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Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern
4.8★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

This filet-style table runner is worked flat in a warm cream (main) with seven centered maple leaves in fall tones (deep red, rust, mustard, olive green, chocolate brown). The leaves are created using filled-filet blocks (solid meshes) while the background is worked in open mesh. A rust scalloped border gives a finished decorative edge. The runner is designed to be elegant yet approachable, perfect for seasonal décor or as a handmade gift.

Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The construction uses a grid of 27 meshes across and repeated rows to stack leaves evenly down the center. Color changes are done using tapestry/carry technique to keep floats tidy and the back neat. The finished runner is flat and table-ready once blocked lightly.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

I love how this pattern mixes the clean geometry of filet mesh with warm, hand-painted autumn colors—each maple leaf reads clearly against the airy cream grid. The scalloped rust border adds a cozy frame that feels handcrafted and classic. Working the leaves as filled-filet blocks gives a satisfying pixel-art effect that is both meditative and visually rewarding.

Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how changing one color gives the entire runner a new personality — swap the autumn tones for winter jewel tones or soft pastels for spring and you have a fresh look instantly. Try using a soft gray instead of cream for a modern contrast, or make the leaves a single repeating color for a minimalist effect.

I like to experiment with scale: use DK yarn and a smaller hook to create a delicate, lace-like runner, or use a bulky yarn and a larger hook for a shorter, chunkier centerpiece. You can also change the number of meshes across to make a wider runner—just remember to adjust your foundation chain using the formula: ch = 3 x (number of meshes) + 2.

For extra texture, consider working the shell border in the same color as the leaves for a cohesive frame, or add a thin linen-style yarn over the top of the scallops to create a subtle two-tone edge. The structure of this pattern is very forgiving for creative changes—enjoy making it your own!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the beginning of foundation and row starts will make counting meshes difficult and shift leaf placement; mark Row 1 and repeat boundaries clearly. ✗ Tension inconsistencies between tapestry color areas and background rows create puckering; keep tension even and anchor floats frequently when needed. ✗ Not beginning color changes cleanly when entering a solid mesh will leave visible joins; change color on the last yarn-over of the prior stitch for neater edges. ✗ Failing to block the runner lightly after finishing will leave the mesh uneven; wet block or steam block gently to square the grid and open the mesh. ✗ Carrying multiple colors across long open sections without catching them every 6–8 sts will result in messy floats; weave in or catch floats discreetly every few meshes. ✗ Using too large a hook for tapestry sections will make solid blocks loose and show stuffing (if used under hot pads); use recommended hook and check gauge carefully.

Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

This elegant rectangular table runner features a classic filet crochet grid in a warm cream background with seven stylized maple leaves stacked down the center in autumn hues. A rust-colored scalloped edge frames the runner for a finished, cozy look—perfect for fall tabletops, sideboards, or holiday displays. The pattern uses simple filet techniques and colorwork (tapestry) to place the leaves precisely while keeping the overall construction flat and neat. Suitable for making multiple sizes by adjusting mesh repeats.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 300-375g in main color (Cream/Off-White)
  • 02
    50-60g in deep red (maple leaf color A)
  • 03
    30-40g in rust orange (maple leaf color B and border)
  • 04
    30-40g in golden yellow (maple leaf color C)
  • 05
    30-40g in olive green (maple leaf color D)
  • 06
    30-40g in chocolate brown (maple leaf color E)
  • 07
    Small amounts (10-15g) in coordinating colors for tiny details or to swap leaf colors (optional)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.00mm (G) crochet hook for main work (adjust for your tension)
  • 02
    3.50mm or 3.25mm hook for tighter tapestry sections (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn or tapestry needle for weaving ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Blocking mat and pins for finishing
  • 06
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 07
    Stitch markers (4-6) to mark edges/center and repeats
  • 08
    Row counter or notepad to track rows
  • 09
    Optional: lightweight spray starch or steam iron for light blocking

Progress Tracker

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— Foundation :

Row 1 :

Ch 83 (3 x 27 meshes + 2). This foundation chain creates 27 meshes across the width of the runner. Work a marker at chain 1 side and chain 83 side to keep edges straight.

Info :

The pattern is worked in filet crochet: each "mesh" equals 3 chain units in the foundation. An open mesh is made of 1 dc + ch2 (occupies 3 base chains). A solid mesh is made of 3 dc in successive spaces (also occupies 3 base chains). Use the base formula: foundation chains = 3 x number_of_meshes + 2.

