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Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern

Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern
4.7★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🎄

Holiday Cheer 🎄

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern

This pattern creates a long runner composed of four connected circular cream doilies, each centered with a cute reindeer face. Lush dark green holly leaves and bright red bows surround each circle, with clusters of red bobble berries and tiny white star flowers to complete the festive look. The reindeer faces are appliqued onto the cream rounds and built with small crochet pieces (snout, nose, ears, antlers) for dimensional detail. This runner scales by adding or removing medallions, giving you creative flexibility.

Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The finished runner has a classic, slightly vintage look and is intended to sit flat on a dining or console table. Pieces are crocheted separately and sewn or slip-stitched together, with a decorative edge to unify the design.

Why You'll Love This Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because the repeating medallion format makes it satisfying to work — you get the joy of finishing a complete motif and then repeat that happiness across the runner. The three-dimensional reindeer faces and textured holly clusters give the runner real character; they feel like little sculptural accents that make the table sing during the holidays. I also enjoy how modular the design is — you can easily add more circles to fit your table or change colors for a fresh look.

Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved writing this pattern because the modular medallion approach gives you so many ways to customize the final runner. You can add or remove medallions to fit your table length or switch colors (for example ivory and sage for a softer palette, or a gold accent yarn for a sparkly holiday effect).

I encourage experimenting with different bows (make them larger or add a center gem), changing berry color to a deep cranberry, or using a lighter hook for a lacy, delicate runner. You can also convert the motifs into individual placemats or use one medallion as a trivet.

I often swap safety eyes for embroidered eyes and add small beads for sparkle in the flower centers. Try crocheting the antlers with a small amount of wired core to pose them differently — it adds personality and makes each reindeer unique.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven applique placement; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds can create lumpy or uneven canvas; keep a steady gauge to ensure circular motifs sit flat ✗ Not stuffing snouts lightly before sewing can produce a flat, lifeless face; stuff gradually to keep shape without stretching stitches ✗ Joining motifs without pinning first leads to uneven spacing; pin and measure placement before slip-stitching or sewing ✗ Using a hook that is too large for amigurumi pieces (like snouts and bows) creates loose stitches and visible stuffing; use a slightly smaller hook for tight pieces ✗ Working bobbles too tightly or too loosely changes their size and look; practice bobble tension before making the clusters ✗ Failing to weave in long tails securely at stress points (like bows) results in slipping; weave tails through multiple rounds and tie an interior knot

Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern

A festive, vintage-inspired table runner made from repeating cream round motifs framed with lush green holly leaves, bright red bows and three-dimensional reindeer faces. Each circular medallion features a textured reindeer snout, bobble nose, crocheted antlers and clusters of berries for a charming holiday centerpiece. The pattern uses simple motifs joined together with a decorative border — perfect for holiday decorating or gifting.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 300g in Cream (main doilies)
  • 02
    150-200g in Dark Green (holly leaves, border)
  • 03
    120-150g in Bright Red (bows, berries)
  • 04
    60-80g in Light Brown (reindeer face and snout)
  • 05
    30-40g in Dark Brown (antlers, inner ear accent)
  • 06
    Small amounts (10-15g) in Black (safety eyes) and White (tiny star flowers)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (doilies and leaves)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for smaller details (snout, nose, ears, antlers)
  • 03
    2.75mm (C) hook optional for very tight bobbles or eye areas
  • 04
    Set of safety eyes 6-8mm (or black beads) or black embroidery thread to embroider eyes
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (small amount for snouts and noses)
  • 06
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving ends
  • 07
    Stitch markers (at least 6 for multiple motifs)
  • 08
    Scissors
  • 09
    Pins for assembly
  • 10
    Optional: floral wire for optional shaped antlers or poseable elements
  • 11
    Optional: fabric glue for securing knots or beads

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Reindeer Head (Main Face Applique) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

Work the reindeer face flat in the round — this piece will be the base 3D facial disc that sits slightly proud of the cream doily. Use light brown worsted yarn and a 3.0mm hook for a tidy, slightly firm fabric.

Round 9-14 :

1 sc in each st (48) — work six rounds even to create height for the face (48)

Info :

Mark the first stitch of each round. Place the snout later centered on the lower third of this face. If you prefer a flatter face, work only 4 rounds even.

Round 15 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 16 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 17 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

Begin light stuffing of the facial disc if you want a slightly padded look. Use only a small pinch of polyester fiberfill — this piece should remain fairly flat so it adheres well to the cream doily.

