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Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern

Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern
4.7★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Holiday Cheer 🎄

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

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About This Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates the cream poinsettia burgundy lace table runner pictured: a long, narrow runner with four raised, layered poinsettias running down the center, deep green textured leaves beneath each bloom, and a delicate cream scalloped lace border with tiny gold bead ‘berries’. The center field is worked in a rich burgundy open lace stitch that gives a vintage, hand-crafted look. Each poinsettia is worked in the round to create dimensional petals layered in two tiers and secured over the burgundy base. The finished runner sits beautifully on a dining table as a holiday centerpiece.

Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Special features include 3D layered petals, leaf clusters made with textured stitches, optional beads for berry clusters, and a scalloped border worked in cream to frame the runner. The pattern includes step-by-step instructions for motifs, joining, and edging.

Why You'll Love This Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because the contrast between the deep burgundy background and the cream poinsettias is instantly festive and elegant. The raised petals add such a beautiful dimensional effect—each flower truly becomes the focal point. I also appreciate the balance of lacy openwork with solid textured leaves; it creates visual interest but keeps the runner lightweight and drapable. Making the gold berry accents feels like adding tiny jewelry, and the scalloped cream edge finishes it like a handmade heirloom.

Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how this runner lets you customize colors and scale—switching the burgundy to deep evergreen or navy gives a whole new seasonal mood. I like to experiment with the petal size by switching hooks; a smaller hook creates crisp petals, while a larger hook gives a softer bloom.

I often make the border slightly wider by adding an extra shell round for a more dramatic scalloped edge. If you prefer a simpler look, skip the beads and make the gold centers with a few embroidered French knots. I also enjoy adding tiny poinsettia accents to matching napkins for a cohesive tablescape.

For gifting, personalize the runner by changing the accent color to match the recipient’s home; swapping the cream for ivory or pale blush adds a vintage touch. I'm always amazed at how a few small changes make each finished runner unique and special.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when working long even rounds across the runner can cause misaligned joins and uneven edges; place markers at each repeat boundary. ✗ Crocheting too loosely on the poinsettia petals causes them to flop instead of holding a petal shape; use a slightly smaller hook for petals if needed. ✗ Joining motifs without checking orientation can rotate a flower; always place each poinsettia so the petals face up and leaves point outward before sewing. ✗ Not blocking the center panel before attaching flowers leads to uneven edges; block the burgundy panel flat to exact measurements first. ✗ Adding beads before sewing flowers down may make assembly awkward; sew flowers in place, then add beads for best alignment. ✗ Overstuffing leaves or petals while aiming for a 3D look makes the runner bulge; shape petals by using stiffer stitches rather than stuffing.

Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern

A festive, layered table runner featuring cream 3D poinsettias set against a deep burgundy lacy field with leafy green accents and a delicate cream scalloped border. This pattern recreates the heirloom look of layered petals, textured leaves, and tiny gold bead berries for a warm holiday centerpiece. The finished runner is decorative, richly textured, and uses standard worsted weight yarn to create crisp, defined stitches.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Cream Poinsettia Burgundy Lace Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 220-260g in burgundy (main field color)
  • 02
    120-140g in cream/off-white (poinsettias and scalloped border)
  • 03
    90-110g in forest green (leaves and foliage)
  • 04
    Small amounts (20-30g) in metallic gold or mustard (berry clusters and flower centers)
  • 05
    Optional: extra small amounts (10g) for accent shades if desired

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (recommended for crisp texture)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for petals and delicate work (optional) to tighten petals
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing motifs and weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 6-8)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking pins and blocking mat
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Small gold seed beads (approx. 32) and a beading needle (optional)
  • 09
    Sewing pins for positioning motifs before attaching
  • 10
    Optional: small embroidery needle and fine cotton thread for bead sewing

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— Notes & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for overall look but important for size. Using worsted weight and a 3.5mm hook the runner measures approximately 12" wide and 44" long in the sample with four poinsettia motifs. If you change yarn or hook size, adjust motif spacing and the number of center field repeats accordingly.

Info :

Work tightly for the poinsettia petals so they hold shape; you may switch to a 3.0mm hook for the petal rounds if you prefer crisper petals. Use stitch markers to mark motif centers and join points. Block all pieces lightly to shape before attaching.

