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Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern

Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern
4.1★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🎩

Stylish Touch ✨

An elegant witch hat with spiral tip and ruffled brim that elevates Halloween decor and costumes with handcrafted charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern

This pattern recreates a decorative witch hat with alternating black and purple stripes, a tall curled tip, and a dramatic ruffled brim edged in black. The crown is worked in continuous rounds for a smooth spiral, with deliberate increases and decreases to create the sweeping cone shape. The ruffled brim is built with increasing rounds and a scalloped final edge for that wavy silhouette. A crocheted silver buckle is worked separately and sewn onto a black band around the base of the crown.

Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The hat is designed to be free-standing with light internal shaping; optional wire can be added to the tip for extra poseability. Color changes are frequent to recreate the striped motif, and Info sections guide you through stuffing, shaping, and finishing.

Why You'll Love This Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern

I love this pattern because the tall spiraled tip and the bold stripe contrast make it playful and dramatic at the same time. The ruffled brim gives it a whimsical silhouette that looks great on a shelf or as part of a costume. I also appreciate how forgiving the construction is—small adjustments in round counts or yarn weight let you personalize the size and shape easily.

Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern step 1 - construction progress Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved making this pattern because the structure offers so many ways to personalize the final look — change the color stripes, adjust the brim depth, or make the spiral curl tighter or looser. The basic shell is forgiving and lets me experiment with decorative edges and buckle styles.

To customize, try a metallic gold buckle instead of silver, or make the brim more subtle by skipping the later increase rounds. If you want a wearable hat for a child, reduce the crown base rounds and stop increasing earlier. For a more dramatic decoration, add more increase rounds to the brim and make larger scallops.

I also enjoy adding small extras like a crocheted spider, star-shaped appliques, or a velvet ribbon sewn under the band. These little touches make each hat unique and perfect for gifting or seasonal decorating.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when working continuous rounds causes misaligned spiral stripes and uneven shaping; use a marker at the first stitch of each round. ✗ Switching colors without securing tails creates gaps and loose ends; weave in each color change or carry the yarn inside the work for neat stripes. ✗ Stuffing too tightly in the cone tip makes the curl stiff and hard to form; stuff lightly and shape gradually for a natural spiral. ✗ Forgetting to count increases on brim rounds results in a flat or overly ruffled brim; write down increase totals each round for accuracy. ✗ Not checking gauge can produce a hat that's too large or too small; make a small gauge swatch and adjust hook size as needed. ✗ Sewing the band and buckle too tightly can warp the base of the crown; pin pieces in place before stitching to ensure even positioning.

Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern

A whimsical spiraled witch hat worked in bold purple and black stripes with a dramatic ruffled brim and a decorative silver buckle. The hat has a tall curled tip that spirals into a tight corkscrew, a structured crown with alternating stripes, and a wide wavy brim that keeps its shape. Made in worsted-weight yarn, this pattern includes detailed round-by-round instructions and assembly notes to recreate the exact look and structure shown in the photos.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Spiraled Witch Hat with Ruffled Brim Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 150-180g in purple (main purple shown)
  • 02
    120-140g in black for alternating stripes and brim edging
  • 03
    20-30g in silver or light gray for buckle detail
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-20g) of scrap yarn in matching colors for joining and sewing

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work (adjust if you crochet tight or loose)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for tighter details (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 4) to mark round starts and key placement
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing for shaping the cone tip and stabilizing crown (light amount)
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Pins for assembly and positioning pieces
  • 08
    Optional: thin floral wire or pipe cleaner for poseable tip
  • 09
    Optional: fabric glue for securing buckle if desired

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Crown (base cone) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

These first eight rounds create a flat, wide base that will become the lower crown. If you need a larger crown opening to fit a head, continue increasing in the same pattern (7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54) then (8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60) until desired diameter is reached. I used 48 sts to match the photos for a decorative hat with a 6-7 inch head opening.

Round 9-16 :

1 sc in each st (48) (8 rounds: 9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16)

Info :

Work these rounds in continuous spiral (do not join) to avoid a visible seam line. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of round 9 and move it up each round. These rounds build the straight side of the crown before the crown begins to taper into the cone.

Round 17 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 18 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Info :

Start shaping the crown inward. Stuff lightly if desired to create a firm base for the cone; do not overstuff — you want a soft but structured shape that will accept the cone attachment.

Round 19 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 20 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 21 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 22 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 23 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

At the end of Round 23 the crown top will be a small closed point. Fasten off leaving a 6-8 inch tail for sewing if you plan to attach the cone tip separately. If you prefer to work the cone extension in the same continuous piece, do NOT fasten off; instead continue increasing again to begin the cone spiral. In the photos the crown flows smoothly into the cone, so we'll continue without fasten off to build the long cone section.

