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Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern

Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern
4.2★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.6K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern

This table runner is composed of layered maple-style leaves, smaller ivy-style leaves, and clustered berry bobbles crocheted individually and joined into an organic, meandering runner. Visible features include deep rust, golden yellow, olive green and a rich plum for berry clusters. Leaves have textured veins created using front- and back-post stitches and raised slip-stitch ridges. The overall look is flat, delicate, and suitably decorative for fall tables.

Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The motifs are lightweight and joined with decorative chains and slip-stitch connectors so the runner drapes naturally across a table. The pattern is modular—make it longer or shorter by adding or removing rows of leaves and berries.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it captures the warmth of fall in tactile stitches and layered color. The little berry clusters create delightful punctuation between leaves, and the raised veins give each motif a handcrafted, sculptural look. I also love how forgiving the join-as-you-go approach is—it's simple to customize the runner length and color layout to match your home.

Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how adaptable this runner is—use the same motifs with thicker yarn for a chunky country table runner, or switch to cotton for a crisper, more formal look. Swap the plum berry color for deep navy or burnt orange for a different mood.

I often make a single-row runner for a narrow table and a double-row layout for wider farmhouse tables; simply add more motifs and connectors to widen the layout. You can also make placemats by grouping three or four motifs into a compact block.

Try adding tiny metallic beads at berry centers for holiday sparkle or embroider thin vein lines with a darker thread for extra definition—small custom touches make each runner uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the base rounds will make it hard to know where each petal begins and ends; mark your first stitch. ✗ Working too loosely will make the leaves floppy and show stuffing or gaps; aim for moderately tight tension to keep motifs flat. ✗ Not blocking motifs after finishing will cause edges to ripple; wet-block or steam-block each leaf for a neat finish. ✗ Joining motifs without pinning first can create crooked joins; always lay the runner out and pin motifs before sewing or slip-stitch joining. ✗ Using the wrong hook (too large) will change motif size and make joining difficult; stick to recommended hook or adjust consistently. ✗ Crocheting bobbles unevenly creates lumpy berry clusters; make each bobble the same way and tighten loops consistently. ✗ Failing to weave tails neatly will cause the runner to come apart; weave in ends at least 1.5 inches into motifs and knot discreetly.

Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern

Create a warm, vintage-inspired autumn table runner made from linked crochet leaf motifs, tiny ivy stars, and clustered berry bobbles. This pattern uses rich fall tones—mustard, rust, olive, and plum—to form a long, organic runner perfect for seasonal decorating. Each motif is crocheted flat, joined with simple chains and slip-stitch joins, and finished with a delicate scalloped edging. A thoughtful project that showcases texture and color for a cozy table display.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Leaves Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 200-250g in warm rust (main autumn leaf color)
  • 02
    80-100g in mustard/golden yellow (accent leaf color)
  • 03
    70-90g in olive green (accent leaf color)
  • 04
    40-60g in cream/pale gold for contrast leaves
  • 05
    40-50g in deep plum/wine for berry bobbles (accent clusters)
  • 06
    Optional small amounts (10-20g) in brown for very subtle vein outlines

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for motifs (use 3.25mm if you crochet loosely)
  • 02
    2.75mm (C) hook for tighter bobbles and tiny leaves (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving and sewing
  • 04
    Blocking mat and rust-proof pins for shaping motifs
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 6 to mark petal starts and rounds)
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Optional: small stitch gauge to keep consistent sizes
  • 09
    Optional: stitch holder or scrap yarn for holding loops when making petal repeats

Progress Tracker

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— Overview :

Info :

This pattern builds the runner from repeat motifs: Large Maple Leaf, Small Maple Leaf, Little Ivy Star, and Berry Clusters. Make motifs individually, block them flat, then join with short decorative chains and slip-stitch joins. The sequence and color placement are fully customizable. This pattern gives instructions for one large leaf, one small leaf, one ivy star, one berry cluster, and a joining / edging scheme—you will repeat these elements to achieve the full runner.

