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Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern
4.5β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏑

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates a long, elegant table runner highlighted by five dimensional maple leaf appliques down the center and a lacy cream scalloped border. It combines a rectangular central checker striping in mustard, olive, burgundy and rust tones with crocheted leaves in coordinating colours. The runner is worked flat in rows for the center panel, leaves are made separately and appliqued, and the border is worked in rounds for a finished, lacy scallop. Suitable for gifting or seasonal dΓ©cor.

Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Unique features include textured leaf appliques (worked in relief for veins), a carried-color checked center panel for visual interest, and a scalloped lace border that frames the runner with a cozy autumn palette.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

I love how this runner brings tactile, dimensional detail to a simple rectangular piece β€” the raised maple leaves really pop against the checked center and the creamy lace border softens the overall look. I enjoy the mix of solid and variegated yarn that gives depth without complex colorwork, and the pattern is satisfying to stitch row after row.

Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how versatile this runner is β€” I often change the leaf color palette to coordinate with whatever is on my table that season. For a brighter look swap the burgundy for a teal or navy and use a lighter cream for the border.

I also recommend experimenting with yarn texture: a slightly fuzzier wool or wool-blend adds a cozy, rustic feel while a smooth acrylic gives clean stitch definition for the leaf veins. To change size, simply add or remove color-block repeats along the length and alter the foundation chain in multiples that suit your chosen border repeat.

If I want a more modern look, I’ll make fewer leaves and keep the runner in a two-tone palette β€” the shell border still adds that finished handcrafted edge that elevates the piece.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at turning points can create a crooked center panel edge; place markers at both ends of the work when working long rows βœ— Changing colors without weaving in tails as you go creates a lot of ends to manage later; carry colors or tack them down every few inches βœ— Using inconsistent tension between mosaic/check stripes will cause wavy or puckered sections; keep your tension steady and consistent across color changes βœ— Failing to block the runner after finishing causes the lace border to remain scrunched; pin and steam or wet-block gently to open the scallops βœ— Sewing leaves on before blocking may distort the border; block the center and border first, then pin and sew leaves in place βœ— Overstuffing or under-starching the runner with stiffener will change the drape; aim for light steaming/blocking rather than adding heavy stiffeners

Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

Bring warm fall color to your table with this hand-crocheted Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner. The long rectangular runner features a central checked panel in autumn shades, five textured maple leaf appliques with stems, and a delicate lacy cream scalloped border edged in variegated autumn tones. The pattern uses simple stitch repeats and color changes to create a rich, layered look that lies flat and dresses any dining or console table for the season.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 350-450g in autumn variegated main (multi-tone rust, burnt orange, mustard) used for center stripes and border accents
  • 02
    100-130g in mustard/gold (solid) for leaf appliques and some center stripe accents
  • 03
    100-120g in deep burgundy for alternate leaf appliques and stripe accents
  • 04
    80-100g in olive green for inner border rows and leaf stems
  • 05
    150-200g in cream/ivory for lacy border and edging details
  • 06
    Small amounts (10-20g each) in dark brown and burnt orange for occasional leaf contrast and stems

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5mm (7) crochet hook for main work (adjust to tension to achieve fabric similar to sample)
  • 02
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for tighter edging or small details (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving ends and sewing appliques
  • 04
    Blocking mats and rust-proof pins for blocking runner and leaves
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6) to mark row ends and applique placement
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler (to check width and spacing)
  • 08
    Optional: blocking wires for long straight edges
  • 09
    Optional: small amount of fabric-safe glue for securing applique centers if desired

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β€” Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for lengthwise runner projects but affects width and leaf size. Sample runner measures approximately 12.5" wide by 48" long unblocked. Using worsted weight yarn with a 4.5mm hook yields about 10 sts x 10 rows = 4" in sc; adjust hook if your fabric is noticeably larger or smaller.

β€” Center Panel (work flat in rows) :

Foundation :

Chain 121 (this forms the full width including turn chain, final width approx 11.5-13in depending on yarn & tension)

Row 1 :

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (120 sc)

Info :

Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each row to mark the turning side for long-row consistency. Row counts referenced below assume you are working on the right side when stated.

Row 2 :

Ch3 (counts as dc), dc in next 119 sts. Turn. (120 dc)

Row 3 :

Ch1, sc in each st across. Turn. (120 sc)

Info :

We will build a checked/striped panel by alternating blocks of 6 rows in one color then switching to the next. Carry unused yarn loosely along the WS where practical, or fasten off and weave tails.

Rows 4-9 :

Working in Color A (mustard): *Ch3, dc in each st across for Rows 4 (dc row); Rows 5-6 sc in each st; Row 7 ch3 dc across; Row 8 sc across; Row 9 sc across.* Maintain 120 sts each row. Turn at end of each row. (120)

Info :

Change to Color B (olive green) at first stitch of Row 10 by finishing last yarn over with new color. Carry colors on WS or cut and weave based on your preference for the finished runner. Placing color changes at the beginning of the row ensures a clean vertical color edge.

