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Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern

Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern
4.0β˜… Rating
3-5 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Afternoon Project

Takes 3-5 hours, perfect for an afternoon or evening of relaxing crochet.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

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About This Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern

This pattern creates a five-petal flower-shaped cutlery holder worked in worsted/DK weight cotton (or cotton blend) for durability and a tidy look. Each petal is a small, flat donut with a center opening sized to slide cutlery handles through while the outside forms a decorative petal. The sturdy central rounds and an optional backing give structure, while the final edging creates a crisp, braided border.

Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern uses basic crochet stitches plus puff/cluster texture and a simple chain-bridge technique to form each petal's opening. The instructions include detailed round-by-round counts, assembly tips and finishing notes so you can reproduce the exact look.

Why You'll Love This Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern

I love this pattern because it turns simple stitches into an elegant, functional flower that livens up a table setting. The rich red color pops against the wood and porcelain in the photo, and the petal openings are cleverly built to cradle cutlery while remaining decorative. I also appreciate how the textured ridges and neat edge elevate a small accessory into a charming handmade detail.

Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern step 1 - construction progress Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how this pattern lets you personalize each set while keeping the construction simple; change color, yarn weight, or edging to create a completely different mood. Try a two-color edge for a festive holiday look or a softer pastel for everyday charm.

I would experiment with cotton-blend yarn for a slightly softer hand if the holder is to be used frequently β€” the structure is still stable but a touch less stiff. For a sturdier look, crochet the backing in a slightly smaller hook and stitch it tightly to the underside.

Small additions I enjoy: embroidery on the center disc, a tiny button at each petal tip, or a contrast-color reverse single crochet border. You can also swap the puff rounds for simple dc clusters to change the texture while maintaining the same round counts.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned petals and uneven joining; always mark your first stitch of each round. βœ— Working too loosely will cause the cutlery openings to sag and the piece to look floppy; use a slightly smaller hook than usual if necessary to keep stitches tight. βœ— Not checking the inner hole size before finishing will make the openings too tight or too loose; test with your cutlery handles as you build petals. βœ— Using non-washable or very stretchy yarn will reduce durability; choose a cotton or cotton-blend for easy laundering and crisp shape retention. βœ— Joining petals without pinning can lead to uneven placement; pin pieces together and check alignment before sewing. βœ— Not weaving in ends neatly under the edge causes visible tails on the finished mat; use a yarn needle and weave at least 2-3 inches into previous rows.

Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern

This charming floral cutlery holder is a quick, practical and decorative table accent worked in a rich red cotton yarn. The design features five petal-shaped loops arranged like a flower, each forming a neat opening to tuck a knife, fork or spoon. The piece is sturdy, slightly padded, and finished with a neat braided edge that holds place settings beautifully for tea or dinner. Perfect for seasonal tables, parties or simple everyday charm.

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Red Flower Cutlery Holder Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (#4), approximately 120-150g in main color (deep red as pictured)
  • 02
    Optional small amount (10-20g) in contrast color for edging if desired (e.g., cream or gold)
  • 03
    If using DK instead of worsted, allow for slightly more yarn (approx. 160-180g total)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    4.5mm (7) crochet hook for main work (or 4.0mm if you crochet tight)
  • 02
    3.5-4.0mm (E) hook for tighter textured rounds or edging (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 5 to mark the beginning of rounds when working many small motifs)
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Pins or T-pins for blocking and assembly
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler to check inner opening diameter
  • 08
    Optional: small piece of felt for backing if you prefer a non-crochet backing
  • 09
    Optional: spray starch or blocking tools to shape petals

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Notes & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for this accessory but influences inner opening size. With worsted cotton and a 4.5mm hook, the inner hole formed in the petal after Round 7 should measure approx. 2.0-2.5 cm (just under 1") across. If your holes are smaller than your cutlery handles, move up a hook size; if they are larger, move down.

Info :

Puff stitch used here = yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up loop to near height of the stitch (repeat 3-4 times until 5-6 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops, ch1 to close puff. Adjust number of yarn overs per puff to match your yarn thickness. For bulky yarn do 3 loops; for thinner yarn do 4-5 loops.

