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Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern

Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern

This pattern recreates a beautiful lavender butterfly granny square with layered texture: a central floral medallion, delicate chain lace, small daisy-like clusters, a raised butterfly applique, and a scalloped lavender border. The color palette uses soft cream, two shades of lavender, and a deep plum for the butterfly body and antennae. The square works beautifully as a standalone coaster or joined into a throw or bedspread.

Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The instructions are modular: make the base square first, then crochet and attach the butterfly wings and body before finishing with a scallop edge. The design relies on puff clusters and shell stitches to build depth and softness.

Why You'll Love This Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern

I love how the raised butterfly poppy adds a charming, almost sculptural quality to a traditional granny square. I also enjoy the subtle color transitions from cream to light lavender and deeper plum—it's soft, romantic, and surprisingly versatile for home décor. The stitch textures create a satisfying tactile piece that's fun to make and beautiful to display.

Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how adaptable this lavender butterfly square is—I often change the color scheme to match a room: try mint and cream for a fresh look or dusty rose and beige for something vintage. You can also make the butterfly in bright contrasting hues for a whimsical, modern twist.

I sometimes simplify the wings into a single crochet applique for faster making when producing many squares, or intensify the layering by adding an extra round of puffs for a dramatic 3D effect. You can scale the whole square up by using bulkier yarn and a larger hook for cushions, or down with fingering weight for delicate coasters.

For blankets, I like alternating squares with plain lace granny squares to make the butterflies pop; for a single feature piece, surround the butterfly square with two rounds of contrasting color to frame it. Have fun experimenting with beads, embroidered veins on the wings, or metallic thread in the scallops for shimmer.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs and asymmetry; always mark your beginning stitch of each round. ✗ Pulling puff clusters too tight reduces their loft and makes the fabric dense; keep consistent tension and let puffs expand slightly. ✗ Waiting to stuff or shape the butterfly wings until after attachment makes shaping difficult; pre-shape wings lightly while crocheting. ✗ Not changing colors smoothly creates visible knots; carry yarn neatly on the wrong side or cut and weave in ends for clean joins. ✗ Using a hook that is too large can cause the lace to sag and reveal stuffing if assembled into cushions; use recommended hook size for crisp texture. ✗ Forgetting to block the finished square will leave points and scallops uneven; wet-block or steam-block before final joining for best results.

Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern

Create a delicate lavender-and-cream granny square featuring a raised 3D butterfly applique and scalloped border. This square combines textured puff clusters, small floral motifs and a layered butterfly to produce a romantic, vintage-inspired motif. Perfect as a single coaster, a set for a blanket, or joined into a thoughtful home decor project. The pattern shows step-by-step rounds for the motif, butterfly wings, body and finishing touches.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lavender Butterfly Granny Square Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (#3), approximately 120-160g in light lavender (main petals and border)
  • 02
    DK weight cotton, approximately 80-100g in cream/ivory (background lacy rounds and connectors)
  • 03
    DK weight cotton, approximately 30-50g in deep plum/purple (butterfly body and small motif centers)
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-15g each) in pale lilac and medium lavender for wing shading and tiny flower details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (use 3.25mm if you want tighter fabric)
  • 02
    3.0mm (C) hook for delicate edges and antennae coils (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Small pair of sharp scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (recommended at least 4)
  • 06
    Blocking pins and blocking mat
  • 07
    Optional: thin florist wire or pipe cleaner for antennae
  • 08
    Optional: fabric glue to secure tiny beads or centers
  • 09
    Optional: small round beads (2mm) for flower centers

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Center Flower Medallion :

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring. Ch3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into ring. Join with sl st to top of ch3 to close. (12)

Round 2 :

Ch3, dc in same st, *ch2, 2 dc in next st; rep from * around to create 6 petal-like clusters separated by ch2. Join with sl st to top of ch3. (6 clusters + 6 ch2 sps)

Info :

Keep your tension relaxed on this round: it forms the flower base. If you prefer a firmer center, use a slightly smaller hook for this round only.

