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Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern

Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern
4.2★ Rating
3-5 Hours Time Needed
4.0K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Afternoon Project

Takes 3-5 hours, perfect for an afternoon or evening of relaxing crochet.

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Autumn Vibes

Earthy Halloween charm with pumpkin heads, alternating orange and black spirals, perfect for seasonal decorating.

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About This Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates a set of Halloween spiral hanging ornaments made from two narrow crocheted tubes twisted together beneath a small stuffed pumpkin head. The face is embroidered in contrasting black for a classic jack-o-lantern look, and orange/black pearl beads are sewn along the spiral for subtle shine. Each ornament finishes with a jute hanging loop and a small bat charm at the base for added whimsy. The design is compact, portable and perfect as a garland, tree ornament or gift topper.

Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The construction uses familiar amigurumi techniques—magic ring starts, tight single crochet, simple increases and decreases—to build the round pumpkin head and the tubular spirals. The tubes are worked separately then twisted and secured, making assembly clean and adjustable.

Why You'll Love This Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines a classic pumpkin face with a playful spiral tail—two neat techniques in one small project. The alternating orange and black spiral is visually striking and the tiny bead accents and bat charm give it personality. I also appreciate that each piece is quick to make, so you can assemble a whole garland in an afternoon.

Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved putting together this spiral pumpkin ornament concept because it combines two fun techniques: amigurumi rounding for the head and narrow tube construction for the spiraled tail. The alternating orange and black is classic Halloween, but the structure lets you make many variations.

I often change bead colors and charms depending on the theme—swap the bat for a tiny star, or use metallic thread for a glam version. You can also adjust size by using fingering yarn with a smaller hook for delicate tree ornaments or bulky yarn and larger hooks for oversized porch decorations.

If you want to personalize each piece, try stitching initials into the pumpkin or add tiny felt accessories like hats and scarves. The spiral's twist tightness is forgiving, so you can make chunky or slim spirals just by changing the tube length and how tightly you twist them together.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned spirals and lopsided pumpkin faces; always mark the first stitch of each round. ✗ Crocheting too loosely for amigurumi tubes causes stuffing to show through and floppy spirals; use a slightly smaller hook for firmer fabric. ✗ Not adding beads during construction leads to awkward sewing-in later; attach pearl beads while the spiral tube is open enough to access stitches. ✗ Overstuffing the head can distort facial embroidery placement and make the neck lumpy; stuff gradually and test face placement before closing. ✗ Ignoring the twist tension when joining two tubes can produce a loose or overly tight spiral; twist the tubes and test the shape before final sewing. ✗ Using discontinuous yarn carries without securing creates messy inside tails; carry neatly or fasten off and weave tails inside each tube.

Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern

Create a spooky-fun Halloween spiral hanging ornament featuring a smiling jack-o-lantern head, two twisted tubular spirals in orange and black, tiny bead accents and a dangling bat charm. This pattern uses simple amigurumi shaping for the pumpkin head and two narrow crocheted tubes that are twisted together to form the spiral tail. The finished ornament hangs from a rustic jute loop and makes a charming seasonal garland or gift topper.

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Halloween Spiral Hanging Ornament Amigurumi Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) cotton or acrylic, approximately 50-70g in orange (pumpkin and one spiral)
  • 02
    50-70g in black (face detailing and alternate spiral)
  • 03
    Small amount (10-15g) in contrasting black for facial embroidery if not using black yarn for tube
  • 04
    Optional: small amount of green or brown for stem/top if you prefer a colored stem

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (use 3.25mm if you prefer a tighter fabric)
  • 02
    2.75-3.0mm hook for very tight detail work (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing and embroidery
  • 04
    Small stitch markers (3-6)
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (small amount per ornament)
  • 06
    Small orange and black beads (6-10 per ornament)
  • 07
    Jute twine for hanging loop
  • 08
    Small jump rings and short chain links for bat charm attachment
  • 09
    Bat charms or similar dangly charms (one per ornament)
  • 10
    Round nose pliers and chain-nose pliers for jewelry findings
  • 11
    Scissors
  • 12
    Pins for assembly
  • 13
    Optional: wired floral stem or thin craft wire for a lightly poseable spiral core (fold ends over)

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— Notes :

Info :

This pattern creates one hanging ornament. All pieces are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise noted. Use a slightly smaller hook than recommended for your yarn if you want a tighter amigurumi fabric so stuffing does not show through. Work right-handed or left-handed following the same stitch counts. Numbers in parentheses at the end of each round indicate total stitches for that round.