Round 18 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 19 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 20 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 21 :

6 dec (6) - fasten off leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Weave the tail to the wrong side and flatten the face disc carefully. This small round will be sewn to the cream doily so leave the tail long for seam security.

— Snout (Make 1) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Info :

Stuff the snout lightly — this should be slightly padded to stand proud of the face disc without being spherical. Use the same light brown as the face, and a 3.0mm hook to keep it tidy.

Round 6 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (6)

Round 7 :

6 sc around (6) - fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing

Info :

Sew the snout to the center lower third of the face disc using the long tail. Secure firmly; take small stitches around the base so the join is invisible from the front.

— Nose (Bobble Nose) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

Work 6 bobbles evenly spaced around: *[yo, insert, yo, pull], repeat until 5 loops, draw through all loops, ch1 to secure* x6 (use bright red)

Info :

Alternatively make a tightly stuffed small sphere: (1 sc, inc) x 3 to 9 then fasten off and stuff. Attach directly to the snout tip, centered, and secure with several passes.

Round 4 :

Fasten off leaving long tail and sew the nose to the outer center of the snout. Use small, neat stitches to hide the join.

— Eyes (Make 2) :

Info :

Place safety eyes between rounds 11-12 of the face disc about 8-10 stitches apart depending on desired expression. Alternatively embroider eyes with black yarn: 6-8 embroidered satin stitches or French knots to mimic glossy eyes.

Option :

If using safety eyes, insert them before the snout is sewn down — ensure the washer is secure and that stuffing is light around that area.

— Ears (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (12) - fold ear and sl st base to create a slight cup; fasten off leaving long tail

Info :

Sew ears to the upper sides of the face disc at approximately rounds 4-6 (counting from the center), angle them slightly forward for a natural profile. Add a small inner ear stitch with dark brown for contrast.

— Antlers (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (7) - turn to create a stem

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in each st across (7) - ch1, turn

Round 3 :

At st 3 from base create a short branch: ch4, sl st back into branch base; continue sc to end (7)

Round 4 :

Create 1-2 additional tiny branches by chaining 3-4 and anchoring back with sl st to the stem at staggered positions. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Info :

Antlers are worked flat and are best made with dark brown yarn. Starch lightly if you want them stiff, or insert thin floral wire inside before sewing for shape retention. Sew antlers to top of head between the ears using a ladder stitch for an invisible join.

— Cream Doily Circle (Main Medallion) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Info :

Switch to cream yarn and use a 3.5mm hook for the large medallion. Keep rounds smooth and tension even — the medallion must lay flat to serve as the runner motif base.

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, inc) x 6 (72)

Info :

To introduce delicate lace spacing, change Round 13 to a mixed dc and ch-skip round which creates an open, vintage look and helps the holly leaves tuck under the edge.

Round 13 :

*dc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts* rep around (72 plus ch-ps) - sl st to join

Round 14 :

*dc in next 2 sts, (dc, ch1, dc) in ch-2 space, dc in next 2 sts, ch1* rep around to create small shells (72)

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st and in each ch-1 space (72)

Round 16 :

*1 sc in next 5 sts, 3 sc in next st* rep around (84)

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st (84)

Round 18 :

*1 sc in next 6 sts, inc* rep around (96)

Round 19 :

1 sc in each st (96)

Round 20 :

*1 sc in next 7 sts, inc* rep around (108)

Round 21 :

1 sc in each st (108)

Round 22 :

*1 sc in next 8 sts, inc* rep around (120)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st (120)

Info :

At this stage the medallion measures roughly 12-14 cm across depending on yarn and hook. If you prefer a slightly smaller motif, stop at Round 18; for larger motifs continue increases two more rounds (inc rounds would produce 132 and then 144).

Round 24 :

*sc in next 3, ch2, sc in next 3, shell (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) in next st* rep around to create decorative scallops (120)

Round 25 :

Work a neat single crochet round in BLO to create a ridge for applique placement: 1 sc in each st BLO (120)

Info :

Place the completed reindeer face slightly above the vertical center of the cream medallion — approximately 1/3rd down from the top — so the bow and holly border can sit comfortably under the face. Use pins to hold the face in place prior to sewing.

