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Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern

Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern
4.4★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
4.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Autumn Vibes

Earthy tones with cozy textures inspired by falling leaves and the rich, warm colors of harvest season.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern

This pattern creates a long table runner built from repeated small flower/leaf motifs in autumn colors, with four raised bearded gnome motifs sitting on top of the floral lattice. The gnomes have loop-stitch beards in cream, round crocheted noses, curled tiny arms, and tall cone hats in rust, green, brown, and multi-tonal shades. Flowers are worked in small star/leaf motifs and joined as you go to form the background lattice. The finished runner is lightweight, flat, and decorative — perfect as a centerpiece for fall dining.

Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

Unique features include loop-stitch beards for texture, lightly stuffed noses for dimension, and a modular construction so you can change the number of gnomes or colors. The join-as-you-go floral background makes a delicate openwork base that lets table surface show through.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern

I love the contrast between the airy floral lattice and the plump, cozy gnomes — the looped beards add so much tactile interest. I also enjoy how the hats can be made in different autumn shades to create a coordinated set. The modular approach means you can scale the runner up or down depending on your table, and every time I make one it feels like crafting a tiny harvest parade.

Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved conceiving this table runner because it’s so customizable — change the hat colors to match your holiday or rotate in blues and whites for a winter version. You can also stitch fewer gnomes for a smaller runner or add extra motifs to lengthen it.

Try altering beard loop lengths for a scruffier or neater beard look, or use a boucle yarn for a softer, cloudlike beard texture. If you prefer a sturdier surface, substitute cotton yarn for the motifs and a blend for the hats to keep structure while retaining softness.

I often add tiny embroidered freckles or little felt pumpkins tucked beside the gnomes for an extra seasonal touch; little modifications like beads, tassels, or a contrasting border color can change the whole mood of the runner.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned features and uneven shaping; always mark your first stitch of each round ✗ Inconsistent tension between rounds creates lumpy or uneven surfaces; practice maintaining steady, even tension throughout the entire project ✗ Not stuffing noses and shaping features gradually causes them to collapse; stuff small amounts as you go for best structure ✗ Forgetting to fasten off and weave long tails before joining motifs makes assembly fiddly; leave 12-15 cm tails for sewing and joining ✗ Using the wrong hook size for loop stitches can make loops too loose or too tight; practice the loop stitch and adjust hook size if loops are inconsistent ✗ Skipping Info sections or ignoring placement recommendations can result in misplaced eyes/noses or imbalance across the runner ✗ Joining motifs without blocking opens can produce a wavy runner; lightly block flower motifs before joining for a flat result ✗ Using very fuzzy yarn obscures stitch detail and makes the beard loops lose definition; choose a smooth worsted or DK cotton/acrylic blend

Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern

Create a long, seasonal table runner made from four whimsical bearded gnomes set into a field of layered autumn star/leaf motifs. Each gnome features a looped cream beard, a rounded wooden-look nose, a tall textured cone hat in warm fall colors, and tiny curled arms tucked into the floral background. The runner pieces are individual motifs joined into a narrow, elegant centerpiece perfect for Thanksgiving and harvest displays.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Gnome Bearded Motif Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 300-360g in mixed autumn tones (rust, deep orange, olive green, deep red, mustard, brown variegated) for hats and flower background
  • 02
    150-180g cream or off-white worsted weight yarn for loop-beards and flower highlights
  • 03
    30-40g beige or light tan worsted weight yarn for noses and small details
  • 04
    Small amounts (15-25g each) of dark brown and rust for curled arms and hat accents
  • 05
    Optional: small amount (10-15g) of dark green for accent leaves

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work (adjust if needed for gauge)
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for tighter nose and small parts (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving ends
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing for noses (small amount, ~20g total)
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6) to mark round starts and motif joins
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Pins or blocking pins for flattening flower motifs
  • 08
    Optional: small wooden beads (10-12mm) instead of crocheted nose
  • 09
    Optional: small amount of fabric glue for securing knots

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Nose (Make 4) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Info :

Switch to smaller hook (3.5mm) if you want a tighter nose. Begin stuffing very lightly; nose should be firm but not overstuffed