Info :

Gauge is not critical, but a tightly worked single crochet will give the best results. Keep track of your rounds with a stitch marker and move it up each round. I recommend placing safety pins to mark bead positions once the spiral is assembled.

— Pumpkin Head :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Place face reference: mark the front center of the pumpkin. Eyes will be embroidered or sewn between rounds 12–13 roughly 10–12 stitches apart, depending on desired expression. If using safety eyes (not recommended for small ornaments), position them between rounds 12–13 and secure with washers before stuffing.

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

Begin stuffing the head lightly but firmly. For a round, smooth pumpkin shape, add small amounts of fiberfill and distribute evenly while you continue working. If you plan to embroider the face with yarn, leave a little extra space so stitches sit flush.

Round 16 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 17 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 18 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 19 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

At this stage check face placement again; adding facial embroidery now will be on a stable surface. If you want a more pronounced pumpkin ribbing effect, using surface slip stitches or a contrasting thread across vertical lines at thirds can help define segments.

Round 20 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 21 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 22 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail (~20–30 cm) for sewing to the neck/connector. Finish stuffing firmly but not overstuffed to avoid a distorted face. Use a blunt needle to close the hole neatly; weave tail through the 6 remaining stitches and pull snugly, then weave further inside and trim close.

Round 23 :

Optional: If you prefer a small stem, reattach yarn at the top center and crochet 6 sc in a magic ring, then 6 sc around for 2–3 rounds to create a short stubby stem. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Info :

Embroider the face at this point if you didn't use safety eyes. Using black yarn and a tapestry needle, embroider two triangle eyes and a triangular nose. For the mouth, use satin stitch or surface embroidery to form the smiling jack-o-lantern grin. Keep stitches small and tidy for the best look.

— Neck Connector (small collar above spirals) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 6 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to bottom of pumpkin head. This small collar will be used to join the top of the spiral tubes and hide the raw join. If you made a stem, position the collar beneath the stem.

Info :

Before sewing collar to the head, insert a loop of jute twine folded in half through the collar so the cord forms the hanging loop; stitch the collar around the base of the loop to secure it. Make sure the loop length is even and allow extra length for knotting.

— Spiral Tube A (Black) - Make 1 :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

This narrow tube is worked as a continuous spiral tube. Keep rounds even to maintain a smooth tube. The diameter of this tube is approximately 2–2.5 cm depending on yarn/hook. We will work 50 rounds to reach a length that twists nicely beneath the pumpkin.

Round 6-10 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 5 rounds (18)

Info :

If you plan to incorporate small beads into the spiral, thread them onto a short tail or secure them with a small stitch later. I prefer to stitch beads on as I go: every 6–8 rounds sew a bead to the outside ridge with matching thread.

Round 11-20 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 10 rounds (18)

Info :

Keep the tube unstuffed or very lightly stuffed with tiny amounts of fiberfill every 10–12 rounds to keep shape and prevent flattening when twisted. Use small tufts so the tube remains flexible.

Round 21-30 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 10 rounds (18)

Info :

Add bead accents now if desired. For halloween style, small orange pearls placed at regular intervals along the black tube look great. Secure each bead with thread and a few back-and-forth stitches through the bead hole and the crochet fabric.

Round 31-40 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 10 rounds (18)

Info :

When you reach the last third of the tube, plan the bottom cap and attachment point for the bat charm. Leave enough tail to sew the bottom cap and add jump ring hardware.

Round 41-46 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 6 rounds (18)

Round 47 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 48 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (6)

Round 49 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to bottom cap and attaching jump ring. If you wish, insert small bit of stuffing before closing so the tube tapers smoothly to the end.

Info :

This tube will be twisted with the orange tube to create the spiral. Keep this tube flat on the table when both are complete and twist by hand to control tightness; pin with sewing pins to test spiral before final sewing.

