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Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern

Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern
4.0β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏑

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates the pictured Lavender and Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner: four round daisy medallions joined vertically and edged with a delicate scalloped lavender border. The runner alternates textured lavender rounds with open cream lace rounds to create a balanced, airy design. The motifs are worked individually in concentric rounds and joined with slip-stitch joins and small bridges, then finished with a double-row scalloped border in lavender.

Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design uses simple clusters, chains and shell stitches to form petals and lacy spaces, making it approachable for intermediate crocheters. Subtle color changes give the runner its signature two-tone look and make each daisy pop against the neutral background.

Why You'll Love This Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines classic doily-style lace with modern color blocking β€” the lavender rounds feel fresh and the cream spaces keep it light. I appreciate how the motifs are forgiving to stitch tension, so the runner comes together beautifully even if you’re not aiming for perfection. The scalloped lavender edge is my favorite detail; it brings a charming, finished look that feels both vintage and current.

Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how easy it is to customize this runner by swapping colors β€” try mint and ivory for a fresh coastal look or mustard and cream for autumn warmth.

I also like experimenting with yarn weight: use sport-weight cotton and a 3.5mm hook for a more delicate doily-style runner, or a bulky cotton with a 5.0mm hook for a chunkier table statement. You can change the number of motifs to suit your table length or even join motifs side-by-side for a larger centerpiece.

I often add little crocheted leaves or a thin ribbon threaded through the outer scallops for a romantic touch. Don’t be afraid to mix in a soft metallic thread in the final border for a subtle shimmer at holiday time β€” small changes make each runner uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned petals and irregular motif shape; always mark the first stitch. βœ— Changing color too early or not fastening off cleanly causes uneven joins; finish the last stitch of a round before switching colors. βœ— Using inconsistent tension between motifs creates mismatched sizes; block motifs to even out small differences. βœ— Joining motifs with too-tight joins distorts lace openings; leave small chain bridges to maintain airflow in the lace. βœ— Not counting chains in shell repeats leads to extra or missing petals; write down repeats and count each segment as you go. βœ— Failing to press or lightly block each motif before joining can make edges uneven and joining more difficult.

Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern

A delicate table runner made of four connected daisy-style crochet motifs in soft lavender and creamy neutral. Each round floral motif features layered petals, openwork lace, and a scalloped lavender edge for a vintage-inspired look. Perfect as a centerpiece for spring or a light, coastal table accent.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Lavender And Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), approximately 180-220g in Lavender (accent color) β€” about 3-4 skeins of 50g depending on brand
  • 02
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), approximately 220-260g in Cream (main color) β€” about 4-5 skeins of 50g depending on brand
  • 03
    Small amounts (10-20g) of matching yarn for joining and weaving in ends

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work (choose hook to meet gauge and drape)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for firmer rounds or tighter detail (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing joins
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (pack of 6+)
  • 06
    Blocking board and pins or blocking mats (for motif shaping)
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Optional: spray bottle for wet blocking
  • 09
    Optional: small crochet hook (2.5-3.5mm) to tidy picots

Progress Tracker

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β€” Overview :

Info :

This pattern builds one round floral motif in concentric rounds, then repeats it to make four identical motifs which are joined vertically. Finally a continuous scalloped lavender border is worked around the long runner. All rounds are crocheted in the round; place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to track round starts. Gauge is flexible; finished runner should measure approximately 36-38in (92-97cm) long and 10-11in (25-28cm) wide using worsted cotton and the recommended hook.

β€” Motif (Make 4) :

Round 1 :

With Lavender, make a magic ring. Ch3 (counts as dc), 11 dc into ring. Tighten ring and join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (12)

Round 2 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch3, sc in next dc; rep from * around to create 12 ch-3 spaces and 12 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc +12 ch-3 sps)

Round 3 :

Change to Cream. Sl st into first ch-3 sp, ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch2, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp (shell made in ch-3 sp), *sk next sc, in next ch-3 sp work (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc); rep from * around for a total of 12 shells. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (48 dc +12 ch-2 sps)

Info :

Change to Cream by completing the final yarn-over of the last lavender stitch with cream. Carry ends to the back and weave in later. Work shells evenly; shells create petal bases for next rounds.

Round 4 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch5, sc in middle of next shell (4th dc of shell); rep from * around to create 12 ch-5 loops. Join with sl st. (12 sc +12 ch-5 sps)

Round 5 :

In each ch-5 space work: (sc, ch1, 7 dc, ch1, sc) β€” a tall petal cluster. Join with sl st to first sc. This produces 12 tall petal clusters. (12 petals; 84 dc total this round)

Info :

Gently spread petals outward with your fingers to keep shape even. If petals slump, block motifs before proceeding to later rounds.

