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Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern
4.6β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates a handmade joined-motif Christmas table runner composed of tiny decorative motifs β€” evergreen trees in gradated greens, bells in cream, circular ornaments and gift boxes in red and green β€” connected by a metallic-gold mesh. Each motif is worked separately in fine cotton thread and joined as you go into a repeating lattice with small star-like joins that form the overall openwork runner. The runner shown is narrow and long, perfect for a side table, console or center of a small table.

Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern emphasizes neat, consistent motifs and precise joining; motifs are crocheted in thread weight cotton and assembled with fine golden thread for the lattice. The design is modular and scalable β€” add or remove motif rows to change the length.

Why You'll Love This Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern

I love this runner because it mixes traditional Christmas shapes with delicate lacework β€” the tiny trees give a tactile 3D column while bells and presents add charming accents. I enjoy the rhythm of working many small motifs and the satisfying transformation as they join into an airy, elegant runner. The color contrasts of deep green, soft cream and warm red against the gold mesh make it feel festive and refined.

Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this design is β€” you can change the palette to match different holiday themes or seasons; try silver and blues for a wintery runner or pastels for a spring version. Use thicker cotton for a chunkier look or finer thread for a more delicate doily-style runner.

I often switch things up by rearranging motif placement: move the tree column to the center for a symmetrical runner, or scatter the bells and gifts more sparsely for a minimalist take. Add tiny beads or a satin ribbon threaded through the edge scallops for extra shine.

If you prefer fewer joins, stitch motifs into pre-made fabric netting and sew the netting to a backing for increased stability. You can also alter motif sizes by adding or removing rounds to suit your project length.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers on the mesh foundation will make motif placement uneven; mark repeat points frequently for accurate joining βœ— Using a hook that is too large for thread weight creates floppy motifs that will not hold shape; use a smaller hook for tighter stitches βœ— Changing colors without fastening off can create bulky joins and color bleed; weave in ends neatly or carry threads when appropriate βœ— Omitting blocking will make the motifs sit unevenly and the runner will not open into its lace grid; block each motif before final joining βœ— Not counting chains accurately in the lattice rows leads to misaligned motifs; recount chain spaces before attaching each motif βœ— Stuffing or padding motifs (if used) changes their height and will distort the even mesh; motifs in this design are flat and unstuffed βœ— Sewing motifs to the mesh instead of crocheting them into place can create visible seams; use join-as-you-go for tidy connections βœ— Not maintaining consistent tension across motifs creates an uneven edge; try to work with the same hand tension and same brand of thread

Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern

A delicate, lacy Christmas table runner made from joined motifs: tiny evergreen trees, bells, round ornaments, and gift boxes crocheted in fine thread and joined with a golden mesh. The finished runner has a column of graduated green trees down one side with rows of red, cream and green ornaments linked by a shimmering gold chain mesh. Perfect for holiday decor or as a centerpiece accent.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Joined Motif Christmas Tree Crochet Table Runner Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Size 10 cotton crochet thread (fine) approximately 120g in metallic gold (for mesh and joins, main connecting color)
  • 02
    50-60g dark green thread (for deep trees)
  • 03
    40-50g medium green thread (for mid-tone trees)
  • 04
    40-50g light green thread (for pale trees and small leaves)
  • 05
    30-40g cream/thread color (for bells)
  • 06
    30-40g deep red thread (for gift boxes and small hearts)
  • 07
    Small amounts (10-15g) in dark forest green and contrasting greens for tiny leaf accents

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    1.25mm (US 8 steel) crochet hook for fine thread work (adjust to your tension)
  • 02
    1.00mm or 1.1mm steel hook for very tight details (optional)
  • 03
    Small tapestry/yarn needle for weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers
  • 05
    Small blocking pins and a blocking board or foam mat
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Optional: tiny sewing pins for positioning motifs
  • 08
    Optional: fabric stiffener for extra crisp edge

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β€” Notes & Overview :

Info :

This runner is made of repeated small motifs joined into a mesh. Work each motif in fine thread (size 10 cotton) with a small steel hook; block motifs lightly before joining. The directions below give round-by-round instructions for each motif type and for the connecting mesh. Gauge is not critical but keeping tight stitches produces crisp motifs and a stable mesh.

Info :

Colors used in the sample: Metallic gold for mesh, deep forest green, medium leaf green, light moss green for graduated trees, cream for bells, deep red for presents and hearts, emerald green for round ornaments. You can substitute any fine thread colors to suit your decor.