Round 24 :

Change to purple if not already using purple. 6 sc in first 6 sts evenly around previous center (6)

Round 25 :

6 inc (12)

Round 26 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 27 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Info :

We are re-expanding into a taller cone that will form the sweeping spiral. For the striped look, alternate colors every 6-8 rounds as seen in the photos: purple then black, purple then black. Change colors at the start of a round and carry unused yarn inside if you want neat color transitions.

Round 28 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 29 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 30-33 :

1 sc in each st (36) (rounds 30,31,32,33)

Info :

Change to black at Round 34 to form the next stripe. When changing to black, fasten off purple tail as needed or carry purple along the inside and catch it on the wrong side. I recommend carrying when stripes are short to avoid many ends.

Round 34 :

Change to black yarn. 1 sc in each st (36)

Round 35-38 :

1 sc in each st (36) (rounds 35,36,37,38)

Info :

To create the spiral leaning effect, we will do very gradual increases on one side of the cone and slight decreases on the opposite side across several rounds. This is achieved by shifting where you place increases relative to your marked first stitch. Move the stitch marker one stitch to the right every two rounds to create a slow spiral bias in the fabric.

Round 39 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 5, 5 sc (41) — place increases clustered across one quadrant to tilt the cone slightly

Round 40 :

1 sc in each st (41)

Round 41 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 5, 6 sc (46)

Round 42 :

1 sc in each st (46)

Info :

Alternate color back to purple for the next stripe. The method above (clustered increases) subtly biases the cone so when we begin curling the tip it will naturally spiral clockwise as in the photos.

Round 43 :

Change to purple. 1 sc in each st (46)

Round 44-46 :

1 sc in each st (46)

Round 47 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6, then 10 sc (40) — begin gentle tapering toward the tip by placing decs opposite the clustered increases

Round 48 :

1 sc in each st (40)

Round 49 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6, 4 sc (34)

Round 50 :

1 sc in each st (34)

Info :

From here we will begin building the long narrow tip that is later curled. Work into the next rounds with occasional increases to keep the cone slender rather than abruptly narrow. Stuff very lightly as you go — you want shape but not a solid stuffed core. If you want a poseable tip, insert a thin florally wire before stuffing tightly at the very end of tip shaping.

Round 51 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 52 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 53 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 54 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 55 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 56 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 57 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 58 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 59 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

The tip is now small. Instead of closing completely, we will extend a long narrow spiral by working a partial tube and then forming the curl. To form the spiral visible in the photo, continue in purple for 4 rounds and then black for 4 rounds, repeating colours so that the tip echo the striped motif. Leave the center slightly open while stuffing to allow curling freely.

Round 60 :

Change to purple. 6 sc in magic loop or pick up 6 sts evenly along the small opening to begin the extended tube (6)

Round 61 :

6 inc (12)

Round 62 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 63 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 64 :

Change to black. 1 sc in each st (18)

Round 65 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 66 :

Change to purple. (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 67 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 68 :

Change to black. 1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

To create the tight spiral tip: after building the tube to about 6-10 rounds long (depending on desired curl length), you will form the spiral by decreasing one side preferentially and then rolling the tube into a coil, or by crocheting short rounds on the inside that shorten the inside edge. The method below sculpts a spiral by doing alternating decs on one quadrant and then coiling.

Round 69 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18) — begin tapering one side so the tube curls inward

Round 70 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 71 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 72 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 73 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (6)

Info :

Stuff tip lightly to keep a soft but sculptable shape. If you are using wire, feed the wire from the inside of the cone down through the tube now, leaving about 2-3 inches extending into the tip to shape the final curl. Bend and wrap any wire ends so they are not sharp. Coil the tube into the desired tight spiral by wrapping it around a pencil or by manually coiling and tacking in place with sl st or a few whip stitches using a yarn needle.

Round 74 :

Use slip stitches and single crochet to anchor the curl: Fold the small 6-st opening into itself forming a spiral corkscrew. Working from the inside out, sl st through the inner loops to tack the spiral so it holds shape. Work around two or three times until firm.

Info :

Take time shaping the spiral so it looks like the photo: a tight inner coil that grows slightly looser as it leaves the cone. Adding a few extra anchoring stitches inside the coil secures it without being visible from the outside.

— Brim Base :

Info :

We will build the brim outward from the lower edge of the crown. The brim in the photos is wide and wavy; that look is achieved by progressive, deliberate increases each round. Work the brim in a new color (black and purple alternating) picking up stitches evenly around the crown base. Count the sts around the crown bottom to ensure your starting round matches. For the counts above, pick up 48-54 sts around the base depending on exact circumference. I recommend 48 as used here.