Round 6 :

Change to Lavender. Sl st to middle top of a petal (center ch-1 between dc). Ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same ch-1 sp, *ch2, sk petal top, in next petal ch-1 sp work (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc); rep from * around for 12 shell clusters sitting between petals. Join with sl st. (48 dc +12 ch-2 sps)

Round 7 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch4, sc in top of next petal middle; rep from * around to make 12 ch-4 loops. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc +12 ch-4 sps)

Round 8 :

In each ch-4 space work: (sc, 5 dc, sc). This forms secondary petals and expands the motif. Join with sl st. (12 small petals; 60 dc this round)

Info :

At this stage your motif should be opening into a 4-5in diameter circle depending on tension. If motif is smaller/larger slightly adjust hook for future motifs to match sizes.

Round 9 :

Change to Cream. Ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same st, ch3, *in next ch-4 sp work (3 dc, ch3, 3 dc), ch3; rep from * around to create 12 larger fans separated by ch-3 loops. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch3. (72 dc total, 12 ch-3 sps)

Round 10 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch6, sc in center of next fan (center ch-3 between fan shells); rep from * around to create 12 ch-6 loops. Join with sl st. (12 sc +12 ch-6 sps)

Round 11 :

In each ch-6 space work: (sc, ch1, 9 dc, ch1, sc) to form fully opened petal-lace sections. Join with sl st. This expands motif to its mid-size. (108 dc this round)

Info :

Keep tension consistent across long chains. If your chains draw in, block motifs later to even spacing. Use stitch marker to mark the 12 o'clock position for easier alignment later.

Round 12 :

Change to Lavender. Sl st into the top of a dc to locate a spacing between petals. Ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same space, *ch4, 3 dc cluster in the ch-1 space between petals, ch4, 3 dc cluster in next petal base; rep from * around forming 12 shell clusters with ch-4 separation. Join with sl st. (72 dc plus chains)

Round 13 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch2, sk 3 dc, (sc, ch4, sc) in next cluster top, ch2, sk 3 dc, sc in next ch-4 space; rep from * around to create lacy chain bridges and small picot-like arches. Join with sl st. (24 sc + 12 ch-4 sps + chain bridges)

Round 14 :

Change to Cream. In each (sc, ch4, sc) space work: (sc, 7 dc, sc) to form larger scalloped lace petals outward; where there are ch-2 bridges work sc to maintain spacing. Join with sl st. (84 dc this round)

Info :

At this point the motif should measure roughly 6-7in across. If making motifs to match the photo, maintain the two-color alternation as noted: inner lavenders, outer cream rounds continue to give the runner its alternating look.

Round 15 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch5, sc in center top of next large scallop; rep from * around to create 12 ch-5 arches. Join with sl st. (12 sc +12 ch-5 sps)

Round 16 :

Change to Lavender. In each ch-5 space work: (sc, ch1, 11 dc, ch1, sc) β€” a full lavender petal band. Join with sl st. (132 dc this round)

Info :

These tall petal bands create the pronounced lavender rings visible in the photo. Keep stitches loose enough so the motif lies flat β€” if it cups, block flat with steam or wet blocking.

Round 17 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch3, sc in center of next lavender petal; rep from * around to create 12 ch-3 loops. Join with sl st. (12 sc +12 ch-3 sps)

Round 18 :

Change to Cream. In each ch-3 loop work: (sc, 5 dc, sc) to form a delicate cream lace band separating lavender rings. Join with sl st. (60 dc this round)

Round 19 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch4, sc in top of next lace band center; rep from * around to create 12 ch-4 arches. Join with sl st. (12 sc +12 ch-4 sps)

Round 20 :

Change to Lavender. In each ch-4 space work: (sc, 7 dc, sc) creating final lavender petal clusters that will anchor outer scallops. Join with sl st. (84 dc this round)

Info :

Check motif for flatness and symmetry. If a motif is slightly larger or smaller, measure and adjust hook size on subsequent motifs to match all four to within 0.25in (6mm).

Round 21 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch6, sc between clusters; rep from * around to make 12 ch-6 loops that will become scallop bases. Join with sl st. (12 sc +12 ch-6 sps)

Round 22 :

In each ch-6 space work: (sc, ch1, 13 dc, ch1, sc) to make pronounced scallop forms. Fasten off, leaving tail for weaving if preferred. Block motif gently to shape outer scallops uniformly. (156 dc this round)

Info :

Make 4 identical motifs following Rounds 1-22. Block all motifs flat and pin to identical measurements (width of one motif across scallops, and spacing between motif centers). Allow to dry completely before joining to get crisp lacework and even joins.

