Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes — you can use other yarn weights but adjust your hook size accordingly (slightly smaller than the yarn label recommends for tight fabric). Keep in mind gauge changes will alter the final size and thickness.

Do I need to make two panels for this coaster?

Making two panels and joining them creates a sturdier, more absorbent coaster. A single panel can be used, but I recommend adding a felt or cork backing for stability.

How do I get a raised vein detail?

Work FPdc (front post double crochet) along the center stitch column while the panel is flat to create a raised ridge, or use surface slip stitch after finishing for a subtler line.

How do I block the finished leaf?

Wet block by pinning the leaf to a blocking mat in the desired shape, gently stretching the lobes and scallops, then allow to dry. Light steam blocking also works — avoid over-stretching.

How much yarn will I need for a set of four coasters?

For four coasters (eight panels total) you'll need approximately 300-450g of worsted cotton depending on how many rounds and any thicker borders you choose to add.

Can I add metallic thread or embroidery?

Absolutely — metallic thread used sparingly along the veins or scallop edges adds a festive highlight. Use it as a surface stitch to avoid bulk inside the join.

What if my stitch count is off?

If you notice an error, unravel back to where the count was correct. Trying to compensate later often distorts the shape. Use a stitch marker at round starts to help counting.

Autumn Maple Leaf Coaster Pattern

Q: What is the finished size of this leaf coaster?

Based on worsted cotton and a 3.5mm hook, the finished leaf measures approximately 16-18 cm (6.5-7 inches) across at the widest point. Using thicker yarn or a larger hook will increase the size.

Autumn Maple Leaf Coaster Pattern

Create a pair of textured, flat maple leaf coasters inspired by warm autumn tones. This pattern shows how to crochet a sculpted leaf with a raised central vein, scalloped edges and a neat stem — perfect for table decor or a seasonal gift. Two layered panels are worked and joined for a sturdy coaster; the finished pieces sit beautifully under a teapot or mug. Colors shown: bright orange and warm golden ochre.

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Maple Leaf Coaster Pattern

— Main Fabric

01
Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 80-120g in main color (bright orange as shown)
02
50-60g in accent color (warm golden ochre / mustard as shown) for a second leaf
03
Small amounts (10-15g) in contrasting color for stem or edging if desired (dark brown or russet)

— Tools Required

01
3.5mm (E) crochet hook for a tight, dense fabric
02
3.25mm or 3.0mm hook (optional) to tighten edge detail
03
100% cotton worsted weight yarn (main color) and a second contrast color
04
Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
05
Stitch markers (at least 2) to mark round starts and center line
06
Scissors
07
Pins and blocking mat for shaping
08
Optional: light fusible interfacing or thin felt for extra stiffness
09
Optional: small crochet hook (2.75mm) for neat finishing

Progress Tracker

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— Notes & Gauge :

Info :

This pattern makes one flat maple-leaf coaster approximately 16-18 cm (6.5-7 inches) across at the widest point when worked with worsted cotton and a 3.5mm hook. If your gauge is different, your leaf will scale proportionally. Work tightly enough to create a dense fabric suitable for coasters.

Info :

We recommend making two identical leaf panels and joining them together for a sturdy coaster. You can also make a single panel and use a thin lining of felt or interfacing for extra stability.

— Main Leaf Panel (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

At this stage you have built a small round that will become the base from which the leaf lobes expand. Keep tension even; place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to help counting.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

We are increasing to create a generous center that will allow the leaf to fan out into lobes. From here on the leaf will begin to flatten; hold your work in your hand occasionally to visualize the silhouette.

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Info :

Rounds 9-10 create a flat band that forms the leaf's central thickness; this helps the coaster sit flat and absorb moisture. If you want the leaf slightly smaller, skip Round 8 and hold at 42 stitches.

Round 11 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st around (54)

Round 13 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Info :

Round 11 and 13 add surface area for the lobes to form. From here we will begin shaping by adding and removing stitches at measured intervals to create curved lobes and shallow valleys between them.

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st around (60)

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st around (60)

Round 16 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Info :

This round begins the gentle contraction that defines the valleys between lobes. Work invisible decreases (sc2tog) to keep the edge smooth.

Round 17 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 18 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 19 :

1 sc in each st around (42)

Info :

We now have a flattened round that will be pushed outward into a leaf shape by targeted increases in subsequent rounds to create five lobes (two smaller side lobes, two lower lobes, and a larger top lobe). Visualize the points: imagine the circle divided into 6 equal segments; increases will be concentrated in the segments that correspond to lobe tips.

Round 20 :

(4 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc) repeat around to total 48 (48)

Info :

Round 20 places increases in three bands around the circle to begin pushing up three main lobes. Keep the stitch marker on the first stitch of each round and reposition as necessary.

