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Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern

Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern
4.7β˜… Rating
10-12 Hours Time Needed
2.3K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10+ hour projectβ€”great for savoring the process over several sessions.

🌹

Charming Centerpiece

An elegant crochet vase filled with layered red roses and coordinating daisy doily motifs for a timeless tabletop display.

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About This Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern

This pattern recreates the full scene: a tightly textured round vase, a bouquet of spiral roses with multiple petal layers, sculpted green leaves, tiny white babys breath buds, and a matching daisy-and-circle doily runner. Colors pictured: deep red for roses, soft sage green for leaves and accents, and cream for the doily. The set blends solid, sculptural elements (vase and roses) with open lacey motifs (daisies and circles) for contrast and visual interest.

Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The roses are made by crocheting a long spiral petal strip and rolling it into a tight bloom; leaves are made flat with raised veins. The vase is worked in the round with BLO ribbing to create vertical texture and finished with a wide flat base for stability.

Why You'll Love This Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern

I love this pattern because it balances sculptural shapes and delicate motifs β€” the tight spiral roses feel luxurious and tactile, while the lacy daisies soften the display. I always enjoy the meditative rhythm of working long petal strips and watching them turn into a full bouquet. The combination of dense ribbed vase and airy doily makes such a satisfying centerpiece to style and swap colors for every season.

Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern step 1 - construction progress Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved creating this pattern because it lets you play with both sculptural and lacy crochet techniques in one project. The vase uses simple texture techniques like BLO ribbing while the roses invite experimentation with petal height and strip length.

I like to customize the bouquet by changing petal counts or colors β€” try pinks and creams for a romantic version or autumnal oranges and golds for a seasonal display. You can also scale the whole set up or down by choosing a thicker or thinner yarn and adjusting hook size.

For the runner, swap the sage green for a darker olive for a more rustic look, or add metallic thread to a few accent circles for a subtle sparkle. I encourage you to mix and match petal rows and leaf textures to make every bouquet uniquely yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned vertical ribs on the vase; always mark your first stitch of each round βœ— Working petals too loosely will make roses floppy and bulky; maintain slightly tighter tension on petal strip rows βœ— Not stuffing the vase base evenly causes wobbling; pack base firmly and test on a flat surface before finishing βœ— Using too much stuffing in stems makes them difficult to bend around wire; stuff stems lightly after inserting wire βœ— Attaching leaves asymmetrically will look lopsided; pin leaves around stems and balance placement before sewing βœ— Not securing the spiral base of the rose with enough stitches can unroll the bloom; tack the base carefully with multiple stitches βœ— Changing yarn weight mid-project without adjusting hook size leads to mismatched motif sizes across the doily; match yarn and hook consistently across motifs βœ— Using safety pins instead of sturdy wire for stems can cause stems to deform over time; use floral wire or button wire and wrap securely

Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern

Create a timeless tabletop display: a crochet vase filled with layered red roses, sculpted green leaves, delicate babys breath buds, and a coordinating daisy-motif doily runner. This pattern shows how to crochet a textured vase, spiral roses with layered petals, realistic leaves, sturdy wired stems, and the floral doily with circular motifs. Perfect for gifting or a centerpiece, the finished set mixes dense texture and lacy motifs for a charming vintage look.

Advanced 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Vintage Rose Bouquet and Doily Set Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton yarn (#4) approximately 200-250g in deep red for roses
  • 02
    150-180g in sage green for leaves, stems and doily accents
  • 03
    150-200g in cream/off-white for doily and vase base accents
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-20g) in white for babys breath buds and tiny details

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for most work
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter petals and detail (optional)
  • 03
    2.5mm (C) hook for very tight petal edges (optional)
  • 04
    Floral wire or 20-24 gauge craft wire for stems (20-30 pieces depending on bouquet size)
  • 05
    Floral tape to wrap wire (optional)
  • 06
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing for vase base and slight filling inside vase
  • 07
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 08
    Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • 09
    Scissors
  • 10
    Pins for assembly and blocking motifs
  • 11
    Optional: hot glue or fabric glue for securing stems inside vase base

Progress Tracker

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β€” Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is flexible for decorative pieces. Using worsted cotton and 3.5mm hook, a 12 round circle (sc rounds) measures approximately 10cm/4in. Adjust hook to match desired firmness for vase and petals.