β€” Joining Motifs (Vertical Join Sequence) :

Info :

Place motifs in a column with scallops alternately aligned so scallops of neighboring motifs nest slightly. Join motifs using slip-stitch or single crochet join through the back loops of scallop top stitches and through the corresponding spacing on adjacent motif. The join described below creates small chain bridges to echo the lace feel of the piece.

Round 1 (Joining Step 1) :

Lay Motif A and Motif B with right sides up where their edges overlap by one scallop depth. With Cream yarn held, work from the wrong side: align a ch-6 scallop of Motif A with the opposing ch-6 scallop of Motif B and insert hook through outermost picot or top of a scallop cluster on both motifs. Sl st through both motifs to join at that point. Work a sl st join every 6th stitch around the overlapping scallop area for a total of 6 secure joins per adjoining scallop pair. Repeat for all scallop pairs where motifs meet. Fasten off and weave ends.

Info :

Alternative join method: use mattress stitch with cream yarn for an almost invisible seam. If you prefer visible decorative joins, use lavender to highlight the joined spots with small slip-stitch loops.

Round 2 (Joining Step 2) :

With motifs laid flat and sequentially aligned (A-B-C-D), work small 3-ch bridges between corresponding chain spaces across the seams to stabilize the runner. Identify the center top of each scallop on Motif A and corresponding center top on Motif B and create a ch-3 loop anchored with sl st on each motif (sl st into the same position on each motif then ch3, sl st into same spot on other motif to create tiny bridge). Repeat for each scallop column join (typically 12 small bridges per motif pair). This adds lacy connections without stiffening the piece.

Info :

Check alignment frequently: motifs should be square to one another with centers in a straight line. If one motif sits higher, gently unpin and re-block slightly to match heights before final sewing.

Round 3 (Stabilizing Row) :

Once all pairs are joined, with Cream yarn, pick up along the seam line and work a round of sc across the seam edge where motifs meet: sc across joins on both sides of the seam to reinforce. When you reach each bridge, work (sc, ch2, sc) in the bridge to keep lacy look. Fasten off and weave ends. This creates a neat internal seam that is also decorative.

β€” Outer Border and Scalloped Edge :

Info :

With the entire runner assembled and lying flat, the outer border is worked continuously in Lavender around the long rectangle made of four motifs. Work rounding corners by following the outermost scallop shapes and filling gaps with small shells so the outer edge reads as a continuous scalloped lavender border.

Round 1 :

Join Lavender at any outermost scallop top. Ch1, sc in same place, *ch3, sk 3 dc across scallop valley and sc at next scallop tip; rep around the entire runner letting the ch-3s form regular spacing between sc anchors. Join with sl st. (Count depends on runner perimeter β€” expect approximately 80-92 sc anchors around full runner)

Round 2 :

Ch3 (counts as dc), in same st work 2 dc, *ch2, in next ch-3 sp work (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) to form shell; rep around making shells nestled over each outer scallop; join with sl st. This creates continuous lavender scallops that echo motif edges. (shells per outer scallop)

Info :

When you reach corners where motifs meet at seams, work extra ch-2 spaces to ease fabric and avoid puckering. Keep shells even size by counting dcs carefully in each shell.

Round 3 :

Ch1, sc in same st, *ch6, sc in center top of next shell; rep around to establish outer scallop loops. Join with sl st. (equal to number of lavender shells)

Round 4 :

In each ch-6 loop work: (sc, ch1, 11 dc, ch1, sc) to create tall scalloped edges. Keep stitches slightly loose so scallops gently fan outward. Join with sl st at end and fasten off. Weave in ends. (11 dc per scallop)

Round 5 :

For a finished ridge, with Lavender, work one final round in BLO: join in any dc, ch1, 1 sc in each st BLO around the entire runner. This creates a tidy ridge that frames the scallops. Join and fasten off. Weave in all ends neatly on the wrong side. (stitch count follows perimeter)

Info :

Pin the runner on a blocking board to final measurements and lightly steam or spray with water to set the scalloped border into place. Allow to dry fully before removing pins; this step brings crisp definition to the scallops and keeps the runner flat.

β€” Finishing Touches :

Info :

Weave in all remaining ends with a blunt tapestry needle, pulling them through the wrong side and trimming close. If you prefer a softer look, use a small amount of fabric-safe starch and press lightly to keep the runner crisp for display. Store flat to keep scallops in shape.

