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Festive Village Table Runner Pattern

Festive Village Table Runner Pattern
4.0★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Festive Village Table Runner Pattern

This table runner depicts a row of festive cottages and decorated trees worked in tapestry-style single crochet on an ivory background. The runner includes a narrow green inner border and a decorative scalloped red edging that gives it a polished, heirloom finish. Colors shown are ivory (main background), deep forest green, classic red, rich brown, and golden yellow accents for 'lit' windows. The runner is worked flat in joined rows and finished with rounds of edging.

Festive Village Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern uses straightforward colorwork techniques (tapestry/stranded single crochet and color changes carried along the row) combined with a scallop border for a traditional holiday look. It's designed so you can adjust length by repeating motif groups.

Why You'll Love This Festive Village Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it turns simple single crochet fabric into a storybook village with small, satisfying color changes that bring each house and tree to life. The scalloped red border adds just the right vintage holiday charm. I also appreciate that the motif structure repeats so you can make the runner longer or shorter to suit your table.

Festive Village Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Festive Village Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Festive Village Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Festive Village Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing the color placement for this Festive Village runner because the rows of tiny cottages and trees let you play with small pops of color without overwhelming the project. The tapestry-style single crochet gives a dense fabric and crisp tiny motifs that read like a woven picture.

I like to customize by changing the background from ivory to soft gray for a more subtle look, or by switching the scallop shell color to deep blue for a cooler palette. You can also shorten or lengthen the runner by repeating or omitting motif groups as needed.

For a different finish, try a simple picot edge instead of scallops, or add embroidered garlands and tiny bead lights for sparkle. I encourage you to experiment with window colors and tree tones to make this runner uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping a stitch marker at the beginning of each row can cause the runner sides to drift and distort the rectangular shape; mark your first stitch. ✗ Carrying color loosely causes loose floats that show through; keep carried yarn snug but not stretched to avoid puckering. ✗ Changing colors without twisting tails results in gaps and long loose ends; twist colors when switching to lock the float. ✗ Not blocking the finished runner leads to uneven edges; wet-block or steam-block lightly to flatten stitches and square corners. ✗ Working with inconsistent tension across rows creates visible waves; aim for consistent hook handling and even stitch size. ✗ Securing color changes only at the end of rows can cause slipping; catch floats or carry yarn when colors will be reused soon.

Festive Village Table Runner Pattern

Create a cozy holiday table runner featuring a stitched village of little houses and evergreen trees framed by a deep green inner border and a scalloped red edge. This rectangular tapestry-style runner uses single crochet colorwork and a scalloped shell edging for a classic handmade look. Perfect for a mantel, entry table, or dining table centerpiece to add warm seasonal charm.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Festive Village Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 500-600g in main background (Ivory/cream)
  • 02
    150-200g in deep red (Classic holiday red)
  • 03
    120-150g in deep forest green (Primary green for trees and border)
  • 04
    80-100g in dark brown (roofs and trunks)
  • 05
    30-40g in golden yellow (window highlights)
  • 06
    Small amounts (10-20g each) in black and lighter green for tiny details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) hook for tighter edging (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for weaving ends and sewing
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 4)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 07
    Blocking mats and pins for finishing
  • 08
    Polyester fiberfill not required (flat runner)
  • 09
    Optional: small crochet hook for detailed embroidery (2.5–3.0mm)

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— Notes and Construction Overview :

Info :

This runner is worked flat in joined rows using tapestry/stranded single crochet colorwork. The finished width is 64 stitches; the length as written is 180 rows (approximately 44-48 inches long depending on tension). You may lengthen by repeating motif groups in the center. Carry unused colors along wrong side with floats no longer than 6 stitches, or catch and twist yarns to secure.

Info :

Use a 4.0mm hook for the main panel to create a dense fabric that hides stuffing and secures colorwork. If your gauge is loose, drop to 3.75mm or 3.5mm. Keep tension consistent and use a stitch marker at the start of each row.

