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Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern

Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern
4.3★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🎄

Holiday Cheer

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

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About This Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern

This table runner is built from four repeating Santa medallions linked by a lacy cream frame and finished with holly leaves and cranberry-red berry clusters. Each round medallion has a deep forest-green circular background, an applied Santa face with textured looped beard, a red hat with white trim, and tiny pom-like berries. The overall look is layered, dimensional and richly festive — a stunning holiday centerpiece.

Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern focuses on modular motifs so you can make any number of medallions and customize length. I include detailed round-by-round instructions, color change tips, and assembly guidance so your runner matches the photographed piece.

Why You'll Love This Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines classic motifs — Santa, holly and lace — with layered crochet texture that reads beautifully from a distance and up close. The little pom berries and the scalloped beard add delightful dimensionality, while the lacy connecting frame gives a vintage, heirloom feel. This runner feels handmade but refined, perfect for holiday table settings.

Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how modular this runner is — I often make the medallions and then mix-and-match colors to create seasonal variations. Swap forest green for navy for a winter blue theme, or use gold instead of cream for a richer look.

I sometimes change the berry color to bright red-orange or deep wine to alter the mood of the runner. You can also add metallic thread sparingly in the cream rounds for a subtle shimmer at holiday parties. If you prefer a shorter table decoration, simply make two or three motifs and finish both ends with the pointed fleur extension.

Try adding a thin backing of felt to the underside if you plan to use the runner on delicate tabletops to protect the surface from slight snagging or from dampness during festive meals. Small adjustments — like more scallops on the beard or a taller hat — give each version its own personality.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of each round can cause miscounted stitches and uneven motif shaping; always mark round starts. ✗ Changing color without finishing the last loop on the previous color can create visible joins; always change in the final yarn over for a clean edge. ✗ Overstuffing any appliques or pom clusters will distort flat medallions; keep appliques flat and only lightly pad if needed. ✗ Not blocking motifs before assembly can result in mismatched edges and puckering in the lace; block each motif flat for consistent joins. ✗ Ignoring gauge and using a significantly different hook size will change motif diameter and cause joining issues; swatch and adjust hook if necessary. ✗ Skipping Info sections (timing for stuffing or color change) often leads to hard-to-fix mistakes; read Info notes before starting each round or section.

Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern

Create a festive Forest Green and Cranberry Santa table runner with four linked Santa medallions surrounded by lacy cream edging and holly clusters. This pattern includes detailed motif construction: Santa face appliques, textured beards, jaunty hats, deep green round backgrounds, and decorative holly and berries. Perfect for a holiday centerpiece, the pattern shows step-by-step rounds, color-change tips, and assembly notes to recreate the exact layered look shown in the photo.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Forest Green And Cranberry Santa Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) solid forest green (approx. 150-180g total, main background color)
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) cranberry red (approx. 80-100g for hats and berries)
  • 03
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) soft cream/ivory (approx. 180-220g for lacy frame, hat trims and beard)
  • 04
    Small amounts (15-25g) of flesh/peach color for face centers
  • 05
    Small amounts (10-15g) of black for embroidered eyes and deep brown for small accents if wanted

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work (adjust if you crochet tight/loose)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for tighter details and facial appliques (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Small stitch markers (at least 6)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking pins and foam mat to block motifs
  • 07
    Optional: stuffing or thin craft batting for very slight padding of face appliques
  • 08
    Optional: small crochet hook or darning needle to embroider eyes and mouth
  • 09
    Optional: fabric glue for securing pom or tiny berries if gifting to small children

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Santa Face (Flat Head Applique) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

Work the face in flesh/peach yarn. Keep tension moderate; this applique is slightly domed so do not work overly tight. This piece is worked flat and will be sewn onto the green background.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Info :

Eye placement note: embroider or place small beads/safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8, spaced approx. 10-12 sts apart centre-to-centre for the expression shown. If embroidering, use small stitches to keep eyes subtle.

Round 10 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 11 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Info :

Stop flattening too early — keep face slightly padded with a smidge of craft batting for three-dimensional effect. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing to the green circle.

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14 :

Fasten off and weave tail through remaining sts to close a tiny center if you want a slightly rounded back (optional). Leave front smooth. (18)

Info :

Do not overstuff; the face should remain mostly flat so the beard appliques sit on top. Securely weave in tails behind the face so they do not show when sewn onto the green background.

