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Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern

Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern
4.2β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.8K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Autumn Vibes

Earthy and spooky seasonal accent that's perfect for Halloween mantels and autumn dΓ©cor; bold black and red stripes paired with white 'bloody' eyeballs create a dramatic focal point.

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About This Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern

This pattern teaches you to make a long padded spiral garland in alternating black and red stripes and a set of detachable 'bloody' eyeballs crocheted in white with black pupils and red embroidered veins. The garland is worked as a padded tube over a rope or cord core for structure and drape. Eyeballs are made as tight amigurumi spheres with small flat discs for pupil and iris, then embroidered with red floss/yarn for a dripping effect.

Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern includes instructions for a hanging loop, optional poseable core (wire or pipe insulation), and detailed embroidery tips for realistic blood veins. Multiple Info sections guide you through stuffing, color changes, and assembly to create a professional finish.

Why You'll Love This Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern

I love how theatrical this garland is β€” the high-contrast red and black spiral looks striking and the eyeballs add a wonderfully creepy, handmade detail. I enjoy the combination of simple repetitive stitches for the tube with the small amigurumi challenge of the eyeballs and the embroidery that gives them character. It's a gratifying project that packs a lot of visual drama for relatively little effort.

Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern step 1 - construction progress Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved creating this garland pattern because it blends simple repetitive work for the tube with the focused, satisfying detail work of making and embroidering eyeballs. The long tube becomes almost meditative as you alternate red and black stripes, while the small eyeballs provide bursts of attention-grabbing detail.

I like to customize the stripe width and the number of eyeballs: try 3-round stripes for thinner stripes or 8-round stripes for bolder bands. You can also change the color palette β€” orange and black for a classic Halloween look or purple and black for a whimsical goth vibe. For a more subtle piece, use dark grey instead of black and burgundy for the red.

Another favorite tweak is to make some eyeballs glow: place micro-LED lights inside a hollowed, lightly closed eyeball and leave a small opening to hide the light wiring inside the core. These small changes make the basic structure of this pattern flexible and fun to personalize.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned stripes and uneven tube shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round. βœ— Not anchoring or inserting the rope core before continuing rounds can make the tube collapse; insert the rope and secure before working long even rounds. βœ— Changing color without securing ends can create loose floats inside the tube; weave in color tails as you go or carry the yarn inside the tube. βœ— Overstuffing eyeballs makes them lumpy and hard to close; stuff firmly but in small increments to maintain a smooth sphere. βœ— Crocheting too loosely will allow stuffing or the rope core to show through; use a smaller hook for amigurumi pieces for tight fabric. βœ— Waiting until the very end to place eyeballs can lead to uneven spacing; pin eyeballs along the tube before sewing to check placement. βœ— Using unsafe small parts for gifts to young children; consider embroidered eyes rather than small plastic pieces for safety. βœ— Not testing a small gauge sample around your chosen rope can result in a loose fit; test a short sample to check stitch count for a snug cover.

Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern

Create a spooky, flexible spiral garland wrapped in alternating red and black stripes and punctuated by creepy crocheted bloody eyeballs. This pattern shows how to crochet a padded, tubular garland around a rope core, make multiple amigurumi-style eyeballs with embroidered blood veins, and assemble them into a dramatic Halloween decoration. Finished garland coils and drapes beautifully for doorways, mantels, or party displays.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Black and Red Spiral Halloween Garland with Bloody Eyeballs Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) cotton or acrylic, approximately 200g in Black (main stripe color)
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) approximately 200g in Ruby/Cherry Red (stripe color)
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) approximately 100g in White (eyeballs main color)
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-20g) in Black for pupil discs and accent embroidery
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-20g) in Red (same red as stripe) for blood veins and iris details
  • 06
    Optional: contrasting red embroidery floss for finer blood veins

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for tube and eyeballs (use slightly smaller for tighter fabric if desired, e.g., 3.25mm)
  • 02
    2.75-3.25mm crochet hook for tighter eyeball work (optional)
  • 03
    Sturdy braided rope or rope core approximately 6-10mm diameter, length depending on desired garland (suggest 1.5-2 meters)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (approximately 150-250g total depending on number of eyeballs)
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 6-8) to mark rounds and eyeball placement
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for positioning eyeballs before sewing
  • 09
    Optional: thin floral wire or flexible craft wire if you want a poseable garland core
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing knots or small details
  • 11
    Optional safety eyes 10mm if you prefer plastic eyes (or embroider pupils for safety)

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β€” Overview & Notes :

Info :

Pattern creates one padded spiral garland approximately 1.5-2 meters long (adjust core length to desired finished size) with 8 detachable crocheted eyeballs. Make adjustments to stripe width by changing the number of rounds per stripe. Work tightly so stuffing and rope core do not show through. Suggested finished eyeball diameter is approximately 2.0-2.5 inches (5-6.5cm) using worsted yarn and a 3.25-3.5mm hook.