— Red Bow (Make 1 for each medallion) :

Left Loop Round 1 :

Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (11)

Left Loop Round 2-4 :

Ch1, turn, sc in each st (11) - repeat 3 rows to make a rectangular loop (11)

Left Loop Round 5 :

Fold rectangle in half and join edges with sl st; fasten off leaving a tail (creates small rounded loop)

Right Loop :

Repeat Left Loop instructions to make a symmetric loop

Knot/Centre :

Ch 4, sc in each ch (3), wrap several times around the two loops and sew the wrap securely at the back. Fasten and weave ends (use bright red and a 3.0mm hook)

Tails (Make 2) :

Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (9), ch1, turn, sc 3 rows; fold tail to shape a V by sl st at the end, fasten off and trim at angle. Attach tails directly behind bow center and sew onto the base of each medallion.

Info :

Make bows slightly flat rather than stuffed. Use a smaller hook (3.0mm) to get crisp shaping and neat edges. Secure the bow to the cream medallion where the bottom center will sit between the holly clusters.

— Holly Leaf (Make multiple per medallion) :

Round 1 :

Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across to end (9)

Round 2 :

Ch1, turn, sc across (9)

Round 3 :

Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, tr in next st, ch2, sl st into last st to form a pointed tip; continue down other side mirroring stitches to create symmetrical leaf (work opposite side back toward start)

Round 4 :

Edge the leaf with picot points: *sc, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch* along both long edges to create serrated holly tips; fasten off (use dark green)

Info :

The leaf structure is intentionally flat and slightly textured. Make 4-6 leaves for each medallion: two larger leaves at the bottom and 2-4 smaller filler leaves around the sides.

— Berry Clusters (Make clusters of 3-5 small bobbles each) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Work 6 small bobbles evenly around, or do (1 sc, bobble) x 3 for a tight berry cluster — use bright red yarn (6 visible bobbles)

Round 3 :

Fasten off leaving tail to sew the cluster in place; attach clusters in groups of 2-3 around leaves and near the bow

Info :

To make a convincing berry cluster, group bobbles close together and sew a few stitches between the bobbles so they sit tightly. Use small stitches through the berry base to secure them to leaves and medallion edge.

— Tiny White Star Flowers (Make multiple) :

Round 1 :

Ch 5, sl st to form ring, (ch3, sl st) x 5 to form 5 tiny petals — fasten off (use white)

Info :

Sew tiny white flowers sparingly as filler on leaf clusters; they add a vintage, frosty accent around the berries and holly leaves.

— Joining One Motif to Another (Make 4 motifs total for runner shown) :

Info :

Work four identical cream medallions with applied reindeer faces, bows, holly leaves and berry clusters. Arrange them in a line and pin in place: motifs should butt edges together with approx 1 cm overlap where border stitches will hide seams.

Round 1 :

With dark green yarn and 3.5mm hook, join motifs using slip stitch: align motif A and motif B, and sl st through outermost scallop of motif A and corresponding scallop of motif B every 8-10 stitches to create a secure flat join

Round 2 :

Once motifs are joined in pairs, connect the pairs using the same method so all four form a continuous runner. Fasten off and weave ends

Info :

Alternatively sew motifs together with mattress stitch for an invisible seam if you prefer a sewn join over slip stitches. Pin heavily and check flatness as you go.

— Outer Decorative Border (Over entire joined runner) :

Round 1 :

With dark green yarn, join at one seam and sc evenly around the entire runner edge, working 3 sc in each scallop point and 1 sc in straight areas to smooth curve. Keep stitch count even.

Round 2 :

*sc in next 2 sts, picot (ch3, sl st in 3rd ch)* rep to create tiny ivy points around border (st count varies by runner length)

Round 3 :

Work small scallop edgings where desired: *skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next* rep along the long runner sides for vintage lace detail

Info :

The border unifies the motifs and also hides any slight spacing between medallions. If your motifs are slightly warped, block the entire runner flat and then attach the border to a smooth base.

— Additional Decorative Motifs (Optional: Make accent sprigs) :

Leaf Sprig Round 1 :

Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch across (5), ch3 fold and sl st to create a tiny point; make several and attach as filler between medallions

Info :

These small filler sprigs are quick to make and are great to cover joints or add extra texture. Use one or two between medallions as needed for balance.

— Finishing & Blocking :

Info :

Weave in all ends. Lightly steam or wet-block the runner to flatten and shape the scallops and leaves. Pin flat while drying to preserve the silhouette. If you used safety eyes, ensure runners are for decorative use only (not for small children) or embroider eyes instead.

Info :

Trim any excess stuffing from snouts or noses that show; final shaping of bows may be enhanced by a small amount of fabric glue under the center wrap for security.