— Foundation and Border Rows (Top edge) :

Row 1 (Foundation) :

Fsc 64 (64)

Row 2 :

Turn, ch1, sc in each foundation stitch across in MC (64)

Row 3-6 :

Turn, ch1, 1 sc in each st in MC (64)

Info :

These initial background rows create a clean top edge. Keep even tension; use these rows as a base before starting motif groups. Place a stitch marker in the first st of Row 3 and move it each row to mark the beginning.

— Motif Structure Overview :

Info :

The central motif section is made of 7 repeating village groups across the length. Each motif group spans 24 rows of colorwork, arranged so small houses and trees appear on the MC background. Width remains 64 stitches throughout. Each motif group is followed by 2 MC spacer rows to separate motifs (except between some motifs for variety).

Info :

For color shorthand in the row instructions: MC = Ivory, R = Red (CC1), G = Green (CC2), DG = Dark Green (alternate green), BR = Brown (CC3), Y = Yellow (CC4). When a sequence lists 'MC 20' it means work 20 sc in that color, then change to the next color listed.

— Motif Group 1 (Rows 7-30) :

Row 7 :

Turn, ch1, 1 sc in each st in MC (64)

Row 8 :

MC 20, G 6, MC 16, R 8, MC 14 (64)

Row 9 :

MC 18, G 8, MC 14, R 10, MC 14 (64)

Row 10 :

MC 16, G 10, MC 12, R 12, MC 14 (64)

Info :

Rows 8–10 begin the leftmost tree and an initial red-roofed house area. Carry MC tightly behind colored stitches to avoid loose floats. When changing to a color and returning to MC within the same row, twist the yarns to trap the ends.

Row 11 :

MC 14, G 12, MC 10, R 14, MC 14 (64)

Row 12 :

MC 12, G 14, MC 8, R 16, MC 14 (64)

Row 13 :

MC 12, G 6, MC 10, BR 6, R 8, MC 22 (64)

Info :

Row 13 introduces BR for a roof or trunk accent near stitch 23–28. Use small lengths of brown and lock in by crocheting the first and last brown stitch tightly to avoid holes.

Row 14 :

MC 10, G 6, MC 8, BR 8, R 10, MC 22 (64)

Row 15 :

MC 10, DG 8, MC 6, BR 10, R 10, MC 20 (64)

Row 16 :

MC 8, DG 10, MC 6, BR 12, R 12, MC 16 (64)

Info :

At Row 16 you may embroider tiny Y stitches into window areas later. For now, focus on color transitions. Keep floats of unused colors behind the work and catch them when possible.

Row 17 :

MC 8, DG 12, MC 6, BR 12, R 14, MC 12 (64)

Row 18 :

MC 10, DG 12, MC 10, BR 8, R 12, MC 12 (64)

Row 19 :

MC 12, G 10, MC 12, BR 6, R 8, MC 16 (64)

Row 20 :

MC 14, G 8, MC 12, R 10, MC 20 (64)

Info :

Rows 19–20 begin closing the motif vertically. Check your color placement: windows (Y) have not yet been placed; we will add small yellow stitches on rows where BR and R create window shapes. You may use duplicate stitch after finishing to add crisp yellow lights rather than carrying CC4.

Row 21 :

MC 16, G 6, MC 14, R 10, MC 18 (64)

Row 22 :

MC 18, G 4, MC 14, R 10, MC 18 (64)

Row 23 :

MC 20, MC 44 (64)

Row 24 :

MC 24, MC 40 (64)

Row 25 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Row 26 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Info :

Motif group 1 is complete. The two all-MC spacer rows create breathing space between village motifs. If you wish to shorten the entire runner, omit one spacer between groups every two repeats.

— Motif Group 2 (Rows 31-54) :

Row 31 :

MC 64 (64)

Row 32 :

MC 18, R 8, MC 14, G 6, MC 18 (64)

Row 33 :

MC 16, R 10, MC 12, G 8, MC 18 (64)

Row 34 :

MC 14, R 12, MC 10, G 10, MC 18 (64)

Info :

Group 2 shifts emphasis: red-roof house sits closer to left-center of the row. Plan where you'll later add yellow window highlights to keep the motif luminous.