— Center Lace Panel (Make 1 rectangular panel) :

Round 1 :

Chain 132 loosely (foundation chain). Turn, skip first ch from hook, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch, *ch3, skip 3 ch, 1 sc in next 3 ch; rep from * across to last 4 ch, 1 sc in remaining 4 ch. (Approx foundation grid for first row)

Round 2 :

Ch3 (counts as first dc), turn. 2 dc in first sc, ch2, sk next 3-ch sp, [3 dc in next sc, ch3] across following grid, ending with 3 dc in last sc. This establishes shell clusters across the row; count will vary but aim for evenly spaced shells.

Round 3 :

Ch1, turn. 1 sc in first dc, ch3, sk next 2 dc, 1 sc in center dc of next 3-dc shell, *ch3, 1 sc in center dc of next shell; rep across; finish with sc in last dc. This creates an open lace chain grid. (Maintain same number of shell points across each row)

Info :

Keep track of shell points with a stitch marker at the first shell of the row; this helps align poinsettia placement later. The central panel is a repeating shell grid so stitch counts per row should stay consistent after initial setup.

Round 4 :

Ch3, turn. Work 3 dc in each sc that marks a shell base, ch3 between shell clusters, 3 dc in sc, repeat across. At row ends, work 3 dc into the edge sc to maintain a straight edge. (Even row; shell clusters remain consistent)

Round 5 :

Ch1, turn. Sc in first dc, [ch3, sk 2 dc, sc in middle dc of next shell] repeat across. Maintain grid spacing. Repeat this lace repeat for a total of 16 rows (Round 2-17) to create a rectangular length that will later accommodate four poinsettia motifs spaced evenly along the center line.

Rounds 6-17 :

Repeat Rounds 2-5 pattern sequence (shell row followed by sc grid row) building the rectangular burgundy field. Keep a running count of shell centers; you will place the poinsettia motifs centered over specific shell centers at row positions Rounds 6, 10, 14, 18 of the panel (visual alignment positions once blocked).

Info :

After completing 16 repeating rounds of the shell-grid sequence (panel body), measure and block the panel flat to your desired width. Blocking evens the shells and defines the grid spaces so the poinsettia motifs lay flat when attached.

Round 18 :

Ch1, turn. Work 1 sc in each st across to create a solid band along the panel edges (this band helps hide join seams later). Keep stitch count consistent with previous even rows.

Round 19 :

Repeat Round 18. At the end of Round 19 fasten off burgundy and weave ends. This completes the central lace panel. Block panel to final dimensions (approx 12" x 44").

Info :

Mark four evenly spaced shell centers down the panel center line where the poinsettias will be positioned. Use pins and a measuring tape to ensure even spacing. These positions will align with the flower motif centers made next.

— Poinsettia Motif (Make 4 identical motifs) :

Round 1 :

With cream yarn and 3.0-3.5mm hook, MR, ch2 (does NOT count as st), work 12 hdc into magic ring; tighten ring and join with sl st to first hdc. (12)

Round 2 :

Ch2, work (hdc, inc) x6 around alternating to create 18 sts. Pattern: (1 hdc, 1 inc) x6 (18)

Round 3 :

Ch2, (2 hdc, inc) x6 (24). This forms the small domed center for the petal base. Finish round with sl st and do not fasten off; keep yarn attached for first petal layer.

Info :

These first rounds create a sturdy circular base for layering petals. Ensure the base is flat by adjusting tension; if it cups, loosen your hook slightly or add an extra hdc in Round 3 evenly.

Round 4 :

Ch3 (counts as first dc), *ch1, skip 1 st, dc5 in next st (cluster for petal), ch1, sk 1 st, sl st in next st (pivot between petals); rep from * to form 8 petal anchor points around the center. You should have eight dc5 clusters separated by ch1 spaces and sl st anchors. (8 petal anchors)

Info :

Anchor points are where each petal will be worked. Keep petals oriented outward; place a marker at the start of Round 4 to find petal centers easily later.

Round 5 (Petal Row A) :

Working into the ch1 space between anchors: ch1, sc in ch1 space, (ch3, tr, ch3) all in same ch1 space to create a pointed petal base, sl st into the next sl st anchor to lock; rep around for 8 shallow petals. Fasten off and weave in tail for this small layer or continue directly to next layer if you prefer attached petals.

