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Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.1K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

About This Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

This pattern recreates the pictured Witch's Brew hat: a tall, tapered cone with alternating dark green and black spiral stripes and a playful curled tip. The body is worked in tight single crochet for a dense, structured fabric; the edge is finished in a chunky, bubbly ruffle that gives the brim a dramatic silhouette. The spiral striping is created by working in continuous rounds with deliberate color changes to make a diagonal twist around the cone.

Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The hat is lightly stuffed and supported internally for shape and the tip can be wired for a holdable curl. The instructions include a separate brim/ruffle section so you can make a wearable or purely decorative version.

Why You'll Love This Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

I love this pattern because the spiral stripes and corkscrew tip give such a magical, mischievous personality—it feels like a witch stepped right out of a storybook. The dense single crochets create a satisfying textured fabric that holds its shape, while the ruffled brim adds a playful, tactile finish. I also appreciate how adaptable the pattern is: change colors, add a lining, or wire the tip for a poseable effect.

Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 1 - construction progress Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing these step-by-step instructions because the spiral stripes and curled tip invite so many custom options while keeping the structure intuitive. The core construction is simply a tightly crocheted cone and a separately worked brim, which makes experimenting safe and low-risk.

You can easily customize by changing stripe width (try 4 rounds for thinner stripes or 8 rounds for broader bands), alter the color palette to purple and black for another witchy vibe, or add metallic thread to the ruffle edge for a festive sparkle. Swap the ruffle for a flatter brim if you prefer a more classic silhouette or insert a ring of plastic canvas between brim rounds for a very stiff wearable hat.

I also encourage trying a poseable tip—thread wire through the narrow stalk before closure and shape it like a spiral candy cane. These small changes let you make a version that suits your style and function: decorative shelf piece, costume crown, or seasonal gift.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned spirals and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch when working in continuous rounds. ✗ Changing colors without securing and weaving tails properly can cause bulky joins; carry yarn neatly or weave ends in as you go. ✗ Working too loosely with a recommended hook will produce a floppy hat that won't hold the corkscrew shape; work slightly tighter than usual for a dense fabric. ✗ Not stuffing or supporting the cone before shaping the curl makes the tip collapse or lose its curve; add stuffing gradually and optionally insert wire. ✗ Doing decreases too quickly will make the cone pointy and short; pace your decreases to keep a graceful taper. ✗ Skipping Info sections for color change and spiral guidance will result in non-diagonal stripes; follow the color-change placement notes carefully. ✗ Attaching the brim without blocking or matching counts can make the brim lumpy; pin and count stitches evenly before sewing. ✗ Ruffle stitches not worked evenly around the brim will ripple unevenly; check stitch count and use BLO/FLO where instructed for crisp edge.

Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

Make a whimsical corkscrew witch hat with bold dark green and black spiral stripes, a sturdy pointed spire and a chunky bubbly ruffle brim. This decorative hat features tight single-crochet texture, continuous spiral striping and a hand-curled tip that holds its shape. Perfect as a tabletop Halloween accent, costume topper, or shelf companion.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Witch's Brew Spiral Witch Hat Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 200-220g in dark green (main stripe color)
  • 02
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 200-220g in black (accent stripe color and ruffle)
  • 03
    Optional: Small amount (10-20g) of coordinating color for accents
  • 04
    Recommended: Use two full worsted skeins per color for larger decorative versions

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (adjust if you crochet tightly/loosely)
  • 02
    3.25mm (D) crochet hook for tighter brim ruffle (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for weaving ends and sewing seams
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 3-4) to mark round starts and stripes
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (small amount, approx 50-80g) for lightweight internal support
  • 06
    Optional: 18-22 gauge craft wire or floral wire (for poseable curled tip)
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for blocking and assembly
  • 09
    Tape measure or ruler
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for securing knots on decorative versions (not required)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Crown (Hat Top, worked in the round) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Info :

At the end of Round 10 you have established a comfortable crown base of 60 sts. This will create the inner circumference that sits over your head or forms the interior of the decorative hat. From this point we will work in continuous rounds (spiral) to build the cone shape; place a stitch marker at your first stitch and move it up every 8-12 rounds to keep track of position. Working in continuous rounds (no join) helps the stripes spiral naturally.