Round 21 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Round 22 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st around (54)

Round 24 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Info :

Rounds 20-24 concentrate increases to define the peaks of the lobes. At this point the fabric will begin to curve at the edges — use light blocking later to flatten if needed.

Round 25 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 26 :

(7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 27 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Round 28 :

(5 sc, dec) x 8 (40)

Info :

Round 28 reduces stitch count to tighten the inner body and help separate individual lobes visually. We will now begin working outward from these bands to shape each lobe tip and edge using a combination of increases and front/post stitches for texture.

Round 29 :

(3 sc, inc) x 10 (50)

Round 30 :

1 sc in each st around (50)

Round 31 :

(5 sc, inc) x 8 (58)

Round 32 :

1 sc in each st around (58)

Info :

Rounds 29-32 create additional surface area for scallops and the lobed outline. If this feels too wide, omit Round 31 and hold at 50 stitches.

Round 33 :

(8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

Round 34 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

Round 35 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Round 36 :

1 sc in each st BLO around (48)

Info :

Round 36 worked in BLO creates a subtle ridge that acts as the base for the central vein detail. Keep tension a touch looser on posts so the ridge relaxes into a soft raised line.

Round 37 :

Work 6 evenly spaced FPdc pairs across the center line of the leaf to start the raised vein: insert a FPdc in the stitch at the center front, then skip 6 stitches, FPdc in next stitch, repeat until 6 FPdc are placed (no change to stitch count) (48)

Info :

Use a stitch marker to mark the start of the center column. FPdc pairs that run perpendicular to the edge will create the visual ridge of the vein. Keep the number even and distributed across the central axis.

Round 38 :

1 sc in each st around, working the tops of FPdc as normal (48)

Round 39 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 40 :

1 sc in each st around (54)

Info :

Finish the panel with a few rounds that stabilize the shape before bordering. If you prefer a more pronounced vein, work an additional row of FPdc aligned directly over the first set, then single crochet around to secure.

Round 41 :

(3 sc, sl st in next st) x 13 (52)

Round 42 :

1 sc in each st around (52)

Info :

Rounds 41-42 reduce and compress the outer row to create a gentle scalloped look. You can stop at Round 40 if you prefer a smoother edge. Fasten off leaving a long tail for joining later.

— Second Panel :

Info :

Make a second identical panel following Rounds 1-42 above, using the same color or a coordinating shade. For a reversible effect, work the row of FPdc on the opposite side for the second panel so that when joined the veins align and one side has deeper texture.

— Stem (Make 1) :

Round 1 :

ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (5)

Round 2 :

ch 1, turn, sc in each st across (5)

Round 3 :

ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog (3)

Round 4 :

ch 1, turn, sc in each st (3)

Round 5 :

ch 1, turn, dec across to 1 st (1)

Info :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching the stem to the base of the leaf. The stem is a short tapered tube; if you prefer a thicker stem, start with 8 chains and add rows accordingly.

— Edge Scallop & Final Border :

Round 1 :

Join panels together: place panels wrong sides together (if you made reversible texture), align edges and begin working around the edge through both loops: join yarn at the base of the stem area, ch 1, sc around through both layers evenly (approx 52 sts) (52)

Info :

Sew the stem into position as you begin joining: tuck the long tail through the base of the panels so the stem sits centered at the bottom. Pin in place if needed. Join tightly but not so tight that the panels cup.

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st around (52)

Round 3 :

*sl st in next st, 3 sc in next st, sl st in next st* repeat around to create small scallops (approx 13 scallops) (52)

Info :

Round 3 creates the decorative scalloped edge that mimics the serrated edge of a maple leaf. If your previous rounds resulted in a slightly different stitch count, space the scallops evenly — maintain the overall rhythm for visual balance.

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st around to smooth and secure scallops (52)

Info :

At this point all raw edges are enclosed. Weave the joining tail through several stitches on the inside of the coaster to hide it and trim close.

— Raised Vein Enhancement (Optional) :

Round 1 :

With panel still flat, using contrast yarn, work a line of surface slip stitches along the center top-to-bottom: insert hook from front to back along the stitch path, bring yarn up and sl st to next marked stitch, continuing until vein is formed (no change to stitch count)

Info :

Surface slip stitch is an elegant way to emphasize the central vein. Use a yarn color one or two shades darker than the main body for subtle contrast. Keep the slip stitches tight and evenly spaced.

Round 2 :

Optionally work two rows of surface stitch on either side at even spacing for a realistic ribbed vein (no change to stitch count)

Info :

If you prefer the raised FPdc approach used in the panel creation, you can instead re-visit the center line and work an additional row of FPdc across both panels before joining to increase texture before edging.