Rows 10-15 :

Working Color B (olive green): repeat Rows 4-9 structure but in Color B. Each row retains 120 stitches. (120)

Info :

Continue alternating 6-row blocks of color across the length to form the checker effect. The sample alternates mustard, burgundy, variegated/autumn multi, olive; feel free to repeat your color order to create a 4-color repeat every 24 rows.

Rows 16-39 :

Repeat the 24-row color-blocking sequence (mustard, burgundy, variegated, olive) to reach desired runner length for the center panel. Maintain 120 stitches each row. (120)

Info :

At this point check the length. The sample center panel used 40 rows of checker blocks total before inner border rows. Adjust the number of block repeats to your desired runner length; keep it an even number of color-block repeats for symmetrical placement of leaves.

Row 40 :

After completing the final color block, switch to the outer stripe color (dark burgundy or variegated) and work ch3, dc in each st across for a crisp stripe. (120)

Row 41 :

Ch1, sc in each st across. Turn. (120 sc)

Rows 42-44 :

Work 3 rows sc in olive green to create inner border ridge. Each row 120 sc. (120)

Info :

Use BLO on the final olive row if you want a defined ridge where the lacy border will join. Work 1 sc in each st BLO on the last inner border row to make a worked edge that the border stitches can anchor into.

Row 45 :

Ch1, sc in each st BLO across previous row to form a neat edge for attaching outer border. (120 sc)

Info :

Fasten off and weave tails at the end of the center panel if you plan to work the border separately in the round. If you prefer, leave the color attached to begin the border immediately; this pattern will present both options in the border section.

β€” Leaf Applique (Make 5 β€” identical, worked flat then sewn) :

Info :

Each maple leaf applique is made flat starting from the stem base and working up through the central shaft and lobes. The leaves in the sample are worked with worsted yarn, and stitch counts below result in a leaf roughly 4.5" wide and 6" long. Choose color for each leaf: mustard, burgundy, rust, deep green, ochre for varied fall look.

Round 1 :

With leaf color, ch 12. (12)

Round 2 :

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 9 ch. In last ch work 3 sc; now working on opposite side of foundation chain sc in next 9 ch. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc)

Info :

This creates a narrow oval stem/leaf base. Keep tension even; place a removable stitch marker at the first stitch to mark round starts as you build the leaf shaft and lobes.

Round 3 :

Ch1, sc in each st around (24). Turn if preferred and work flat to build center column for lobes.

Round 4 :

Work two rows of sc even (24 each) to widen the base slightly. (24)

Info :

We will form the central rib (vein) next and then build left and right lobes with increases and decreases to shape the maple silhouette. Use tapestry needle to draw a centre line later for added vein detail if desired.

Round 5 :

Ch1, sc in first 3 sts, inc, sc in next 6, inc, sc in next 6, inc, sc in last 3. (27)

Round 6 :

Ch1, sc in each st across (27). (27)

Round 7 :

Form small lobes: sc in first 2, (inc, sc in next 2) repeat across until 27 sts achieved. (27)

Round 8 :

Start shaping pointed lobes: *sc in next 3, dec* across to create points. (24)

Info :

Switch to FLO or BLO selectively to create raised ribbing on the leaf surface. For a textured central vein, on Round 9 work sc in each st but in the central 3 sts work sc in BLO to make a slight ridge.

Round 9 :

Sc in each st across but work central 3 sts in BLO to create a vein ridge. (24)

Round 10 :

Shape top lobes: *sc2, inc, sc4, inc, sc2, dec* across as required to form five-point lobed silhouette. End with total 28 sts. (28)

Round 11 :

Sc across 28 sts maintaining central vein by working the middle 4 sts in BLO. (28)

Round 12 :

Create pointed lobe tips: *sc in next 3, dec, skip 1, sc in next 4, dec, sc in next 3* β€” this sculpts lobes and hollows. (24)

Round 13 :

Sc around evenly (24). Add surface detail by working 1 sl st into small groups across leaf face to suggest veining. (24)

Round 14 :

Work reverse side shaping: dec in 4 strategically spaced places to form the leaf tip point: (24->20) follow pattern: (sc3, dec) x4 = 20

Round 15 :

Sc across 20 sts and fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Weave ends short of center to avoid bulk. (20)

Info :

Use surface slip-stitch lines to enhance veins: with contrasting darker yarn, embroider 3-5 veins from center to lobes using a yarn needle and the tail left from Round 15. This gives the leaf the raised, textured look visible in the photo.