Info :

Gauge is not critical for decorative garland, but for a snug tube around 8mm rope we target 30 sc around the core circumference. If your core is larger or smaller, adjust the increase rounds to reach a snug circumference (see Body Round 1-5 math).

β€” Materials Prep :

Info :

Cut core: choose braided rope, pipe insulation, or wrapped wire core. If using pipe insulation or floral wire, bend into a loose spiral shape to test drape. Important: test a 10cm sample of your stitch count around your chosen core to know how many stitches you need to cover the circumference snugly.

Info :

Prepare yarn tails: when switching colors for stripes plan to leave 6-10cm tails for weaving inside the tube, or carry the yarn up through the tube to the next color change. For clean stripes, fasten off and weave in ends on the inside.

β€” Eyeball (make 8) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

At this point the sphere diameter is at its maximum. If you prefer slightly larger eyeballs, continue increasing one more round: (7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 54. For this pattern we keep 48 to keep a compact, round eyeball that fits the garland size.

Round 9-20 :

1 sc in each st (48) β€” work 12 rounds even to build height (48)

Info :

Place pupil/iris discs after round 12 if you are using safety eyes or sewing on discs. To sew the pupil later, mark the center front with a removable stitch marker between rounds 11-13 so you have consistent placement for all eyeballs.

Round 21 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 22 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Begin stuffing: work in small amounts, pushing the fiberfill evenly into the sphere. Use a stuffing tool or blunt pencil to reach the center. Eyeballs should be firm but not rock-hard to maintain a smooth surface after sewing.

Round 23 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 24 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 25 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 26 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 27 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a 20-25cm tail. Thread tail through remaining 6 sts, pull tight to close, and weave tail inside sphere for a neat finish. Repeat to make 8 eyeballs total. Ensure each eye is stuffed to approximately the same firmess for consistency.

β€” Pupil & Iris Discs (make 8 sets) :

Disc - Pupil Round 1 :

Magic ring, 6 sc in ring (6)

Disc - Pupil Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Disc - Pupil Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Info :

Make pupil disc in black yarn. Fasten off leaving a 15-20cm tail for sewing. For a slightly recessed pupil stitch the pupil into the center, flattening slightly before attaching iris.

Disc - Iris Round 1 :

Start with black pupil sewn to the center of a short white disc, then add red iris β€” in red yarn: mr, 6 sc in ring (6)

Disc - Iris Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Disc - Iris Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) β€” fasten off, leave long tail for sewing onto eyeball

Info :

Sew pupil and iris on before final closing of the eyeball if easier: mark the front center (round 12), place iris/pupil discs on the marked spot and baste in place. Then finish closing the eyeball to secure discs neatly in position.

β€” Eyeball Embroidery (Blood Veins) :

Info :

Use embroidery floss or stranded yard in red (same red as stripes) to stitch blood veins. For a thicker, yarn-like vein use a single strand of worsted weight red yarn. Bring tail of floss/yarn out from a point around round 10-14 (midside) and work irregular straight stitches toward the pupil area. Make several branching stitches; vary length and thickness for realism. Knot securely inside the eyeball and weave ends in.

Info :

Tips: keep stitches slightly raised by using surface chain stitch or long straight stitches on top of the crocheted surface. Use small backstitches around the pupil edge to create a ragged wet look. If you want a glossy blood effect use a tiny amount of clear-drying craft glue over stitched veins and let dry thoroughly.

β€” Tube Garland Body (work over core) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

You should now have a comfortable circumference to cover an 8mm rope core. If your core is larger, add one more increase round: (4 sc, inc) x 6 = 36. For smaller cores reduce to 24-28 circumference. Keep this starting circumference consistent so stripes and eyeball placement match.

Info :

Insert core now: slide the rope or pipe insulation through the opening. If using pipe insulation, cut it slightly shorter than your final tube so ends won't poke out. If you want a poseable core, feed thin floral wire through the pipe insulation and fold ends inside the insulation to avoid sharp points.