— Spiral Tube B (Orange) - Make 1 :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Work this second tube exactly the same length as tube A so they twist smoothly together. Use identical stitch counts and rounds. For visual interest, carry a tail for each bead placement so you can add matching orange beads on the orange strand where desired.

Round 6-10 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 5 rounds (18)

Round 11-20 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 10 rounds (18)

Info :

Alternate where you place beads between the two tubes for a balanced look. For example, offset beads by about 3–4 rounds between the tubes so they appear staggered on the final spiral.

Round 21-30 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 10 rounds (18)

Round 31-40 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 10 rounds (18)

Round 41-46 :

1 sc in each st (18) — work 6 rounds (18)

Round 47 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 48 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (6)

Round 49 :

Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to bottom cap and connecting to the black tube end. Insert small amount of stuffing to shape the taper and avoid gaps when twisted.

Info :

When both tubes are finished, block them lightly by laying flat and gently shaping. If your yarn is synthetic, a steam block (not pressing) can help even stitches. Avoid heavy wet blocking which can distort stuffing distribution.

— Bottom Cap (to attach bat charm) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 6 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (6) — do not fasten off yet

Info :

Use the long tail to sew this cap to the joined ends of the two tubes. You will insert a jump ring through the very tip of the cap or sew the cap around a small metal loop so you can attach a jump ring and chain to hang the bat charm.

— Bead Placement and Decorative Embellishments :

Info :

Recommended bead schedule: add one bead to the black tube every 8–10 rounds and one bead to the orange tube offset by 4–5 rounds. Use small seed beads or 3–4 mm faux pearls. Sew beads through the tube fabric with matching thread and knot securely on the inside of the tube.

Info :

To sew beads while the tube is live, push the needle under one or two SC loops on the outside surface, stitch through bead hole and back through a neighboring stitch, then tie a small knot and bury it inside. This is tidier than attaching beads after closing the tube.

— Assembly Instructions (joining head, collar, tubes and cap) :

Info :

Lay both tubes parallel and twist them together to form a spiral. For a 2-strand spiral, twist until the tubes wrap naturally in a 360-degree helix every roughly 8–10 rows depending on desired tightness. Pin the spiral shape on a blocking surface or table using T-pins, aligning bead placements symmetrically.

Info :

Sew the top ends of both tubes into the neck collar: Using the long tails from collar and tube tops, stitch through the collar stitches into the first round of each tube, distributing stitches evenly so tubes are centered opposite each other under the collar. Secure with tight whip stitches and weave ends into the collar/tube interior.

Info :

Attach the collar (with the jute loop already anchored) to the bottom of the pumpkin head. Whip stitch around the collar, going through the last round of the head and through the collar rounds. Adjust hanging loop so pumpkin faces forward when suspended.

Info :

Sew the bottom cap onto the tapered ends of both tubes together, bring the long tails through the cap stitches and tighten to close gaps. Before fully closing, feed a small jump ring or the head of a jewelry eye pin into the cap center so you can attach the chain and bat charm later.

Info :

Attach a short chain or jump ring to the cap and fasten the bat charm with a split ring or jump ring. Use pliers to close rings securely. Conceal raw ends inside the cap by weaving them through the cap's internal stitches.

— Final Finishing :

Info :

Weave all remaining yarn tails into the interior of tubes and head. Trim close. If beads are loose, secure with a dab of fabric glue under each bead from the inside of the fabric for extra insurance. Test the hanging balance and adjust twist tension if the ornament leans.

Info :

Optionally add a tiny dab of black paint or embroidery varnish to bead threads to keep them tidy. Make several ornaments and join their hanging loops together to create a festive garland for mantels or doorways.