Row 2 :

Turn, ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in 4th ch from hook, *ch2, skip 2 ch, dc in next ch*; rep across to end. End with dc in top of turning ch-3. (27 open meshes — 27 dc total)

Row 3 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 2: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 4 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 2. (27 dc total)

Row 5 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 2. (27 dc total)

Info :

Work these first 6 open rows to create a balanced top margin. Keep stitches even and count meshes: there should be 27 meshes each row. Place a stitch marker in the center mesh (mesh 14) to help align maple leaves vertically later.

Row 6 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 2. (27 dc total)

Row 7 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 2. (27 dc total)

Info :

We will begin the first maple leaf on Row 8. Each leaf is worked as a set of 11 consecutive rows of solid meshes arranged symmetrically across the center meshes. Leaf colors change per leaf; I'll indicate color change info before the row where the leaf starts.

Row 8 (Leaf 1, Row 1) :

Info: Change to deep red yarn for Leaf 1. Carry cream background along WS or work tapestry technique, catching floats neatly every 6–8 meshes. Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open meshes (dc, ch2) across first 13 meshes, then 1 solid mesh (3 dc) in central mesh, then 13 open meshes to edge. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 9 (Leaf 1, Row 2) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open meshes, 3 solid meshes (3 dc x 3 = 9 dc across those 3 meshes), 12 open meshes. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 10 (Leaf 1, Row 3) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open meshes, 7 solid meshes (3 dc x 7), 10 open meshes. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 11 (Leaf 1, Row 4) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open meshes, 11 solid meshes (3 dc x 11), 8 open meshes. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 12 (Leaf 1, Row 5) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 6 open meshes, 15 solid meshes (3 dc x 15), 6 open meshes. (solid=15 -> 57 dc total)

Info :

If you prefer to work each solid mesh in background color with an overlay, you can alternatively surface-slip-stitch the leaf after completing the background. The tapestry method (changing colors and carrying the unused yarn) makes the leaf part of the fabric for cleaner edges.

Row 13 (Leaf 1, Row 6) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open meshes, 11 solid meshes, 8 open meshes. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 14 (Leaf 1, Row 7) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 9 open meshes, 9 solid meshes, 9 open meshes. (solid=9 -> 45 dc total)

Row 15 (Leaf 1, Row 8) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open meshes, 7 solid meshes, 10 open meshes. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 16 (Leaf 1, Row 9) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 11 open meshes, 5 solid meshes, 11 open meshes. (solid=5 -> 37 dc total)

Row 17 (Leaf 1, Row 10) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open meshes, 3 solid meshes, 12 open meshes. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 18 (Leaf 1, Row 11) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open meshes, 1 solid mesh, 13 open meshes. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 19 :

Info: Change back to Cream for spacer rows. Ch 3, turn. Work 27 open meshes across. (27 dc total) - Begin a 3-row open spacer between leaves.

Row 20 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 19: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 21 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 19: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Info :

Between leaves use 3 fully open rows to readably separate motifs. Continue carrying background color (Cream) when not working leaf color; catch floats every 6–8 meshes to keep back tidy.

Row 22 (Leaf 2, Row 1) :

Info: Change to golden yellow yarn for Leaf 2. Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid (center), 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 23 (Leaf 2, Row 2) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 24 (Leaf 2, Row 3) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 25 (Leaf 2, Row 4) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 26 (Leaf 2, Row 5) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 6 open, 15 solid, 6 open. (solid=15 -> 57 dc total)

Info :

If you find color changes mid-row fiddly, consider doing the leaf color in small separate bobbins or join new color at the first dc of a solid group and switch back to background at the final dc of that group. Weave or tie off ends neatly on the WS as you go.

Row 27 (Leaf 2, Row 6) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 28 (Leaf 2, Row 7) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 9 open, 9 solid, 9 open. (solid=9 -> 45 dc total)

Row 29 (Leaf 2, Row 8) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 30 (Leaf 2, Row 9) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 11 open, 5 solid, 11 open. (solid=5 -> 37 dc total)

Row 31 (Leaf 2, Row 10) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 32 (Leaf 2, Row 11) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 33 :

Info: Change to Cream for spacer rows. Ch 3, turn. Work 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 34 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 33: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 35 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 33: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Info :

Leaf 3 will be rust orange; note that some leaves may be darker or lighter based on yarn dye lot. Keep track of which color you used for each leaf if repeating the runner.