Round 1 :

Join black yarn to any stitch at base of crown. 1 sc in each st around (48)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 24 (72)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (72)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 24 (96)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (96)

Info :

These rounds create a gently sloped brim. Work in continuous rounds, keeping an eye on how the fabric wants to sit. If your brim curls upward too much, add a round of BLO to stabilize the edge.

Round 6 :

Change to purple. (3 sc, 1 inc) x 24 (120)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (120)

Round 8 :

Change to black. (4 sc, 1 inc) x 20 (144)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (144)

Round 10 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 24 (168)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (168)

Info :

Now the brim has grown wide. To create the ruffled waves, we will alternate a round that packs stitches (to force wave folds) with a round that smooths the surface. This gives the scalloped shape seen in the image. If your brim becomes too floppy, add a round in BLO near the join with the crown to provide structure.

Round 12 :

Change to purple. (2 sc, 1 inc) x 56 (224)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (224)

Round 14 :

Change to black. (3 sc, 1 inc) x 56 (280)

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st (280)

Round 16 :

Change to purple. (4 sc, 1 inc) x 56 (336)

Info :

If your brim has expanded beyond desired width, stop increasing earlier. The numbers above are intentionally generous to create a dramatic ruffle as seen in the photos. You can reduce increase density and stop around Round 12 or 13 if you prefer a subtler wave.

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st (336)

Round 18 :

Change to black. 1 sc in each st BLO (336)

Info :

Working a BLO round here helps create a ridge that visually separates the crown from the brim. It also helps the ruffle keep its upward curve. Make sure this round is snug and even.

— Ruffle Edge :

Round 1 :

Change to purple. We will now work scallops around the outer edge to form defined waves. *Skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, skip 2 sts, sl st in next st* rep around until the end; adjust pattern to distribute evenly (scallops approx every 8-12 sts depending on local count)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st around the scallop peaks to stabilize (work into top of each 5-dc shell) — pick up each shell peak and sc across to create a defined ridge

Round 3 :

Change to black. Edge finish: 1 sc in each st around to neaten (work behind scallops to define contrast) — if you prefer a crisp black edge, use the black yarn for this round

Info :

The ruffle scallops can be sized by altering the number of dc in each shell (3 dc for smaller scallops, 7 dc for exaggerated waves). Block or steam the brim lightly after finishing to allow the waves to sit naturally.

Round 4 :

Optional decorative border: sl st in each st with black for a twisted finishing line, or hdc in black for a raised edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

— Band & Buckle :

Band Round 1 :

Using black yarn, chain a length that wraps comfortably around the crown base with slight overlap (for a 48-st base, chain 52-56 to allow overlap and seam). Join to form a loop being careful not to twist.

Band Round 2 :

Round 1 sc in each ch around the loop, join with sl st, continue working in rounds evenly until band width is 10-12 rows (10-12 rounds of sc) — fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to crown

Info :

The band is essentially a narrow tube that wraps the crown at the brim junction. Pin the band in place before sewing. The photos show the band placed just above the brim ridge with the buckle centered at the hat's front.

Buckle Round 1 :

Using silver yarn, ch 12, (or fewer for smaller buckle) sc in 2nd ch from hook and across to create a small rectangle base; join work to form a flat square with 10-12 sc per side depending on desired buckle size.

Buckle Round 2 :

Turn and work 10-12 sc across the short edge to create a rectangle of about 10 x 10 stitches. Join and work around the rectangle with sc to form a solid tube; fold into a square and sew edges together to create an open square buckle (fasten off leaving a long tail).

Buckle Round 3 :

Work a second inner square in black (or leave open) by sewing a 6 x 6 sc fabric and stitching it into the middle if you want a filled buckle center like the photo. Weave a silver yarn border around the black square to form the raised outer edge.

Info :

The buckle can also be crocheted flat as a square ring by making a flat rectangle, cutting the center out, and then whipstitching silver around the outer edge. Use a stitch marker to hold shape while sewing onto the band.

— Finishing Touches :

Info :

Position the band around the crown where you wish (photo shows band about 6-8 rounds above the brim). Tuck any overlapping tail under the buckle and sew through both band and crown with the long tail using small whip stitches so that the band sits flat. Hide ends inside seam.

Round :

Sewing & Anchoring: Using black yarn, sew the band to the crown with small stitches every 6-8 sts so it does not shift. Attach the buckle centered on the front by sewing through the band and then around the back of the buckle so it sits snugly.

Info :

Final shaping: Adjust the brim waves and the spiral tip manually. If the tip is too floppy, add a small length of wire inside the spiral and cover the wire with a short stuffing column; if too stiff, remove a small amount of stuffing. Steam-block the brim lightly if you want a flatter appearance, or leave unblocked for dramatic waves.