Row 35 :

MC 12, R 14, MC 8, BR 8, G 12, MC 10 (64)

Row 36 :

MC 12, R 16, MC 6, BR 10, G 10, MC 10 (64)

Row 37 :

MC 10, R 18, MC 6, BR 12, G 8, MC 10 (64)

Info :

Rows 35–37 build a house roof and trunk; keep brown stitches bunched so roof edge looks crisp. Use duplicate stitch later for cross-window panes if desired.

Row 38 :

MC 10, G 10, MC 10, R 12, MC 22 (64)

Row 39 :

MC 12, G 12, MC 10, R 8, MC 22 (64)

Row 40 :

MC 14, G 12, MC 10, R 6, MC 22 (64)

Row 41 :

MC 16, G 10, MC 10, R 6, MC 22 (64)

Info :

Check tension on rows with many color switches; ensure you are twisting yarns at each color change to prevent gaps. When working many small sequences, move slowly and keep floats tidy.

Row 42 :

MC 18, MC 46 (64)

Row 43 :

MC 20, MC 44 (64)

Row 44 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Row 45 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Info :

Motif group 2 complete. Use a tapestry needle and CC4 (golden yellow) to add small window highlights if the yellow would cause many floats during colorwork—this is faster and neater.

— Motif Group 3 (Rows 55-78) :

Row 55 :

MC 64 (64)

Row 56 :

MC 22, G 8, MC 12, R 8, MC 14 (64)

Row 57 :

MC 20, G 10, MC 10, R 8, MC 16 (64)

Row 58 :

MC 18, G 12, MC 8, R 10, MC 16 (64)

Info :

Group 3 creates a wider green tree cluster at left; keep tree stitches in two greens (G and DG) to add depth. Alternate G/DG within the row for natural texture.

Row 59 :

MC 16, G 12, DG 4, MC 8, R 12, MC 12 (64)

Row 60 :

MC 14, G 10, DG 6, MC 8, BR 10, R 16 (64)

Row 61 :

MC 12, G 8, DG 8, MC 6, BR 12, R 18 (64)

Info :

Rows with DG and G next to each other are perfect for using short floats; if you're crocheting tightly, pick up the alternate color frequently to avoid long floats behind the fabric.

Row 62 :

MC 12, DG 10, MC 10, BR 12, R 20 (64)

Row 63 :

MC 14, DG 12, MC 8, R 30 (64)

Row 64 :

MC 16, MC 48 (64)

Row 65 :

MC 18, MC 46 (64)

Row 66 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Row 67 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Info :

Group 3 complete. Consider using surface slip stitch in dark brown to outline roofs after assembly for a crisp look if your stitches blurred slightly when using many color switches.

— Motif Group 4 (Rows 79-102) :

Row 79 :

MC 64 (64)

Row 80 :

MC 16, R 12, MC 12, G 8, MC 16 (64)

Row 81 :

MC 14, R 14, MC 10, G 10, MC 16 (64)

Row 82 :

MC 12, R 16, MC 8, BR 8, G 12, MC 8 (64)

Info :

This motif emphasizes a red central house with a pointed roof. Keep brown roof stitches toward the center columns to create triangular roof outlines across several rows.

Row 83 :

MC 10, R 18, MC 6, BR 10, G 10, MC 10 (64)

Row 84 :

MC 8, R 20, MC 6, BR 12, G 8, MC 10 (64)

Row 85 :

MC 8, G 12, MC 8, R 10, BR 10, MC 16 (64)

Info :

Rows 85–86 create tree silhouettes and house walls. If adding a wreath or extra decoration, leave a small patch of MC to add embroidered accent later.

