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Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern

Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern
4.9★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.6K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Whimsical Buddy

Playful characters full of personality, designed to spark imagination and become cherished playtime favorites.

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About This Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern guides you through making a small-to-medium sized amigurumi dragon with a plump body, large head, and expressive features. The dragon is worked mainly in single crochet with straightforward shaping, color accents on the belly and wing membrane, and darker purple on horns, wing ribs, and claws. The finished piece has a soft, rounded look with structured wings and a curved, spike-detailed tail.

Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Techniques used include magic ring start, increases and decreases, front/back loop work for decorative ridges, and neat sewing for assembly. Plenty of Info sections help with eye placement, stuffing, and finishing so you get a neat, professional result.

Why You'll Love This Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern

I love how this pattern balances adorable proportions with small sculpted details—those ridged horns and the ribbed wing look make the character pop. I also appreciate clear round-by-round shaping so assembling the head, body, and tail feels satisfying. The color contrast between purple and lime-green gives this dragon personality and makes it a joyful project I enjoyed imagining and writing.

Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved imagining how the ribs on the wings and the tiny claws would look in contrasting darker purple—that small contrast makes the whole piece pop. You can swap the lime green for a soft cream or pastel blue to create a completely different personality.

I often change eye size to alter expression: try 10mm eyes for a slightly more delicate face, or 14mm for an even more cartoonish, oversized look. If you prefer a poseable figure, add thin wire through the wing bones and arms to bend them into expressive poses.

For a seasonal twist, swap colors for autumnal oranges and deep reds and add tiny embroidered heart or star motifs on the belly for personalization. The pattern is very forgiving: adjust lengths of tail, limbs, or number of spikes so your dragon matches your creative vision.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project ✗ Not stuffing gradually as you work causes difficulty reaching narrow openings later; stuff sections progressively for best shaping control ✗ Placing safety eyes too low or too close together changes expression drastically; measure and pin before securing permanently ✗ Sewing limbs without pinning can produce uneven placement; always pin and check symmetry before final stitching ✗ Carrying yarn across open spaces on wings will create lumps; weave or fasten off and sew tails in instead of carrying long floats ✗ Using too-large hook for amigurumi results in visible stuffing; use a hook smaller than yarn label suggests for tight fabric

Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern

Create a cuddly purple demon dragon with contrasting lime-green belly, bat-style wings, curled tail, and dark purple horns. This charming amigurumi features big glossy safety eyes, tiny claws, decorative spikes down the tail, and ribbed wing details. The pattern is carefully written with clear round-by-round instructions, helpful Info tips, and assembly guidance to recreate the plush character shown.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Purple Demon Dragon with Bat Wings and Green Belly Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 120-140g in main purple (medium purple shown)
  • 02
    50-60g in darker purple (accent for horns, claws, wing ribs, spike tips)
  • 03
    60-80g in lime green for belly and wing membrane
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-15g) of black for nostril/eyebrow embroidery and white for tiny eye highlights if needed

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (use slightly smaller if your stitches are loose)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for smaller details and tighter pieces (optional)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 12mm black (or 10mm if you prefer smaller eyes)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4-6)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for assembly
  • 09
    Optional: thin floral wire or pipe cleaners for poseable wings/limbs
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for added security of safety eyes or small knots

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Info :

Switch to main purple yarn if you began with the same. Work in continuous spiral for smooth amigurumi surface. Place a stitch marker at the start of Round 1 and move it each round.

Round 11-14 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Info :

Insert 12mm safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14, about 10-12 stitches apart center-to-center for the wide, cute look shown. Pin eyes and check placement before locking washers. For a slightly sleepy look place eyes one round lower.

Round 15-18 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Round 19 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 20 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Info :

Begin stuffing head firmly now. Use small bits of fiberfill and work them into contours to keep the face smooth. Stuff around eyes evenly so they sit flush with the fabric.

Round 21 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 22 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 23 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 24 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

Use stuffing to maintain round facial shape. Don't overstuff the snout area to allow a slight protuberance for the nose and mouth. This is a good point to embroider nostrils with black yarn: use a short stitch or single short satin stitch between rounds 14-16 centered on the nose area.

Round 25 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 26 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 27 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing head to body later. Finish stuffing completely and close opening using a yarn needle and ladder stitch for a neat finish. Make sure the top of the head remains rounded and not flat when closed.

Round 28 :

Optional small bump: Pick up yarn at top center and make 6 sc in a short magic ring for a small crest bump. FO and leave tail for sewing.

Info :

We will sew horns and small ears separately to control position precisely. Mark horn positions with pins before stitching: place them symmetrically above the eyes, slightly to the back of the head curve.

