🧢 Beautiful ✨ Detailed πŸ’ Adorable

Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern

Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern
4.4β˜… Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.5K Made This
βœ‚οΈ

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🏑

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧢 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern

This pattern creates a long table runner made from three connected spiderweb motifs, each centered with a cheeky black spider and trimmed with tiny purple, orange and green flowers. The webs are worked in a warm cream/ivory, spiders in black with contrasting white eyes, and the border assembled with clusters of flowers and tiny bead-like berries. The finished runner has a delicate openwork look with a playful Halloween vibe perfect for a dining table or sideboard.

Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Construction is modular β€” make each web motif plus spider and floral clusters, then join-as-you-go along a central spine. Detailed stitch counts and placement tips are included for accurate shaping and consistent joins.

Why You'll Love This Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it blends whimsical Halloween character with classic lace-like crochet. The contrast of the bold black spiders against the soft web and the bright floral border creates a delightful mix of spooky and sweet. I especially enjoy the join-as-you-go technique used throughout β€” it keeps motifs tidy and allows for creative placement of flowers and berries.

Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how versatile this runner is β€” you can change colours to make it subtle or bold. Try a neutral web with metallic thread for a sophisticated autumn table, or swap purple for teal for a different vibe.

I often add more or fewer flowers to change the runner's density. You can also make the spiders flatter or more three-dimensional depending on how much they should pop off the surface. Using smaller hooks for the flowers tightens the petals and gives a more delicate look.

I encourage experimenting with different joining techniques: whip stitch for a visible seam or join-as-you-go for a seamless finish. This pattern welcomes creativity β€” make it your seasonal statement piece!

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs and uneven joins; always mark the first stitch of each round. βœ— Working with inconsistent tension can warp the web motifs; keep tension even to maintain shape and consistent motif sizes. βœ— Attaching spiders before blocking web motifs can make positioning difficult; block webs first for accurate placement. βœ— Not stuffing the spider centers lightly (if you prefer a raised body) will affect the three-dimensional look; stuff in small amounts. βœ— Forgetting to count chain spaces when creating spokes will produce uneven web sections; count loops carefully each time. βœ— Using a hook that is too large will create loose fabric and visible stuffing or sagging in the spider centers and flowers.

Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern

A charming Halloween table runner featuring three connected spiderweb motifs, playful black spiders with googly eyes, and a floral vine border in purple, orange and green accents. The runner is worked motif-by-motif and joined as you go for a lightly textured, lace-like finish. This pattern includes step-by-step instructions for webs, spiders, legs, flowers, leaves and the decorative edging so you can recreate the whole runner at home.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Spooky Spider Web Table Runner Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), approximately 220-250g in cream/ivory for webs and spine
  • 02
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4), approximately 80-100g in black for spiders, legs and berries
  • 03
    50-60g in purple for larger flowers
  • 04
    20-30g in bright yellow for small flower centers
  • 05
    30-40g in orange for accent flowers
  • 06
    60-80g in variegated green or solid olive for leaves and vines
  • 07
    Small scraps (10-15g each) in contrasting colours for extra little blooms if desired

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for small details and tighter flowers (optional)
  • 03
    Safety eyes 10mm (for spider eyes) or white/black buttons for glued/embroidered eyes
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill (small amount) for spider bodies if you want them slightly raised
  • 05
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (at least 4) to mark round starts
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for blocking and assembly
  • 09
    Optional: fabric glue for securing plastic eyes
  • 10
    Optional: small blocking pins and mats to shape web motifs

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

β€” Notes :

Info :

This runner is built from repeated web motifs joined along a central column and finished with a floral cluster border. Work motifs flat. For uniformity, block each completed web motif before final joining. Use stitch marker at the beginning of each round. When the pattern says 'make X', work that many separate motifs/parts and assemble as described.

Info :

Abbreviations used: mr, ch, sc, hdc, dc, tr, sl st, inc, dec, picot, bp (bobble). All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless noted as joined rounds. When working with black yarn for spiders, consider switching to a 3.0mm hook for a tighter fabric if you prefer less visible stitches.

β€” Spider Center (make 3) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

If you want a slightly raised spider body, use a small amount of fiberfill now and again after rounds 6-8. Spider centers are intended to be nearly flat; stuffing should be light and even.

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st BLO (30)

Round 8 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 5, 5 sc (35)

Round 9 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 5, 6 sc (41)

Info :

These slight increases give the spider body a rounded-scalloped profile which helps the legs sit neatly around the perimeter. If you prefer a flatter body, stop at round 6 and fasten off.