Row 86 :

MC 10, G 12, MC 10, R 8, MC 24 (64)

Row 87 :

MC 12, G 10, MC 12, R 10, MC 20 (64)

Row 88 :

MC 14, G 8, MC 12, R 8, MC 22 (64)

Row 89 :

MC 16, MC 48 (64)

Row 90 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Row 91 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Info :

Group 4 complete. If you prefer more contrast, swap MC for a softer cream for the background to make the village colors pop even more.

— Motif Group 5 (Rows 103-126) :

Row 103 :

MC 64 (64)

Row 104 :

MC 20, G 8, MC 12, R 8, MC 16 (64)

Row 105 :

MC 18, G 10, MC 10, R 10, MC 16 (64)

Row 106 :

MC 16, G 12, MC 8, BR 10, R 18 (64)

Info :

Group 5 makes a cozy cluster with a tall red spire; the brown stitches indicate a tall roof or chimney element. Keep transitions clean at long brown runs.

Row 107 :

MC 14, G 12, MC 8, BR 12, R 18 (64)

Row 108 :

MC 12, G 12, MC 8, BR 14, R 18 (64)

Row 109 :

MC 12, DG 14, MC 8, BR 12, R 18 (64)

Info :

At this section the motif becomes denser with DG for foliage depth. If carrying DG yields long floats, consider working the trees using small separate motifs sewn on later.

Row 110 :

MC 14, DG 12, MC 8, R 16, MC 14 (64)

Row 111 :

MC 16, DG 10, MC 10, R 12, MC 16 (64)

Row 112 :

MC 18, DG 8, MC 12, R 10, MC 16 (64)

Row 113 :

MC 20, MC 44 (64)

Row 114 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Row 115 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Info :

Group 5 complete. Use a tapestry needle and CC4 to add small square window highlights (3–4 stitches each) after finishing the panel to avoid many short floats while crocheting.

— Motif Group 6 (Rows 127-150) :

Row 127 :

MC 64 (64)

Row 128 :

MC 22, R 8, MC 12, G 6, MC 16 (64)

Row 129 :

MC 20, R 10, MC 10, G 8, MC 16 (64)

Row 130 :

MC 18, R 12, MC 8, G 10, MC 16 (64)

Info :

Group 6 mirrors earlier repeats with small variations in house placement and tree trims to create visual variety along the runner. Keep notes if you want symmetry relative to center.

Row 131 :

MC 16, R 14, MC 8, BR 8, G 12, MC 6 (64)

Row 132 :

MC 14, R 16, MC 6, BR 10, G 10, MC 8 (64)

Row 133 :

MC 12, R 18, MC 6, BR 12, G 8, MC 8 (64)

Info :

Rows with several color switches are opportunities to practice quick color changes. Work the last yarn over with the new color to begin the next sc, keeping tails small and neat.

Row 134 :

MC 12, G 12, MC 10, R 10, MC 20 (64)

Row 135 :

MC 14, G 10, MC 12, R 8, MC 20 (64)

Row 136 :

MC 16, G 8, MC 12, R 8, MC 20 (64)

Row 137 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Row 138 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Info :

Group 6 complete. If you notice any color pooling or unintended blocks, swap that repeated grouping in the next motif to balance the runner visually.

— Motif Group 7 (Rows 151-174) :

Row 151 :

MC 64 (64)

Row 152 :

MC 18, G 6, MC 16, R 8, MC 16 (64)

Row 153 :

MC 16, G 8, MC 14, R 10, MC 16 (64)

Row 154 :

MC 14, G 10, MC 12, BR 8, R 10, MC 10 (64)

Info :

Group 7 is the final motif cluster. Adjust minor color placements to create balance with Group 1 so the runner reads as a cohesive row of cottages when complete.

Row 155 :

MC 12, G 12, MC 10, BR 10, R 10, MC 10 (64)

Row 156 :

MC 12, DG 12, MC 10, BR 12, R 8, MC 10 (64)

Row 157 :

MC 14, DG 10, MC 12, R 10, MC 18 (64)

Info :

Rows 155–157 close the motif. Take a moment to secure untidy floats and weave them behind the fabric with a fine needle to prevent long trailing ends inside the runner.