— Large Maple Leaf :

Round 1 :

mr, 8 sc into magic ring (8)

Round 2 :

inc around (16)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 8 (32)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 8 (40)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 8 (48)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place a stitch marker at the first stitch of Round 7 to define the start of a repeat of 8 segments. You will create 8 petal bases around this center; marker helps you find the beginning of each petal.

Round 8 :

*ch6, sl st into next st* around to form 8 loops (no change to center stitch count - this round forms 8 loops used as petal foundations)

Info :

Loop round: when you ch6 and sl st into next base stitch you are creating an outward loop on which a petal will be worked. Keep loops evenly tensioned; if a loop is too tight the petal will pull inward.

Round 9 :

Work petals into each ch6 loop: sl st into loop, ch1 (counts as turning), 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, sl st to base (work this sequence into each of the 8 loops, resulting in 8 petals; petal total ~56 stitches placed on loops)

Round 10 :

Rotate to the front of each petal and work 1 sc in the top of each petal stitch across: (for each petal: sc into the base of petal top, sc into adjacent post) - this creates a small ridge across each petal (approx 56 sc total)

Info :

This is the first texture round: work into the tops of the petals and into the base circle to make a crisp junction. If stitches look loose, use a smaller hook for these rounds only to tighten texture.

Round 11 :

*(ch3, sl st into third ch to form a small picot at petal tip), sl st into next petal base* repeat for all 8 petals creating a decorative tip (no base stitch increase)

Round 12 :

Join around petals by working 1 sc in each join stitch along petal bases to pull the petals closer to the center (approx 48 sc equivalent gathered around center)

Info :

At this stage the leaf has 8 pronounced lobes. Block the motif flat before moving on to add vein texture so the raised stitches will be even after finishing.

Round 13 :

Change to main leaf color if you used a contrast for petal tops. FPdc around alternate central stitches to begin raised vein lines: *FPdc around next base st, sc next st* repeat across the center (total will match base, approx 48 raised posts)

Round 14 :

Between each FPdc of previous round work an sc to stabilize: 1 sc between each FPdc (48)

Round 15 :

To emphasize the central vein on 4 main points: on every other petal front post group work 2 FPdc in same base stitch to make a slightly higher ridge (this creates four taller ridges positioned evenly)

Info :

You should now have textured vein ridges radiating from the center. Use a contrasting brown thread very sparingly if you want delicate veins by overlaying thin embroidery stitches along these FPdc ridges.

Round 16 :

Work a finishing round: 1 sc in each st around the entire motif, including around petal tips and connections (count will vary depending on how you stitched petals but expect around 88-96 sc - this round smooths the edges)

Round 17 :

Edge scallop round: *sl st into next 2 sts, (3 sc, picot) in next st, sl st next 2 sts* repeat around to create gentle scalloped petal edges. End with sl st to join

Info :

Fasten off and weave in ends. Press lightly when blocking to flatten petal centers but keep the picot tips slightly three-dimensional. Expected finished diameter: approximately 4.5-5.5 inches depending on tension and yarn.

— Small Maple Leaf :

Round 1 :

mr, 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

inc around (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

*ch5, sl st into next st* around to form 6 loops (this creates six small lobes)

Round 7 :

Work petal into each ch5 loop: sl st into loop, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st to base (repeat x6; petal stitches ~6 per petal, ~36 total)

Info :

Small leaves are quick and designed to tuck between large leaves. Block small leaves flat immediately for consistent size.

Round 8 :

1 sc around base to tidy join (approx 24 sc)

Round 9 :

Small scallop: *sl st next st, (3 sc in next st), sl st next st* repeat around to make slight lobed edge. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Info :

Finished small leaf measures roughly 2.25-3 inches across depending on yarn and tension.

— Little Ivy Star (small 5-point leaf) :

Round 1 :

mr, 5 sc into magic ring (5)

Round 2 :

inc around (10)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 5 (15)

Round 4 :

Work 5 short points: *ch6, sl st into next base stitch* x5 creating five loops

Round 5 :

Into each loop work sl st, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (repeat x5) - results in five tidy points (approx 30 petal stitches)

Info :

Ivy stars are used to fill negative space and give an organic look. They are small and quick - make many while you have your color palette out.