— Finishing & Blocking :

Info :

Lightly wet block your finished leaf by pinning it into a flat leaf shape on a blocking mat. Smooth the lobes and scallops with fingers and allow to dry completely. Cotton responds well to gentle steam or wet blocking; avoid over-stretching to maintain thickness for coasters.

Info :

Weave in all ends on the inside of the joined coaster. If you added a thin felt or interfacing, trim it to match edge before final weave-in. Optionally, use a fabric glue dot at the stem base on the interior for added stability.

— Variations & Tips :

Info :

Change colors between rounds for a gradient leaf. To do this, after Round 24 change to a slightly darker (or lighter) shade and continue the remaining rounds. Carry color along the wrong side or break yarn and weave in later. Consider working only one panel and using a thin cork backing for a coaster with a single fabric face.

Info :

For a larger placemat, increase the number of increase rounds early on (for example do Rounds 7-10 with additional increases: (7 sc, inc)x6 then (8 sc, inc)x6) to expand overall diameter. Keep the subsequent shaping consistent so lobes remain proportional.

Info :

To make a hanging decoration, leave a long tail at the stem and braid it into a loop, or add a small metal ring before final finishing to hang the leaf. Use a copper or gold thread to add a metallic stitch accent along ribs for a festive look.

Info :

When crocheting both panels, place the nicer textured side outwards when joining so the most defined surface faces up on the table. If both are identical, alternate the texture so the coaster looks finished on both sides.

Assembly Instructions

Make two identical Main Leaf Panels following Rounds 1-42. Align panels right sides together (or textured sides facing outward if you prefer the veins on the outside) before joining.
Position the short Stem at the base of the leaf between the two panels. Tuck stem tail into the join and begin sc-joining around the perimeter through both loops, ensuring the stem is centered at the bottom.
Sew the panels together using single crochet through both layers for a neat edge; on the final rounds add scallop stitches as instructed to mimic serrated leaf edges.
If adding a surface vein, do this either on the panels before joining (for deeper texture) or on the finished coaster using surface slip stitch for a shallower detail.
Weave all tails inside the joined coaster; if you used a felt backing, glue or stitch it into place before finishing the edges.
Block the finished coaster by pinning it to the desired leaf shape on a mat and lightly wetting/steaming; allow to dry fully for a flat, even result.
Trim any visible ends and, if needed, add a small dab of fabric glue to interior joins for added durability on items that will see heavy use.
If making a set, keep panels consistent by counting rounds and placing stitch markers; make one panel then immediately make the matched second panel to preserve gauge.

Important Notes

💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
💡Work two identical panels and join for a thick, stable coaster; single panels are fine for placemats but may curl if not blocked.
💡Stuffing is not required — keep the leaf flat and dense. Avoid adding bulk that will change the silhouette.
💡Use 100% cotton yarn for best absorbency and heat resistance under a teapot or mug.
💡Block the finished leaf while damp and pin lobes in place for a crisp silhouette; allow to dry fully.
💡When sewing the stem in, hide the tail inside the join and remove pins only after a few securing rounds to ensure it stays centered.
💡If you prefer a reversible coaster, make sure textures line up when joining and place the nicer side outward.
💡Keep a row counter or a notepad to track rounds, especially when making multiple identical panels.

These cozy maple leaf coasters bring the colors of fall to your table with soft texture and charming detail 🧶. Each pair is made by crocheting two identical panels, adding a raised central vein, and joining for a sturdy, absorbent coaster perfect for tea time. The scalloped edges and tapered stem give a realistic touch that looks beautiful grouped in a stack or scattered across the table. Happy stitching — these small seasonal accents make lovely gifts and quick, satisfying projects! 🍂☕

Autumn Maple Leaf Coaster Pattern

Intermediate Level

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About This Autumn Maple Leaf Coaster Pattern

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Switch Things Up

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

Autumn Maple Leaf Coaster Pattern

Materials Needed for Autumn Maple Leaf Coaster Pattern

— Main Fabric

— Tools Required

Progress Tracker

— Notes & Gauge :

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— Main Leaf Panel (Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

Round 5 :

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Round 6 :

Round 7 :

Round 8 :

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Round 9 :

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Round 11 :

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Round 14 :

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Round 17 :

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Round 19 :

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Round 20 :

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Round 21 :

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Round 23 :

Round 24 :

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Round 25 :

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Round 33 :

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Round 36 :

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Round 37 :

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Round 38 :

Round 39 :

Round 40 :

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Round 41 :

Round 42 :

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— Second Panel :

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— Stem (Make 1) :

Round 1 :

Round 2 :

Round 3 :

Round 4 :

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