β€” Vase (worked in continuous rounds) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Info :

We are creating a wide, stable base. If you prefer a larger base, continue increases by adding (6 sc, 1 inc) rounds until desired diameter. Base must be flat; test on a table as you go.

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st BLO (42)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 11 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st BLO (48)

Info :

Switch to ribbing for vase body: work rounds in BLO to create vertical ridges. From now on maintain BLO for outer texture and alternate a plain round every 3-4 rounds for structure.

Round 14-17 :

1 sc in each st BLO (48)

Round 18 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 19-23 :

1 sc in each st BLO (54)

Info :

Begin shaping inward as vase narrows at neck area. To maintain the rib look, do decreases on even rounds and keep BLO texture on following rounds.

Round 24 :

(7 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (48)

Round 25-29 :

1 sc in each st BLO (48)

Round 30 :

(6 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (42)

Round 31-35 :

1 sc in each st BLO (42)

Round 36 :

(5 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (36)

Round 37-42 :

1 sc in each st BLO (36)

Info :

At this point test how the vase will hold stems. If you want a wider opening for many stems, stop decreases earlier. If you want a narrow neck, continue shaping down. For pictured vase, neck is about 28-30 rounds from base.

Round 43 :

(4 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (30)

Round 44-48 :

1 sc in each st BLO (30)

Round 49 :

(3 sc, 1 dec) x 6 (24)

Round 50 :

1 sc in each st BLO (24)

Info :

To create a neat opening edge, switch to FLO for the next 2 rounds and finish with a decorative top edge: FLO rounds create a subtle flare contrasting with BLO ribbing below.

Round 51-52 :

1 sc in each st FLO (24)

Round 53 :

*sc, ch1, sk1* around for a lacy picot-like edge if desired (24 picot spaces)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for securing base and weaving. Stuff the lower base lightly with fiberfill to give weight; the vase pictured is mostly hollow but has a weighted base so stems sit upright.

β€” Vase Base Reinforcement (optional) :

Round 1 :

Using a smaller hook (3.0mm), ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

Make a flat disc slightly smaller than the vase bottom. Insert into base before finishing and secure by whipstitching the vase bottom to the disc for a solid weight and shape.

β€” Rose Center & Spiral Petal Strip (make 1 per rose) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Info :

This small cup will be the base you roll the petal strip around. Make it tight and slightly cupped so petals start neatly centered. Fasten off and leave a long tail to sew or attach the petal strip.

Petal Strip - Foundation Chain :

Round 1 :

Ch 120 (or adjust length for larger/smaller blooms). Turn, sc into second ch from hook and across (119 sc). Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing a start point into the center cup (119)

Petal Strip - Working Rows :

Row 1 :

Attach yarn to first sc of foundation. *ch2, sk1, {sc in next 3 sts}* across to create small spaces that will anchor petals. (approx 80 small petal anchor groups depending on foundation count)

Row 2 :

Turn. Working across anchors, make petals spaced: *into each anchor: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in same space, sl st into next sc* repeat to end. This forms the first petal row with small cupped petals.

Info :

Maintain tight tension on petal stitches so petals stand up. Using a smaller hook here creates firmer petals that roll well. If your petal row looks too loose, undo and retry with 3.0mm hook for this strip.

Row 3 :

Turn, ch2, *make a taller petal over two anchors by working (sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc) into the space between two previous petals* Repeat across to create larger outer petals (this creates overlap when rolled)

Row 4 :

Turn, repeat Row 3 but offset stitch placement so petals sit between previous petals; this layering builds a realistic rose. Fasten off leaving a long tail.