Round 3 :

Sl st into first ch2 sp, ch3 (counts as dc), work 3 dc in same ch2 sp, *ch1, (3 dc in next ch2 sp); rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of ch3. (6 clusters of 3 dc, 6 ch1 sps)

Round 4 :

Change to pale lilac (Info: carry previous color behind or fasten off). Sl st into center of first 3-dc cluster, ch1, sc into same st, *ch3, sc into center of next 3-dc cluster; rep from * around to make 6 ch3 loops. Join with sl st. (6 sc, 6 ch3 sps)

Round 5 :

Into each ch3 loop: work (ch2, puff, ch1, puff, ch2). Puff = yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop 3 times (4 tall loops), yarn over and pull through all loops, ch1 to secure. Repeat in every ch3 sp. Join with sl st to base. (6 puff-pairs creating petal clusters)

Info :

Puff stitch technique: keep the same number of loops for every puff (I use 4 wraps for a medium puff). After making each puff, tug gently to even height and keep a consistent stitch gauge.

Round 6 :

Change to cream. Working around puff petals, ch1, sc in top of base between petals, *ch4, sc between next two petals; rep from * around to create airy lacy spaces. Join with sl st. (6 sc + 6 ch4 sps)

Round 7 :

Into each ch4 space: (sc, ch3, sc) to form small picot arches; into each sc between petals: 1 sc. Join with sl st. This creates a small floral medallion foundation. (12 small arches)

Round 8 :

Change to light lavender. Work (ch3, 4 dc, ch3, sl st) around each small arch to form a slightly larger petal shell. Between shells work sl st into next base sc. Join. (6 larger shells)

Info :

After Round 8, place a stitch marker at the junction that will become the top edge of the butterfly center; this will help with later centering of the wings.

— Small Floral Motifs & Lace Connectors :

Round 1 :

From the outside of the center medallion, ch1, sc around the base to even out the circumference for joining. Work evenly until you reach a total of 36 sc around the medallion base. Join with sl st. (36)

Round 2 :

Ch3 (counts as dc), *sk 1 st, (dc, ch2, dc) in next st (creates small cluster arch), sk 1, dc in next; rep around. Join to top of ch3. This creates 12 ch2 arches. (36 dc total including ch3)

Round 3 :

Change to cream. Into each ch2 arch: (sc, ch4, sc) to make open lace loops. Between arches sc in the single dc from previous round. Join. (12 ch4 sps, 24 sc)

Info :

These lace loops will later host small daisy clusters and corner transition points. Keep each ch4 loop consistent in height for an even square shaping later.

Round 4 :

Working in FLO of the previous round (Info: working in FLO makes a subtle ridge), sc around with *ch2, sc in center of next ch4 loop; rep around so you have 12 ch2 sps interspersed with sc. Join. (24 sc, 12 ch2 sps)

Round 5 :

Change to medium lavender. Into each ch2 sp: make a small daisy cluster — (yarn over twice, insert in ch2 sp, yarn over, pull up loop 4 times, yarn over and pull through all loops) forming a tiny puff; ch1, sl st into same sp, then ch2 and sl st into the adjacent sc to secure. Repeat around to form 12 raised daisies. Join. (12 small puffs)

Info :

Sew small 2mm bead or a tiny contrasting center with cream yarn into each daisy center now if you prefer an embellished look. Secure beads before joining with more rounds.

Round 6 :

Ch1, sc around entire motif working (2 sc) at points where you want to stabilize the circle into a soft hexagon; aim for 48 sc total. Join with sl st. (48)

— First Square Shaping & Corner Preparation :

Round 1 :

Change to cream. Ch3, (2 dc) into same st, *skip 6 sts, in next st make (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) to create a corner; repeat across creating four corner shells. Between corners work groups of 6 dc or dc clusters to make sides. Join to top of ch3. (Count: 4 corner shells (4*(4 dc + ch2)) + side clusters totalling approximate 68 dc)

Info :

This is the pivotal round that begins turning your circular medallion into a square. Mark each corner shell with a removable stitch marker so you can reference it in future rounds.