Row 36 (Leaf 3, Row 1) :

Info: Join rust orange for Leaf 3. Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 37 (Leaf 3, Row 2) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 38 (Leaf 3, Row 3) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 39 (Leaf 3, Row 4) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 40 (Leaf 3, Row 5) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 6 open, 15 solid, 6 open. (solid=15 -> 57 dc total)

Info :

As you change leaf colors, always finish the last dc in the previous color and start the first dc of the new color with the new yarn on the last yarn-over of the previous stitch for a clean join. This avoids loose loops and visible knots in the front.

Row 41 (Leaf 3, Row 6) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 42 (Leaf 3, Row 7) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 9 open, 9 solid, 9 open. (solid=9 -> 45 dc total)

Row 43 (Leaf 3, Row 8) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 44 (Leaf 3, Row 9) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 11 open, 5 solid, 11 open. (solid=5 -> 37 dc total)

Row 45 (Leaf 3, Row 10) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 46 (Leaf 3, Row 11) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 47 :

Info: Change to Cream for spacer. Ch 3, turn. Work 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 48 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 47: 27 open. (27 dc)

Row 49 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 47: 27 open. (27 dc)

Info :

Leaf 4 will be olive green; if you want mirrored or offset leaves, you can shift the solid block positions by one mesh left or right—this pattern keeps all leaves centered for a classic stacked look.

Row 50 (Leaf 4, Row 1) :

Info: Join olive green for Leaf 4. Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 51 (Leaf 4, Row 2) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 52 (Leaf 4, Row 3) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 53 (Leaf 4, Row 4) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 54 (Leaf 4, Row 5) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 6 open, 15 solid, 6 open. (solid=15 -> 57 dc total)

Info :

When working solid meshes, crochet 3 dc into successive spaces (or into successive dc tops on rows above). Be mindful of tension when switching between many dc in a row and open meshes with ch2; keep a steady rhythm to avoid pulling fabric in.

Row 55 (Leaf 4, Row 6) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 56 (Leaf 4, Row 7) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 9 open, 9 solid, 9 open. (solid=9 -> 45 dc total)

Row 57 (Leaf 4, Row 8) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 58 (Leaf 4, Row 9) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 11 open, 5 solid, 11 open. (solid=5 -> 37 dc total)

Row 59 (Leaf 4, Row 10) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 60 (Leaf 4, Row 11) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 61 :

Info: Change to Cream for spacer rows. Ch 3, turn. Work 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 62 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 61: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 63 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 61: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Info :

Leaf 5 will be chocolate brown. Use the same 11-row leaf block pattern as earlier leaves. Keep track of which yarn ball you use to maintain consistent dye lot look if you plan to make multiple runners.

Row 64 (Leaf 5, Row 1) :

Info: Join chocolate brown. Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 65 (Leaf 5, Row 2) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 66 (Leaf 5, Row 3) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 67 (Leaf 5, Row 4) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 68 (Leaf 5, Row 5) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 6 open, 15 solid, 6 open. (solid=15 -> 57 dc total)

Info :

At the widest rows (solid=15), you will be working long sequences of dc. Maintain a relaxed hand and keep stitches even; use a slightly smaller hook if your dc look too loose compared with open mesh rows.

Row 69 (Leaf 5, Row 6) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 70 (Leaf 5, Row 7) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 9 open, 9 solid, 9 open. (solid=9 -> 45 dc total)

Row 71 (Leaf 5, Row 8) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 72 (Leaf 5, Row 9) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 11 open, 5 solid, 11 open. (solid=5 -> 37 dc total)

Row 73 (Leaf 5, Row 10) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 74 (Leaf 5, Row 11) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 75 :

Info: Change to Cream for spacer. Ch 3, turn. Work 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 76 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 75: 27 open. (27 dc)

Row 77 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 75: 27 open. (27 dc)

Info :

Leaf 6 will be a rust orange (warmer than the earlier rust used for leaf 3 if you want tonal variety). Continue to mark the center mesh if helpful for visual alignment.

