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Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern

Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern
4.9★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern

This table runner is built from large floral mandala motifs joined into a sinuous, staggered strip. The colors in the sample are warm autumn tones—mustard gold, orange-rust, deep red and burgundy—worked in a worsted/aran weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn to give a crisp stitch definition. Each motif features a raised star-petal center created with puff/cluster stitches, open lacy chains for lightness, and a delicate picot-like scalloped edging that creates the overall leaf-like silhouette.

Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern uses a join-as-you-go method for a seamless finish and includes detailed instructions for making two motif sizes, consistent stitch counts, and a finishing border that unifies the motifs. Ideal as a seasonal centerpiece or a thoughtful handmade gift.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because the layered petal texture contrasts beautifully with the open lace sections—a real tactile joy. The warm gradient colors feel cozy and nostalgic, and I appreciate that the motifs join together as you work, so you can see the runner take shape. The scalloped edge adds a vintage-inspired finish that makes the whole piece feel special and handmade.

Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how this runner invites experimentation—try using two contrasting colors for petal centers and scallops to make each motif pop. You can also work all motifs in a single variegated yarn for a subtler gradient that needs fewer ends to weave in.

I often switch the final border color to either a solid dark burgundy for strong framing or a neutral cream for a lighter, vintage look. Another fun option: make a wider runner by working a second row of motifs and joining them along the sides for a table centerpiece that covers more surface.

Don't be afraid to personalise the motif counts and layout: a shorter runner works well for a console table and a longer one suits a dining table. Small changes in hook size will change the motif diameter and allow you to tune the runner size precisely.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned petals and inconsistent round beginnings; mark the first stitch of each round. ✗ Working with a hook that is too large will create loose stitches and visible gaps in puff stitches; use the recommended hook and adjust tension first. ✗ Not blocking motifs before final joining can result in uneven joins and a wavy edge; lightly block each motif for even shape prior to assembly. ✗ Failing to carry color carefully or weave in ends during joining creates lumps and bulk; weave tails as you join motifs to keep the back flat. ✗ Overstuffing yarn tails when weaving them in may create hard spots; weave tails smoothly and trim close after tucking them securely. ✗ Rushing the join-as-you-go step can create uneven spacing between motifs; pin motifs in place and check alignment before finishing joins.

Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern

Create a warm, autumnal table runner composed of interlocking floral mandala motifs in rich gold, rust, red and burgundy tones. This pattern guides you through crocheting each star-shaped motif, joining as you go, and finishing with a delicate scalloped border for a polished table centerpiece. The finished runner lays beautifully on a dining table and adds a handmade seasonal touch to your home decor.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Daisy Mandala Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted/Aran weight cotton or cotton blend yarn (#4) approximately 300-450g total depending on desired runner length, sample used a gradient pack and solid mustard
  • 02
    Approx. 150-200g in main accent colors (deep red and burgundy)
  • 03
    Approx. 120-150g in secondary accent colors (orange/rust and gold/mustard)
  • 04
    Small amounts (20-30g each) of contrast color for joins and border (gold/mustard and deep red)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work (adjust to yarn and tension)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) hook for tighter edges and picot rounds (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing joins
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 6) to mark round starts and join points
  • 05
    Blocking mat and rust-proof pins for shaping motifs
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler
  • 08
    Optional: small sewing pins for temporary positioning during join-as-you-go
  • 09
    Optional: blocking spray or light starch for crisp cotton motifs

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— Overview :

Info :

This pattern creates a runner by making two motif sizes (Large Daisy Mandala and Small Daisy Connector) and joining them in a staggered, overlapping layout. The sample runner uses alternating solid and variegated motifs in warm gold, orange-rust, red and burgundy. Tension should be moderately tight to preserve motif definition; cotton yarn works especially well for crisp petals.

Info :

Gauge is not critical for motif work but affects final runner length. One Large Daisy Mandala measures approximately 18-19 cm (7-7.5 in) across with recommended yarn and hook; Small Daisy Connector measures approximately 14-15 cm (5.5-6 in) across. Adjust hook size to obtain these diameters if needed.

— Techniques & Preparation :

Info :

Puff/cluster technique (pc) used here: yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (repeat 3 times total to have 7 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all loops, chain 1 to close the puff. Keep loops consistent in height and tension for even petals.

Info :

Blocking: After completing motifs, lightly wet-block each motif to open the lacy sections and smooth scallops. Pin to desired shape; dry completely before joining where possible. For a runner, some join-as-you-go approaches are shown that limit the need for full blocking before joining but final blocking is recommended.

— Materials & Color Plan :

Info :

Sample uses: Color A (Mustard Gold), Color B (Orange-Rust variegated), Color C (Deep Red), Color D (Burgundy). Plan motif sequence before working to ensure pleasing color flow.