β€” Foundation Mesh (make as many rows as needed for runner length) :

Round 1 :

With metallic gold thread,ch56 (this counts as the base chain for a 14-motif wide runner;adjust multiple of 4+8 for different widths)

Round 2 :

1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 3 ch, *ch6,skip 4 ch,1 sc in next 4 ch;rep from * across to last 4 ch,1 sc in last 4 ch (creates repeating chain arches) (counts vary by width)

Round 3 :

Turn,sl st into first sc to anchor, *ch6,sc into center of next arch (3rd ch of ch6),rep across to end;end with sc into last sc. This row builds the open diamond-spaces that receive motifs

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each sc and sc into each arch center to reinforce the mesh. At the end of row 6 the base mesh should feel even and ready for motif placement

Info :

Blocking tip: lightly mist the mesh and stretch onto blocking board so diamonds are even. Pins at each intersection help register locations for motif joining. Work a sample strip 10 cm long to test spacing before committing to full runner.

Round 7 :

Edging chainwork:ch3 (counts as sc+ch2),skip to next arch,sc in next arch center, *ch2,sc in next arch center;rep across to create small decorative chain between arches (this will later host tiny star connectors)

Info :

When joining motifs to this mesh use the arch centers created in rounds 2-3 as the primary join points. Every motif will be attached at 3 or 4 small chain loops depending on its shape (bell, circle or square).

β€” Small Star Connector (make many) :

Round 1 :

With metallic gold,mr, ch1, 6 sc into ring (6)

Round 2 :

(ch5,sl st into next sc) x 6 to make six tiny picot arms. Fasten off and leave tail for attaching (these little stars sit at intersections of mesh)

Info :

These star connectors form the delicate points visible between motifs. Join them to the mesh and adjacent motif edges using your tapestry needle and a few tacking stitches or by slip-stitching into adjacent chains when joining motifs as you go.

β€” Round Ornament Motif (make many) :

Round 1 :

With chosen ornament color,dial a mr, ch1,6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc,1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc,1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc,1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-7 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

For a raised spiral look work rounds 6-7 in BLO to give a rim. Keep tension tight to avoid gaps between rounds. If you want a sewn hanging loop, leave a 10 cm tail after round 7 to make a small thread loop for attachment.

Round 8 :

Dec round:(3 sc,1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 10 :

Fasten off leaving tail for join. Optional: embroider concentric decorative rings with metallic thread using running stitch through rounds to mimic ornament patterns

Info :

Attach round ornaments to mesh by slip-stitching through 3 evenly-spaced chain-arch points, or join-as-you-go during final mesh row. Keep the ornament slightly domed by gentle blocking.

β€” Bell Motif (make many) :

Round 1 :

With cream thread,mr,ch1,6 sc into mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc,1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc,1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

ch1,turn,sc in next 24 sts working in rows now to shape bell skirt:Row 1:sc across (24)

Round 7 :

Row 2:ch1,turn*(3 sc,dec)* x6 (18)

Round 8 :

Row 3:ch1,turn*(2 sc,dec)* x6 (12)

Round 9 :

Turn,*(1 sc,dec)* x6 (6)

Round 10 :

Work a final round of sc around the outer curved edge:attach to first edge stitch then sc evenly across both sides of bell opening to make a neat tidy rim;approx 30 sc around rim. Fasten off leaving tail for joining. Do not stuff; bells are flat ornaments.

Info :

The bell's skirt is worked by flattening the circle and working short rows to form the flared bell shape. Gently block so the bell flares attractively. Add a tiny picot at the top center to indicate the hanging loop.

β€” Gift Box Motif (make many) :

Round 1 :

With deep red thread,mr,ch1,6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc,1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc,1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

Change to box shape:fold circle flat and work across both thicknesses to create a square-like front. Ch1, turn,sc across 12 stitches on fold edge,sl st to join creating a small rectangle front (approx 12 sts wide)

Round 6 :

Round of sc around rectangle front:sc evenly around the four edges (approx 34 sc). This outlines the box face and forms a flat square ornament

Round 7 :

Bow decoration:with same color or contrast,ch6,sc in 2nd ch from hook and across to form a tiny bow strip;fasten off and stitch to top center of box. Add a vertical line of surface slip-stitch down the center to simulate ribbon.

Info :

These little boxes are intentionally flat and square; press gently and sew to mesh at three corner points to keep alignment. You can add a tiny yarn bow or a knot of metallic thread for shine.

β€” Tiny Heart / Star Accent (make many) :

Round 1 :

With red thread, ch4, sl st to form ring, ch1,6 sc in ring (6)

Round 2 :

*(sc,hdc,dc,hdc,sc) in same st to form a heart lobe;sl st to base to finish heart shape. Fasten off leaving tail to sew

Info :

These tiny hearts and little five-point grapes fill in lattice gaps. They are worked very small and sewn into place at intersections. For star accents use a mr, 5 ch-arms of 5 ch each and join to center with sl st to make a flat star.