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in each st and into ch2 spaces work (sc, ch3, sc) to enlarge corner arches. Work around with even sc on sides aiming for a count of 80 sc. Join. (80)

Round 3 :

Change to light lavender. In each side between corners: (ch3, shell of 5 dc in same sp, ch3) to create side scallops; in corners work (shell of 7 dc, ch4, 7 dc) to make pronounced corners. Join. (shell counts vary per side; rough outer count 110 dc equivalent)

Info :

If your square looks more round than square, increase corner chain spaces (ch4→ch5) to pull out the corners more aggressively. Conversely reduce corner chains if corners are pointy.

— Butterfly Body (Applique) :

Round 1 :

Using deep plum yarn. Ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (5 sc). Turn—this forms the butterfly body foundation. (5)

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc across in BLO for a defined ridge (5). Fold the strip in half lengthwise and sew a running stitch down the center to create a tuck; this forms a slightly rounded thorax. Do not fasten off. (5)

Round 3 :

Ch1, sc around the narrow tube evenly working 2 sc in end stitches to round the top and bottom caps. Work 3 rounds of sc around the tube to create a stout segmented look—approx 18 sc per round. Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing to square. (approx 18 per round)

Info :

Optional: lightly stuff the body with a tiny bit of fiberfill for a plump appearance before final stitching. Keep stuffing minimal so the applique sits flat on the square.

— Butterfly Wings (Make 2 mirrored pairs: Upper Wings & Lower Wings) :

Upper Wing - Round 1 :

Using light lavender. Make a magic ring. Ch3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into ring. Join with sl st. (12)

Upper Wing - Round 2 :

Ch3, dc in same st, *ch2, 2 dc in next st; rep around to make 6 clusters (6 ch2 sps). Join. (6 clusters)

Upper Wing - Round 3 :

Sl st into first ch2 sp, ch1, sc, ch3, (puff, ch1, puff) into same ch2 sp to start a raised petal, *skip to next ch2 sp and repeat (sc, ch3, puff-pair). Join. (6 puff-pairs)

Upper Wing - Round 4 :

Change to medium lavender. Working into puff loops, ch2, (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in each puff cluster to form a fan; between fans, sl st into the base sc. Join. (6 fans)

Upper Wing - Round 5 :

Ch1, sc around entire wing working 2 sc in each fan peak and 1 sc in valley; aim for 48 sc total. Join. (48)

Upper Wing - Round 6 :

Ch2 (counts as hdc), *hdc in next 7 sts, (hdc, ch3, hdc) in wing tip to shape curve; rep across. Join. (approx 56 hdc)

Upper Wing - Round 7 :

Change to light lavender. Work rippled picot edging: *(3 dc, picot, 3 dc) in tip arches, sc along inner edge to create a neat border. Join. (edge formed)

Info :

Make two identical upper wings then mirror one when attaching. Block wings flat over a rounded template to shape the curve before sewing.

Lower Wing - Round 1 :

Using light lavender. Make a magic ring, ch3, 9 dc into ring. Join. (10)

Lower Wing - Round 2 :

Ch3, (2 dc) same st, *ch2, 2 dc in next st; rep around to form 5 clusters separated by ch2. Join. (5 clusters)

Lower Wing - Round 3 :

Sl st into ch2 sp, ch1, sc, ch3, (puff, ch1, puff) into ch2 sp; repeat to make 5 puff-pair lobes. Join. (5 puff-pairs)

Lower Wing - Round 4 :

Change to medium lavender. Into each puff cluster work (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) to form a robust lower fan. Join. (5 fans)

Lower Wing - Round 5 :

Ch1, sc around wing, working 2 sc in fan peaks for pronounced curvature. Aim for 36 sc. Join. (36)

Lower Wing - Round 6 :

Finish with hdc and small scallop: *(3 hdc, picot) across edge, sc along inner edge. Join. (edge complete)

Info :

For shading effect, on the last round slip-stitch with contrasting light lavender in select loops to mimic the layered two-tone seen in the sample. Pick 6-8 evenly spaced points along the wing.