Measure :

Finished runner measures approximately 36-38in (92-97cm) long by 10-11in (25-28cm) wide with four motifs. Measurements will vary with yarn and tension; change hook size to increase or decrease motif diameter.

Info :

Optional embellishments: add small embroidered centers using a few strands of contrasting thread, or attach tiny crocheted leaves in cream between motif joins for extra botanical detail.

β€” Notes on Customizing Size & Motif Count :

Info :

To lengthen the runner, add additional motifs following the motif pattern and join sequences. For a placemat, use a single motif and finish with the border instructions. To create a wider runner, make motifs of a larger gauge (use heavier yarn or larger hook) and join in multiple columns, adding additional border rounds to frame the wider piece.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin motifs in a straight vertical line on blocking mats, aligning centers. Ensure scallops nest evenly and adjust by re-blocking any motif that is larger or smaller before sewing.
  • Join motifs pairwise by slip-stitching through corresponding scallop tops and valleys. Place stitch markers at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock points to keep counts consistent while joining.
  • After primary sl st joins, add chain-3 bridges between motifs at evenly spaced points (one bridge between each scallop pair) using cream yarn to echo the runner’s lace.
  • Reinforce the joins by working a narrow sc round along each seam on the wrong side: sc across the seam through both motifs and work sc-ch2-sc into each bridge.
  • Once the motifs are joined, pick up lavender yarn at an outer scallop and work the continuous border round(s) around the perimeter. Work extra chains at corners where motifs meet to prevent puckering.
  • Block the fully assembled runner, pinning scallops and edges to final measurements. Steam or wet-block and let dry completely before removing pins for crisp scallops and a smooth runner.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers at the beginning of every round and at key symmetry points (top/center of motif) to maintain pattern alignment.
  • πŸ’‘Block each motif individually before joining for the most even seams; slight differences in size are easier to correct by blocking than by stretching joins.
  • πŸ’‘Keep long tails when fastening off color changes so you can weave them into the wrong side rather than having loose ends on the lace surface.
  • πŸ’‘When joining motifs, work on a flat surface and pin liberally to hold placement β€” joining without pins often results in misaligned petals.
  • πŸ’‘If the scalloped outer edge pucker, add a few chs or reduce shell size in the border round to compensate and keep the edge flat.
  • πŸ’‘Match tension for all motifs β€” if you crochet some motifs more tightly, swap hooks so all four motifs have consistent diameter.
  • πŸ’‘Weave ends to the wrong side and run the tapestry needle through adjacent rows at least 6-8 times to secure ends invisibly.
  • πŸ’‘For table use, avoid heavy starch finishes that can stiffen cotton too much; a light blocking spray usually suffices for a natural drape.

You’ve just made a lovely Lavender and Cream Daisy Motif Table Runner that will brighten any table! Each motif combines airy lace and soft lavender petals for a timeless spring-to-summer centerpiece. Blocking and careful joining make the scalloped edge sing and give the runner a professional finish. 🧢✨ Display it on a console, dining table, or gift it to a friend who loves handmade home touches. Happy stitching β€” your home will smell like summer in no time! 🌸

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Based on worsted cotton and the recommended hook, the finished runner should measure approximately 36-38 inches (92-97 cm) long and 10-11 inches (25-28 cm) wide for four motifs. Size will vary with yarn and tension.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes β€” lighter yarn (DK or sport) will produce a smaller, more delicate runner; heavier yarn will increase motif size and thickness. Adjust hook size accordingly and block motifs to match dimensions.

How do I prevent motifs from becoming uneven?

Block each motif to identical measurements before joining. Use the same hook and keep tension consistent across all motifs. If one motif is larger, switch to a slightly smaller hook for that motif and re-block.

Can I join motifs with a different method?

Absolutely. Slip-stitch joining and sc joining are described here, but you can use mattress stitch or join-as-you-go (JAYG) by adapting the outer joining rounds if you prefer no-seam joins.

How much yarn will I need?

Approximately 180-220g lavender and 220-260g cream worsted cotton yarn in total (about 7-9 skeins of 50g each combined), depending on brand and exact motif count.

Do I need to block motifs?

Yes. Blocking motifs flat before joining ensures consistent shape and even scallops. Light wet-blocking or steam-blocking works well for cotton yarn.

Can I add more motifs to make a longer runner?

Yes. Add as many motifs as you like in a single column for a longer runner, or create multiple columns and join them side-by-side for a wider table piece. Follow the joining and border instructions, increasing border rounds as needed.

How should I wash this runner?

Hand-wash gently in cool water and lay flat to dry on a towel or blocking board. Avoid machine washing or drying to maintain scallop shape and prevent distortion.