β€” Small Leaf Motif (make many) :

Round 1 :

With light green thread,ch6,sc in 2nd ch from hook,hdc,next ch,dc next ch,tr next ch,sl st back along same side to create a pointed leaf;fasten off (leaf measures approx 1 cm)

Info :

Leaves are worked as little elongated motifs with a slip-stitch spine. Use them to fill edge gaps and under-tree accents. Work leaves in several shades for a variegated column effect.

β€” Evergreen Tree Motif (column of trees,make many in three shades) :

Round 1 :

With deep green thread,mr,ch1,6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc,1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc,1 inc) x 6 (24)

Info :

We will convert this small circle into a layered tree by working shell-shaped triangular segments from the circle edge. The circle forms the tree spine and anchor point for layered branches.

Round 5 :

Change to forming first branch tier:ch1, *skip 1 st, (sc, ch3, 3dc, ch3, sc) in next st, skip 1 st;rep around to form small shell points (approx 6 shells)

Round 6 :

Work into ch3 space of shells:sl st into ch3, ch1, *(sc,hdc,dc,hdc,sc) in same ch-space to lengthen shell;sl st to next ch3;rep around to make the tier fuller

Round 7 :

Second tier:attach next color (medium green) at base of first tier via sl st, ch1,*(skip 2 sts, (sc,ch4,4dc,ch4,sc) in next st) x6 (larger shells)

Round 8 :

Work into ch4 spaces:sl st,ch1,*(sc,hdc,dc,tr,dc,hdc,sc) in same space;rep around (6 larger layered branches)

Info :

Each tier is worked outward from the central circle to create layered triangular branch shapes. Block each tier flat to keep triangular form. Alternate shades (dark, medium, light) to create gradual color change down the column.

Round 9 :

Third tier:attach light green at base of second tier,work *(skip 2 sts,(sc,ch5,5dc,ch5,sc) in next st)x6 to form widest tier

Round 10 :

Work into ch5 spaces:sl st,ch1,*(sc,hdc,dc,tr,dtr,dc,hdc,sc) in same ch-space;rep aroundβ€”final shaping for tree silhouette

Round 11 :

Optional trunk:turn motif vertical,with dark brown or deep green ch6,sc back along chain to form a small trunk of approx 6 sc;fasten off

Info :

Make trees in three sizes by adjusting number of shell tiers (2 tiers for small, 3 for medium, 4 tiers for tall). Trees in the runner are stacked in a column with sizes alternating to give a graduated forest look. Do not stuff; trees are flat motifs.

β€” Assembling Motifs Into Strips (join-as-you-go approach) :

Round 1 :

Arrange motifs on workspace matching pattern repeat: column of trees along one edge, then alternating bells, circles and boxes filling grid cells to the right of trees. For each motif placement, identify 3 or 4 arch centers on the gold mesh where you will join.

Round 2 :

Join-as-you-go method:work final round of a motif in gold thread at points where it meets the meshβ€”sl st into an adjacent mesh chain-space, ch2,sl st back into motif to lock connection. Repeat at each join point to attach motif firmly without sewing.

Round 3 :

When motifs touch each other (e.g., bell next to circle), join them together by slip-stitching through both motif edge stitches simultaneously at the point of contact. This reduces need for later sewing and gives cleaner joins.

Info :

Spacing: aim to attach each motif at three evenly spaced chain-arch points in a triangular arrangement for stability. For square motifs like gift boxes use four join points at corners. Use your blocked mesh as a template to ensure uniform spacing across the runner.

Round 4 :

Attach star connectors at every mesh intersection between four motifs using a few tiny whip-stitches or slip-stitches in gold;these stars visually tie motifs together and help keep mesh geometry stable

Round 5 :

Edge motifs:work small leaves and heart accents into edge arches:attach a leaf under each tree tip and a tiny heart between presents for decorative variety

Info :

Work row by row:complete and join motifs in each horizontal line before moving to the next row. This modular approach prevents large sections from flopping and makes checking alignment easier.

β€” Border and Final Scallop (work after all motifs joined) :

Round 1 :

With metallic gold,work one round of sc evenly around the entire runner edge,catching the outermost chain loops and the motif edges to create a neat unified rim (estimate 1 sc per 3 mm of edge;use approx 150-200 sc depending on runner length)

Round 2 :

Scallop round:*(ch3,5 dc in next st,ch3,sl st in next st) repeat around to create shell scallops at frequent intervals. Adjust spacing so scallops land centered over tree tips and bell edges

Round 3 :

Final picots and leaf-edge:in the spaces between scallops work little picot chains (ch5,picot,sl st) and sew small leaves into alternating spaces to mirror interior leaf clusters

Info :

Blocking: after finishing edging, thoroughly block the entire runner. Pin each scallop into a soft foam board so the edge shapes set. Use steam or spray mist lightly to fix shape. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.