Round 11-16 :

1 sc in each st (60) (work 6 rounds) (60)

Info :

These rounds create the lower crown height. If you are making a wearable hat, try this on now to check crown fit. If you want a taller or shorter crown, adjust by adding/subtracting even rounds (1 sc in each st) before proceeding to the cone shaping. Prepare to begin stripe sequence: the pictured hat alternates dark green and black in broad bands approximately 6 rounds thick. We'll start the cone stripe sequence in the next section.

— Spire / Cone (long tapered point with spiral stripes) :

Info :

Work this section in continuous spiral rounds to form the long taper and to encourage the diagonal stripe effect. Change colors every 6 rounds (unless you prefer thinner or thicker stripes). Carry the unused yarn up the inside or break and weave tails - I recommend carrying when possible to avoid many ends. For a decorative stiff curl, lightly stuff and optionally insert craft wire through the narrow tail later; see Assembly notes.

Round 1 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (60) (60) — continue in same color as Round 16

Round 2-6 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (60) (work 5 rounds) (60)

Info :

Change color at the beginning of Round 7 (Spire) to create the first stripe contrast. To form the diagonal spiral appearance, do not join or slip-stitch between color changes; finish the final stitch of the color and continue with the new color in the next stitch — carrying the previous yarn inside the hat or fastening off and weaving in later.

Round 7 (Spire) :

Change to contrasting color (Color B). 1 sc in each st (60) (60)

Round 8-12 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (60) (work 5 more rounds in Color B) (60)

Round 13 (Spire) :

Change to Color A. 1 sc in each st (60) (60)

Round 14-18 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (60) (work 5 more rounds in Color A) (60)

Info :

We will begin gentle decreases every 7th round to taper the cone while maintaining wide stripe bands. The decrease pattern reduces 6 stitches each decrease round: (X sc, dec) x 6 which keeps counts in multiples of 6 for symmetry and neat spiral wrap. Continue to alternate color bands every 6 rounds. The stitch math below is consistent: each decrease round subtracts 6 stitches.

Round 19 (Spire) :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 20-24 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (54) (work 5 rounds) (54)

Round 25 (Spire) :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 26-30 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (48) (work 5 rounds) (48)

Info :

Continue changing colors at the start of a 6-round band to maintain broad stripes. Each decrease round is placed after 6 even rounds of single crochet to keep band width consistent. Keep your tension even and move your stitch marker every time you complete a block of 6-12 rounds so that you always know the hidden 'start' of the spiral.

Round 31 (Spire) :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 32-36 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (42) (work 5 rounds) (42)

Round 37 (Spire) :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 38-42 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (36) (work 5 rounds) (36)

Round 43 (Spire) :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 44-48 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (30) (work 5 rounds) (30)

Info :

At this point the cone is shaping and the wide stripes are visible. If you want a more dramatic diagonal stripe, offset color changes by 1-2 stitches occasionally: at the start of a new color band, slip the first stitch in the next stitch instead of the usual spot. This subtle shift creates a spiral line; test on a small sample if unsure.

Round 49 (Spire) :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 50-54 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (24) (work 5 rounds) (24)

Round 55 (Spire) :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 56-60 (Spire) :

1 sc in each st (18) (work 5 rounds) (18)

Round 61 (Spire) :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Rounds 49-61 bring the cone to a narrow 6-st tube. From here we build a long narrow stalk of 6 sts to create the curled tip. If you plan to insert wire, leave a long tail and do not fasten off completely; you will feed the wire through the narrow tube later and pad around it. Lightly stuff the narrow stalk as you go — too much stuffing can prevent a smooth curl.

Round 62-84 (Spire - Narrow stalk) :

1 sc in each st (6) (work 23 rounds) (6)

Info :

This long 6-st stalk provides the length for the corkscrew curl seen in the photo. Work it in spiral so the stripes continue to run diagonally: change color every 6 rounds or as desired. If your stripes start to stack directly instead of spiraling, you can alter the start of a color band by skipping the first stitch of a band to offset it slightly and create the corkscrew look.

Round 85 :

(1 sc, dec) x 2 (4)

Round 86 :

2 sc, dec (3)

Round 87 :

1 sc, dec (2)

Round 88 :

2 dec (0) - do not cut yarn; leave long tail for finishing the tip and for threading wire if inserting

Info :

Finish the very tip by flattening the last stitches and closing with a needle if desired, or leave the small opening to feed wire. If you closed the tip completely but plan to insert wire, instead make a small long tail tube to thread wire through before closing fully. Do not overstuff the narrow tip — light padding gives a smooth, flexible curl.