— Horn (Make 2, darker purple) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

Work 6 rounds even 1 sc in each st (24) — rounds 5-10

Round 11 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 12 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 13 :

Dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Work horns in spiral (no joining) to get a more organic ridged look. Stuff lightly—they should be firm but not overly dense so they taper naturally. Sew the base of each horn securely to the head in the positions you pinned earlier.

— Small Ear/Side Horns (Make 2, main purple) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

Work 2 rounds even (18)

Round 5 :

Shape edge with 1 sc in next 8 sts, FO leaving tail for sewing; flatten slightly to create triangular ear

Info :

Sew these to the sides of the head slightly behind and above the eyes. Slightly curve them forward when stitching to mimic the look in the image.

— Body :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-12 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Info :

Change to lime green yarn at the front center for belly panels later; for now continue in main purple and we will add belly as a separate oval panel to sew on for neat color change.

Round 13 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 14-18 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

Begin stuffing body lightly from the bottom up around round 16. Leave top opening wide enough to insert neck and sew head later. Stuff firmly enough to keep upright but not rock-hard to maintain softness.

Round 19 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 20 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 21 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st (18) — form neck tube

Round 23-26 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Do not close body now. We will leave an opening at the top to sew the head on: stop at the last round and leave long tail for sewing. If you prefer, create a short neck by decreasing 1-2 rounds to 14 sts before fastening off.

— Belly Panel (Lime Green) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-9 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Make a slightly elongated oval by working a few additional rows even (30 sts) and then shaping edges by decreasing 6 sts across the short ends to produce an oval. This panel is sewn to the front center of the body from the chin down to hip area.

Round 10 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st FO leaving long tail for sewing to body

Info :

Block or steam gently if your panel is slightly warped before sewing. Center it on the front of the body and baste with pins before sewing for even placement.

— Arm (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-6 :

1 sc in each st (18) — palm/hand base

Info :

Shape claws by adding darker purple tips later. Stuff the palm fairly firm, then continue to the wrist and arm tubular shape.

Round 7 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 8-13 :

1 sc in each st (12) — lower arm

Round 14 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) — upper arm increase

Round 15-18 :

1 sc in each st (18) — upper arm shaping

Round 19 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12) — shoulder taper

Round 20 :

1 sc in each st (12) FO leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Stuff hands firmly and arms lightly to keep elbows soft. Leave longer tail so you can sew the arms into the body securely across several rounds to avoid floppy arms.

— Hand Claws (Make 6 small tips for each hand with darker purple) :

Round 1 :

3 sc in magic ring (3)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (6)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st FO leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew three claw tips to the end of each palm spaced evenly. Use darker purple to match the image and stitch securely through the palm stitches.

— Leg (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5-8 :

1 sc in each st (24) — foot shaping

Round 9 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 10-14 :

1 sc in each st (18) — lower leg

Round 15 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 16-20 :

1 sc in each st (12) — upper leg, fill firmly

Round 21 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18) — join seam area for hip

Round 22 :

1 sc in each st FO leaving long tail for sewing to body

Info :

Stuff feet very firmly so the dragon sits upright. When sewing to the body, position legs slightly forward of center so the character sits like the pictured pose.

— Tail :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4-20 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work length for long tapered tail

Round 21 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 22-26 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 27 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4 then dec x 2 to taper (6)

Round 28 :

FO leaving long tail for sewing

Info :

Sew small spikes (see next section) along the top of the tail at even intervals. Slightly curve the tail when stuffing by packing more fiberfill near the base and less toward the tip.

— Tail Spikes (Make 8-10, darker purple) :

Round 1 :

4 sc in magic ring (4)

Round 2 :

Inc around to 8 sts (8)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st FO leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew spikes evenly spaced along top of tail; alternate sizes (some slightly smaller) to mimic the natural pattern pictured. Use pins to arrange before sewing.

— Wing Membrane (Make 2, lime green) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-8 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 9 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 10 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 11-14 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Shape wing membrane to a roughly triangular curved shape by adding a few slip stitch edging rounds and selectively decreasing on one side if you want a pointed tip. Make mirror images for left and right side. Block flat and pin to dry if you want a crisp membrane.

Round 15 :

Sl st around edge to neaten FO leaving long tail for sewing

— Wing Bone Ribs (Make 4-6 per wing in darker purple) :

Round 1 :

Ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (20)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, turn, 1 sc across (20)

Round 3-4 :

Repeat 1 sc across to create a flat rib. FO leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew ribs across the wing membrane in evenly spaced diagonal lines from the base to the outer edge to create the bat-wing ribbed effect. Slightly curve ribs while sewing to shape the final wing contour.

Round 5 :

Optional: use a chain and single crochet backbone to create a thicker bone edge and wrap around the wing perimeter.