Row 78 (Leaf 6, Row 1) :

Info: Join rust-orange (or alternate rust) yarn. Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 79 (Leaf 6, Row 2) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 80 (Leaf 6, Row 3) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 81 (Leaf 6, Row 4) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 82 (Leaf 6, Row 5) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 6 open, 15 solid, 6 open. (solid=15 -> 57 dc total)

Info :

As you approach the bottom half of the runner, keep a straight edge by ensuring the same number of open border rows exist at the bottom as at the top (we used 6 top border rows at the beginning). You can add more if a longer runner is desired.

Row 83 (Leaf 6, Row 6) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 84 (Leaf 6, Row 7) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 9 open, 9 solid, 9 open. (solid=9 -> 45 dc total)

Row 85 (Leaf 6, Row 8) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 86 (Leaf 6, Row 9) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 11 open, 5 solid, 11 open. (solid=5 -> 37 dc total)

Row 87 (Leaf 6, Row 10) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 88 (Leaf 6, Row 11) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 89 :

Info: Change to Cream for spacer rows. Ch 3, turn. Work 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 90 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 89: 27 open. (27 dc)

Row 91 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 89: 27 open. (27 dc)

Info :

Final leaf (Leaf 7) will be deep red again for visual balance. After Leaf 7 we will work the bottom open rows to match the top then add the rust scalloped border rounds.

Row 92 (Leaf 7, Row 1) :

Info: Join deep red again for Leaf 7. Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 93 (Leaf 7, Row 2) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 94 (Leaf 7, Row 3) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 95 (Leaf 7, Row 4) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 96 (Leaf 7, Row 5) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 6 open, 15 solid, 6 open. (solid=15 -> 57 dc total)

Info :

At the widest solid rows you may notice the fabric is denser; if you prefer an even drape, try a lighter worsted yarn for the solid colors or a slightly larger hook for all colors so the fabric relaxes uniformly when blocked.

Row 97 (Leaf 7, Row 6) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 8 open, 11 solid, 8 open. (solid=11 -> 49 dc total)

Row 98 (Leaf 7, Row 7) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 9 open, 9 solid, 9 open. (solid=9 -> 45 dc total)

Row 99 (Leaf 7, Row 8) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 10 open, 7 solid, 10 open. (solid=7 -> 41 dc total)

Row 100 (Leaf 7, Row 9) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 11 open, 5 solid, 11 open. (solid=5 -> 37 dc total)

Row 101 (Leaf 7, Row 10) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 12 open, 3 solid, 12 open. (solid=3 -> 33 dc total)

Row 102 (Leaf 7, Row 11) :

Ch 3, turn. Work 13 open, 1 solid, 13 open. (solid=1 -> 29 dc total)

Row 103 :

Info: Change to Cream for bottom open rows. Ch 3, turn. Work 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 104 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 103: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 105 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 103: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 106 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 103: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 107 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 103: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Row 108 :

Ch 3, turn. Repeat Row 103: 27 open meshes. (27 dc total)

Info :

These 6 bottom open rows match the 6 top open rows for a balanced margin. Check overall length now and add or remove full open rows if you want a shorter/longer runner before working the border.

Border Prep (Row 109) :

Ch 1, turn to WS. Work 1 sc in each dc across the row to make a neat base for edging (approx. 27 sc across each row of meshes; because dc count varies, simply work 1 sc in the top of each dc and 2 sc in wide clusters if needed to keep edges straight). Fasten off and turn the piece so RS faces up.

Info :

For a scalloped shell border you can work a rust-orange contrast color now. Join rust orange at any corner and work shells evenly; the following rounds assume joining rust-orange and working a shell edging along both long sides and short ends.

Round 110 (Border base) :

With rust orange, join with sl st at one short end corner. Ch 1, work 1 sc evenly around end and long edge working 1 sc in each end-row dc top and 2 sc in corner spaces; when you reach the next short end, work 1 sc in each dc top across. Slip stitch to join. (This creates an even base for scallops.)

Round 111 (Shells round 1) :

Ch 1, *skip 2 sc, work (5 dc) into next sc, skip 2 sc, sl st into next sc*; rep along long edge and mirror on opposite side; work shells evenly along short ends with 3-dc shells if space is tight. Slip stitch to join. (Evenly spaced scallops)

Round 112 (Shells round 2) :

Ch 1, sl st into center of each 5-dc shell, work (sc, ch 2, sc) into shell center for a picot-like finish or simply sl st for a clean look. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block the runner flat to open the filet mesh and set scallops neatly.