— Large Daisy Mandala (Make 7 - each 16 rounds) :

Round 1 :

With Color chosen for the large motif, ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a small ring OR work a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 dc into ring; sl st to top of ch-3 to join (12 dc)

Round 2 :

Ch 2 (counts as hdc), [ch 2, hdc in next dc] repeat around to create chain spaces between hdc: (12 hdc, 12 ch-2 sps) sl st to first hdc to join (12 hdc, 12 ch-2 sps)

Round 3 :

Info : This round builds the central spokes. Work into ch-2 spaces to create elongated center. Ch 1, *sc in next hdc, ch 3, (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 3, sc in next hdc* repeat around. Sl st to first sc. You will have 12 petal anchors. (12 sc, 12 clusters)

Round 4 :

Ch 4 (counts as tr), in same st work tr, ch 2, 2 tr (corner) in same anchor, *sk next anchor, in next anchor work 2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr* repeat around; sl st to top of ch-4. You will have 6 large tr-corners and 6 skipped anchors forming airy petals.

Round 5 :

Info : This round shapes the raised star petals using puff clusters. Move to front of work to emphasize petals. Sl st to the front loop of a corner tr, ch 1, [pc into next tr space, ch 2] repeat across each petal area (work 8 pcs per petal spaced into the group of trebles and chains), sl st to join. Maintain consistent puff height. (Approx 48 pcs across entire round)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-2 space across, working around petals to encase their base. When you encounter a puff, work sc around base (3 sc around) to anchor. Sl st to first sc. (Stitch count variable ~72 depending on sc around puffs)

Round 7 :

Info : Create deeper petal texture. Ch 3 (counts as dc), in next stitch work dc cluster: [dc, tr, dc] across the top of each petal point (work into the highest point of each petal), ch 3 between petals. Repeat around for 6 pronounced petal points. Sl st to join. (6 petal points)

Round 8 :

Ch 1, sc around entire motif working 2 sc in chain spaces and 1 sc in most stitches to round out. At the tip of each petal, work (sc, ch 2, sc) to create small loop for future decorative picots. Slip stitch to join. (Approx 84 sc and 6 loop points)

Round 9 :

Info : Decorative openwork round. Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch2), skip next st, *dc in next st, ch 2, skip next st* repeat around, sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch-5. This creates 12 open arches aligning with petal edges.

Round 10 :

Into each ch-2 arch work: (sc, ch 4, sc) to make elongated loops. Sl st to join. (12 looped arches)

Round 11 :

Info : Begin outer scallop shaping in a contrasting or same color. Ch 1, sc in each st across, in each ch-4 loop work [sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc] to create a full scallop petal. Repeat across each arch. Slip stitch to join. You will have 12 scallops.

Round 12 :

Ch 3, dc in next st, *ch 2, sk 1, dc in next 3 sts (centered on scallop), ch 2, dc in next st* around to emphasize scallop peaks. Sl st to top of ch-3. (Keeps scallop count at 12)

Round 13 :

Info : Add final textured edging. Switch to smaller hook if you prefer a crisper edge. Ch 1, sc in each st and work picots along scallop peaks: at the top of each scallop work (sc, picot, sc) where picot = ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch. This gives a delicate lacy outline. Slip stitch to join.

Round 14 :

Fasten off leaving a 40 cm tail for join-as-you-go. Weave in short tail now and reserve long tail for joining to adjacent motifs if not using separate joining color. Lightly block to shape. (Motif complete)

Info :

Repeat Rounds 1-14 to make the number of Large Daisy Mandalas desired. In the sample runner alternate colors so the runner has visual texture: make 2 mustard (Color A), 2 variegated orange (Color B), 2 deep red (Color C), 1 burgundy (Color D). Total in sample = 7 large motifs.

— Small Daisy Connector Motif (Make 8 - each 12 rounds) :

Round 1 :

With chosen connector color (often mustard/gold for contrast) ch 4 and join to ring, ch 3 (counts as dc) and 11 dc into the ring; sl st to join (12 dc)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in next dc* repeat around making 12 sc and 12 ch-3 loops; sl st to join. These loops form placement points for petals of the small motif. (12 sc, 12 ch-3 sps)

Round 3 :

Info : Form petite petals. Into each ch-3: (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) to make small pointed petals; sl st to join. You will have 12 small petals.

