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Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern

Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern
4.2★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates the photographed daisy lace runner made from cotton yarn in three colors: white petals, golden yellow centers, and leafy green connectors. The runner is constructed from repeated motifs: large daisies (flat centers with a full 12-petal layer), smaller daisies for variety, and multiple leaf motifs that interlock using lacy chainwork. Each motif is designed to lie flat and be stitched together to form a long, airy runner with a hand-made botanical look.

Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The motifs are crocheted flat and then connected by slip-stitching and chain loops, with a final bordering round for a durable, polished edge. This pattern focuses on clear, repeatable motif instructions so you can assemble a runner any length you desire.

Why You'll Love This Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it celebrates simple, botanical shapes and turns them into something unexpectedly elegant. The combination of crisp white petals, a warm yellow center and soft green leaves makes every motif feel fresh and cheerful. I also appreciate the modular construction — once you master one large daisy and the leaf unit, the rest is wonderfully meditative to crochet.

Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how modular this pattern is because it lets me create a runner any length or arrangement I want. Start with a test motif and decide whether you prefer a dense or airy look — I often make a second layer of petals for a fuller flower or skip it for a flatter daisy.

I like customizing the colors: try pastel centers for a vintage look or bright coral centers for a modern twist. You can also add a contrasting edge color to the final border to frame the runner. If you want a sturdier piece, use a slightly thicker cotton and a 4mm hook and adjust motif spacing accordingly.

For a different finish, replace the last picot round with an embroidered vine using a tapestry needle. Little swaps like that let this pattern fit your personal style perfectly.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of circular rounds can lead to misplaced petal spaces and uneven motif centres; mark round starts ✗ Pulling the yarn too tightly on chain connector loops makes joining motifs difficult later; keep chain tension relaxed ✗ Not blocking motifs before joining can cause wavy, uneven joins; lightly block each motif flat before assembly ✗ Neglecting to weave in ends before joining results in bulky seams and tangled threads under the runner ✗ Using too large a hook for cotton yarn results in floppy petals that don't hold shape; choose a hook that gives a firm fabric ✗ Joining motifs with inconsistent spacing will distort the finished runner; pin motifs in final layout and measure spacing before sewing

Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern

Bring a touch of spring to your table with this daisy lace table runner pattern. The design features large daisy motifs with layered petals, small daisies, and delicate leafy connectors crocheted in crisp white, sunny yellow and fresh green. The motifs are joined in a flowing, openwork layout to create a light, decorative runner that sits beautifully under a laptop, vase, or runner centerpiece. Perfect for cotton lovers and anyone who enjoys botanical, cottage-style decor.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Daisy Lace Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4) mercerized cotton, approximately 150-200g in main white color (petals)
  • 02
    50-70g in golden yellow (centers)
  • 03
    120-160g in leaf green (connectors and leaves)
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-20g each) in optional accent colors for alternate centers or leaf shades

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook recommended for a neat, firm fabric
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter details (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving and sewing
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Blocking pins and foam mat for lightly blocking motifs
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Optional: small amount of starch or fabric spray to stiffen motifs for a table runner
  • 09
    Optional: stitch holder or scrap yarn for holding petals

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— Overview :

Info :

This pattern describes three main motif types: Large Daisy motif, Small Daisy motif, and Leaf Connector motif. Work each motif flat. Join motifs using chain loops and slip stitches as described in the Joining and Assembly section. Block motifs lightly to flatten and even out stitches before joining. Use a 3.5mm hook for the described gauge and a dense, tidy fabric.

— Large Daisy (Make multiple as needed) :

Round 1 :

With golden yellow, 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

These rounds form a flat disc for the daisy center. Keep tension consistent and press the stitches flat with your fingers to maintain a smooth centre for petal attachment.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

Fasten off yellow center and switch to white for the petals. Join white in any stitch on Round 8 with a sl st where each petal will be made above one repeat - there will be 12 evenly spaced petal positions around this 48-st base (48/12=4; work petals into groups of 4 base sts).

Round 9 :

*sc in next 2 sts, ch4, skip next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts* rep 12 times (48 base sts; 12 ch4 loops created)

Info :

The ch-4 loops form the foundation for each petal. Keep chain tension loose enough to allow petals to fan without pulling the center out of shape.