Round 6 :

Work 1 sc around to tidy base and create a small edge, fasten off (approx 15 sc)

Round 7 :

Optional: With contrasting thread embroider a thin vein from center out along each point using surface slip-stitches.

Info :

Use these stars to connect larger leaves or to visually separate clusters; their size should remain consistent so plan layout before joining.

— Berry Cluster (make cluster of five small berries) :

Berry - Round 1 :

mr, 6 sc into magic ring (6)

Berry - Round 2 :

inc around (12)

Berry - Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Berry - Round 4 :

Work 1 round of bobble-ish texture: *(yo, insert, pull up loop)x3, yo and draw through all loops on hook to create bobble*, sl st to next st - repeat bobble 6 times creating a textured ring (this round produces a tight textured berry surface)

Berry - Round 5 :

Dec round: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Berry - Round 6 :

6 dec (6) - finish with small opening. Fasten off leaving short tail, weave through last round to close if needed. Make 3-5 berries and sew them together closely to form a compact cluster of berries (we used clusters of 4-5 in the sample)

Info :

When assembling the berries into a cluster, use short tail ends and a mattress stitch or backstitch to join the berry bases to one another tightly. Keep clusters small, about 1-1.25 inches across.

— Connector Chain & Joining Motif :

Round 1 :

Work a decorative chain connector: ch30 (or longer/shorter for spacing), sc into second ch from hook and along chain back forming a tiny cord (approx 28 sc) - repeat for the length you need between motifs

Info :

Connectors are made in a coordinating color (we used a warm brown/orange that reads as a neutral). Chains create airy negative space. Keep connector length consistent between joins for a neat runner.

Round 2 :

Joining technique (slip-stitch join-as-you-go): Lay the next motif next to a placed motif, align petal tips and sl st through both motifs at regular intervals (every 3-4 sts) to create a secure but flexible join. When joining chain connectors, slip-stitch chain ends under a petal tip or into the base round of the motif.

Info :

Pin motifs in their final positions on a blocking board before joining to ensure even spacing and angle. Work joins on the right side for neater visible joins, and avoid tight stitching that pulls motifs out of shape.

Round 3 :

To create staggered layered layout: join one large leaf to two small leaves at its sides, add an ivy star between large leaf tips, and attach a berry cluster near the center where seams meet. Use 6-8 slip stitches per contact point to anchor motifs securely.

Info :

Plan your runner layout on a table: alternate color placement to avoid clumping same-color leaves together. Photograph layout or take notes so you can recreate arrangement if interrupted.

— Edging & Final Scallop :

Round 1 :

Once all motifs are joined into your desired runner length, work a unifying border along the outer edges: 1 sc evenly around entire perimeter, working 2 sc in corners or exposed points (st count varies by runner length)

Round 2 :

Scalloped border: *(skip 1 st, 5 dc in next st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st)* repeat around. This creates small shell scallops framing the motifs.

Round 3 :

Optional tightening round: 1 sc around edging to tidy scallops and secure join ends. Fasten off and weave in all tails. Light steam-block the runner into final shape, pinning points and scallops gently to open them.

Info :

Because the runner stretches across a table it benefits from gentle blocking; do not over-stretch leaves—just open the points so they sit flat and even.

— Pattern Repeat & Sizing Guidance :

Info :

To achieve the pictured table runner length (approximately 60-72 inches): make 18 large leaves, 18-24 small leaves, 12 ivy stars and 12-16 berry clusters, and join them in an alternating staggered pattern across two or three columns depending on your width preference. For a shorter runner of about 36 inches, reduce repeats proportionally (for example: 8 large leaves, 8 small leaves, 6 ivy stars, 6 clusters).

Info :

Repeat motifs exactly to keep the runner balanced. Count motif repeats as you lay them out and take photo reference as you progress so color distribution remains pleasing.

— Finishing Touches :

Info :

Weave in all ends on the wrong side of the runner so the right side stays clean. Use a small amount of matching yarn to tack down any raised bits that might flip up. For extra weight and stability, sew small hidden fabric or driftwood beads under the runner at intervals to help it stay centered on the table.