β€” Leaf Stem (Make 5) :

Round 1 :

With green yarn attach at leaf base center, ch 20. (20)

Round 2 :

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch back to base. Sl st into base center. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing. (19 sc)

Info :

When sewing stems to center panel, leave about 1" of stem free before sewing leaf base; this creates the natural droop seen in the sample where leaves sit slightly above the panel.

β€” Inner Border & Transition Rows :

Round 1 :

With cream yarn and working along long edges of center panel, join with sl st to corner edge (work along foundation chain and last row edges). Ch1.

Round 2 :

Work sc evenly around the entire rectangle edge, working 3 sc in each corner stitch to turn corners smoothly. Maintain counts but expect approx 2 sc per center panel stitch along long sides and 3 sc in corner to keep shape. (Approx 480 sc around, adjust to match real row length)

Info :

If you worked the center panel separately, block it first before adding border for a flat edge. Use stitch markers at each corner to keep the border symmetrical.

Round 3 :

Ch3 (counts as dc), *ch2, sk 2 sc, (5 dc in next sc) repeat across long sides; in corners work 5 dc cluster in corner sc. End join with sl st to top of ch3. This forms a rough foundation for the outer lacy border. (Cluster repeat count will vary by side length)

Info :

Work loosely in this round so the lace has movement. If your clusters pull in too tightly, go up a hook size for the lace rounds only.

β€” Outer Lace Scalloped Border (worked in rounds) :

Round 1 :

With cream, join in any ch-2 space and work: *(3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in ch-2 space (shell), sk next cluster, sl st into next ch-2 sp* around. Join. Each shell forms a scallop. (Approx 40 shells around; adjust to match edge)

Round 2 :

Switch to autumn variegated for edge picots: sl st into center of shell, ch1, sc in same place, *ch3, sl st into top of next shell center, ch1 sc into same* repeat to create alternating small picots. Join and fasten off color. (Shell centers remain defined)

Info :

Optional: Add a tiny contrasting slip-stitch row along shell tips to make them pop. The sample alternates variegated picots on a cream shell to tie the colorwork back to the center panel.

Round 3 :

Return to cream and work one more round of 5-dc shells in every other shell to enlarge scallops at the very edge: *(5 dc in shell center, sl st in next shell center)* around. Join and fasten off. Block scallops open. (Approx 20 larger shells)

Info :

Because lace is worked in rounds after the center panel, keep the runner pinned to a blocking board to ensure scallops form evenly and the runner edges remain straight between scallops.

β€” Finishing Leaf Details & Assembly Prep :

Info :

Place the runner flat on a large surface, center the leaves visually along the center line to determine spacing. The sample places five leaves evenly spaced with approx 7-8" between leaf tops. Mark positions with pins: first leaf 4" from one short edge, last leaf 4" from the opposite short edge, remaining leaves spaced evenly between.

Step :

Pin the leaf stems down with pins through the stem and into the runner; ensure leaves sit staggered vertically to avoid crowding adjacent stripes.

Info :

Sew each leaf by bringing the applique base to the labeled spot and using mattress or whip stitch through the base rounds (Round 13-15 area) and the green stem tail through the center panel. Use matching thread/yarn color for least visible seam. Sew stems to the center squares of the checker pattern to anchor well.

β€” Detailed Stitching Guide for Applique Veins (Optional Embroidery) :

Info :

Using a tapestry needle and a strand of darker yarn, bring your thread through the center base of the leaf and stitch outward along the central ridge to create 3-5 veining lines. Use a backstitch or stem stitch across the leaf for a natural look. Anchor securely and weave tails inside the leaf before trimming.

β€” Blocking & Final Finishing :

Info :

Once all appliques are sewn, block the runner by pinning it to a flat surface and lightly steaming or wet-blocking the piece to open the lace and set leaf shapes. Allow to dry thoroughly before unpinning. Use rust-proof pins and a protective cloth if steaming.

Info :

Weave in all ends on the wrong side, trim close to the fabric, and give the runner a final light pressing with steam from a distance if needed. For extra stability you can optionally top-stitch very small invisible stitches at leaf bases to secure them further.

β€” Alternative: Work Border Joined to Panel Without Sewing :

Info :

If you prefer not to sew on outer border, pick up stitches evenly along the panel edge using a hook, then work the lace rounds directly onto the panel edge following the Outer Lace Scalloped Border instructions. Adjust shell placement to match stitch count exactly.

β€” Sizing & Adjustments :

Info :

To lengthen or shorten the runner, add or remove color-block repeats in the Center Panel section in multiples of 24 rows (one full 4-color repeat). To widen, increase the foundation chain by multiples of 4 stitches and check that the shell and cluster repeats in the border still divide evenly; you may need to adjust shell spacing slightly at corners.