Upper Wing - Rounds 8-20 (Refinement) :

Work 12 more shaping rounds across the upper wing to enlarge and sculpt the shape: alternate 2 rounds of even hdc (maintain counts 56-60), 1 round of (hdc, inc, hdc, inc) to lengthen tips, and 1 decorative round of surface slip-stitch shading. After Round 20 block and shape. (final upper wing counts approx 64-72 st circumference)

Lower Wing - Rounds 7-18 (Refinement) :

Work 12 more shaping rounds across lower wing: alternate sc and hdc rounds to firm the edge, add an increase row at the outer curve (inc every 8 sts) to create the rounded lower profile. Finish with a gentle scalloped edge round. (final lower wing counts approx 44-50)

Info :

These prolonged shaping rounds let you build the layered look of the butterfly wings. Use pins to hold each wing to a shaping board while damp-stretching to open petals slightly.

— Attaching Butterfly to Square :

Round 1 :

Position the deeply colored body along the center vertical axis of the square on top of the medallion. Pin body centered between the top and bottom corner markers. Sew body in place using long tail with mattress stitch through center of body and through the square base, ensuring it is firmly anchored. (Body attached)

Round 2 :

Arrange the upper wings above the middle of the body overlapping slightly; place lower wings below the upper wings. Pin each wing, checking symmetry. Sew wings along the inner edge onto the square and secure to the body tail as well. Use small ladder stitches spaced 3-4 mm apart. (Wings attached)

Info :

When sewing wings, try to catch only the inner edge loops on the wing and the decorative lace loops on the square to avoid showing stitches on the right side. Use matching yarn for invisible joins.

Round 3 :

With deep plum, embroider a segmented center on the butterfly body by working horizontal sl st bands across the body every 2-3 rows to mimic the compressed thorax/ridge effect. Knot and weave ends neatly at the back. (Embroidered ridges complete)

Round 4 :

Create antennae: using a 3.0mm hook and deep plum yarn, ch20, fold in half and single crochet back to create a cord, leaving a 5 cm tail for insertion. Insert antenna ends through the head of body, secure with a knot and a dab of glue if desired. Curve them gently. (2 antennae)

Info :

Optional: insert a short piece of florist wire inside the antenna cord before final stuffing/closing to make antennae poseable. Fold wire ends so they are not sharp before securing.

— Corner Motifs & Small Round Flowers :

Round 1 :

Between the major corners, there are four small floral motifs placed at center of each side. To make one small flower: using deep plum, make mr, ch2, 8 dc in ring. (8)

Round 2 :

Change to cream. Sl st into top of first dc, ch1, sc in same st, *ch3, sc in next dc; rep around to create 8 ch3 loops. Join. (8)

Round 3 :

Change to medium lavender. Into each ch3 loop work (puff, ch1, sl st) to form raised petals. Join. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing onto square in designated side centers. (8 small puffs)

Info :

Sew these small flowers into the ch4 lace spaces created earlier; place one flower centered along each side between corner shells so they sit within the lace framework.

— Outer Scallop Border (Rounds 1-12) :

Round 1 :

Change to light lavender. Sc evenly around square working (3 sc) in corner points to maintain shape; aim for 120 sc. Join. (120)

Round 2 :

Ch3, *sk 2, (5 dc in next st) to create shell, sk 2, sc in next; rep around to create scallop clusters. At corners work a larger shell of 7 dc. Join. (approx 24 shells)

Round 3 :

Ch1, sc in each st and work (sc, ch3, sc) into each shell center to make rounded loops. Join. (stabilizes shells)

Info :

If your scallops look uneven, block now: wet-block and pin each scallop to the same radius so the border looks symmetrical after finishing.

Round 4 :

Switch to medium lavender for a decorative band: work 1 sc in each st BLO for a neat ridge around the square. Join. (120)

Round 5 :

Ch2, (hdc, hdc, ch1) into each scallop valley, and (3 hdc) into each scallop peak; this gives a soft raised edge. Join. (approx 160 hdc)

Round 6 :

Change to light lavender. Work final scalloped picot round: *5 dc in shell peak, sl st into base, picot into top of shell (ch3 sl st into first ch), repeat for each shell. Join. (decorative edge complete)

Round 7 :

Finish by weaving in all ends from back; use tapestry needle to hide tails inside nearest shells and secure with a few whip stitches. Block square to final measurements—target approx 17-19 cm (6.5-7.5 in) square depending on yarn and tension. (Complete)