β€” Petal 1 :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

These rounds build the small disc that will form the base of the petal. Keep stitches tight enough so the inner hole does not gape; adjust hook if needed.

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 7 :

To create the central opening (chain-bridge): *Ch 8, skip next 8 sts, sc in next 14 sts, then sc along the 8 chs made (working 1 sc in each chain) to complete the round* β€” total remains (30). Fasten with a sl st to first sc.

Info :

At the end of Round 7 you have a small chain-bridge that forms an oval opening. Test the inner hole with a fork handle β€” the chain length gives the inner circumference. If you prefer a larger opening, retake Round 7 with ch 10; smaller openings use ch 6.

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around, working into chains and stitches evenly (30)

Round 9 :

BLO 1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Working this round in the back loops only creates a subtle ridge along the inner opening; this ridge helps keep cutlery handles centered and gives the petal its inner lip.

Round 10 :

*Puff stitch in next st, sc in next st* around (15 puff, 15 sc) β€” work puff and sc alternating; total 30 stitches equivalent (30)

Round 11 :

sc in each st around (30) β€” position puffs more prominently by working into puff base if necessary

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Info :

Begin shaping the petal tip by decreasing in this round. Stuffing is not used for each petal β€” they remain flat. Keep tension consistent so petals lie flat when joined.

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 15 :

BLO sl st in each st (18)

Info :

This slip stitch round in the back loops only creates a turning ridge that helps the petal hold its curved outer edge when fluffed and blocked.

Round 16 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24) β€” begin to flare the outer edge slightly so petals will sit visibly when joined

Round 17 :

sc in each st (24)

Round 18 :

sl st in next 24 sts to neaten the outer edge, fasten off leaving a 30cm/12" tail for sewing (24)

Info :

Weave the long tail through the last round to neaten the edge. Pin the finished petal flat and gently steam-block or wet-block to create a consistent shape. Repeat for each petal, matching orientation so the inner openings will align when placed in a circle.

β€” Petal 2 :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

Ch 8, skip 8 sts, sc in next 14 sts, sc along 8 chs (30)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 9 :

BLO 1 sc in each st (30)

Round 10 :

*Puff stitch in next st, sc in next st* around (30)

Round 11 :

sc in each st around (30)

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 15 :

BLO sl st in each st (18)

Round 16 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 17 :

sc in each st (24)

Round 18 :

sl st in next 24 sts to neaten the outer edge, fasten off leaving 30cm/12" tail for sewing (24)

Info :

Make sure the inner opening of Petal 2 matches Petal 1 in size and tension. If the openings differ noticeably, frog back to Round 7 and adjust ch length for the chain-bridge.

β€” Petal 3 :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

Ch 8, skip 8 sts, sc in next 14 sts, sc along 8 chs (30)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 9 :

BLO 1 sc in each st (30)

Round 10 :

*Puff stitch in next st, sc in next st* around (30)

Round 11 :

sc in each st around (30)

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 15 :

BLO sl st in each st (18)

Round 16 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 17 :

sc in each st (24)

Round 18 :

sl st in next 24 sts to neaten outer edge, fasten off leaving 30cm/12" tail for sewing (24)

Info :

If you want a fuller petal, add one extra round of sc (Round 11 duplicate) before beginning decreases; this will widen the petal slightly.

β€” Petal 4 :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

Ch 8, skip 8 sts, sc in next 14 sts, sc along 8 chs (30)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 9 :

BLO 1 sc in each st (30)

Round 10 :

*Puff stitch in next st, sc in next st* around (30)

Round 11 :

sc in each st around (30)

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 15 :

BLO sl st in each st (18)

Round 16 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 17 :

sc in each st (24)

Round 18 :

sl st in next 24 sts to neaten outer edge, fasten off leaving 30cm/12" tail for sewing (24)

Info :

Make sure the long tails are left on the OUTER edge; these will be used for joining petals to the central disc and to each other. Use a contrasting stitch marker to mark the spot on each petal that should face the center.