Round 6 :

Rejoin cream yarn at base of petal anchor for Layer Two. Ch3 (counts as first dc), into same anchor work (2 dc, tr, 2 dc) to make a fuller petal top, ch2, sl st into the sl st anchor between petals to create separation; rep around for 8 larger petals. (Each petal cluster: 5 sts + a tr for height)

Info :

Layer One gives delicate inner petals; Layer Two creates the outer fuller petal. If you want a fuller flower, add a third petal round in slightly larger stitches using dtr/treble combinations. Keep petal counts equal (8 petals) to preserve symmetry.

Round 7 (Petal Sculpting) :

Using cream, ch1, work 3 sc across each petal face to create a crisp edge, then work 1 sc in the sl st anchor between petals. Repeat around. This anchors the petal edges to the base and creates a slightly cupped petal face. (total stitch count = 8 petals x (3 sc) + 8 anchor sc = 32)

Round 8 :

Ch1, sc evenly around the entire motif working 1 sc in each sc and 2 sc in each petal center to ease the petal edge—aim for a total of 40 sc around. Place a marker at the start for reference. Fasten off if using beads later.

Info :

If you plan to add small gold bead 'berries' between petals later, leave a long tail for stitching and beading. You can also embroider a small center with gold yarn using French knot or sewn beads.

Round 9 (Optional Center Bead Cap) :

With gold or mustard yarn, MR, ch1, 8 sc in MR, tighten and sl st to join—fasten off leaving long tail. Sew this small gold disc to the motif center and sew on 6-8 seed beads in a cluster for realistic poinsettia centers. (8)

Info :

Make four identical poinsettia motifs. For a slightly larger bloom repeat Rounds 6-8 increasing the dtr or tr in the petal apex to add height and a larger footprint on the runner.

— Leaf Clusters (Make 6 leaves per poinsettia; total 24 leaves) :

Round 1 :

With forest green and a 3.5mm hook, ch12. Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next, 1 dc in next 3 ch, 1 tr in next 2 ch (apex), 1 dc in next 2 ch, 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in last ch. Turn—this forms a tapered length for leaf base. (11 sts)

Round 2 :

Ch1, work along the opposite side of foundation chain: 1 sc in first foundation ch (opposite), 1 hdc, 2 dc, 2 dc in apex ch (to create a slight central ridge), 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Sl st to join at base. Fasten off and weave a long tail for sewing. This creates a slightly cupped leaf with a ridge in the center.

Info :

For texture, work the second row in BLO so the center ridge appears raised on the top surface. Alternatively, add a central surface slip stitch column to mimic veins.

Round 3 (Vein Detail) :

Rejoin green at the leaf base, ch1, sc into center top of leaf, surface sl st up center ridge approximately 5-7 times to create a vein; fasten off. Repeat to make 6 leaves per flower. Leaves can be varied in size by using ch10 for small and ch14 for larger accent leaves.

Info :

Place three leaves beneath each poinsettia facing outward (left, center, right) and an additional three staggered between them to create a layered foliage effect. Use pins to arrange before sewing.

— Tiny Berry Clusters (Make many, place between petals and leaves) :

Round 1 :

With gold yarn and 3.0mm hook, MR, ch1, 5 sc into MR, tighten and sl st to join (5). Fasten off leaving tail to stitch cluster in place. Optionally glue or sew a small seed bead to center of this cluster.

Info :

Make 6-8 small clusters for each flower grouping. These give the faux-berry look and elaborate the center of the runner. If you prefer no beads, use the gold yarn clusters alone for a subtle effect.

— Attaching Motifs to Panel :

Info :

Position the four poinsettia motifs on the blocked burgundy panel at the pre-marked shell centers. Pin each motif so it sits centered on a shell center and so that the petals overlap the mesh slightly, creating a cohesive layered look. Under each flower place its 6 leaves in a fan arrangement, pinning them so the largest leaf points toward the runner edge.

Round 1 :

With matching burgundy thread or crochet yarn and a yarn needle, whip stitch the flower base onto the panel by sewing through the round that was made in Round 8 of the poinsettia motif. Take shallow stitches through the burgundy panel to avoid distorting the mesh. Sew around the base at 8 evenly spaced points to anchor firmly. Knot and weave ends. Repeat for all four flowers.