Info :

Final blocking: dampen lightly and pin to square template, allow to dry overnight. This opens lacy connectors and sets the scalloped edges for clean joins if making a blanket.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin the butterfly body centered on the medallion before sewing to ensure symmetrical placement; sew with mattress stitch through the body center and underlying rounds 4-6 of the medallion.
  • Attach upper and lower wings by sewing the inner wing edges into the same area where the body is secured; use small, neat whip stitches catching only inner loops for an invisible join.
  • Sew the four small floral motifs into the designated ch4 lace spaces along each side; use matching cream yarn and small running stitches so centers sit slightly raised.
  • Weave in all tails on the wrong side of the square, then block the square pinned to a template for at least 12 hours to set the lace and scallops.
  • If joining multiple squares into a blanket, use a flat join or join-as-you-go method along the outermost cream rounds so the butterfly remains unobstructed; leave one outer border round free for a final cohesive edging.
  • Secure antennae by threading them through the body base from the back and knotting ends inside the square. Use a dab of glue at the knot if making a gift for children to prevent loosening.
  • When joining squares, align motifs so butterfly orientation alternates for a balanced overall design; pin each square before stitching with mattress stitch or slip-stitch join.
  • Add optional beads to the small daisies' centers using a short tail and needle; knot and secure on the wrong side and dab with glue for extra security.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • 💡Stuff small applique body very lightly; the piece should lie flat when attached—overstuffing causes bulging and interferes with joins.
  • 💡When working puff stitches, maintain the same number of loop pulls for each puff to keep an even texture across petals and wings.
  • 💡Carry color changes inside the wrong side neatly or cut and weave ends to avoid bulky joins showing through lacy rounds.
  • 💡Block each completed square before joining into an afghan for a uniform look; pin scallops and corners to equal measurements.
  • 💡Sew wings to the square catching inner loops only to preserve the crisp right-side appearance; avoid stitching through puffs if you want them to remain raised.
  • 💡Work with a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label suggests if you want tighter puffs and less open lace, or larger if you want a more airy effect.
  • 💡Keep a small pair of sharp scissors and a yarn needle close for fast clean-up of tails as you switch colors for the butterfly shading.

This lavender butterfly granny square is a joy to finish—every scallop, puff and embroidered ridge comes together into a tiny work of art. The raised butterfly adds personality while the soft lavender palette keeps it elegant and warm. Whether you make one as a keepsake or dozens for a blanket, each square invites slow, happy stitching. 🧶🦋 Enjoy the blocking, the joining, and the wonderful satisfaction of creating something beautiful by hand!

You ask,

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this square?

Using DK cotton and a 3.5mm hook, the finished square measures approximately 17-19 cm (6.5-7.5 in). Gauge and yarn weight will change the final size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. A lighter yarn will produce a smaller, more delicate square while a heavier DK/aran will make it larger and sturdier. Adjust hook size accordingly to keep texture and definition.

Do I need to block the square?

Absolutely—blocking evens stitches, opens up lace spaces, and shapes scallops and wings. Wet-block or steam-block and pin to a template for best results.

Can I make the butterfly removable?

Yes—sew the butterfly wings/body to the square with a few single crochet stitches or removable safety stitches so you can unfasten and launder separately if desired.

How much yarn will I need for a blanket made from these squares?

Estimate roughly 110-140g per square in main and background colors when using DK cotton; for a throw (6x6 squares) you would need approximately 4-6 kilograms total depending on border and join choices.

Can I machine wash this?

If you use cotton yarn and secure beads and antennae safely, you can machine wash on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag, but hand-washing and flat drying is recommended to preserve shape and blocking.

What's the best way to join multiple squares?

Join-as-you-go or mattress stitch give neat joins. I recommend joining through the outer cream rounds so the raised butterflies remain unobstructed and the seam lies pleasantly on the wrong side.

How do I prevent puff stitches from flattening?

Avoid over-tugging puffs when you make them, and block gently. If puffs flatten after handling, spritz lightly with water and reshape while pinned to the desired height.