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (41)

Round 11 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6, 5 sc (35)

Round 12 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 5, 5 sc (30)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a 40cm/16in tail for sewing. Weave tail through final round and pull closed slightly if needed. Attach safety eyes at the end of Round 6 to sit near the center β€” place them approximately 4-6 sts apart depending on desired expression. For glued or embroidered eyes, place and secure after sewing to the web.

β€” Spider Legs (make 24 legs; 8 legs per spider) :

Info :

Each spider has eight legs. Work legs in black. Legs are crocheted as short twisted chains with bobble accents; they are made flat and then sewn to the perimeter of the spider center. Work 8 legs for each spider and attach evenly around the final round of the spider center.

Round 1 :

Ch 14, starting in 2nd ch from hook: sc, hdc in next, dc in next 2, tr in next 2, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next (this creates a tapered length) (12 sts worked into chain)

Round 2 :

Turn, working into back loops of chain foundation only: sl st in first 3, (bp in next: [yo, insert hook, pull up loop] x3 then pull through and close to make a small bobble), sl st in next 2, bp, sl st rest to end. (This adds two small bobbles along the leg)

Info :

Bobble (bp) instruction: yarn over, insert in indicated st, pull up loop; repeat 3 times (5 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops, ch1 to close bobble. Keep tension consistent for round bobbles. If you prefer simple legs, you can replace bobbles with picots (ch3, sl st in 3rd ch).

Round 3 :

Fold leg slightly and join ends with sl st to create a curve (no stitch count change)

Info :

Make 8 legs per spider. Space legs evenly and sew through the underside of the spider center so the seam is hidden. For a sturdier attachment, pass the yarn needle through the spider center twice per leg and knot on the underside.

β€” Web Motif (make 3) :

Info :

The web motif is worked from the center out in rounds and uses chain loops to form spokes and arches to imitate web threads. Work motifs in cream/ivory. Each web is hexagonal (6 spokes) to match the decorative runner layout.

Round 1 :

Ch 6, sl st to form ring (or mr alternative), ch 1, 12 sc into ring, join with sl st to first sc (12)

Round 2 :

Ch 6 (counts as first spoke chain), *sl st into next sc, ch 6; rep from * around to make 6 chain spokes; join with sl st into base of first ch-6 (6 loops)

Info :

Counting chain spokes carefully is important. You should have six even loops forming spokes. These loops will be used to build the arches that create the web pattern.

Round 3 :

Working into each ch-6 loop: *(sc, ch3, 3 dc, ch3, sc) in loop; sl st into next base st between loops; rep from * around (6 decorative arches)

Round 4 :

In each arch from previous round make: *(sl st at base, ch7, sl st at center of arch) to form bridging loops across spokes; rep around (6 larger loops)

Info :

These bridging loops create the layered web effect. Maintain even loop tension to keep a flat motif. If any loop pulls tight, block the motif while damp to even out the tension.

Round 5 :

Working along each bridging loop: *[sc, picot, dc, picot, sc] into the chain space, sl st to next base; rep around (6 sets; count is based on spaces, not standard sc count)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, *sc into next 5 sts and into top of each arch, then in the center of each spoke [ch3, sl st] to create a small picot-spoke; rep around producing a scalloped outline

Round 7 :

1 sc in each sc around forming a tidy round (approx 48 sc depending on how you executed arches) (48)

Info :

If your stitch count differs slightly due to differing chain tensions, aim to maintain the same number of arches and loops per spoke so motifs join neatly later. Block each motif flat, pinning the spokes evenly to a hexagonal shape.

Round 8 :

To define outer web ribs: *(ch3, sl st into next arc top) around each arch repeat to create 6 outer ribs; join with sl st to first st (6 ribs)

Round 9 :

Work one round of sc evenly around outer edging catching the back of the rib loops so the motif edge is firm (approx 60 sc) (60)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st BLO around to give a defined ridge for joining later (60)

Info :

Leave a long tail (~40cm/16in) at the end of the final round for position sewing if you prefer to do a whipstitch join rather than join-as-you-go. I recommend join-as-you-go for a seamless runner.

β€” Central Spine Join (connecting webs) :

Info :

Webs are connected along a central column formed by chaining and sewing at the spoke tips so that three web hexagons are aligned. We will perform a join-as-you-go from the second web onward. Work joining after completing Round 9 of each web motif while motif is still on your hook.