Info :

If you plan to launder the runner, choose machine-washable yarn and test one motif first. Hand washing and laying flat to dry is safest to preserve crisp edges and colors.

Info :

Pattern yields flexible design—feel free to substitute cotton for a crisper drape or acrylic for easy care; modify hook size by 0.25-0.5 mm to maintain motif sizes.

Assembly Instructions

  • Lay out all motifs in your chosen arrangement on a flat surface; photograph or note placement before joining to maintain color balance.
  • Attach motifs using slip-stitch join-as-you-go: align petal tips and sl st through both motifs at regular intervals (every 3-4 sts) to create secure, flexible joins.
  • Join connector chains between motifs by slip-stitching chain ends into the base round where petals meet; use consistent chain lengths for regular spacing.
  • Sew berry clusters to junction points where three or more motifs meet, using short tails and tight backstitching to hold clusters firmly.
  • Work edging around entire runner after joining all motifs: 1 sc around, then scallop shells (5 dc) repeated to frame the runner, finishing with a tidy sc round.
  • Block the assembled runner flat, pinning petal tips and scallops into place; steam lightly or wet-block and allow to dry before removing pins.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of rounds and to mark petal start points to avoid losing count in petal-building rounds.
  • 💡Stuffing is not used in this flat runner; maintain even tension and block motifs flat for best visual results.
  • 💡When joining motifs, place pins and check for symmetry—joining too tightly will pucker the pattern.
  • 💡Choose yarns with similar drape if mixing brands to prevent motif size differences; swatch one leaf in each color to check gauge.
  • 💡For neat joins use the same hook size and work all connector chains with one consistent tension.
  • 💡When weaving in ends, bury tails across several stitches on the wrong side to prevent accidental unravelling.
  • 💡Keep a notebook or photo record of your color sequence so you can replicate or adjust the layout.
  • 💡If gifting, label care instructions for the recipient to preserve blocking and color vibrancy (hand wash recommended for natural fibers).

This autumn leaf table runner brings the softness and color of the season into your home with handcrafted charm. Each leaf and berry cluster is a small celebration of texture and hue, sewn together to create a flowing, organic centerpiece you can be proud of. 🧶 Arrange it long and lean or shorten it for a cozy pumpkin vignette—this design makes a heartfelt handmade gift or a warm addition to your own table. Happy stitching and may every stitch add a little more autumn warmth to your home! 🍂✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Based on the recommended yarn and hook, a runner using the sample motif repeat (18 large leaves etc.) will be approximately 60-72 inches long and 8-10 inches wide. Size will vary with yarn weight and crochet tension.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Use an appropriately sized hook to keep motifs dense enough to hold shape. Thicker yarn will yield larger motifs and a thicker runner; thinner yarn will create a more delicate piece—adjust motif counts to reach desired length.

Do I need to block each motif before joining?

Blocking is strongly recommended. Wet- or steam-blocking flattens points and opens the picots and scallops so all motifs join neatly and the runner lies flat.

How much yarn will I need?

Approximately 400-500 grams total depending on number of motifs and runner length. The main color will be used most—estimate 200-250g for the principal leaf color, and smaller amounts for accents and berries (see materials list).

Are the berry clusters securely attached for table use?

Yes—sew berry clusters tightly with needle and yarn tail through the basis of each berry and into multiple motifs to anchor clusters. If the runner will be handled often, tack clusters additionally on the underside.

Can I machine wash this runner?

Machine washing depends on yarn fiber. Acrylic blends are more machine friendly; natural fibers may shrink or distort. Hand wash and lay flat to dry for best long-term results.

How do I change the runner length?

Add or remove repeats of large or small leaf sequences and corresponding connector chains. Because the pattern is modular, you can scale up or down easily—plan layout first then assemble.

Can I make this pattern into placemats or coasters?

Absolutely—use single motifs for coasters or small groupings for placemats. Add backing felt or a fabric lining if you want extra protection for surfaces.