Info :

Care instructions: spot clean with a damp cloth. Avoid soaking if beads or hardware may rust. Store flat or hanging to preserve spiral shape.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head to collar: position collar centrally under head and pin so the pumpkin face sits forward; whip stitch through the bottom round of the head and all collar rounds evenly around, using the long tail from the collar to make approximately 12–16 stitches for a secure join.
  • Join tube tops to collar: pin tube openings into the collar opening facing opposite directions then stitch through the collar and first rounds of both tubes, distributing 12–16 stitches to each tube. Ensure tubes are centered and aligned before tightening stitches.
  • Twist and pin spirals: lay both tubes flat and gently twist them into a spiral. Pin at several points until you achieve the desired tightness and rhythm. Sew tubes together at 3–5 discrete points along their length (use small invisible stitches) to ensure the spiral holds its shape.
  • Attach bottom cap: gather tube ends and place inside bottom cap; use the long tails to sew the cap closed around both tube ends. Before finishing, slip a small jump ring into the cap center and secure by sewing tightly around it.
  • Add bat charm: use a small jump ring or short chain to connect the bat charm to the jump ring inserted into the cap. Close all jewelry rings securely with pliers.
  • Sew bead accents: if beads were not sewn during tube construction, stitch them now at evenly spaced points. Tie knots on the inside and weave tails several rounds inside tube to hide ends.
  • Secure hanging loop: tie and knot the jute loop at the collar interior, then reinforce by stitching collar rounds over the loop base. Hide knot ends inside the head when sewing the collar to the head.
  • Final adjustments: check face embroidery, tuck any stray stuffing inside the head, and test balance. Trim any visible yarn tails and lightly steam-block if necessary to even stitches.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and keep the spiral tube circumference consistent.
  • 💡Stuff sections gradually; add small amounts of fiberfill every 8–12 rounds for tubes to maintain shape without making them stiff.
  • 💡When adding beads, secure them with multiple passes of thread and hide the knot inside the tube to prevent snags.
  • 💡For a tight amigurumi finish use a hook 0.25–0.5mm smaller than yarn label recommendation.
  • 💡Pin and test the spiral twist before permanently sewing tubes together to choose the preferred tightness and spacing.
  • 💡When sewing the bottom cap, insert a metal loop before closing to avoid having to puncture the fabric later for hardware.
  • 💡For a child-safe ornament, sew beads tightly or skip beads and use embroidered dots instead; do not use small detachable charms for toys.
  • 💡Weave in ends at least 3–4 cm inside the piece to prevent unravelling and to make seams neater.

This Halloween ornament pattern brings together classic pumpkin charm and modern spiral playfulness into a small, giftable piece. Each section is simple enough to work quickly but offers decorative opportunities—beads, charms and embroidery—to personalize every ornament. The jute hang loop and little bat finishing touch make each one perfect for seasonal garlands or tree decorations. 🎃🦇 Enjoy the cozy rhythm of creating a set and sharing them as tiny seasonal treasures. Happy crocheting! 🍁

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, a single finished ornament measures approximately 8–10 inches (20–25 cm) from the top of the hanging loop to the bottom of the bat charm. The pumpkin head is roughly 2.5–3 inches (6–8 cm) in diameter.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use any yarn weight, but remember to adjust your hook size accordingly (generally 1–2 sizes smaller than the yarn recommendation for tight amigurumi fabric). Thicker yarn will make a larger, fluffier ornament; thinner yarn will make a smaller, more delicate ornament.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work beautifully. Embroidered eyes are recommended for small ornaments and items for children since there are no small detachable parts. Safety eyes look professional but should be used only if the ornament is not intended for small children.

How much stuffing will I need?

For one ornament, approximately 10–20 grams of polyester fiberfill should be sufficient for the pumpkin head and very light stuffing in the tubes. If you plan to make a garland of 6 ornaments, consider a 100g bag of fiberfill to be safe.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

This pattern does not include limbs, but if you want the spiral to be lightly poseable, insert a thin craft wire (folded and with ends secured) through the core of one or both tubes before stuffing. Bend gently to shape and ensure ends are folded back to avoid sharp points.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice a counting error, it’s best to unravel back to where the count was correct. Using a stitch marker at the start of each round helps prevent counting issues. For tubes, maintaining the same stitch count across both tubes is important for even spiraling.

How do I prevent holes when stuffing?

Work with tight, consistent tension and use a hook slightly smaller than the yarn recommendation. When stuffing, add small amounts of fiberfill at a time and distribute evenly rather than jamming a large piece of stuffing in at once.

Can I customize colors and details?

Absolutely! Feel free to use any color combinations you love—purple and black, lime and black, or even metallic yarn for a sparkly ornament. You can also switch bead colors, use different charms, or add a tiny felt hat or scarf for more personality.