Round 10 :

Work petals into ch-4 loops: *(sl st into loop, ch1, sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc, sl st)* rep 12 times (12 petals formed; petals are worked around loops only)

Round 11 :

*sl st behind petal to base st, sc in next 3 base sts* rep 12 times (48)

Info :

Round 11 anchors petals back to the base and evens spacing. When working behind petals, keep stitches low so petals sit proud of the center.

Round 12 :

Prepare second petal layer base: *sc in next st, ch5, sc in next st* rep 24 times (24 chain-5 spaces across 48 base sts)

Round 13 :

Form second-layer petals: *(sl st into ch5, ch1, sc, 2 hdc, 5 dc, 2 hdc, sc, sl st)* into each ch5 rep 24 times (24 smaller petals arranged in alternating positions)

Info :

This second petal layer creates a fuller, dimensional daisy. For a flatter look, skip rounds 12-13 and work only the first petal row.

Round 14 :

Work an anchoring round: *sc in each base st and through the back of each second petal as you go* (approx 48 sc; keep count 48)

Round 15 :

Edge tidy: *sc in next 2 sts, picot on next st (ch3, sl st in 3rd ch), sc in next 2 sts* rep 8 times around to create subtle scalloped edges (count remains 48)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in ends leaving long tail if you want to use this as a labeled join point for assembly. Block motif gently to flatten petals so they spread evenly.

— Petal Refinement (Optional extra depth for large daisy) :

Round 1 :

Re-join white at base between petals with sl st then ch1, sc in same st to reinforce (48)

Round 2 :

*FLO: 1 sc in next 4 sts BLO across to create a subtle ridge behind petals* rep to end (48)

Info :

Working in BLO creates a back ridge that helps petals stand forward visually; use this only if you prefer more structure.

Round 3 :

Work small back-stitch decorative ridges between petals: *ch2, sl st into base at petal seam, ch2, sl st into next seam* rep 12 (decorative chain loops)

Info :

Fasten off and weave in ends. This refinement increases the visual thickness of the motif and helps with joining stability.

— Small Daisy (Make several for visual interest) :

Round 1 :

With golden yellow, 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Info :

Small daisies use fewer rounds to keep them compact. These small centers sit nicely between large daisies and leaf clusters.

Round 4 :

Join white, *sc, ch3, sc* around to create 6 chain-3 loops (use alternating base sts) (18 base sts; 6 ch3 loops)

Round 5 :

Petals: *(sl st in loop, ch1, sc, 2 dc, sc, sl st)* rep 6 (6 small petals)

Round 6 :

Anchor back: *sl st into base st and sc in following two base sts* rep to end (18)

Info :

Small daisies are quick to make and look great grouped in threes between larger daisies. Block lightly for consistency.

— Leaf Motif (Make many) :

Round 1 :

With green, ch6, join to form a small ring, or start with mr and 6 sc (choose ring style) (6)

Round 2 :

Work central vein: ch1, 10 sc into ring evenly (10)

Round 3 :

Begin shaping: *sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next, dc in next 2, tr in next 2, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next* shaping left and right symmetric (10)

Round 4 :

Flip leaf and work return row along other side mirroring Round 3 to create point and fullness (10)

Info :

Work one side of the leaf along a short central chain and return along the opposite side; keep increases symmetric for neat shape. Leaves in the sample are plump and have a visible central vein formed by front post stitches in later rounds.

Round 5 :

Edge: *sc in next st, sc in next st, (3 dc cluster) in next, sc in next 2* rep around to define a ridged edge (10)

Round 6 :

FLO ridge: *1 sc in BLO for next 10 sts to create a raised vein behind leaf* (10)

Round 7 :

Make tip: *dec across last 4 sts to a point, chain 1 and secure* (6)

Round 8 :

Decorative picot at tip: *sc, ch3, sl st into 3rd ch, sc across base to start* complete both sides to produce finished leaf shape (10)

Info :

Leaves are normally made in pairs and joined by short chain stems to form leaf clusters. Make several sizes by varying the number of initial central chains (use ch8 for larger leaves).