Info :

Blocking: Soak runner lightly, press between towels, pin to blocking mat to desired rectangular dimensions, and allow to dry thoroughly. Gently steam the scallops if you need sharper edges. Weave all tails to the wrong side and trim close.

Finishing Notes (Row 113 onward) :

Weave in all ends from color changes on the WS. For a neat back, weave short tails under a few stitches near joins rather than knotting. If you carried yarn across long distances, secure floats every 6–8 meshes by wrapping the carried yarn behind sts.

Info :

Optional variation: Instead of changing yarn mid-row, you can complete the entire runner in Cream and surface-embroider the leaves afterward using duplicate stitch or chain stitch to add bold, raised leaf shapes. This will create a slightly different texture but is beginner-friendly.

Assembly Instructions

  • Lay runner flat and lightly steam/block to open filet meshes and square the edges; pin edges to measure for even scallops before joining border
  • Attach border: join rust-orange at a short end corner and work 1 sc evenly around edges as the border base, placing 2 sc in corners to maintain rectangle shape
  • Work shell scallops along long edges by spacing 5-dc shells evenly; use 3-dc shells on short ends if space is limited; fasten off and weave in ends securely
  • Weave in color-change tails on the WS using a yarn needle, burying yarn ends under a few stitches rather than knotting to avoid bulk
  • Check leaf alignment: if a leaf edge looks uneven, use a few small backstitches in matching yarn to tidy edges on the wrong side
  • Lightly block again after final finishing to settle border and leaves; allow to dry flat before placing on table

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers to mark the center mesh (mesh 14) at the start and every 10–12 rows to keep leaves centered and aligned
  • 💡Carry unused yarn on the wrong side between color changes and secure floats every 6–8 meshes to avoid long loose floats
  • 💡Check your stitch counts frequently: each row must equal 27 meshes; the count of solid vs open meshes is given per row
  • 💡When switching colors mid-row, join new color on the last yarn-over of previous dc to make a neat join on WS
  • 💡Work shells on the border evenly; if the shell spacing doesn't fit perfectly, adjust by adding/subtracting one sc between shells symmetrically
  • 💡Wet or steam block carefully to square the runner and to open up the mesh so the leaf charts read crisply

This cozy table runner brings the warmth of autumn to any space with an elegant filet grid and rich maple leaf motifs. Each leaf and scalloped edge is a small celebration of color and texture—perfect for seasonal centerpieces or thoughtful handmade gifts. I hope you enjoyed each row of relaxing filet crochet and that this runner finds a special place on your table this fall. 🍁🧶

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Using the specified yarn weight and hook, this runner will measure approximately 12" wide x 36–42" long depending on blocking and exact tension. You can lengthen or shorten by adding/removing leaf repeats or open mesh rows.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. Thicker yarn (bulky) will produce a larger, denser runner while lighter yarn (DK or sport) will be more delicate and longer. Adjust hook size accordingly and check gauge; the mesh and leaf proportions will change slightly.

Should I use tapestry technique or join colors mid-row?

Either method works. Tapestry/carry technique produces an integrated fabric with small floats on the WS. Joining and fastening off gives cleaner WS but requires more weaving. Choose based on your comfort level and desired back-of-work neatness.

How do I prevent the mesh from ruffling?

Maintain consistent tension and use the recommended hook size. Blocking is essential: lightly wet block and pin the runner to square it; this opens the mesh and removes ruffles.

How much yarn will I need for each leaf color?

Approximately 30–60g per accent leaf color depending on how many leaves you make in that color. The runner as written uses about 30–60g each for leaf colors and 300–375g for the cream background.

Can I make this runner longer or shorter?

Yes—add or subtract full leaf blocks (11 rows + 3 spacer rows) to change length, or simply add more open mesh rows before the border. Keep the center alignment by maintaining the 27-mesh width.

Can I add fringe or tassels?

You can add small tassels at short ends or fringe across the short edge. Keep them sparse to avoid bulk and secure them individually to ensure they remain even after washing.

How to wash?

Hand wash gently and lay flat to dry. If yarn is machine washable, place the runner in a laundry bag and use a gentle cycle; reshape and dry flat promptly.