Round 1 (join step on second web) :

Position second web next to first with spokes aligned. When you reach the spoke that joins to the first web, sl st into the corresponding outer rib of the first web, ch3 to continue, then continue around the second web repeating this join at each of the three contact spokes (no global stitch count change)

Info :

Repeat for the third web β€” join the third to the second in the same manner. Take care to pin motifs together so the chain joins sit neatly and the motifs are aligned straight along the runner center.

β€” Floral Cluster (flowers and berries; make enough to trim both sides) :

Info :

Border is formed from small 6-petal flowers (purple), tiny 5-petal accent flowers (orange), little leaf clusters and small bobble berries (black). Make the number of flowers required to run the length of both sides of the runner; roughly 6 large flowers and 8-12 small accents per side depending on spacing (estimate: make 24 large purple flowers, 36 small orange flowers, 60 leaf clusters and 40-50 berries). You can reduce or increase to suit your layout.

Large Flower - Round 1 :

mr, ch1, 8 sc in mr; join with sl st (8)

Round 2 :

*(ch3, 3 dc, ch3), sl st into next sc to form a petal; rep from * around to form 8 petals. Join (8 petals)

Round 3 :

In front of petals, with contrasting yellow, make center: attach yarn to center, ch2, work 6 hdc into center and sl st, fasten off. Weave end to back and secure (6 center)

Info :

Use a smaller hook (3.0mm) for flowers if you want them tighter. Press flat lightly when blocking to keep petals from curling. Sew flowers into place along the outer edges of the web motif following the photos for placement β€” typically at arc junctions and outer seam points.

Small Flower - Round 1 :

mr, ch1, 6 sc in mr, join (6)

Round 2 :

*(ch3, 3 dc, ch3), sl st into next sc; rep around to make 6 petals; join and fasten off (6 petals)

Leaf Cluster - Round 1 :

With green, ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 2, tr in last ch (leaf shape). Turn and sl st back down the opposite side to base for a little symmetrical leaf, fasten off. Make clusters of 2-3 leaves and sew them between flowers.

Berry/Bobble :

With black, in chosen spot sc2tog three times into same base st to produce a small bobble cluster or make a small 6-sc ball using mr - 6 sc in mr, pull tight, fasten leaving a tail for sewing. Sew berries into clusters near flowers as in photo.

Info :

Arrange flowers and leaves loosely before sewing to decide your spacing. Pin in place, then stitch through the back loops of the web motif outer round and around the flower base so each flower and leaf cluster is securely anchored and the runner lays flat.

β€” Decorative Edge & Final Joining :

Round 1 :

With cream edge color, sc evenly around entire assembled runner outer edge catching backs of flower/leaf stitch bases where possible to unify edge (approx 200-260 sc depending on spacing) (count will vary)

Round 2 :

*(ch3, picot, sl st into next st) to create a scallop effect along the entire outer edge; rep around. When you reach a flower, work 3 picots to emphasize placement. Join with sl st.

Info :

This scalloped edging softens the runner silhouette and ties together the web spokes with the floral border. Block the finished runner flat with pins and steam lightly or damp-block to set shape. Weave in all ends securely on the underside.

β€” Alternate Spider Body Option (raised, amigurumi-style) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Info :

For a more three-dimensional spider that sits above the web, use this option and stuff lightly. Continue increasing to round 6 then work even for 3-4 rounds before decreasing. Stuff firmly but not overfull so the spider sits comfortably on the web surface.

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 7-11 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 12 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 13 :

(2 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (18)

Round 14 :

(1 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (12)

Round 15 :

6 dec (6)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff before final decreases and close the opening with a yarn needle. Sew this body to the center of the web, then attach the eyes and legs as described earlier.

β€” Assembly & Placement Info :

Info :

Lay all three web motifs in a straight row with edges almost touching. The center of each web should line up along a single central axis so spiders appear centered in each web. Pin in place and perform join-as-you-go or whip stitch along the inner ribs to create a stable runner. Follow the floral placement in the photos: alternate large purple flowers and small orange accents with leaf clusters in between to create a lively border.

Info :

Attach spiders after webs are joined and blocked. For each spider, position the spider center over the central portion of the web and baste it in place. Arrange 8 legs around the perimeter evenlyβ€”use previous round counts to determine equal spacing (e.g., every 3-4 outer edge stitches depending on web size). Sew legs through the web and spider center for secure attachment.

