panel (Make 1 in pink) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-8 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

This oval will be sewn to the front of the body for the pale pink tummy. For a neat edge, use BLO for the last round to create a ridge, then attach using whip stitch around the outside of the panel to the body front from round 7–12 depending on alignment.

Round 9 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 10 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 11 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 12 :

6 dec or fasten off leaving long tail for sewing (6)

β€” Arm (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 7 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 8-11 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

Arms in the photo sit close to body with slight curve. Stuff the hand/forearm fairly firmly for a weighted look; stuff the upper arm more lightly for easy sewing to the shoulder area.

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 13-15 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 16 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 17 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (6)

Round 18 :

6 sc (6) β€” Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Insert a few extra stitches through the front of the arm to create a slight crease where the hand meets the arm for a natural hug-like pose. Use a yarn needle and the tail to shape before final sewing.

β€” Leg / Foot (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-7 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 8 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 13 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 14 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 15-17 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Stuff the foot base firmly to create a flat, stable surface. The dragon sits upright so ensure the bottom of each foot is filled and slightly flattened for stability.

Round 18 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 19-21 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 22 :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the body (12)

Info :

For the small dark claws on the toes, embroider three short stitches at the front of each foot using darker burgundy yarn or make three tiny slip-stitch clusters across the final round. Place claws symmetrically on each foot for a cute look.

β€” Ear (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st BLO (24)

Round 7 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 8 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 9 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (6)

Round 10 :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing and shaping (6)

Info :

Sew ears to the top sides of the head (between rounds 8–12) with the scalloped edge pointing slightly forward. Use pins to check symmetry and angle before stitching.

β€” Horns (Make 3 for top of head plus extra spike cones) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3-5 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 6 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (9)

Round 7 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 3 (6)

Round 8 :

6 dec (3) β€” Fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew three horns down the center-top of the head with the largest in the middle and two slightly smaller ones in front and back for the clustered horn look. Place horns between rounds 7–10 for proper proportion relative to the eyes and ears. For darker tips, work the final 2 rounds in darker burgundy yarn.

β€” Back Spike (Make 6 small cones) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

4 inc (8)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (8)

Round 4 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (6)

Round 5 :

2 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (5) β€” Fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Make 5–7 of these small spikes and sew them along the center of the tail and lower back. Space evenly; use pins to place and stitch securely. Use darker yarn for each spike tip if desired.

β€” Tail :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-8 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 9 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 10-12 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 14-16 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 17 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (6)

Round 18 :

6 sc (6) β€” Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Sew back spikes (small cones) along the top of the tail from base to tip. Space spikes so that the tail resembles the photo's cottage-style bumpy spine. Pin before sewing and secure with ladder stitch for a neat finish.

β€” Wing (Make 2 identical) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st BLO (24)

Round 7 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 8 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 9 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (6)

Round 10 :

6 sc (6)

Round 11 :

Fold wing in half and work 6 sc across the edge to create a membrane ridge; fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

For the bat-like wing shape, create a second smaller inner membrane in darker burgundy by working an edging row of sc around the inside edge before sewing wings to the body. Sew wings to the back on rounds 8–12 of the body for the pictured low-back placement.

β€” Collar Band :

Round 1 :

Ch 36 (or measure around your dragon's neck and chain to fit snugly), join with sl st to form loop

Round 2-4 :

1 sc in each ch around (36)

Info :

Work collar in white. If necessary, adjust stitch count to fit your dragon's neck snugly. This collar will be the base for the bow tie and hearts.

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st BLO (36) β€” Fasten off leaving a tail to secure collar around neck

β€” Bow Tie Front (Make 1) :

Round 1 :

Ch 10, 1 sc in second ch from hook and across (9), ch 1, turn

Round 2-6 :

1 sc in each st across (9)

Round 7 :

Fold rectangle and stitch ends together slightly to create bow shape, wrap center with a small piece of white yarn or make a tiny band. Fasten off and attach to collar center.

Info :

Optionally attach a small pink heart or larger central heart on top of the bow for the look shown. Pin before sewing to ensure centered placement.

β€” Tiny Heart (Make 4 small hearts) :

Round 1 :

Ch 4, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next, sl st in last ch to form small loop (approx heart top)

Round 2 :

Attach to central bow or collar with a few stitches; make two tiny hearts for collar tips and one for bow center (adjust size by working extra rounds or using smaller hook)

Info :

If you prefer, crochet small hearts in deep burgundy to contrast against white collar as in the photograph. Stitch securely and weave in ends tightly.