— Beard Base (Textured Beard Applique) :

Round 1 :

Using cream yarn, ch 4, join with sl st into ring to form a small loop, then 8 sc into that small ring (8) — or mr with 8 sc (8)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (16)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 8 (32)

Info :

This piece is an applied scallop beard that will be sewn along the lower half of the face applique. Use a slightly looser tension for the whirl of textured loops so the scallops puff slightly above the face.

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 8 (40)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (40)

Round 7 :

Switch to loop stitch technique across next round to form scallops — *ch1, insert hook, yarn over and pull up long loop 3 times across same st to create 3-loop puff; secure by working a sc in next st*; rep around to create 10 scallops (40)

Round 8 :

Work 10 shell scallops for beard edge: *(5 dc in same st, skip 2 sts, sl st) x 10* forming scalloped border (40)

Info :

Sew beard onto face across rounds 10-14 of the face piece covering the lower half of the face. Place beard so scallops form a semi-circle and do not obstruct the mouth area. Use mattress stitch for an invisible join.

Round 9 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. Weave in ends. (40)

— Nose & Mouth Details :

Round 1 :

Using small amount of cranberry or red, make a small nose: mr, 6 sc (6)

Round 2 :

Sl st into next st, fasten off leaving tail for sewing (6)

Info :

Sew nose centered above beard scallops ~2-3 stitches above the beard edge. Use a couple of small whip stitches around the base to flatten slightly. For mouth, embroider a small 'v' under the nose with brown or deep red thread.

Round 3 :

Embroider simple mouth: use brown yarn, backstitch a small 'v' shape under nose (no stitch counts)

Round 4 :

Optional: add light blush with a fabric-safe rosy paint dot on each cheek (do this after assembly)

— Santa Hat (Make 1 per motif) :

Info :

Work hat in cranberry red with cream trim. The hat is a flattened cone worked in rounds and edged with white trim. Use 4.0mm hook for body of hat and 3.5mm for trim if you want a tighter edge.

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring with red (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-12 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Rounds 6-12 build hat height. You can increase or decrease rounds for taller or slouchier hats. For the exact look in photo, stop after round 12 for a medium slouch.

Round 13 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 14 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 15 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 16 :

6 dec (6) – leave a long tail to close and flatten the hat peak slightly, shaping to the slouch desired (6)

Round 17 :

Switch to cream yarn for trim. Join with sl st and work 1 round of crab stitch (reverse sc) or 1 round sc BLO to create a neat rolled brim. (6)

Info :

Attach a small cream pom: make a small mr pom ball (6 sc) or work 6-8 dc into a mr and cinch to form a little bobble, then sew to hat tip.

Round 18 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing onto face centre top; position hat to cover the top quarter of the face and slightly overlap the forehead. (6)

— Central Green Background Circle (Make 1 per medallion) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring using forest green (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

These rounds create a stable circular base large enough for the Santa face applique to be sewn on. Block flat before attaching appliques to ensure uniform diameter across all motifs.

Round 13 :

1 hdc in each st around (48)

Round 14 :

1 dc in each st around (48)

Round 15 :

Work 1 round of *sk1, (3 dc in next st), sk1, sl st* to create subtle texture ring of puffed clusters at outer edge (48 clusters counted as 48)

Round 16 :

Fasten off and block flat to measurements: aim for approx. 18-20cm diameter (this gauge depends on yarn/hook); adjust rounds to increase/decrease diameter as needed.

— Inner Joining Round (Cream) :

Info :

Join face and beard appliques to the green background now. Center face on circle and use mattress stitch with cream or matching flesh color to invisible-sew around face edge. Tack beard first then sew face slightly over the beard base for layered effect.

Round 1 :

With cream, join at the outer edge of green circle and ch1, sc around the outermost green edge placing 1 sc in each st (48)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st BLO to create a subtle ridge and a surface for lace join (48)

Round 3 :

Work a decorative picot round: *sc, ch3, sl st in 3rd ch to form picot, sc* repeat creating 24 picots evenly spaced around (48)

Info :

This inner cream round is the base for the lacy frame and holly attachments. Keep tension even; if picots pull, block before proceeding.

— Lace Frame (Per Motif) :

Round 1 :

With cream yarn, join to one picot, ch4 (counts as tr), (tr, ch2, tr) in same picot to create a small arch. Skip 2 picots, sl st in next picot, ch4, (tr, ch2, tr) in same picot; repeat around to make 12 arches. (12 arches)

Round 2 :

Work across each arch: *(sl st into arch, ch5, sc into arch middle, ch5, sl st) x 12* creating decorative chains between arches (center openings increase) (12)

Round 3 :

Into each arch work a shell: *(5 dc, ch2, 5 dc) in arch top, sl st into base between arches* to form lacy scalloped points (12 shells)

Info :

Work loosely in the lace rounds; the lacy frame should drape and appear delicate. If you crochet tightly, go up one hook size for these rounds to keep the lace open.