Info :

Depending on how full you want the rose, you can add additional rows of even larger petals (Row 5: longer chains and tr clusters). The pictured roses have 3 petal rows (small, medium, large) forming a dense spiral.

β€” Rose Assembly (each rose) :

Round 1 :

Using the long tail on petal strip, tack the starting edge around the outer edge of the small cup base with whipstitches so the strip spirals outward. Continue coiling the petal strip around the base, tacking every 4-6 stitches to secure (no stitch count needed; coil until strip is used or rose is desired size).

Info :

Roll the strip tightly at the center and slightly looser as you progress outward to mimic natural rose bloom. Use fine sewing stitches through adjacent petals to keep inner coils from unwrapping. Sew the finishing end to the underside of the bloom securely.

Round 2 :

Whipstitch the underside of the rose to create a small flat base for attaching to stem. Make 10-12 secure stitches around the base.

Info :

Sew a short length of floral wire to the underside: position wire so it extends down from the rose base. Wrap the first 2cm of wire with floral tape or yarn to bulk it slightly then start the stem cover.

β€” Rose Stem (covering floral wire) :

Round 1 :

With sage green, ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook. Fasten off (6) - make a small tube, or

Round 2 :

Alternatively, work in continuous rnds: 6 sc in a magic ring around wire (6)

Round 3 :

Inc each st around until tube fits snugly over wire end: 6 inc (12)

Round 4-10 :

1 sc in each st (12) continue working in spiral around wire until reaching desired length (approx 10-25cm depending on bouquet)

Info :

Slide wire through tube as you work, or make tubes separately and insert wire then sew closed at top. Wrap wire with floral tape over the yarn if desired to smooth any seam.

Round 11 :

When near the rose base, join the yarn to the underside and sew the stem into the base with 8-12 tight stitches. Knot and weave in tail securely.

β€” Leaf (make multiple) :

Round 1 :

Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc across to last ch, 5 sc in last ch to turn on opposite side (creates rounded tip), continue working down opposite side: sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc (approx 24 sts total)

Round 2 :

Sl st into base of leaf, ch1; FLO: 1 sc in each st around to create a neat rim (24)

Round 3 :

With contrast yarn or same color, embroider veins: using surface slip stitches or backstitch from base to tip in 3 lines (one center, two sides). Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Info :

Make leaves slightly curved by sewing gently through the middle vein and pulling; pin into shape until dry. Attach 2-3 leaves per stem cluster for natural fullness.

β€” Baby's Breath Buds (tiny florets) :

Round 1 :

Ch 4, sl st to form small ring, 6 sc into ring (6)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Round 3 :

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew onto thin green wired stems. Group 3-6 buds together at tips for realistic clusters.

Info :

Use white cotton and wrap tiny buds around the top of a short floral wire. Glue or stitch clusters in place for stability.

β€” Large Daisy Motif (Doily Flower) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 6 :

*ch6, sl st in next st* repeat around to create 12 loops for petals (12 loops)

Round 7 :

Work petals: in each loop make *(sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc) into loop* repeat 12 times (12 petals)

Round 8 :

Fasten off and block petals flat. For a raised petal effect, work petals in slightly smaller hook and steam-block.

Info :

If you want a layered daisy like the photo, make a second ring of petals offset between the first layer and sew together at base so petals overlap, creating a fuller flower.

β€” Medium Circle Motif (Doily round) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7-12 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Info :

Make several of these circles in cream and green to form the clustered rings shown in the runner. Alternate colors to create contrast and texture.

β€” Small Circle Motif (accent circles) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Info :

These small circles are often used to fill gaps between larger motifs. Make many in both cream and sage and vary counts for visual interest.