β€” Petal 5 :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

Ch 8, skip 8 sts, sc in next 14 sts, sc along 8 chs (30)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 9 :

BLO 1 sc in each st (30)

Round 10 :

*Puff stitch in next st, sc in next st* around (30)

Round 11 :

sc in each st around (30)

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 15 :

BLO sl st in each st (18)

Round 16 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 17 :

sc in each st (24)

Round 18 :

sl st in next 24 sts to neaten outer edge, fasten off leaving 30cm/12" tail for sewing (24)

Info :

All five petals are now complete. Lay them out in a circle with the inner openings pointing to the center. Adjust orientation so the outer petal tips radiate evenly like a flower. Use blocking to flatten and uniformize if necessary.

β€” Center Disc (Join Petals) :

Round 1 :

Make a central disc that joins petals: MR, 6 sc in ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

This disc will sit under the inner openings of all five petals and serve as the piece to which you sew the inner rims of the petals. For a firmer center, you can make an extra round (Round 6) of sc before sewing petals on.

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 7 :

sl st evenly around to create a smooth surface and add a visual ridge for the petal joins (30)

Info :

Pin the central disc to the center of your petal layout, aligning the chain-bridge openings directly above the disc so the holes sit concentrically. The disc should be large enough to cover the inner edges of all five petals where you will sew them.

Round 8 :

Using the long tail from Center Round 6, whip-stitch through the inner loops of each petal and into the central disc. Make small, tight stitches approximately every 3-4mm to hold firmly (working a complete circle until all petals are attached).

Info :

Begin by sewing Petal 1 to the disc at the first marked point. Sew Petal 3 opposite Petal 1 (for balance), then sew the remaining three petals in the other spaces. Use pins to hold petals in place before sewing to maintain symmetry.

Round 9 :

After securing petals, work 1 sc through both disc and the inner row of each petal all the way around for reinforcement (approx. 60 sts if you pick up both layers evenly). If your stitches are tight this will be slightly fewer; simply work one sc in each space you pick up (60)

Round 10 :

sl st around neat join and fasten off leaving tails to weave through underside (60)

Info :

If you want a padded center, before fully closing the join stuff a small bit of polyester filling between the disc and the petal inner rims and then finish the sc reinforcement round to lock the stuffing in. Keep padding minimal β€” a flatter center is better for cutlery stability.

β€” Outer Edging :

Round 1 :

With right side facing, join yarn to any outer edge st. Work sc evenly around the entire flower, placing 2 sc in outermost points (petal tips) to keep the shape (approx. 120 sc total depending on how many outer sts you catch).

Round 2 :

*(1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc) in next stitch (creates small picot style scallop), skip 1-2 sts depending on spacing, sc in next 3 sts* around to create even scallops (repeat until round close)

Info :

This scalloped round gives a decorative, finished look similar to the neat braided border in the photo. You can substitute a braided-edge (worked by chain loops and slip stitch braid) if you prefer a thicker rim.

Round 3 :

Work a reverse single crochet (crab stitch) around the very edge to make a tight twisted rope finish. Sl st to join and fasten off, weave in ends (approx. 120)

Info :

Reverse single crochet is worked left-to-right: insert hook in next stitch behind the working yarn, yarn over and pull through, then complete single crochet. This gives a rope-like edging that resembles the thick neat edge in the photo.

β€” Optional Backing (Stability) :

Round 1 :

Make a backing disc slightly smaller than the assembled flower. MR, 6 sc (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc around (24)

Info :

Sew the backing to the underside of the center disc and to the inner part of the petals to create a tidy underside and extra stability. If you prefer fabric backing, cut a felt circle and whip-stitch it to the underside instead.

Round 6 :

Sl st around and fasten off; weave in ends and trim (24)

β€” Finishing Touches & Blocking :

Info :

Pin the finished flower on a flat surface and gently steam or wet-block to even out petals. If using cotton, a light starch spray will help the petals keep their shape. Check each inner opening with your actual cutlery; the fit should be snug but not tight.

Info :

Weave in all tails onto the underside, trimming close. Consider reinforcing the center joins with a second pass of small whip stitches if you expect heavy use.

Info :

For machine washable durability, use 100% cotton yarn and wash on gentle cycle; reshape while damp and dry flat.