Round :

Weave in all ends on the wrong side using a yarn needle. Trim excess yarn and tidy edges. If desired, add decorative touches like a small crocheted bat, patch, or additional band wraps.

Info :

Make adjustments as needed to match your personal size preference. If you want to wear the hat, consider adding a lightweight inner headband or elastic to keep it secure. For display-only pieces, lightweight stuffing and sewing alone should be sufficient.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the band to the crown by positioning it about 6-8 rounds above the brim; pin in place and sew with small whip stitches through the band and crown every 6-8 stitches for stability
  • Center the buckle on the front of the band and sew through the band and buckle back with silver yarn; secure with multiple passes and weave ends inside the band
  • If the spiral tip was worked separately, insert the tip into the cone opening by aligning the edge rounds and sewing through both pieces with a whip stitch, working slowly to keep the spiral centered
  • For optional wire in the tip: insert wire before finishing the tube. Wrap the wire with leftover yarn, cover with a short stuffing column, then secure the tube opening to the cone with hidden stitches
  • Pin brim scallops to desired shape and tack the scallop peaks to the underside of the brim base with a few discreet stitches to lock the waves in place
  • Weave in every color change tail inside the hat so they are hidden; tie off and bury ends inside the brim where possible
  • Check seams for security; reinforce any area that may bear stress (where the band is sewn on, and the base of the cone where it joins the crown)
  • Optionally add a fabric glue dot inside the buckle behind the band to prevent shifting if the buckle feels loose

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff the cone tip gradually as you work — small amounts of polyester fill allow you to shape and curl the tip without creating a hard internal mass
  • 💡When changing colors, finish the last yarn-over with the next color to create clean joins; weave in ends neatly inside the hat
  • 💡Work in continuous spiral for most of the crown to avoid a visible seam; this also helps the stripes spiral naturally
  • 💡If you want a wearable hat, test fit at the brim stage and adjust the crown diameter and brim stiffness for comfort
  • 💡For the ruffled brim, stop increasing earlier if you prefer less dramatic waves; the increase rounds provided produce a wide decorative ruffle like the photos
  • 💡Secure the buckle with discrete stitches from behind so the front remains clean and smooth
  • 💡If adding wire, pad the wire ends well and do not allow sharp points to protrude; wrap with duct tape or yarn before inserting

This spiraled witch hat brings together bold stripes, a dramatic ruffled brim, and a playful curled tip for the perfect Halloween statement piece! The step-by-step instructions make it fun to build and shape, and the finished hat looks stylish on a shelf or as a costume topper. I hope you enjoy the shaping process — the spiral and ruffle are so satisfying to sculpt. Happy crocheting, and enjoy showing off your magical creation! 🎃✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this hat?

Using worsted weight yarn and a 4.0mm hook with the round counts provided, the finished decorative hat measures approximately 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) tall to the tip and the brim measures about 12-14 inches (30-36 cm) across. Adjust yarn weight and hook size to change final dimensions.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes — you can use different yarn weights, but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn label for a firm fabric). Thicker yarn yields a larger, sturdier hat; thinner yarn makes a more delicate hat and will require more rounds to reach the same size.

Do I need to use stuffing or wire for the tip?

Stuffing is optional and should be light if used to help shape the tip. Wire is recommended only if you want a poseable tip; use thin floral wire or pipe cleaner, pad the ends, and cover with yarn to avoid sharp points.

How much yarn will I need?

Approximately 150-180g of purple and 120-140g of black worsted-weight yarn were used for the hat shown, plus 20-30g of silver or gray for the buckle. Adjust amounts if you change size or yarn weight.

Can I wear this hat comfortably?

Yes — with small adjustments. Make sure the crown diameter matches your head measurement. Add a soft internal headband or a short elastic band under the brim to secure the hat during wear. Avoid adding wire unless fully padded and covered for safety.

How do I get clean stripes without many loose tails?

Carry unused yarn along the inside when stripes are a few rounds long; otherwise finish off colors and weave tails neatly. Use a hook method to change color on the last yarn-over of the previous stitch for cleaner joins.

What if my brim is too floppy or too stiff?

If brim is floppy, add a round in BLO at the crown join or use a tighter hook for the first few brim rounds. If too stiff, remove a few increase rounds or use a lighter hand while crocheting. Light steam blocking can also change the brim curve.

Can I scale the pattern smaller or larger?

Yes. To scale smaller, stop increasing earlier on crown and brim, and use lighter yarn with a smaller hook. To scale larger, add extra rounds of increases at the brim and increase crown initial rounds for a larger head opening.