— Short Side Inserts (Make 2) :
Info :
These small panels fit between medallion and side panels to form a clean rectangle when all pieces are joined. Their width equals the runner length (approx 36") and height equals leftover space (approx 3" each). Work these as narrow strips in colorwork to echo corner motifs.
Insert Row 1 (Foundation) :
With Cream, foundation chain 123 (this approximates 36" length with gauge). Ch 2, hdc into 3rd ch from hook and each across (121 hdc). (121)
Row 2 :
Ch 2, turn, change to Sage, hdc in each st across (121)
Row 3 :
Ch 2, turn, change to Deep Navy, hdc in each st across (121)
Row 4 :
Ch 2, turn, with Cream: *dc3 in next st, sk 2, dc in next 3, sk 2* across to create small stepped corner echoes at the outer edges (121)
Row 5-10 :
Repeat rows alternating colors for a total insert height of approx 3" (6 rows). Keep stitch count even at 121 per row. Fasten off and block inserts flat.
Info :
These inserts are narrow and long; work neatly and keep edges straight for easier joining. Use stitch markers at quarter points to help align when seaming panels together.
— Assembly: Joining Panels to Form Runner Base :
Info :
Arrange pieces on blocking mat in this order: long side panel (top), medallion centered next, long side panel (bottom). Seam the long edges of medallion to the inner edges of the long panels using whipstitch or mattress stitch with matching yarn. Then attach the two long inserts to the short sides to complete a rectangle approximately 14" x 36".
Seam Step 1 :
With cream yarn and yarn needle, align the medallion edge to the top panel inner edge. Starting at far left, whipstitch through both layers every 5-6 mm to create an invisible seam; continue until panel fully attached. Repeat for bottom panel. (Seam full length)
Seam Step 2 :
Attach short inserts to the left and right ends of the assembled long pieces to create a continuous rectangle. Use mattress stitch for a flatter join. Weave all tails securely. Block the joined runner flat and square then move to border work.
Info :
Pin the assembled rectangle on a flat surface to check edges are even. If seams pucker, adjust tension and resew a few stitches tighter. A neat seam makes the border look professional.
— Decorative Inner Frame & Color Blocking (worked in joined rounds around entire rectangle) :
Round 1 :
With Deep Navy, join yarn at one corner of the rectangle. Ch 1, evenly work 1 sc along the edge of the fabric every 5 mm; on corners work: *(sc, ch 2, sc) into corner space* to turn smoothly. Continue around perimeter. (Working count varies - aim for even spacing and neat corners)
Info :
This round creates a clean foundation for the framed stripes. Keep tension even and count your stitches across one long edge to replicate on the opposite side for symmetry.
Round 2 :
Change to Ochre. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, placing 3 hdc in each corner ch-2 space to keep corners turning, join. (Working count same as previous round)
Round 3 :
Change to Deep Navy. Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join. (Working count)
Round 4 :
Change to Cream. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next st and each st around for a bold frame line. At each corner work (dc, ch 2, dc) into the corner to turn sharply, join. (Working count)
Info :
You have now established three framed bands that echo the medallion outlines. This is a good time to check overall shape: if a side looks short, add an extra dc or two on that side in the next round (evenly spaced) to square the runner.
— Outer Mesh Border (Cream) :
Info :
The airy mesh is worked in rows of dc and chain spaces around the entire perimeter, creating a lattice look that visually expands the runner. This border uses repeated cycles of dc clusters and chain ladders; it requires working in rows (joined rounds) around the rectangle's edge.
Round 1 (Mesh Start) :
With Cream, join in any corner ch-2. Ch 3 (counts as dc), *ch 2, sk 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts*; rep across to corner, at corner work (dc, ch 2, dc) into corner, continue along next edge repeating motif. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (Working count variable)
Round 2 :
Ch 3, dc in same st, ch 3, sk ch-2 sp, dc3 in next dc cluster, rep across; at corners (dc, ch 3, dc) to turn, join. This increases lacy openness. Keep counts consistent side to side.
Info :
Measure the runner width and length while working mesh rounds to ensure a balanced look. If the mesh begins to pull, reduce ch-3 ladders to ch-2 to tighten; conversely increase to ch-4 for extra openness.