β€” Small Oval Leaf Motif :

Row 1 :

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc, dc, hdc, sc in last ch, 4 sc in last ch to turn, continue down opposite side sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc (approx 20 sts)

Row 2 :

Sl st to base, ch1, 1 sc in each st around for neat edge (20)

Info :

Make many of these leaf shapes in two sizes. They are used to link flower motifs and provide a leafy border around the runner.

β€” Doily Large Center Circle (tableplate) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8-16 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Info :

For the larger plate under the vase, you want a dense, flat circle. To keep it flat, make frequent increase rounds early then several even rounds. Use blocking to achieve a smooth surface.

β€” Joining Motifs (doily runner) :

Info :

Layout all motifs on a flat surface in the arrangement you like. Use pins to hold positions. Join motifs by whipstitching or slip stitch join working through outer edge stitches; for more flexibility sew with tapestry needle using matching yarn for invisible joins.

Round 1 :

When slip-stitch joining, place two motifs RS together and sl st through both loops around shared edge spaces; space joins evenly so motifs remain flat.

Info :

For a decorative raised join, use a chain-bridge method: sl st from motif A to motif B, ch 3, sl st back to motif A at next join point to form small arches between motifs.

β€” Finishing Edges for Runner :

Round 1 :

With cream, 1 sc evenly around entire outer edge of assembled runner, placing 2 sc in corners or points to avoid cupping.

Round 2 :

Optional scallop: *sk 2, 5 dc in next st, sk2, sl st* repeat around to create a scalloped rim.

Info :

Block the assembled runner by pinning to desired shape and misting lightly; allow to dry. This helps petals and circles open and sit flat like the photo.

β€” Additional Rose Petal Variation (for fuller blooms) :

Round 1 :

Ch 140 foundation for a very full bloom. Work a base of 120 sc across then 4 petal rows as described earlier but add an extra outermost row with elongated loops: in each loop work (sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc).

Round 2 :

Roll and secure more loosely at outer edge to create ruffled petals and larger diameter bloom.

Info :

Layering multiple petal strips sewn concentrically instead of a single very long strip is easier to control for very large blooms. Make 2-3 strips and attach in layers when rolling.

β€” Alternate Leaf with Raised Vein (textured leaf) :

Round 1 :

Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook to last ch, 5 sc in last ch, work along opposite side sc to first, sl st to join (approx 26 sts)

Round 2 :

Work surface fpdc along center line from base to tip to create a raised vein: insert hook around post and work fpdc for length. Fasten off and block curved slightly for natural look.

Info :

Sew these textured leaves to stems with the vein side up for extra realism; use a few stitches at stem base and one near mid-leaf to secure curve.

β€” Stem Bundles & Bouquet Assembly :

Round 1 :

Arrange stems into small groups of 3-5 roses with leaves and baby's breath clusters interspersed. Hold stems at desired height and wrap with floral tape 2-3cm below rose heads to create tidy clusters.

Round 2 :

Secure clusters together by wrapping extra yarn around stems and sewing through several wraps to lock position. For stronger bouquets, create a central core stem by twisting 2 wires together at base then attaching others around it.

Info :

Trim wire lengths to fit your vase depth. If your vase has a narrow neck, create a foam plug inside to anchor stems and prevent sliding; insert foam then place stems into foam for stable arrangement.

β€” Final Touches & Styling :

Round 1 :

Check each rose base for loose stitches and tack as necessary. Position leaves around blooms and arrange babys breath clusters to appear naturally scattered across bouquet.

Round 2 :

Place vase on runner center. If vase wobbles, add extra weight by inserting a small bag of stones inside bottom before tacking the base closed. Use hot glue to secure foam or weighted base if needed.

Info :

Gently steam-block petals to open them slightly if desired. Use a soft brush to lift petal edges for more dimensional, natural look. If making as gift, wrap stems and base with ribbon to finish.