Round 6-11 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” work first red stripe; 6 rounds makes a bold stripe (30)

Info :

Color Change :

Change to Black yarn. Fasten off red or carry it inside the tube and work over the tail to hide it. If carrying, twist the two yarns every round inside the tube to prevent long floats from showing.

Round 12-17 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” work first black stripe; 6 rounds (30)

Info :

Change back to Red yarn. You can vary stripe width if you prefer thinner or thicker stripes; for thinner stripes use 3 rounds per color instead of 6.

Round 18-23 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” red stripe (30)

Round 24-29 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” black stripe (30)

Info :

Continue alternating Red and Black in blocks of 6 rounds until you reach desired length. Keep count of stripe repetitions. For a dramatic garland like the sample, work 12 full stripes (each stripe is 6 rounds), which equals 12 x 6 = 72 rounds plus the first 5 shaping rounds = 77 rounds total for the tube body.

Round 30-35 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” red (30)

Round 36-41 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” black (30)

Round 42-47 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” red (30)

Round 48-53 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” black (30)

Round 54-59 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” red (30)

Round 60-65 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” black (30)

Round 66-71 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” red (30)

Round 72-77 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” black (30) β€” finish final stripe

Info :

Before finishing the final rounds, test the garland length and coil it loosely to ensure stripes line up visually when spiral is formed. Adjust rounds if you want an extra stripe of either color at the ends.

Round 78-80 :

1 sc in each st (30) β€” finishing section; work 2-3 rounds in black to finish end neatly (30)

Info :

Create a hanging loop at one end: with black yarn, ch 15 (or desired loop length), sl st to the base stitch to form a loop. Fasten off and weave tail inside the tube. If you prefer a hidden loop, insert a metal ring inside the tube and sew securely to the inner core at the end rounds.

Info :

Optional texture: to create a more 'ridged' spiral effect, work the last round of each stripe in BLO (back loops only). This produces a shallow ridge that reads as a spiral when wrapped.

β€” Finishing the Tube Ends :

Round 81 :

Work 1 sc in each st around last round then decrease 3-4 rounds if you want a tapered end: (3 sc, dec) x 6 => 24 then (2 sc, dec) x 6 => 18

Round 82 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 83 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 84 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail. Thread tail through last stitches, pull tight to close, and weave the tail into the tube core. Trim any exposed rope if necessary. Repeat a small tapered finish at the other end if you prefer symmetrical ends.

β€” Small Spiral Coil (decorative center coil) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-12 :

1 sc in each st (18) β€” continue for 9 rounds to create a short padded tube that you can coil and slip inside the outer garland if you like a double-spiral look (18)

Info :

Stuff lightly and sew coil closed at the ends, then place it at the center of the garland for display. This is optional; the sample photo shows a coiled inner spiral for a layered effect.

β€” Attachment Points for Eyeballs :

Info :

Plan eyeball placement along the tube before final assembly. In the sample, eyeballs are spaced roughly every 8-12 cm along the garland with groups of 1-3 eyeballs clustered at ends and some placed along the body. Using pins or safety pins insert them into the tube to mark positions (approx between stripe changes gives a nice rhythm).

Info :

For a more organic look, vary spacing and location (side, bottom, or top of the tube). Mark each position with a stitch marker on the tube so you can find exact sewing locations later.

β€” Sewing Eyeballs to Tube :

Info :

Sew eyeballs securely through both the tube cover and into the inner rope core if possible. Use the long tail left from closing each eyeball to whipstitch through the tube fabric and loop around the rope core to anchor. For a removable eye option, attach with a small button or snap inserted under the tube fabric and into the eye base.

Info :

To sew permanently: position the eyeball at the marked spot, weave the long tail through the bottom stitches of the eyeball and through the tube as though stitching a button. Make 8-12 passes through the rope core and tube to secure. Knot and weave ends into the tube interior.

β€” Optional: Internal Wiring for Poseable Garland :

Info :

If you want the garland to hold shapes, insert thin floral/aluminum wire along the rope core before closing ends. Make sure wire ends are folded back and wrapped with tape to avoid poking through yarn. Work wire in segments so the garland remains flexible at desired joints.

Info :

When using wire, stitch eyeballs extra securely as wire movement can add torque to attachment points. Consider adding an extra internal knot of yarn around the wire at each eyeball position before sewing the eyeball to help anchor it.

β€” Extra Decorative Options :

Info :

Add fringe, tassels, or small crocheted 'drips' (2-3 rounds of sc into chain tails) near some eyeballs for more gore. You can also add tiny safety lights inside hollow eyeballs (make a small opening and insert a micro LED) for illuminated effects β€” secure battery pack in the core near the hanging loop.