Row 158 :

MC 18, DG 8, MC 12, R 10, MC 16 (64)

Row 159 :

MC 20, MC 44 (64)

Row 160 :

MC 22, MC 42 (64)

Row 161 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Row 162 (Spacer) :

MC 64 (64)

Info :

Row 163 :

MC 64 (64)

Row 164 :

MC 64 (64)

Row 165 :

MC 64 (64)

Info :

These last few rows create the bottom background border before the outer edging. Finish with even MC rows to mirror the top edge and frame the village nicely.

— Add Window Highlights and Small Details :

Info :

Now that the panel is complete, use CC4 (golden yellow) and a tapestry needle to add small filled squares of 2–4 stitches as window 'lights'. Use duplicate stitch to keep stitches tidy. Add wreaths, door knobs, or small crosses on roofs with CC3 or black thread as desired.

— Single-Round Inner Border (Attach and Work Around) :

Info :

With MC facing, pick up a 4.0mm hook and join CC2 (Forest Green) at any corner stitch with a sl st. We will work in rounds around the rectangle. Work evenly along edges placing 3 sc in each corner stitch to keep corners flat. The exact stitch count along each edge depends on blocking but you will have approximately 64 sc across the top and bottom and 162 sc along each side including corner increases (adjust if necessary).

Round 1 :

Join CC2, ch1, sc evenly around the runner, placing 3 sc in each corner; sl st to join (approximate perimeter sc count; maintain even spacing)

Info :

If your side edges feel too tight, add an extra increase in the side midpoints to keep the border flat. Move the marker after completing the first round to mark the corner increase to ensure symmetry.

— Round 2 (Setup for Scallop Edge) :

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in each st around in CC2 (forest green), placing sc in each stitch across top and bottom and one sc in each sc along the sides; sl st to join (same count as previous round)

Info :

This second green round sets the base for the red scallop edge. Keep this round snug but not tight. If you want a slightly wider green accent, add an additional round of sc in CC2 before starting red scallops.

— Scalloped Red Edge (Rounds 3–6) :

Round 3 :

Join CC1 (Red) in any st, ch3 (counts as first dc), *skip 2 sts, 5 dc in next st (shell), skip 2 sts, dc in next st; rep from * around until you reach a corner, in corner work (5 dc, ch1, 5 dc) to create a rounded corner; sl st to join.

Info :

The scallop uses dc-based shells to create a decorative exterior. Adjust shell spacing if your perimeter stitch count is not divisible evenly; allow a slightly larger shell in a corner to maintain symmetry.

Round 4 :

Ch1, sc in each dc and between shells around in CC1, placing 3 sc in the center of each shell to anchor; sl st to join.

Round 5 :

Ch2, *5 dc in next sc (over the center of shell), sk 2 sc, dc in next sc; rep from * around, working (5 dc, ch1, 5 dc) in corners; sl st to join.

Round 6 (Finish Scallops) :

Ch1, sc around in CC1 through the top loops of the shells and dc, working neat tidy sl st join; fasten off and weave ends in.

Info :

For a deeper scallop, repeat Rounds 3–5 once more. Press lightly with a steam iron (no direct contact) to open scallops and ensure they curve outward uniformly before final blocking.

— Finishing and Blocking :

Info :

Block the runner to measurements: width = approx 64 sts (about 10.5-12 inches wide depending on yarn), length = approx 180 rows (approx 44-48 inches). Wet block gently or pin and lightly steam. Pin scallops into smooth half-moon shapes for an even edge. Weave in ends on the wrong side, trimming close after securing with a few back-and-forth stitches.

Info :

If any windows need brightening, use CC4 and duplicate stitch now: small 2x2 or 3x2 squares look like lit windows. Add tiny French knot-style embroidered wreaths with dark green and red if desired.