Round 4 :

Ch 2, hdc in same st, sc in next st, *ch 2, sk next petal, sc in next st, hdc in next* repeat around to add small lace supports between petals. Sl st to join. (Approx 36 sts)

Round 5 :

Info : Work a textured round to give body to the connector. Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-2 space across; around the top of each small petal work a pc (puff cluster) to accent center. Sl st to join. (Stitch count variable ~48)

Round 6 :

Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *ch 2, sk 2, dc in next 3 sts* repeat around to shape small scallops. Sl st to join. (12 small scallops)

Round 7 :

Info : Strengthen outer edge. Ch 1, sc around working 2 sc in chain spaces and sc in most stitches, forming a neat edge for joining. Slip stitch to join. (Approx 60 sc)

Round 8 :

Ch 4, (counts as tr + ch1), *tr in next st, ch1* repeat around to make an open lacy ring; sl st to 3rd ch of starting ch-4. This prepares join points for the join-as-you-go method. (12 tr with ch-1 spaces)

Round 9 :

Info : Add small decorative picots. Ch 1, sc around and at each ch-1 space work (sc, picot, sc). Picot = ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch. This gives a tiny star outline. Sl st to join.

Round 10 :

Fasten off leaving a 30 cm tail for joining. Weave in short tails. Lightly block to even shape. (Connector motif complete)

Info :

Create a mix of 8 Small Daisy Connectors to intersperse between Large motifs where the runner narrows and overlaps. Connectors sit between large petals and visually blend the pattern.

— Join-As-You-Go Layout & Joining Rounds :

Info :

Layout: Arrange the motifs in a staggered, overlapping row: Large - Small - Large - Small - Large - Large - Small - Large (sample). The runner uses overlapping edges so each motif touches adjacent ones at 3-4 points. Pin motifs in place to check final look before joining. Leave long tails for joining if you worked them during motif finish.

Joining Round 1 :

With long tail from completed motif or join color, position next motif overlapping. Insert hook into a picot or ch space on worked motif and corresponding space on adjacent motif, sl st through both pieces to join. Repeat sl st joins at evenly spaced points along the overlap—aim for 6-8 joins per overlapping side depending on motif size. Work careful, even joins. (Join count depends on overlap length)

Joining Round 2 :

Info : Use mattress or whip stitch with tapestry needle if you prefer invisible joins instead of sl st. For an invisible seam, align stitches carefully and use small, even stitches to draw motifs flush together. Double-check alignment to avoid twisting.

Joining Round 3 :

Continue joining motifs across the length of the runner. When joining a Small Connector between two Large motifs, attach the connector to both adjacent large motifs at its three main anchoring points: the top scallop, center, and bottom scallop. This stabilizes the runner and keeps the staggered layout intact. (Repeat until all motifs joined)

Info :

If encountering small gaps, use small sc stitches in contrasting color in the gaps to create decorative bridges. This is a great place to show customization—use mustard for contrast or burgundy for subtle fill.

— Outer Border & Unified Edging (10 rounds) :

Round 1 :

With border color (sample uses Mustard Gold), join yarn to any outer edge point with a sl st. Ch 1, sc evenly around outer perimeter filling small raw gaps: in deep scallops work 4 sc across, in smaller gaps work 2 sc. Place 2 sc in rounded corners to prevent curling. Slip stitch to join. (Stitch count variable)

Round 2 :

Ch 3, dc in each sc around to add body to the border. At each scallop tip work an extra (dc, ch 2, dc) to emphasize points. Slip stitch to join. (Creates a stronger edge)

Round 3 :

Info : For a delicate lacy look, work a picot round next. Ch 1, sc in each st, at every 6th stitch work (sc, picot, sc). For a firmer edge skip picots on 50% of petals to reduce bulk. Picot = ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch.

Round 4 :

Ch 2, hdc in next 2 sts, *sk 1, in next st work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) to form a shell over each shallow gap, skip 1, hdc in next 2 sts* repeat around. Slip stitch to join. This rounds and unifies adjacent motif edges. (Shell count depends on outer edge)

Round 5 :

Info : Work a decorative chain loop round for openwork. Ch 1, *sc in next st, ch 5, sk 5 sts* repeat around and adjust sk count to fit the edge evenly. This creates elongated loops that echo inner lacework.

Round 6 :

Into each ch-5 loop work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) to make pronounced scallops. Slip stitch to join. This builds a bold final edging that frames the whole runner. (Final scallop count measured by loop count)

Round 7 :

Ch 1, sc around working 2 sc in the sides of large scallops and 1 sc elsewhere to maintain smooth curve. Slip stitch to join.

Round 8 :

Info : Optional final picot highlights. Switch to 3.5mm hook for crisper picots. Ch 1, sc in each st and at each scallop apex work (sc, picot, sc). Fasten off leaving long tail to sew down and tidy corners if needed. Weave tails in.

Round 9 :

Lightly steam or wet block the entire runner. Pin the outer scallops into an even, flowing edge and allow to dry. Final blocking will even the joins and open lace.