— Brim Base (Create a flat ring to attach to base of crown) :

Info :

The brim is worked separately and sewn to the lower edge of the crown (the round where the hat sits). For easiest attachment, make the brim base the same stitch count as your crown round where the hat sits. In this pattern the crown lower band is 60 sts. If your crown circumference differs, adjust the brim base to match stitch count when sewing.

Round 1 (Brim) :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 (Brim) :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 (Brim) :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 (Brim) :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 (Brim) :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 (Brim) :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 (Brim) :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 (Brim) :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 (Brim) :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 (Brim) :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11-12 (Brim) :

1 sc in each st (60) (work 2 rounds) (60)

Info :

At the end of Round 12 you have a flat brim disc with the same 60 sts circumference that will match the hat crown. If your crown had a different count, continue increasing around to reach the matching stitch count. The brim disc should be relatively flat; if it cups, add one or two rounds of even sc to adjust, if it ruffles instead, reduce the increase rate.

Round 13-14 (Brim - Stabilizing) :

1 sc in each st (60) (work 2 rounds) (60)

Info :

These extra rounds create a sturdy base for the ruffle. You can optionally work these rounds in BLO to create a small ridge where the ruffle will attach: 1 sc in each st BLO (60).

— Brim Ruffle (Chunky bubbly picot edge) :

Info :

The ruffle creates the bubbly, bouncy edge seen in the photo. It is worked into the outer round of the brim. For a chunky ruffle we use shell clusters (for example 5 dc shell or multiple hdc clusters) and a small picot detail. Use the same color as the last stripe on the brim or black for contrast like the sample.

Round 1 (Ruffle) :

Attach Color B (black) to outermost stitch; *ch2, 5 dc in next st (shell), sl st in next 2 sts; rep from * around to end (create 12 shells) — adjust rep count so shells distribute evenly (approx 12 shells) (60)

Round 2 (Ruffle Picot) :

*sl st to center of first shell, ch3, sl st in 3rd ch (picot), sl st to next shell center; rep from * around. Fasten off and weave ends (60 decorative picots)

Info :

If you prefer a denser ruffle, use ch2, (hdc, dc, hdc) in each shell center instead of shells. For a crisp, chunky look use a slightly smaller hook (3.25mm) and ensure shells are evenly spaced. Block the brim lightly to open shells if needed.

Alt Ruffle Option :

For the exact chunky bubble effect in the photo you can work a 6-st cluster: *in next st work (2 dc cluster, ch1, 2 dc cluster) all in the same st, sl st in next st; rep around. This produces a puffier scallop. Use BLO on the brim base before working this to create a raised join.

Info :

Keep a count of shells or clusters and pin them to the brim base to ensure they sit evenly before final finishing. The photo shows the ruffle worked in black to present a defined edge against the green; choose whichever color you like for contrast.

— Finishing Tip: Curl and Support :

Info :

To achieve the corkscrew curl at the tip: after completing the narrow stalk, insert a length of craft wire if you want a poseable curl. Thread the wire through the center of the narrow tube and bend the wire into a gentle spiral. Stuff lightly around the wire to give the curl a smooth rounded profile. If you prefer no wire, stuff the narrow stalk firmly and use your fingers to shape a natural spiral by rolling and pinching the fabric until it sets; a few drops of steam-blocking (careful) can help set the curl on acrylic or blended fibers.

Info :

Weave all color ends in neatly along the inside of the hat. If you carried yarn for stripes, tuck carried strands alongside the inside of the cone and use a yarn needle to finish ends. Use a few strategic stitches to secure the last stitch at the tip so the curl holds.

Info :