Round 4 :

Between each shell, attach a tiny loop of green to begin holly leaf positioning: sl st into shell valley, ch3, join green with sl st. (12 green anchor points)

Round 5 :

Decorative connecting round: in cream, ch1, sc into base stitch, *ch4, sl st into next valley*, repeat around (creates small connecting lacy net) (48 chains)

Round 6 :

Work small star points to mimic the photo's pointed lace tips: *(sc, ch3, picot, sl st) into every other chain valley* repeat to create 24 small points

Info :

Do not fasten off. Leave long tails at predetermined positions where you will connect adjacent motifs. Each motif will be joined at 4 cardinal points plus minor connecting points along the scalloped edge.

— Holly Leaves (Make 8 large leaves per motif cluster pattern) :

Round 1 :

With forest green, ch 10. Row-style leaf: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 hdc, 4 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc across, then work down the opposite side: 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 4 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. Sl st to base to complete leaf. (counts depend on chain length, approx. 20 sts)

Round 2 :

Edge the leaf with picot points: *sl st, ch3, sl st into next st* around to form small points that mimic holly serrations. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Info :

Block leaves flat into shape. Make leaves in two slightly different sizes by changing ch start (ch8 for small leaf, ch12 for a large leaf). Placement in photo shows layered leaves — place larger behind smaller ones when assembling clusters.

— Holly Berry Clusters (Make many small berries) :

Round 1 :

With cranberry yarn, mr, 6 sc (6)

Round 2 :

6 sc (6) — work tightly to create a small puff ball

Round 3 :

Fasten off leaving tail to sew. Make clusters of 3-7 berries depending on placement (photo shows clusters of 3 and larger central cluster near runner ends).

Info :

Sew berries in tight groups, tacking each berry into the lace frame and through to the green base for stability. Use small backstitches between berries to group securely.

— Smaller Decorative Berries & Beads :

Round 1 :

Use tiny French knot style bead with crochet: with red yarn, work a small tight knot and sew in place as filler accents between larger berries (no crochet count)

Info :

These tiny accents fill small gaps and create the dotted cranberry effect seen along the trimmed cream lace. Use either tiny crocheted 6-sc balls or small seed beads sewn in — choose according to recipient safety needs.

— Extra Lace Connectors & Motif Joins :

Round 1 :

Position 4 motifs in a straight line. At the cardinal joining points (top and bottom centers and two side centers) use cream yarn to work chain bridged connectors: from motif A, sl st to outer cream round, ch6, sl st into corresponding picot on next motif B, finish with secure knot and weave tail. Repeat for each join.

Round 2 :

To reinforce joins, work 1 round of sc along the chained bridge each side: join yarn at mid chain and sc along chain and into adjacent picots to create a decorative ribbon link. Fasten off and weave tails invisibly. (counts vary)

Info :

Pin motifs in place on a blocking mat in final arrangement before sewing joins. The photo shows four round medallions linked edge to edge with narrow cream chain links and small decorative red dots right at the joins, so mark those spots before sewing.

— End Medallion Extension (Pointed Fleur at Runner Ends) :

Round 1 :

From last motif bottom join, continue cream lace to form elongated leaf with 5 lobes building outwards: ch10, sl st to secure, then form 5 petal shells: each petal = (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in one arch and finish with picot edge. Repeat to create symmetric triangle point. (5 petals per side)

Round 2 :

Edge the extension with small green leaves and a central cluster of 7 cranberry berries (create and sew 7 small berries into a flower cluster), then finish with cream pointing tip using picots. Fasten off.

Info :

These end points are decorative anchors for the runner and replicate the triangular flourish seen at each end in the photo. Make them identical both ends for balance.

— Decorative Scallops and Final Picot Edging :

Round 1 :

With cream cotton, join near each small connecting chain and work *ch3, sc, ch3, picot* repeating along outer lace edge to accentuate photo's airy look — approx. 48 small scallops around each motif.

Round 2 :

Work a final tidy round of sl st to even any uneven points, go around each motif perimeter and snip excess, weave tails on back. (approx. 48)

Info :

Final blocking: soak gently and pin each motif flat with correct spacing, pulling lace out to its points. Use steam blocking or wet-block and allow to dry fully. This makes joins tidy and motifs lie flat on the table.