Assembly Instructions

  • Lay out all five finished petals in a circular flower arrangement with the inner openings pointing towards the center and tips evenly spaced.
  • Pin the central disc in place beneath where the inner openings meet, aligning seams carefully so all chain-bridges are concentric.
  • Using the long tail from the center disc, whip-stitch the inner rim of Petal 1 to the disc (small tight stitches). Continue sewing each petal to the disc in a clockwise order, making sure petals are evenly spaced.
  • After all petals are tacked to the disc, work a reinforcing round of sc through both disc and petal inner rims to create a strong join; this is Round 9 of Center Disc.
  • Attach the optional backing (crochet disc or felt) to underside by whip-stitching around the inner attachment area for a clean finish and added stability.
  • Work the outer edging rounds last, catching the outermost stitches of each petal to create a continuous rim; block the piece flat with pins to get an even scallop edge before completing the final row.
  • Weave in and trim all tails on the underside and remove pins. Test with your cutlery to ensure each opening accepts the handle comfortably and that the flower sits flat.
  • If desired, add a small dab of fabric glue behind each petal where it meets the disc for extra long-term hold (use sparingly).

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Stuffing is optional; keep petals flat. If adding padding to the center, use only a small amount to keep the surface stable without bulging.
  • πŸ’‘For clean, even inner openings, test-fit a piece of cutlery at the chain-bridge round and adjust chain length before continuing with additional rounds.
  • πŸ’‘When sewing petals to the center disc, use small, even stitches and keep tension consistent to avoid puckering.
  • πŸ’‘Reverse single crochet (crab stitch) gives a neat rope-like finish to the edge and helps the piece keep its shape; practice on a swatch if new to the stitch.
  • πŸ’‘If making multiple sets for a dinner service, make one petal as a gauge and match every other petal to it to ensure uniformity.
  • πŸ’‘Weave in tails neatly underneath the backing or into the final edging round for a tidy finished piece.
  • πŸ’‘For a softer, drapier look use a slightly lighter hook (4.0mm) with the same yarn; for a sturdier, crisper look use a 5.0mm hook or add light starch when blocking.

This red flower cutlery holder transforms a simple table setting into something special with a few hours of crochet and a handful of yarn. Each petal is deliberately shaped to nestle cutlery handles and create a tidy floral presentation. Block and finish carefully for the sharp, professional look shown, and don't forget to try contrasting edging for a seasonal flair. 🌺🧢 Enjoy the satisfaction of handmade details on your next gathering β€” happy stitching!

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this cutlery holder?

With worsted cotton and a 4.5mm hook, the finished flower measures approximately 18-22 cm (7-8.5") across from petal tip to tip. Using thicker yarn or a larger hook will increase final size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. For a stiffer, more structured look use worsted or aran cotton; for a softer drape use DK or sport weight. Adjust hook size accordingly β€” usually one hook size down from the yarn label is recommended for amigurumi-like tightness and neat openings.

Do I need to use the puff stitch?

No, the puff stitch is decorative. You may substitute 2 dc in place of each puff stitch if you prefer simpler texture. The puff creates the radiating ridges shown in the photo.

How much stuffing will I need?

This design uses minimal stuffing. If you add padding to the center disc for structure, a small pinch (10-20g) of polyester fiberfill is sufficient. The petals themselves remain mostly flat.

Can I make the openings larger for thicker handles?

Yes β€” on Round 7 of each petal increase the chain length (ch 10 or ch 12) to enlarge the inner opening. Test with a fork or knife early and adjust accordingly before building more rounds.

How do I clean the finished holder?

If made from cotton, wash gently on a delicate cycle or handwash in warm water. Reshape and block while damp. Avoid harsh tumble drying; air-dry flat for best results.

Can I make this setable for multiple cutlery rows?

To hold more items or to create a multi-row holder, enlarge the central disc and add extra petals or work a second concentric ring of petal motifs; follow the same joining method.

What if my stitch counts are off when joining petals?

If counts differ slightly, ease discrepancies by adjusting stitch frequency during the reinforcement sc round (Center Round 9). Small adjustments of picking up every 2nd or every 3rd stitch will even out the join.