— Leaf Cluster (Combine leaves into 1 cluster unit) :

Round 1 :

Create 3 medium leaves as above (3 leaves)

Round 2 :

Join leaves: Position leaves in a 3-point arrangement, join with green by working into edge sts of adjacent leaves: sl st through leaf edge, ch6 to form stem connector, sl st into adjacent leaf edge, rep to form 3 connectors

Info :

These clusters mirror the photo where small daisies sit within a star of leaf points. Make many clusters; vary spacing to shape your runner as desired.

— Connector Chain & Lacy Net (Build the openwork lattice) :

Round 1 :

With green, attach at a leaf cluster junction, ch8, sl st into designated petal seam on adjacent daisy to form a long connector (8-ch loop)

Round 2 :

*From that point, ch5, sc into next motif join point, ch5, sl st into next motif* rep to create repeating diamond-shaped spaces between motifs

Round 3 :

Strengthen lattice: *work sc around each chain space: (sc, ch2, sc) into each chain-5 loop* so the lattice is firm yet lacy

Info :

Chains vary in length between motifs to suit your layout. Keep chain loops consistent for an even openwork pattern. Use stitch markers to mark corresponding joining points on motifs for neat alignment.

Round 4 :

Decorative double net: *in each diamond space, ch3, sl st to opposing edge and chain 3 again to create an X effect* rep across runner sections

Round 5 :

Fasten off and weave in ends at several connector points to prevent stretching

— Joining Motifs (Detailed step-by-step assembly) :

Info :

Pin your motifs in the desired layout on a blocking mat. Use rust-proof pins and a ruler to keep spacing even. Joining is done with green yarn so joins blend into leafwork; you may also join with a neutral color if you prefer visible seams.

Round 1 :

Join first large daisy to adjacent daisy: align petal seams, holding motifs wrong sides together, insert hook through both base stitches at seam and sl st across 6 seam points (approx 6 sl sts per seam) to create a stable seam

Round 2 :

Bridge with chain connectors: at each junction between daisies add ch6 loops attached into petal gaps to later loop into leaf clusters (maintain 6 ch loops per seam)

Info :

When joining, sew along the anchors used in Round 11 and Round 14 of each daisy where the petals meet the center — these are strongest points for reliable joins.

Round 3 :

Attach small daisies: position in triangular voids created by larger daisies and secure by slip stitching through 3-4 petal bases so they bridge adjacent large motifs

Round 4 :

Attach leaf clusters: using slip st and short chains, join leaf clusters to junctions around daisies: at each leaf attach point make 3 sl st and a ch8 stem that attaches to a petal base on a nearby daisy

Round 5 :

Reinforce all joins: go back through each connection and add an extra sl st or sc to tighten and prevent sagging over time

Info :

Take time to pin and adjust join spacing — visual symmetry is key. Joining is as much assembly as crochet: small adjustments before final sewing make a huge difference.

— Edge and Final Border (Give runner a finished rim) :

Round 1 :

With green, join at one edge and work 1 sc evenly around the entire runner following motif edges, placing 2 sc at corners or petal tips to accommodate curvature (maintain count by eye)

Round 2 :

*(ch3, skip 2 sts, sc in next) rep around to create airy scallop net* (sc count will vary with runner length)

Info :

If your runner is long, break yarn and join fresh skeins with a neat join to avoid lumps. Work border evenly and try it on as you go to maintain consistent tension.

Round 3 :

Decorative shell: *in each ch3 sp work (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc), sl st into next sc* rep to end to create small shell scallops

Round 4 :

Picot finish: *sc into top of each shell, ch3, sl st into 3rd ch for picot, sc into next shell top* rep for neat finish

Info :

Fasten off, weave in all tails along the underside of the runner using a yarn needle. Trim any excess and re-block the runner flat if necessary.

— Alternate Joining Variation (Tighter & Decorative) :

Round 1 :

Create visible join: use white to single crochet through edges of adjacent petals to create a fine, visible seam between daisies for a continuous white line effect

Round 2 :

Overcast join: after sc joining, work a row of sl st around the whole runner in green to blend with leafwork and secure all joins

Info :

This method gives a slightly denser runner and can be used for a sturdier table runner that sees frequent use.