Round 10 :

Final finish: Trim all ends, inspect for loose joins and reinforce with matching yarn where necessary. The runner is now complete and ready to use. (End of pattern)

— Notes on Stitch Counts, Variations & Alternate Layouts :

Info :

Stitch counts given as approximate in lace and puff rounds because puff clusters and rounding can slightly vary counts. Maintain consistent repeats when working around motifs; trust the visual symmetry if the numeric count varies by 2-4 stitches in openwork sections.

Info :

Variation: For a longer runner make more Large motifs and connectors as needed. You can also create an even-width runner by using only Large motifs joined edge-to-edge with connectors only at corners for a staggered zig-zag pattern.

Info :

Colorwork tip: Carry color inside loosely when making small color changes within a motif to avoid cutting too many tails; always weave in ends during joins to hide them.

Assembly Instructions

  • Arrange motifs on a flat surface in your desired staggered layout. Pin each motif in place to check for even spacing and visual balance before joining.
  • Join motifs using join-as-you-go sl st method: line up overlapping edges, insert hook through corresponding picot or ch-space on both motifs and sl st to join. Space joins evenly (6-8 per overlap).
  • For stronger joins on high-traffic table runners, use the tapestry needle and mattress stitch through both motifs along the overlap, then weave the tail back and forth for reinforcement.
  • When connecting Small Daisy Connectors, attach them at three anchoring points: top scallop, center, and bottom scallop so they stabilize adjacent Large motifs.
  • After all joins are complete, add the unified outer border by joining yarn to an outer edge point and working sc around, then work the decorative shell and picot rounds to finish.
  • Block the completed runner: pin outer edges to shape on a blocking mat, gently spray or wet and allow to dry completely. This evens motif shapes and opens lacework.
  • Weave in and secure all loose ends using a yarn needle, trimming close after tucking them into a few stitches for a tidy back.
  • Inspect all joins and reinforce any that feel loose with a few extra stitches. Press lightly if cotton yarn to set the final look.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers at the beginning of each round and for key join points to avoid counting errors and maintain consistent shape
  • 💡Make motifs with consistent tension; making one motif noticeably tighter or looser will make joining and blocking difficult
  • 💡Block motifs before final joining if possible; blocked motifs join more predictably and yield a flat finished runner
  • 💡When working puff clusters, keep all yarn overs and loop heights consistent so petals match each other
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go, especially when using many color changes, to keep the back neat and reduce bulk
  • 💡Pin motifs before joining to allow minor repositioning and ensure the runner lays flat and symmetrical
  • 💡For seams that will be handled frequently, reinforce joins with a few hidden whip stitches on the back
  • 💡Keep a small amount of each color reserved (10-20g) for touch-up and reinforcement after finishing

This autumn daisy mandala table runner brings handcrafted warmth and seasonal color to any table. Working these motifs and joining them creates a relaxing, rhythmic project that rewards you with a beautiful centerpiece. Play with color placement to make a runner that's uniquely yours—each petal and scallop is a small, satisfying stitch of joy. 🧶 Harvest the season with handmade charm and enjoy every stitch as your project grows. 🍂

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

With the sample motif sizes (Large ~18cm, Small ~15cm) and the sample layout, the finished runner measures approximately 120-140 cm (47-55 in) in length and about 28-32 cm (11-12.5 in) in width. You can lengthen by adding more motifs.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. If you choose a thicker yarn (bulky), switch to a larger hook and expect each motif diameter to increase proportionally. Thinner yarn produces a more delicate motif—adjust hook accordingly and check motif diameter before committing to layout.

Do I need to block the motifs?

Blocking is highly recommended. It evens out stitch tension, opens up lace rounds and aligns scallops for neat joins. Light wet-blocking or steam-blocking works well for cotton or cotton-blend yarns.

How many motifs do I need for a different length runner?

Decide desired runner length and divide by motif pitch (distance from center to center of adjacent large motifs ~16-18 cm). For each additional 20 cm add approximately one large motif and one connector as needed.

Can I machine wash this runner?

If using machine-washable cotton blend yarn, wash on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag and reshape while damp. For best longevity, hand-wash and lay flat to dry to preserve blocking and delicate picots.

What if my puff clusters are too loose or too tight?

Practice on a swatch to match puff height before starting the motif. Keep the same number of loops (7 on hook usually) and consistent tension. Use a smaller hook if puffs are too loose.

How do I prevent motifs from puckering when joined?

Block motifs first and pin them flat before joining. Use evenly spaced joins and avoid pulling yarn tight when joining; aim for slight ease so both motifs lie flush.

Can I make this runner in one solid color?

Absolutely—using a single color creates a sophisticated lacy runner where texture is the feature. Consider variegated yarn for a subtle color shift if you want interest without many tail ends.