Info :

Sew leaves under the wreath of the flowers using small blind stitches. Sew the leaves only at the base so their tips remain free and slightly raised for dimension. If you prefer a sturdier attach, tack the midpoints of leaves with one or two small stitches.

Round 2 :

Sew small gold bead clusters (berry clusters) into the grid spaces surrounding each flower by using the long tails from the gold clusters or sewing beads separately with embroidery thread. Secure beads tightly and knot ends on the wrong side of the panel. Trim thread close after weaving ends.

Info :

Place berries asymmetrically for a natural cluster appearance. Use 3-5 tiny beads near each flower center and a few along the leaf tips to echo the photo design.

— Joining Extra Decorative Appliques (Optional) :

Round 1 :

Some burgundy panels include additional small cream quatrefoil motifs along edges. To make these: MR, ch1, 8 sc into MR, sl st; ch5, sl st into alternate sc to create loops; fasten off and sew into place along runner edges between scallops as desired.

Info :

These extras are optional and help visually transition the central burgundy into the scalloped cream border for a continuous lace appearance.

— Main Scalloped Border (Worked onto entire runner edge in cream) :

Info :

Work the border after motifs are sewn down and panel blocked. The border is worked in rounds around the entire rectangular panel using cream yarn to create a lace scallop with pointed diamond corners. Begin at one short end and work evenly around.

Round 1 :

With cream yarn and 3.5mm hook, join with sl st to any edge st on the short end. Ch1, work 1 sc in each edge st evenly around short end for approx 12 sc (depending on panel width). At corner work 3 sc into corner space to maintain turn. Continue along long side placing sc evenly; aim for same number of sc on both long sides. Join with sl st. Count total sc around for future repeats.

Round 2 :

Ch3, *sk 2 sc, (5 dc, ch2, 5 dc) in next sc (big shell), sk 2 sc, sl st in next sc; rep around. At corners work (5 dc, ch2, 5 dc) into the corner sc to create diamond points. Join with sl st. This creates a dramatic scalloped shell with diamond corner points. Maintain consistent shell placement relative to the panel shell points for symmetry.

Info :

Ensure shells sit neatly by working them over a regular number of base sc; adjust by adding or skipping 1-2 sc in the base band as needed to maintain even shells around the curved/pointed corner areas. Blocking later evens shell shapes.

Round 3 :

Ch1, work 1 sc in each dc across shells and in ch2 spaces work (ch3, picot, ch3) then sl st into top dc of shell to create an open lacy connector; repeat around. This trims the shells with a delicate lacy row and creates small loops suitable for gold bead accents.

Round 4 :

Ch1, *1 sc in each of the next 3 dc, (picot, sl st) in ch3 loop to create raised scallop points; rep around making sure diamond corners remain pointed by placing an extra picot set in the ch2 corner space. Join with sl st and fasten off. Weave in ends.

Info :

If you want a deeper scallop like the sample photo, add an additional shell round (Round 2 repeat) before finishing with the lacy trim. Adjust bead placement accordingly, typically sewing one bead cluster at each diamond corner.

— Decorative Outer Picot Lace (Final Edge Accent) :

Round 1 :

Rejoin cream at top of each scallop. Ch4, (sl st into base sc, ch4) repeat around working 1 loop per scallop to create consistent loops along edge. Join and fasten off.

Round 2 :

Into each loop work (sc, picot, sc) to create delicate points. At diamond corners work (sc, ch3, picot, ch3, sc) to maintain a larger point. Fasten off and weave all ends neatly to wrong side. This replicates the cream scalloped edging in the picture.

Info :

Sew small gold clusters into the center of each diamond scallop using the tiny gold MR clusters you made earlier. This echoes the photo where each scallop diamond has a small gold center dot.

— Final Finishing Rounds & Blocking :

Round 1 :

Give the entire piece a final gentle blocking: pin to desired rectangular dimensions on blocking mat, gently block petals upward so flowers remain slightly domed. Wet block or steam lightly as appropriate for your yarn fiber. Allow to dry fully.

Info :

After blocking, check all seams and beads; reinforce any loose stitches. Weave in all tails at least 3-4 inches into the piece and trim flush. Add a light spray starch if desired to keep petals shaped longer.

Round 2 :

Final inspection: press petals lightly with fingers to shape. Use pins to raise leaf tips if necessary and add a small invisible tack stitch behind each leaf base for stability. Your runner is complete.