Round 3 :
Ch 1, sc across each dc and ch-space to anchor the mesh (this stabilizes the lacy rounds). At corners make (sc, ch 2, sc). Join. This round evens the border and prepares for the next mesh repeat.
Round 4-10 :
Repeat Rounds 1-3 sequence for a total of three mesh repeats (approximately 6-8 rows depending on desired width). Aim for the mesh border to be about 2.5-3 inches wide. Fasten off if desired or continue to scallop edge next.
Info :
If you want a wider border, repeat the mesh pattern more times. Keep the work flat by blocking each repeat if necessary before continuing.
— Final Scalloped Edge :
Round 1 (Scallop Base) :
With Cream, join in any mesh ch space. Ch 1, sc in each st around keeping 3 sc in each corner ch-2 space, join. (Working count)
Round 2 (Scallops) :
*Sk 2 sc, in next sc work (5 dc), sk 2 sc, sl st in next sc*; rep around to form scallops. At corners center a scallop over the corner for continuity. Join. (Number of scallops will vary by perimeter length; space them evenly)
Info :
Work the scallops loosely so they lay flat. If scallops flip, reduce dc count to 4 in each scallop or use larger hook for this round only to create a looser stitch.
Round 3 (Finish) :
Ch 1, sc in each st around to anchor scallops. Fasten off and weave in all tails thoroughly. Block final runner to dimensions and steam lightly to set shape if yarn allows.
— Finishing Touches & Blocking :
Info :
Lay runner flat and pin scallops evenly. Spray with water and allow to dry fully for neat edges. Use pins to nudge scallops into a consistent rhythm. Trim stray fibers and secure any loose joins with small ladder stitches.
Info :
Optional: Add a small non-slip pad to underside if placing on a smooth tabletop. If you intend to launder, check yarn care instructions and hand-wash and dry flat to preserve shape.
Assembly Instructions
- Block all pieces flat before assembly: medallion, two long side panels, and two short inserts to the same measurements for clean seams.
- Attach the long panels to the medallion along its top and bottom edges using mattress stitch for a flat join; align stitch-for-stitch and use matching yarn for an invisible seam.
- Sew the short side inserts to the two exposed edges of the joined pieces to create a continuous rectangle; check alignment by folding runner in half and adjusting before fastening off.
- Once rectangle is assembled, work the inner frame in joined rounds directly onto the assembled edges so the frame hides seams and levels out edges.
- Work the mesh border in joined rounds around the entire runner, measuring as you go to maintain even width; pin each round if necessary before continuing.
- Finish with scalloped edge: space scallops evenly around perimeter; if scallops bunch at corners, adjust by adding or removing a dc in the immediate neighbor space.
- Weave in all ends securely by threading yarn needle and weaving through 8-12 stitches, then trimming close to fabric to avoid unraveling.
- Final blocking: pin runner to exact dimensions, steam or wet block according to yarn instructions, and allow to dry fully before use.
Important Notes
- 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper edge shaping.
- 💡Block each major component (medallion and panels) before seaming to ensure straight edges and an even join.
- 💡Carry colors behind the work across short distances to reduce ends; cut and weave any carried runs that create tension issues.
- 💡Stuffing is not used in this flat project; focus on even tension and blocking to control texture and drape.
- 💡When joining panels, pin sections carefully and sew slowly to avoid stretching or misalignment of patterned rows.
- 💡If mesh looks too open, tighten ladder spaces by reducing ch-3 to ch-2; conversely, increase ch for airier mesh.
- 💡Keep a written row counter for the panel rows to ensure identical panel lengths between the top and bottom pieces.
- 💡For a reversible finish, work seams using mattress stitch and weave ends tidily to minimize visible joins on the back.
You did it — your boho star table runner is complete and ready to shine on your favorite surface! The layered star, geometric corners, and airy scalloped mesh make this a piece that's both cozy and artful. Whether you keep it for seasonal styling or give it as a heartfelt handmade gift, each stitch reflects your effort and creativity. 🧶✨ Lay it out, take a photo, and enjoy the warm handmade vibes it brings to your home. 🎉