β€” Eyes & Facial Embroidery :

Info :

Use 12mm safety eyes placed between rounds 13-14 of head. Embroider upper eyebrow lines with 2-3 stitches of burgundy yarn above each eye to create sweet expression. For nostrils, use deep burgundy and embroider two small vertical stitches at top of muzzle. For mouth, use short horizontal satin-stitched line in burgundy at the muzzle seam.

β€” Assembly & Final Shaping :

Info :

Before sewing any pieces permanently, arrange on your body and pin into position. This ensures symmetry and allows adjustments for a natural sitting posture. Use the long tails left from each part for sewing with mattress or whip stitch. Reinforce joints with a few extra passes for durability.

Step :

Sew muzzle to head centered below eyes; position so nostrils align with eye base. Sew through both pieces neatly and close any gaps with small whip stitches.

Step :

Sew head to body by inserting neck into body's opening; use even whip stitches around the neck. Add a few extra stitches at the front to draw head slightly forward for the cuddly look in the photo.

Step :

Sew arms to sides of the body around rounds 10-12 so that hands rest on the belly. Sew legs at body base evenly spaced so the dragon sits upright. Add a few internal anchoring stitches between inner foot base and body bottom for stability.

Step :

Attach wings to back between body rounds 8-12. Pin wings symmetrically, then attach with invisible ladder stitch or small whip stitches at the base. Add a few stitches up into the back to create a slightly raised base like photo.

Step :

Sew spikes and horns in place. Use photos as guide: three horns across the head and 5–6 small spikes down the tail and lower back. Secure each spike with tight stitches through the spike base into body or tail.

Step :

Sew collar around the neck, secure with small hidden stitches. Place the bow at the front and stitch the little hearts on either side of the collar, then add the central heart on the bow for the final decorative touch.

Info :

Weave in all tails securely. Trim close, but leave enough to tuck into stitches for extra hold. Add slight blush to cheeks with makeup or fabric paint if desired. Use fabric glue sparingly under bow tie center for extra hold if you plan to gift to a small child.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion into the body opening. Pin in place first, then sew securely using whip stitch all around, ensuring even attachment
  • Position arms on sides of body at rounds 10-12 for natural look. Sew through both arm and body using ladder stitch for invisible seam
  • Attach legs to bottom of body at rounds 1-3, spacing them evenly. Sew securely, adding extra stitches for stability if character will be posed
  • Sew ears to top of head at rounds 8-12, spacing them 10-12 stitches apart. Curve slightly forward for natural appearance and secure with extra stitches at base
  • Attach wings to back at body rounds 8-12, pinning to ensure symmetry. Sew base of wing with ladder stitch then add a few reinforcing stitches up into the back
  • Add horns and spikes: sew three horns evenly along the crown at head rounds 7-10. Sew 5–7 small spikes down tail and back center, spacing them for the pictured textured spine
  • Sew muzzle to head centered below the eyes; embroider nostrils and mouth before final closure if easier
  • Thread collar around neck, secure with small hidden stitches. Attach bow tie at the front and stitch the small hearts onto collar and bow, finishing with woven-in tails

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • πŸ’‘Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
  • πŸ’‘For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • πŸ’‘Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • πŸ’‘When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • πŸ’‘Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • πŸ’‘For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches; use a smaller hook if necessary
  • πŸ’‘Keep a row counter or notepad to track rounds, especially in long even-stitch sections

This ruby love dragon is such a joy to stitch β€” every little spike, the soft pink tummy and the heart bow make it utterly lovable. The step-by-step rounds help you build each part with confidence, and the final assembly is a rewarding reveal as the character comes together. Whether you make one to gift or keep it on your desk for smiles, it's a handmade treat that shows care in every stitch. πŸ§ΆπŸ’–

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Using worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished dragon will measure approximately 28-32 cm (11-12.5 inches) tall when seated. Using different yarn weights or hooks will change size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Different yarn weights will change the final size proportionally.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully! Safety eyes give a professional look and are very secure, perfect for gifts. Embroidered eyes are ideal for young children as they have no small parts, and allow for more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 150-250 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient depending on how firmly you stuff. Stuff firmly but not overly tight to keep the rounded shapes while remaining cuddly.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

Absolutely! Insert pipe cleaners or floral wire before stuffing limbs completely. Bend wire to desired shape, ensuring ends are folded over safely, then continue stuffing around the wire for poseable limbs.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often creates visible distortions. Using a stitch marker at round starts helps prevent counting mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension throughout, using a hook slightly smaller than yarn recommendation. When stuffing, distribute fiberfill evenly in small amounts rather than large chunks.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love. You can also add accessories, change facial expressions, or adjust proportions slightly to make your creation unique while following the basic structure.