Info :

Use BLO on the transition rounds to emphasize stripes, or add a slip-stitch ridge in a third color for subtle detail. Embellish with small beads or sequins for a wet look around the pupil if desired.

β€” Care & Storage :

Info :

Spot clean with a damp cloth. Store loosely coiled in a box or hung to preserve shape. If you used pipe insulation, avoid high heat sources when storing to prevent warping.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach each eyeball to the tube using the long tail from the eyeball closure. Position eyeballs at marked spots and whipstitch through the tube and around the rope core at least 8-12 times for security.
  • Create a hanging loop at one end before finishing the final rounds; insert a metal O-ring into the loop for stronger hanging hardware if required.
  • If you added a coiled inner spiral, center it within the outer garland and tack it in three places with small stitches so it doesn't shift when you coil the garland for display.
  • Position clusters of eyeballs (1-3) at the ends and single eyeballs spaced along the length. Pin them in place first, step back to check balance, then sew permanently.
  • Weave in and hide all yarn tails inside the tube for a clean finish. Use a yarn needle to thread thread ends along the rope core and trim close once secure.
  • If you inserted wire for poseability, bend gently to shape after all eyeballs are attached; make any small adjustments to eyebrow direction or spacing as needed.
  • Double-check every eyeball for secure stitching by gently tugging; add extra passes of yarn if any feel loose. Knot securely and weave tails into the interior.
  • Optional: use small drops of fabric glue on knot ends inside the tube for extra security if the garland will be handled frequently or used in a busy space.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff eyeballs gradually in small amounts to maintain a smooth rounded surface and avoid lumps.
  • πŸ’‘For color changes, fasten off and weave ends inside the tube or carry yarn but twist it every few stitches to prevent long floats showing through.
  • πŸ’‘Test stitch count around your core before committing; a snug fit prevents the rope core from poking through or visible gaps forming.
  • πŸ’‘When sewing eyeballs, pass your needle through the rope core and then back through the tube to anchor firmly; check both sides of tube for even tension.
  • πŸ’‘If making this for a child or public display, avoid small detachable parts and opt for embroidered pupils rather than safety eyes.
  • πŸ’‘If you add wire inside the core, ensure all wire ends are safely wrapped and inaccessible to avoid poking through the yarn fabric.
  • πŸ’‘Pin everything in place and photograph your layout before final sewing to use as a reference for symmetrical spacing.

This bold black and red spiral garland with bloody eyeballs is a dramatic, handmade accent that brings just the right spooky energy to your Halloween decor. Each crocheted eyeball and stripe is designed to pair structure with playful creepiness for a piece you'll love displaying every fall. Enjoy making itβ€”it's a fun, theatrical project that packs so much personality into each stitch! πŸ§ΆπŸ‘οΈβ€πŸ©Έ

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this garland?

Using the specified materials this garland will be approximately 1.5-2 meters (5-6.5 feet) long depending on the length of rope core you choose. You can easily alter the length by changing the core length and adding or removing stripe blocks.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. If you use thicker yarn (bulky), increase your hook size and expect a larger, chunkier garland and eyeballs. For tighter amigurumi results use a hook 1-1.5 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation.

Do I need to use a rope core or can I knit the tube hollow?

You can make a hollow tube and stuff it firmly, but the rope core gives stronger structure and easier hanging. Pipe insulation or braided rope are excellent choices for a lightweight, sturdy core.

How many eyeballs will I need?

This pattern makes 8 eyeballs by default. You can add more or fewer depending on spacing preference. Plan eyeball positions before finalizing stripe count.

Can I embroider the pupils instead of sewing discs?

Absolutely. Embroidering pupils and irises gives a flat finish safe for children. Use black and red floss to create concentric rings and add veins with red floss for a dramatic look.

How much stuffing will I need?

For 8 eyeballs and minimal tube stuffing you will need approximately 150-250 grams of polyester fiberfill. Eyeballs are stuffed relatively firmly; the tube uses only a small amount since the rope core provides structure.

Can I make the garland poseable?

Yes, insert floral wire or thin aluminum wire inside the rope or inside pipe insulation to make the garland hold shapes. Make sure wire ends are wrapped and secured to avoid sharp points.

My stitch count is off; what should I do?

If stitch counts don't match during early rounds it's best to unravel to the last correct round. Using a stitch marker at each round start avoids offset stripes and keeps your tube circumference consistent.