Assembly Instructions

  • Arrange roses into small clusters of 3-5, wrapping stems together with floral tape and securing with a few yarn stitches at the base of heads
  • Insert foam or weighted disc into vase base then slide stems into arrangement; trim wires so flowers sit comfortably under the vase rim and secure with hot glue if necessary
  • Sew leaves in place around the rose clusters: attach 2-3 leaves per stem cluster at rounds where the stem meets the flower base for natural coverage
  • Lay out doily motifs on table and pin to desired arrangement. Join circles, daisies and leaves using whipstitch through outer edge stitches to create a smooth, flat runner
  • Attach small accent circles and leaf motifs between daisies by sewing through outer stitches; ensure joins are hidden on underside of runner
  • Block assembled runner by pinning to size, misting lightly, and allowing to dry; this opens petals and flattens joins
  • Secure vase to doily center with a few stitches through base and doily if using as permanent display, or simply place vase on top for flexible styling
  • Weave all loose tails into neighboring stitches and trim ends close for a neat finish

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers at the beginning of each round when working in continuous rounds to keep ribbing and increases aligned
  • πŸ’‘Stuff vase base lightly but add a reinforcement disc for weight to prevent toppling when stems are inserted
  • πŸ’‘Work petal strips with slightly tighter tension than body pieces for firm, sculptural petals that roll neatly
  • πŸ’‘Block petals and flat motifs gently; cotton relaxes with steam and takes shape nicely when pinned flat
  • πŸ’‘When joining doily motifs, pin carefully to maintain the intended negative space between motifs and avoid puckering
  • πŸ’‘Use floral wire inserted into crocheted stem tubes for stability; wrap ends with floral tape or yarn to avoid sharp points
  • πŸ’‘Make extra small circles and leaves β€” they are invaluable for filling gaps and giving the runner a cohesive, handcrafted look
  • πŸ’‘Test fit stems in vase before final gluing; adjustments are easier before glue is applied

Completing this set feels so rewarding β€” the sculptural roses paired with a lacy floral runner make such a statement! Each petal strip you crochet slowly reveals the bloom, and the textured vase gives the bouquet a solid, vintage presence. Mix and match colors for seasonal variations or gifts 🎁🌹. Enjoy arranging your handmade centerpiece and proudly display it on your table or give it to someone special β€” every stitch tells a story!

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this set?

Using worsted cotton and a 3.5mm hook, the vase measures roughly 18-22cm (7-9in) tall and the runner shown is about 40-50cm (16-20in) across. Individual roses are approximately 6-8cm (2.5-3in) diameter depending on petal strip length.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Thicker yarn (bulky) will produce a larger, sturdier vase and fuller petals; you will need larger hooks and fewer rounds. For very delicate petals, use lighter weight cotton and a smaller hook. Always adjust hook size and possibly stitch counts to maintain shape.

Do I need floral wire for stems?

Floral wire or craft wire is recommended for realistic, poseable stems and to support heavier blooms. Thin but strong gauge (20-24) works well. Wrap wire with yarn or floral tape before covering with crocheted tube for a smooth finish.

How much stuffing is required for the vase?

A small amount of fiberfill is used to create a weighted base and prevent wobble; about 30-60g depending on how much you pack. You can also use a weighted disc or small bag of pebbles sealed in plastic for extra stability.

Can I make the roses without wire?

Yes, but stems will be floppy and not poseable. You can crochet short stems and place blooms in foam inside the vase for a static arrangement. Wired stems are best for arranging and longevity.

How do I keep petals from unrolling?

Secure the spiral with multiple small whipstitches along the underside and add a dab of fabric glue if desired. Tacking every 4-6 stitches as you coil helps maintain even pressure and stops unravelling.

What if my motifs cup or ripple?

Wet-block or steam-block motifs pinned flat to the correct dimensions usually corrects cupping. Also ensure you did not over-increase in rounds; evenly spaced increases earlier maintain a flat circle.

How many roses and leaves will I need?

For a medium bouquet like pictured, plan on 9-12 full roses, 18-24 leaves (varied sizes) and numerous small circles and daisies to create the runner. Make extras for filling and balancing the composition.