— Wing Edge & Assembly :

Round 1 :

Sew the membrane to a long narrow wing edge tube (ch 3 and join, sc in rounds to form tube length) matching image proportions and sew to body at shoulder area

Info :

Attach the wing to the back just below the neck joint and slightly behind the arm seam. Use small, invisible stitches and secure the inner wing edge to the inside of the body for a clean look. Consider inserting a thin wire into the wing edge tube before sewing to make wings poseable.

— Back Spikes (Make 6 small bumps, darker purple) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

(Inc, 1 sc) x 3 (9)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st FO leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Sew these along the spine from base of neck toward tail. Alternate spacing to follow photograph; larger spikes near the base and smaller near the tail tip will look natural.

— Assembly Instructions & Final Details :

Info :

Weave in all loose ends but leave enough tail yarn from major parts (head, arms, legs, tail) for secure sewing attachments. Use matching yarn for joining to make seams less visible.

Round 1 :

Sew belly panel to the front of body from neck to hips. Start at top and use whip stitch or ladder stitch to hide seam (see assembly section below)

Round 2 :

Sew head to body at neck opening by aligning center-front (chin) with center of belly panel; stitch evenly around neck until secure and smooth

Round 3 :

Attach arms symmetrically at body rounds 12-14 area or where shoulders appear natural when pinned

Round 4 :

Sew legs to bottom of body; ensure the feet are level so the toy sits stable

Round 5 :

Sew tail to lower back center and attach spikes along top; shape tail curve by adding more stuffing at base

Info :

When sewing wings, attach inner wing edge to the back across three to five stitches for strength and use extra reinforcement stitches where movement will stress the seam.

Round 6 :

Embroider small nostrils and a smile with black yarn. Add tiny white yarn stitch on each safety eye for a catchlight if desired

Info :

Brush surface lightly with a soft brush or steam gently for a polished finish. Add small blush with fabric-safe chalk for extra character if desired.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to body by inserting the neck portion into the body opening. Pin in place first, then sew securely using ladder stitch all around, ensuring even attachment and matching the chin to the center of the belly panel.
  • Position arms on sides of body at rounds 12-14 (measured from bottom) for a natural sitting pose. Sew through both arm and body using whip stitch or mattress stitch for an invisible seam, spend extra stitches through shoulder area for durability.
  • Attach legs to the bottom of the body at the last two rounds of body base, spacing them evenly about 6-8 stitches apart. Sew firmly through several stitches on both the leg and body to support the toy's weight when sitting.
  • Sew ears to top sides of head between rounds 8-10, spacing them roughly 10 stitches apart and angling them slightly forward. Sew horns to the top centered slightly behind the ears.
  • Attach wings to the back at shoulder level (just below the neck). Pin wings in place and sew through inner edge and body loops with many small stitches; reinforce with extra stitches at the base of the wing.
  • Sew tail to back center at lower body opening and secure the base with many passes. Sew spikes individually along the back and tail using the tails from each spike piece and reinforce each with a couple of extra stitches.
  • Sew claws to the ends of arms and feet using darker purple yarn; ensure each claw is attached firmly through the palm/foot fabric and hidden stitches.
  • Secure all loose ends by weaving them through several stitches and trimming close to the fabric. Optionally add a dab of clear fabric glue to the knots and safety eye washers for extra security.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once washers are locked
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches
  • 💡Keep a row counter or notepad to track rounds, especially in long even-stitch sections

This adorable purple demon dragon brings together sculpted shaping and cute detailing to create a lovable handmade friend. From its curved horns to ribbed wings and lime-green belly, every stitch adds personality and charm. The steps guide you through a satisfying multi-part assembly to produce a durable, huggable toy you'll adore. 🐉🧶 Enjoy every stitch and share your finished dragon with pride! ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified worsted yarn and a 3.5mm hook, the finished dragon will measure approximately 10-12 inches tall when seated. Using different yarn weights will proportionally change the final size.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Thicker yarn will increase size and require larger safety eyes.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully. Safety eyes give a glossy professional look while embroidered eyes are safer for small children and allow more expression customization.

How much stuffing will I need?

For this size project, approximately 75-100 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient. Stuff firmly but not overly tight to retain softness while holding shape.

Can I make the arms and wings poseable?

Absolutely. Insert wire (floral wire or thin gauge craft wire) into limbs or along wing edges before stuffing. Ensure wire ends are wrapped and safely secured to prevent poking through fabric.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it's best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Compensating later can create uneven shapes. Use a stitch marker at the start of each round to avoid mistakes.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension using a slightly smaller hook than the yarn label suggests. Add stuffing in small amounts and press evenly into corners and tight areas to avoid lumps.

Can I customize colors and details?

Definitely! Use any color combinations you like, add accessories, or adjust proportions to make the dragon unique. The pattern structure is forgiving for personal modifications.