— Finishing Touches :

Info :

After sewing motifs together and tidying ends, press or lightly steam block the runner on a towel using moderate heat — do not iron directly on mercerized cotton. For extra stiffness, mist with diluted starch and pin to shape until dry.

Info :

Optional: add small decorative beads or a loop at one end to hang the runner as wall art rather than on a table.

Info :

Pattern note: counts for some openwork rounds vary with runner length and arrangement; when counts are approximate the visual spacing is the primary guide — maintain symmetry and even loop sizes rather than exact numeric counts for long chain networks.

Assembly Instructions

  • Block all motifs flat and pin to layout on a blocking mat in the desired arrangement before joining to ensure even spacing and straight edges
  • Attach head of each large daisy to the body of the runner by aligning the round-11/round-14 anchor stitches and slip stitching through both motifs for 6-8 joins per seam to ensure stability
  • Position small daisies in triangular spaces between large daisies and secure by slip stitching through 3-4 petal bases into adjacent large-daisy bases to create balanced clusters
  • Attach leaf clusters using ch6-8 connector stems: sew stems to petal base seams and reinforce with a couple of extra single crochet stitches for durability
  • Create the lacy net connectors by working chain-5 and chain-8 loops between motifs as marked, then reinforce loops by working a row of sc around each loop for strength
  • Work the final edge rounds around the entire assembled runner, adding shells and picots as directed to create a consistent, polished rim

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the start of every round in circular work to avoid losing track and maintain symmetry
  • 💡Block each motif flat before joining; this ensures petals and leaves sit evenly and makes joining easier
  • 💡Work petals into chain loops rather than directly into stitches when you want puffed petals that lie on top of the center
  • 💡When joining motifs, pin everything in place and step back to check visual balance before sewing; small adjustments early will prevent crooked final shapes
  • 💡Weave in ends neatly along seams or under petals to hide them from the top of the runner
  • 💡For a rigid runner that will hold shape, lightly starch motifs after assembly and pin until dry
  • 💡Choose a hook slightly smaller than recommended for your cotton yarn if you see gaps in the stitchwork to reduce show-through of the table surface
  • 💡Keep tension consistent—cotton yarns are less forgiving of loose stitches in openwork patterns

This daisy lace table runner makes a lovely accent for any room — a little sunshine and texture for your tabletop! The modular motif construction makes it a relaxing, repeatable project that also allows for lots of creative freedom. Whether you make a short centerpiece runner or a longer table runner, you'll enjoy seeing each motif come together into a natural, floral composition. 🧶🌼 Add a light starch finish for a crisp look and display proudly on your favorite table. Happy stitching! ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Depending on how many motifs you join, a single panel of 6 large daisies with connecting leaves as pictured will measure approximately 10-12 inches wide by 28-32 inches long. Add or remove motifs to increase or decrease length.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes — you can use any yarn weight, but change your hook size accordingly (use a slightly smaller hook than recommended for the yarn to keep pets and leaves neat). Remember that heavier yarn will produce a thicker, denser runner.

Do I need to block the motifs?

Yes. Light blocking flattens petals and leaves and makes joining much easier. Pin each motif to shape on a foam mat, mist lightly and let dry.

How many yards of yarn will I need?

For the sample runner shown (about 6 large daisies, 4 small daisies and many leaves), plan on approximately 400-500 yards of white, 120-180 yards of green, and 80-120 yards of yellow. Exact amounts will vary with size and gauge.

Can I wash this runner?

Hand washing is safest for cotton lace — gently soak in cool water with mild soap and lay flat to dry. Light starch may wash out; re-starch after washing if desired.

How do I prevent the runner from stretching over time?

Reinforce joins with a second row of sl st or sc if the runner will be used frequently. Starching also helps maintain shape.

Can I make motifs larger or smaller?

Yes. Increase or decrease petal counts or use thicker or thinner yarn to change motif size. Adjust the number of base stitches in the center rounds proportionally to keep petal spacing even.

Are safety eyes or stuffing required?

No — this is a flat decorative motif set with no stuffing or safety parts; all pieces are worked flat and are safe for children but should be kept away from very small children if used decoratively with small embellishments.