Info :

If you want fewer or more leaves, re-space them evenly by measuring the total center panel length and dividing by desired leaf count+1 to center leaves evenly along the runner.

β€” Care Instructions :

Info :

Hand wash cold or gentle machine wash in a mesh bag on delicate cycle, lay flat to dry. Steam blocking will help maintain scallops. Avoid bleach and dry cleaning. If using natural fiber yarns, treat more gently and dry flat away from direct sunlight.

Assembly Instructions

  • Block the center panel flat before attaching the outer lace border to ensure straight edges and even scallops; pin to blocking board and allow to dry completely
  • Position leaves along the center line: place first leaf 4 inches from one short end and the last leaf 4 inches from the opposite short end; space remaining leaves evenly between (about 7-8 inches apart in sample)
  • Sew each leaf to the panel by mattress or whip stitch through the last rounds of the leaf base (Rounds 13-15) and into the center panel squares; secure stems by stitching the stem tail along at least 4-6 stitches of the panel for firmness
  • Attach the inner border by working a neat sc round around the perimeter, placing 3 sc in each corner to keep corner shaping even and flat
  • Work the outer lace scallops in rounds joined with sl st; if working shells directly onto the panel pick up stitches evenly to match the shell repeat count for symmetry
  • Weave in all yarn tails on the wrong side, then steam-block the entire runner with pins to open the lace and flatten the center; re-check applique placement after blocking and add any additional tiny tacking stitches if needed
  • Trim visible ends closely after weaving; for additional security add a couple of hidden backstitches with matching thread/yarn at leaf bases
  • Optionally, add non-slip pads beneath the runner when in use on polished wood to prevent slipping; avoid adhesives directly on crochet

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers at both ends of the row for long rows to keep edges straight and avoid accidental missed turning chains
  • πŸ’‘Carry or weave color tails as you change colors across blocks to reduce finishing ends; tack every 6-8 inches if carrying along the WS
  • πŸ’‘Work lace rounds looser than the center panel to allow scallops to sit naturally without pulling the center in
  • πŸ’‘Block both the leaves and the runner before final sewing for best flatness and even lace shaping
  • πŸ’‘When sewing appliques, use small, even stitches taking only a couple of working strands to keep the join invisible
  • πŸ’‘If you desire crisp shell points, work the final edge round with a slightly smaller hook to sharpen shell tips
  • πŸ’‘Check stitch counts often during border rounds; long rows magnify counting errors quickly if not corrected early
  • πŸ’‘Keep a dedicated needle and small bit of matching yarn to reinforce any spot that shows strain after first few uses

This Autumn Maple Leaf Table Runner marries classic crochet texture with seasonal color to create a cozy, welcoming table centerpiece. Every leaf and scallop adds a handcrafted detail that makes your table feel special for fall gatherings. I hope this pattern inspires you to crochet a beautiful runner for your own home or as a thoughtful handmade gift. 🧢🍁 Happy stitching and enjoy the warm colors of the season!

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Based on the specified foundation chain and sample stitch gauge, the finished runner measures approximately 12.5" wide by 48" long unblocked. Blocking may slightly increase the width and length depending on how aggressively you open the lace.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Switching yarn weights will change the final runner size and leaf proportions. If using thicker yarn, use an appropriately larger hook and reduce foundation chain to keep width proportional; conversely, use a smaller hook for lighter yarn.

Do I need to sew leaves on or can they be crocheted into the panel?

Both methods are possible. In this pattern leaves are crocheted separately and sewn on for flexibility of placement; you can also crochet leaves directly onto the center panel during the border round if you plan placements in advance and prefer fewer seams.

How much yarn will I need overall?

Approximately 900-1050 grams total across all colors in worsted weight yarn for a runner of the sample size: variegated (350-450g), cream (150-200g), solids for leaves and accents (several 80-130g skeins). Exact amounts vary with chosen yarn brand and exact size adjustments.

How do I avoid holes where leaves are sewn on?

Use small, even stitches and weave the leaf base into the panel's fabric across several stitches. Don't pull stitches too tight; anchor seams with multiple passes if necessary. Block after sewing to even out fabric.

Can I machine wash the finished runner?

Hand washing cold and laying flat to dry is recommended to preserve the lace and appliques. If the yarn label allows, gentle machine wash in a mesh bag on delicate cycle may be possible; always check a small area first.

Can I change the number and placement of leaves?

Absolutely. Re-space leaves by measuring your center panel length and dividing by the number of intervals you want; adjust the center panel's color-block repeats to create even spacing for more or fewer leaves.

How do I make the runner narrower or wider?

Widen by increasing the foundation chain in multiples of 4 (or other repeat needed for your border shell spacing) and make sure border shell repeats divide evenly across the long edge. Shorten/lengthen by adding/removing color-block repeats in the center panel.