— Optional Embellishments :

Info :

Add gold metallic thread sparsely to represent sparkle on trees, or sew on a few tiny seed beads for window shimmer. Keep embellishments flat to keep the runner usable under dishes and centerpieces.

Assembly Instructions

  • Weave in all loose ends on the wrong side using a yarn needle, hiding tails within nearest colorwork floats and trimming short.
  • Work the inner green border: join CC2 at any corner and sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in each corner to keep the edges square before starting scallops.
  • Attach the red scallop edging by working shells (5 dc clusters) in CC1 around the outer green border; place larger shells at corners for balanced curvature.
  • Block the entire runner to measurements by pinning to a blocking mat and gently steaming or wet-blocking to relax and square the edges.
  • Use duplicate stitch with CC4 to add tiny yellow windows where desired, stitching through the MC fabric so stitches sit on top without adding bulk.
  • Secure any beads or small embellishments with short lengths of thread through the runner from the wrong side and knot securely; reinforce with a dab of fabric glue if necessary.
  • After finishing, press lightly from the wrong side with a cloth barrier if necessary and allow runner to dry completely before use.
  • Store flat or rolled to prevent creasing; avoid heavy weight on scalloped edges to keep shape intact.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each row to avoid counting errors and maintain proper rectangular shaping.
  • 💡Work color changes by completing the last yarn over of the stitch with the new color to keep joins neat and secure.
  • 💡Keep stranded floats behind the fabric shortened to 4–6 stitches; twist yarns when changing frequently to trap yarn and prevent long floats.
  • 💡When joining rounds for the border, place three sc in each corner to avoid puckering or pulling in the rectangle corners.
  • 💡Block the runner after completion to square the edges and open the scallops; blocking makes a big visual difference in the final piece.
  • 💡Use a slightly smaller hook for colorwork than recommended on the yarn label to ensure a dense fabric that hides stuffing (if used) and secures floats.
  • 💡If adding beads or embroidery, attach them after blocking to ensure proper placement and spacing.

This Festive Village table runner brings a warm, handmade touch to your holiday décor. The stitched cottages and evergreen trees look charming flanked by the deep green inner border and a playful scalloped red edge. Each color change and tiny embroidered window adds personality and depth—it's a delightful, meditative project to make and to gift. 🧶🏡🎄

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Using worsted weight yarn and a 4.0mm hook, the finished runner measures approximately 10–12 inches wide by 44–48 inches long. Exact size depends on tension and optional repeats of motif groups.

Can I change the size of the runner?

Yes. To change width, adjust the foundation fsc in multiples to keep motifs centered (increase/decrease in multiples of the motif width, here built on a 64-stitch foundation). To lengthen, repeat additional motif groups (each group is 24 rows plus spacer rows).

Is tapestry crochet difficult for beginners?

Tapestry single crochet is accessible to confident beginners who are comfortable changing colors. Keep floats short and practice twisting yarns at color changes. Duplicate stitch is an alternative for tiny highlights.

How should I care for the finished runner?

Hand wash gently or machine wash on delicate in a laundry bag using cool water. Lay flat to dry. Avoid heavy heat which may distort scallops; store flat or rolled to maintain shape.

Can I embroider windows instead of crocheting them?

Absolutely. Using duplicate stitch with CC4 (golden yellow) after completing and blocking the runner will produce neat window squares without many short floats during crochet.

What if my stitch count is off?

Unravel to the last row where the count was correct and rework from there. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of every row to keep counts accurate; row-by-row counting is essential in tapestry work.

Can I make this runner washable for family use?

Use a washable worsted acrylic yarn and avoid metallic threads or glued beads. Test a small swatch to check colorfastness before making full runner; machine-washable acrylic yarns are a practical choice.

How to prevent holes at color transitions?

Always finish the last yarn-over of the current stitch with the next color and pull up a loop snugly. For small single stitches in contrast color, consider duplicate-stitching them later instead of crocheting them in to avoid gaps.