— Tips and Stitch Techniques Used Frequently :

Info :

Bobble stitch method: [yo,bk into st,yo,pull] repeat 4-5 times then yo and pull through all loops; ch1 to secure. Use consistent tension to make uniform berries. Invisible decrease (dec) = insert hook into front loop of next 2 sts and complete sc together for a neat finish. Use BLO rounds to form ridges for applique placement. Use small amounts of stuffing for facial elements — no piece should be rigid.

Info :

Every medallion is identical: once you perfect one, make three more using it as a template for positioning reindeer face and embellishments. Take photos of placement while pinning to replicate exact positions across all medallions.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the reindeer face disc to the cream doily by centering it at approximately 1/3 from the top. Pin the face, then sew around the base with the long tail using a whip stitch through the face back and the BLO ridge of the cream medallion to hide the seam.
  • Sew the snout centered on the face disc lower third (snout made in the Snout section). Use small, even stitches and secure with multiple passes. Then attach the bobble nose to the snout center with strong hidden stitches.
  • Place and secure safety eyes or embroidered eyes between rounds 11-12 of the face disc, roughly 8-10 stitches apart. If using safety eyes, install before final stuffing and before the snout is fully sewn.
  • Pin and sew the ears at the upper sides of the face disc (approximately round 4-6 from the center) with a slight forward tilt. Sew antlers behind and above the ears, anchoring through several rounds of the face disc for stability.
  • Position bows under each face and sew securely at the base center of the medallion (use the central back wrap of the bow knot to anchor). Attach tails beneath the knot and secure at multiple points to stop flaring.
  • Arrange holly leaves and berry clusters around the medallion edge, pinning them to hide joins and seam points. Sew leaves and berry clusters from the wrong side into the cream doily and through the green border for a secure hold.
  • Join medallions by aligning scallops and slip stitching through outermost points with dark green yarn. Pin entire runner and then work the outer decorative border around the connected runner, joining the seam edges invisibly.
  • Weave in all tails through multiple internal stitches, tie an interior knot if necessary for stressed joins like bows, and trim ends. Block the runner pinned flat to finish the shape and ensure a tidy edge.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff small facial pieces lightly and gradually; overstuffing distorts the applique and makes sewing difficult
  • 💡Position safety eyes before stuffing head areas — they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • 💡Work tightly for snouts and noses (use a slightly smaller hook) so stuffing does not show through stitches
  • 💡Pin and measure motifs before joining; uniform placement ensures a symmetrical runner
  • 💡Weave all ends securely through several rounds and hide knots inside thicker appliques for durability
  • 💡When making multiple identical motifs, keep one assembled motif as a placement template for the others
  • 💡Block the finished runner flat to even out scallops and ensure leaves lay flat before final sewing

This Cream Reindeer With Green Holly Table Runner is a labor of love that brings a traditional holiday touch to your table. Each medallion comes together with charming reindeer faces, joyful bows and festive holly clusters—perfect for creating warm memories. The modular structure means you can adjust the runner length to suit your table. 🎀🧶 Spread holiday cheer with every stitch and enjoy displaying your handmade centerpiece for seasons to come. Happy crocheting! 🎄

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Using worsted weight yarn and the specified hook sizes, the 4-medallion runner measures approximately 100-120 cm (39-47 inches) long and about 22-26 cm (8.5-10.5 inches) wide. Changing hook or yarn weight will change the final size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes — you can substitute yarn weights, but adjust your hook size accordingly and expect the medallion diameter and overall runner length to change. A lighter yarn will produce a delicate runner; a bulkier yarn will produce a thicker, larger runner.

Do I need safety eyes or can I embroider the eyes?

Both options work. Safety eyes give a glossy, professional appearance but add small parts. Embroidered eyes are safer for households with small children and provide full customization for expression.

How much stuffing will I need?

Only small amounts of polyester fiberfill are required — approximately 20-40 grams total for snouts and bobble noses across all medallions. Stuff lightly to avoid distorting applique stitches.

Can I add more medallions to lengthen the runner?

Absolutely. The pattern is modular — simply make additional medallions and join them with the same joining method. Ensure you have enough border yarn for the extra length.

How do I make the berries uniform?

Practice the bobble stitch a few times to get consistent tension. Use the same hook for all berries, and keep each bobble the same number of loops before pulling through all loops to secure.

What if my round counts are off?

Unravel to the last round where counts were correct and rework from there. Using stitch markers and counting after each round will prevent cumulative errors that affect circular motifs.

Is blocking necessary?

Blocking is recommended to flatten motifs and shape scallops and leaves. Pin the runner flat and steam or wet-block to final shape — this helps motifs join evenly and gives a polished finish.