— Assembly & Final Touches :

Round 1 :

After all motifs, leaves and berries are ready and blocked, lay out runner in straight line with even spacing. Use long whip stitches with cream yarn to sew lace bridges securely, then reinforce green base to base with a few invisible mattress stitches to keep motifs flat during use. (no st count)

Round 2 :

Sew on additional small red berry accents along seam lines for the dotted cranberry look outward from motifs. Weave and hide all ends on reverse and, if desired, add a few hand-stitched invisible tacks in the center of each motif to prevent buckling during use.

Info :

Consider lightly starching the finished runner for a crisp tabletop look, especially if it will be used as a centerpiece. Store flat to preserve shape and avoid heavy stacking on top of the lace points.

Assembly Instructions

  • Arrange four green medallions in a straight line and pin to blocking mat with edges touching to mimic the photographed layout before joining.
  • Attach Santa face/appliques to each green medallion centering face; sew with mattress stitch through the face backside and green base rounds 10-12 for even placement.
  • Sew hat slightly overlapping top of face: align hat tip pointing toward runner center; use whip stitch around hat base through both face and green background to secure.
  • Position holly leaf clusters at each lace junction (top, bottom and sides). Sew larger leaves first, then attach smaller leaves offset, then tack 3-7 berry balls in the center of each cluster to imitate photo grouping.
  • Join motifs using cream chain bridges at cardinal points: use long tail to whip stitch through picot bases of both motifs for a stable but decorative connection.
  • Add final cream scalloped edging across the entire runner and reinforce bridges with a second round of sc where the runner will see most handling (ends and midline).
  • Weave and hide all ends on the back using a yarn needle; for added durability, stitch through the green base and the first cream round to lock joins.
  • Block the entire runner flat again after assembly to set joins and keep lace points open; allow to fully dry before use.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers at the start of each round in circular pieces to prevent off-by-one errors and preserve symmetry.
  • 💡Block every major component (green circle, hat, beard, leaves) before final assembly; this ensures consistent sizing and tidy seams when joining motifs.
  • 💡When changing colors, complete the last loop of the stitch in the old color and finish the yarn over in the new color for clean joins.
  • 💡Keep applique pieces relatively flat; only lightly pad the face if you want a subtle 3D effect — too much stuffing will distort lace and make sewing difficult.
  • 💡Make berry clusters tightly and sew through to the green base to secure them; loose berries will flop and snag on table linens.
  • 💡If gifting to small children, skip beads and small glued parts; embroider eyes and sew all parts securely. Consider fabric glue only as reinforcement on underside seams, not visible fronts.

This Forest Green and Cranberry Santa runner is a joyful holiday heirloom that brings color, texture, and handmade charm to your table. Each medallion is a small scene you create stitch by stitch — Santa's warm face, fluffy beard scallops, and sparkling holly clusters. The lacy connecting frame ties everything together and creates a vintage-yet-festive centerpiece you'll be proud to display. 🎄🧶

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Using worsted yarn and a 4.0mm hook, the completed runner with four medallions measures approximately 110-125cm (43-49 in) long and about 20-24cm (8-9.5 in) wide, depending on blocking and gauge.

Can I change the number of medallions to make a shorter or longer runner?

Yes — the pattern is modular. Make as many round medallions as you like and join them with the same cream chain connectors. Add end extensions (fleur points) for a balanced look if you change the count.

Is this pattern safe for use around kids and pets?

Use embroidered features rather than beads or safety eyes for items handled by children. Sew berries securely; for extra safety, consider omitting small berry beads and using stitched accents instead.

What yarn weight and hook should I use to replicate the photo?

Worsted weight (#4) yarn and a 4.0mm (G) hook replicate the pictured density. If you crochet especially loosely, drop to a 3.75mm or 3.5mm hook to keep the motif edges tight and tidy for assembly.

How much yarn will I need overall?

Estimate: forest green ~150-180g, cream ~180-220g, cranberry ~80-100g, flesh ~15-25g, black accent tiny amount. Exact amounts depend on your tension and any length adjustments for more medallions.

Can the runner be washed?

Hand-wash gently in cool water and lay flat to dry after blocking. Avoid machine washing to preserve delicate lace and prevent berry distortion; spot-clean if possible.

How do I prevent the motifs from puckering when joined?

Block each motif before sewing and pin carefully to maintain alignment while attaching bridges. Use mattress stitch or whip stitch through corresponding rounds of the cream and green base rounds to keep joins flat.

Can I make the design reversible?

Because the appliques are stitched on top of the green background, the runner is not fully reversible. For a reversible look, make two mirrored layers and join them, but this will double yarn and work.