Round 4 :

Secure all joins:with a yarn needle, reinforce any join points that feel loose by stitching through adjacent stitches on motif and mesh using matching gold thread. Fasten off and weave in ends deep into work.

β€” Optional Embellishments and Finishing Touches :

Round 1 :

Add metallic embroidery:use fine metallic thread to couch tiny horizontal lines across gift boxes and a halo stitch around ornaments for sparkle

Round 2 :

Attach tiny beads or sequins at bell centers or on ornament faces by sewing through motifs carefully with matching thread;avoid heavy beads that pull the lace out of shape

Info :

Storage note:store flat or gently rolled with tissue to avoid creasing or crushing scallops. If you make multiple runners, stack with acid-free tissue between layers to preserve thread colors and sheen.

Assembly Instructions

  • Block every motif individually before joining to ensure consistent size and shape. Pin motifs to a blocking board, mist lightly and allow to dry completely before joining.
  • Attach head of motif (center circle or top of tree) first to the mesh: align the motif's primary anchor stitches with the mesh arch centers and slip-stitch through both pieces to secure, then proceed to secondary join points.
  • Work join-as-you-go for each motif's final round: when you reach a point that corresponds with the mesh chain space,sl st into the mesh space then back into the motif to lock the join;repeat for each intended anchor point.
  • When motifs meet each other (adjacent ornaments, bells next to presents), join through both motif edges simultaneously with a slip stitch or a small whip-stitch using matching thread for an invisible seam.
  • Add star connectors at mesh intersections before or during joining adjacent motifs;these tiny stars are decorative and add structural stability to the mesh grid.
  • After all motifs are joined, crochet a round of sc around the entire perimeter to tidy raw edges, then work the scallop and picot rounds for the finished border.
  • Reinforce any loose joins by sewing with a tapestry needle and metallic thread at the intersection points;weave ends at least 3 cm into the body of the runner to secure.
  • Final blocking: pin the assembled runner to size and shape on a blocking board, mist lightly and allow to dry in place. This step harmonizes motif spacing and flattens joins for an even finished piece.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers on the mesh base to map motif centers before joining to avoid misplacement and ensure symmetry
  • πŸ’‘Stuffing is not required for motifs in this runner; keep motifs flat and block them instead for uniform height
  • πŸ’‘Work with consistent tension and the same hook for all motifs to ensure matching sizes and neat joins
  • πŸ’‘For join-as-you-go, always test slip-stitching into the mesh on a sample motif first to find the correct placement and tension
  • πŸ’‘When carrying color between motifs, avoid long floats; either fasten off or carry threads along the back and tack down occasionally
  • πŸ’‘Weave in ends as you go rather than leaving many loose ends to hide later β€” this keeps the back tidy and reduces work at the end
  • πŸ’‘If using beads or sequins, attach them after blocking to avoid snagging during assembly
  • πŸ’‘Blocking is essential: pinned motifs and a final pinned runner ensure the lace opens and lies flat

Completing this runner feels like bringing a little holiday forest to your table β€” each tiny tree and ornament stitched and joined into a shimmering gold lattice. The repetitive rhythm of making many small motifs is meditative, and the final blocking reveals the full delicate beauty. This heirloom-style piece is perfect for gifting or adding seasonal charm to your home. πŸ§ΆπŸŽ„βœ¨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Based on the sample and the specified thread and hook, the finished runner will be approximately 90-110 cm long and 18-22 cm wide. Adjust the initial foundation chain and the number of motif rows to change the final length and width.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Using a thicker yarn will proportionally increase motif size and runner dimensions. Use a hook 1-2 sizes smaller than recommended for the yarn to maintain tight stitches for lace structure. You may need to re-calculate the spacing and mesh chain counts.

Do I need to block motifs before joining?

Absolutely. Blocking each motif ensures consistent size and shape, which makes joining easier and the final runner lay flat and even.

How much thread will I need?

Approximately 120g of metallic gold thread for the mesh and joins, 50-60g for each predominant green tone, and 30-40g each for accent colors like cream and red. Totals vary with runner length.

Can I make the runner longer or narrower?

Yes. Change the starting chain length (multiple of 4+8) to alter width and add or remove motif rows to change length. Plan motif placement on a small mock-up before full assembly for proportional results.

What joining method is best?

Join-as-you-go for the motif final round is recommended; it creates tidy joins without additional sewing. For some motifs you may prefer to block and then sew with small whip-stitches for precision.

Can I machine wash this runner?

Hand wash only in cool water with mild soap. Avoid wringing; press flat to remove water and re-block while damp. Do not tumble dry.

How to prevent motifs from curling after joining?

Consistent blocking, even tension, and reinforcing joins with a few hidden stitches will prevent curling. Finish with a final blocking of the entire runner pinned to shape.