Info :

Store flat to preserve shape. For washing, hand wash gently and block again to reshape. Avoid machine washing as bead and petal structure may be damaged.

Assembly Instructions

  • Position each poinsettia motif centered over pre-marked shell centers on the blocked burgundy panel. Pin securely with sewing pins, verifying even spacing between motifs and symmetry along the runner length.
  • Sew each poinsettia by stitching through the motif’s Round 8 base and into the burgundy panel at eight evenly spaced points; use small stitches so the seam is secure but invisible on the right side.
  • Arrange 6 leaves under each flower in a fan arrangement (3 larger leaves and 3 smaller, staggered) and baste lightly at their bases through the panel shell intersection. Final-tack each leaf with small neat stitches.
  • Sew gold berry clusters and seed beads into the grid spaces between petals and leaf tips using long tails or a beading needle; secure knots on the wrong side and hide thread tails inside the mesh.
  • Work cream scalloped border around the entire runner after motifs are attached; make sure shells align with the central panel shells and adjust base sc spacing as needed for even scallops.
  • Block the entire assembled runner flat, pinning petal edges slightly up to maintain 3D structure. After dry, trim any visible ends and reinforce any weak attachment points with an extra stitch or two.
  • If adding extra appliques or decorative motifs along the border, position them evenly using pins, then sew using matching yarn and invisible stitches. Avoid over-stitching which may distort the lace.
  • To finish, weave in all ends at least 3-4 inches and trim close. Optionally trim the wrong side with a small fabric backing for heavy-use tables.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each long round and at shell anchor points to avoid counting errors and maintain symmetry.
  • 💡Stuffing is not required—3D shaping is achieved using stitch tension and petal construction. Do not overstuff petals; use stitch structure to create volume.
  • 💡Attach safety beads or seed beads after sewing motifs in place to ensure correct placement and to avoid catching petals while sewing.
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension; petals require slightly tighter tension than the lace field so use a smaller hook for petals if needed.
  • 💡When sewing motifs, take shallow stitches into the panel to avoid pulling and distorting the background lace.
  • 💡Block the panel flat before attaching motifs to ensure even placement. Re-block after assembly for best finish.
  • 💡If the scalloped border feels tight, work one extra row of sc along the panel edge to add room for shells to sit neatly.
  • 💡Weave in ends thoroughly; any short tails may work loose when the runner is washed or handled.

This runner combines elegant color contrast with 3D floral texture to create a standout holiday centerpiece. The layered poinsettias and lacy scalloped border are romantic and heirloom-ready, perfect for special dinners and seasonal décor. As you finish each flower and stitch the delicate edge, you'll enjoy seeing the runner transform into a beautiful statement piece. 🎁🧶 Display proudly this holiday season and treasure it for years to come!

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Using worsted weight yarn and the recommended hooks, the sample runner measures approximately 12 inches wide by 44 inches long. Different yarn weights or hook sizes will change final dimensions proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. You can use lighter or heavier yarns, but adjust hook size accordingly and re-measure your center panel and motif spacing. Thicker yarn will yield a larger, denser runner and may need fewer shell repeats.

Do the poinsettias require stuffing?

No. The 3D effect is achieved with stitch shaping and layered petal rounds. Using a tighter hook for petals and sculpting with surface slip stitches creates a raised look without stuffing.

How do I secure beads so they won't fall off?

Sew beads with an embroidery needle and matching thread or thin yarn, pass through each bead twice, and secure knots on the wrong side. Weave thread ends into the fabric for extra security.

How do I prevent the runner from curling after blocking?

Block the runner flat with pins to final dimensions and allow to dry completely. If curling occurs, add a lightweight starch spray or add an additional round of even sc to the border to weigh edges slightly.

Can I machine wash the finished runner?

Hand wash gently in cool water and reshape while damp. Avoid machine wash to protect beads and the delicate scalloped edging; re-block after washing.

How do I adjust spacing for more or fewer poinsettias?

Adjust the length of the center panel by adding or subtracting the shell-grid repeats in multiples that maintain symmetry. Add or remove motif positions by spacing them evenly along the grid centers before attaching.

Is this suitable for beginners?

This pattern is intermediate due to layered motifs, beadwork, and border shaping. Confident beginners willing to practice petals and shell repeats can follow it with patience.