If making a wearable hat, check fit and comfort: add a soft crochet or fabric lining ring for comfort around the head if the brim edge is stiff. A safety-lined seam or soft bias fabric strip sewn into the inner rim helps wearable comfort.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach brim to crown: With hat crown inside-out (or brim right side up), align the brim base round (60 sts) with the lower edge of your crown (round where you want the brim to sit). Pin evenly around with 12 pins then whip stitch through both layers, spacing stitches evenly and using a matching yarn for an invisible seam.
  • Attach spire/tip if worked separately: If you made the cone/spire as a separate piece, insert the narrow end into the crown opening, pin in place and sew securely with a ladder stitch around the seam, stuffing slightly as you attach to avoid gaps.
  • Insert wire (optional): Feed craft wire through the narrow stalk before closing the very tip. Bend and shape the wire into a spiral, then pad with small amounts of stuffing around it. Secure the wire end inside the hat by wrapping with leftover yarn or a small piece of felt glued in place.
  • Finish the ruffle: Pin the ruffle evenly around the brim edge and slip-stitch or sew in place with small stitches to secure. For a cleaner finish, sew the ruffle to the outermost round of the brim using a whip stitch and anchor every 4-6 stitches.
  • Weave in ends: Tuck carried yarn and tails inside the hat and weave through several rounds with a yarn needle. Trim close to sewing but do not cut too short; pull gently to seat ends into fabric.
  • Steam/block (optional): Lightly steam-block the brim to flatten or shape the ruffle if desired—use a steam iron at distance and avoid pressing directly on synthetic yarn. Let dry fully before final shaping.
  • Final shaping: Shape the cone into the desired corkscrew and pinch the ruffle to create the bubbly texture. Use pins while dry-curling to set curl direction for 24 hours if needed.
  • Secure small decorative elements: If you add buttons, pins, or embroidered detail, attach them after all stuffing and shaping are complete, and use fabric glue or extra stitches for security.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping when working in continuous rounds.
  • 💡Stuff the narrow stalk and the inside of the cone gradually; too much stuffing early will make it hard to close the tip neatly.
  • 💡If you intend to use craft wire for the tip, thread the wire before final closure and wrap ends with yarn to prevent poking through stitches.
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; slightly tighter tension than usual helps the hat hold its shape and prevents stuffing from showing.
  • 💡When changing colors for stripes, begin the color change at the start of a stitch and carry the unused yarn along the inside where practical to avoid many woven tails.
  • 💡Pin the brim before sewing to the crown to ensure even spacing; count stitches and divide into quarters to help placement.
  • 💡Work ruffle clusters evenly; use stitch counts as a guide and adjust shell size if your yarn tension differs from sample.
  • 💡If your stitch count is off, unravel to the last correct round rather than compensating later—this preserves the hat shape and stripe alignment.

This Witch's Brew hat is a playful mix of structure and whimsy—bold spirals, a corkscrew tip and a chunky ruffle make it a standout piece for seasonal decor or costume fun. Each stitch contributes to its personality, so take your time and enjoy the shaping process. 🧶✨ Big or small, this hat will add a handcrafted charm to any nook in your home. Happy hooking and be sure to share a photo when you’re done! 🎃

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this hat?

Using worsted weight yarn and the suggested hooks, the finished decorative hat measures approximately 11-13 inches tall (including curled tip) with a brim diameter of about 9-10 inches. Using thicker yarn or a larger hook will increase dimensions proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1-2 sizes smaller than the yarn label suggests for amigurumi-style density). Changing yarn weight will change the final size and the number of stitches may need adjusting for the brim to match the crown.

Do I need wire to make the corkscrew tip?

No, wire is optional. Wire makes the tip poseable and holds a precise spiral. Alternatively, stuffing and gentle shaping (or lightly steam-setting) can give a soft but stable curl, perfect for a decorative piece.

How much stuffing will I need?

Approximately 50-80 grams of polyester fiberfill is enough for this decorative hat. The bulk of stuffing is used in the cone and the narrow stalk to preserve curl shape but use light amounts inside the stalk to keep it flexible.

Can I make this wearable?

Yes. For a wearable hat, take care with fit: measure crown circumference and adjust the brim and crown rounds so the internal circumference matches your head. Add a soft crochet or fabric lining for comfort and ensure any wire ends are padded and secured to avoid poking.

How do I make the spiral stripes?

Work in continuous rounds and change color every 6 rounds (or your chosen band width). Because you are working in spiral, the color joins will shift each band slightly, creating a diagonal spiral. Offset a band by one stitch occasionally if you want a stronger diagonal effect.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice the count is off, it's best to rip back to the last correct round and correct it. Use a stitch marker at the start of each round to avoid miscounts. Compensating later often results in uneven fabric or lumpy seams.

Can I customize the ruffle?

Absolutely. Try different shell sizes, add a picot edge, use contrasting yarns or a sparkly thread for a festive look. You can also make the ruffle deeper by adding an extra shell round or by working shells into the BLO of the brim base for more lift.