Info :

Check that the runner sits flat when sewn. If any motif puckers, unpick the join locally and re-pin to correct the angle. For extra stability on a frequently-used table, lightly apply fabric glue under the underside joins or add a non-slip pad beneath the runner.

β€” Finishing Touches :

Info :

Trim and weave all ends into the underside of the runner. If using safety eyes, glue from underside additionally for extra security. Steam-block gently if desired to open the lace; avoid melting any plastic eyes. Optionally add tiny embroidered mouths or cheek blushing for character using small amounts of embroidery floss or fabric paint sparingly.

Info :

Care: Hand wash cool and lay flat to dry; avoid machine washing or tumble drying to preserve shape and glued elements. Spot clean as needed for small marks.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join web motifs in a straight central column using join-as-you-go: when working Round 9 of the second web, sl st into the outer rib of the first web at the three spoke contact points; repeat to align and secure. Pin motifs before joining to ensure alignment.
  • Block each web motif flat before or after joining. Pin spokes evenly to a hexagon shape and spray lightly with water; allow to dry completely for a crisp, even runner.
  • Attach spider centers to the center of each web using the long tail from the spider center; baste through the spider center and the web’s central rounds, then sew around twice for stability. Keep stitches on the underside where possible.
  • Sew spider legs evenly around the spider center by matching leg base points to the last round of the spider disc. Use the same yarn used to make legs to stitch through the body and web multiple times for secure attachment.
  • Arrange floral clusters and leaves around the outer edge, pinning each piece in place before sewing. Sew through the underside of the web edge and around the base of each flower and leaf cluster for a tidy finish.
  • Work the scalloped outer edging last to unify motifs and to hide any joining stitches. Use BLO rounds to create ridges and attach flowers through these ridges for a neat seam.
  • Weave in ends into the underside of the runner and trim. If you used safety eyes, add a dab of fabric glue on the backside for permanence.
  • Final step: block the entire assembled runner to even out tension and set shape. Lay flat on a towel or blocking mat and pin outlines before drying.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • πŸ’‘Stuff spider bodies gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially if using raised amigurumi-style bodies
  • πŸ’‘For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing the spider body fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
  • πŸ’‘Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
  • πŸ’‘When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
  • πŸ’‘Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
  • πŸ’‘Block each web motif for accurate placement of spiders and flowers and to ensure even joins
  • πŸ’‘Keep a notepad or row counter to track rounds, especially in long even-stitch sections and join-as-you-go steps

This spider web table runner transforms your table with a playful mix of spooky and sweet details. Each carefully crocheted web, spider and floral cluster comes together for a charming seasonal centrepiece you can proudly display. The join-as-you-go construction makes assembly straightforward while allowing creative placement of flowers and berries. πŸ•·οΈπŸŒΈ Enjoy the process and delight in the tiny details β€” this runner will be a conversation starter at every gathering. Happy crocheting! πŸŽƒ

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

The finished runner with three web motifs measures approximately 36-40 inches (92-102 cm) long and 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) wide depending on tension and blocking. Adjust the number of motifs to change length.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Using a lighter yarn (sport/light) will produce a smaller, more delicate runner; heavier yarn (DK or worsted) will enlarge motifs. Adjust your hook size accordingly and remember to block motifs for consistent sizing.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

Both options work well. Safety eyes provide a playful store-bought look; embroidered or button eyes are safer for households with small children. You can also crochet small white discs and stitch them as eyes.

How much yarn will I need to complete the project?

Approximately 220-250g for the cream webs, 80-100g for black spider yarn, and 150-200g combined for flower and leaf accents. Exact amounts vary with personal tension and number of border motifs used.

Can I make the runner longer or shorter?

Yes. Add or remove web motifs from the central column to change the length, or create smaller/larger motifs by changing the hook or yarn weight.

How do I prevent the runner from curling or puckering?

Block each motif flat after completion and pin joints laterally before joining. Use even tension, and sew joins with consistent slip stitch joins or whip stitch to avoid pulling one motif tighter than another.

Can I make this washable?

Hand wash gently and lay flat to dry. If you want machine washability, choose a washable cotton blend yarn and avoid glue-on eyes; fasten eyes securely and consider machine-washable sewing techniques. Still, air dry flat to preserve shape.

What if my stitch counts don't match exactly?

Small variance in stitch counts is normal due to tension differences. The critical part is keeping the same number of spokes, arches and loops per motif so they can be joined evenly. If a web is noticeably bigger, adjust by blocking rather than ripping back if possible.