Round 5 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 6 :

(1 sc, dec) x 4 then 4 sc (8) — alternative shaping to maintain roundness

Round 7 :

2 dec, 4 sc (6)

Info :

Finish stuffing nose firmly to make it pop. Fasten off leaving a long tail (about 15 cm) for sewing. Weave tail through remaining 6 sts and pull closed, weave end into center of nose for a neat finish

— Beard (Looped Flat Triangle - Make 4) :

Round 1 :

Ch 20, turn — this will be Row 1 foundation chain for the triangle beard (20)

Round 2 :

Starting in 2nd ch from hook: sc 19, ch 1, turn (19)

Round 3 :

Ch1, sc in first st, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (decrease), ch1, turn (18)

Round 4 :

Ch1, sc in first st, sc across to last 2 sts, sc2tog, ch1, turn (17)

Round 5 :

Repeat sc rows decreasing 1 st each row until you reach 8 sts at the top point (Rows 5-12) (8)

Info :

We are making a centered triangular beard. Keep edges neat by working last sc of each row into turning chain. Do not fasten off.

Round 13 :

Base loop-row: ch1, turn, evenly place 8 loop-stitches across by working lp (loop stitch) into each st across (8 loops). At the end make 1 sc in last st to anchor (8 loops + 1 sc)

Round 14 :

Ch1, sc in anchor st then *ch3, lp in next sc, ch3, sc in next st* across to form decorative chains and loops (work evenly to keep triangular shape)

Round 15 :

Ch1, turn, create 1 sc in sc spaces, then in each loop from previous row work 1 sc, 1 lp, 1 sc to make a layered curly effect; finish with sc at point (maintain triangle shape)

Round 16 :

Ch1, turn, work a shell pattern across the triangle: [sc, ls(lp), sc] in each previous loop-space to create fullness on the beard face (repeat across)

Info :

Loop stitch technique: wrap yarn twice around your finger or hook to create an elongated loop; pull yarn through and complete sc into loop base to anchor. Keep loops even in length (~1.5–2cm) for consistent beard curls

Round 17 :

Continue shaping rows of loops and sc to expand the base slightly: at the first and last stitch of each row add 1 sc to maintain the triangular flare (approx stitch counts will increase gradually)

Round 18 :

Work 2 more loop rows as in Round 16, staggering loops so they overlap the previous row for a shaggy beard surface

Round 19 :

Ch1, sc across base row into each ch-space forming a strong top edge for sewing to backing (st count ≈ 10-14 depending on loop rows)

Round 20 :

Fasten off leaving long tail (20-25 cm) for sewing onto backing. Optional: block flat so loops hang downwards evenly

— Hat (Tall Cone Hat - Make 4; color per photo: rust, brown variegated, moss green, deep rust) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Info :

Hat is worked top-down in the round. Change color or variegated yarn at start if you want a marled effect. Use the same yarn weight as the beard yarn for uniform texture

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st (48)

Info :

These even rounds let the crown open to a balanced width; try on the hat against the beard to check proportion. If hat looks too wide, do fewer increase rounds earlier

Round 13 :

(6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (42)

Round 15 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 17 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Info :

At this stage the hat length is established. Leave extra rounds for a long slouchy hat like the photo by continuing even rounds rather than decreasing quickly

Round 19-26 :

1 sc in each st (30) — work 8 rounds to build height and a slouching cone

Round 27 :

(4 sc, dec) x 5 + 2 sc (25)

Round 28 :

(3 sc, dec) x 5 (20)

Round 29 :

1 sc in each st (20)

Round 30 :

(2 sc, dec) x 5 (15)

Round 31 :

(1 sc, dec) x 5 (10)

Round 32 :

1 sc in each st (10)

Info :

To create the curled tip visible in the photo, after Round 32 you will work a short spiral: work 10 sc but allow the fabric to twist slightly and then continue with a few ch and sl st to create a curl. Alternatively, fold the tip and stitch to hold curl

Round 33 :

(dec around) 5 dec (5) — if you prefer a fully closed tip, decrease to 5 sts

Round 34 :

Fasten off leaving long tail (25-30 cm) for sewing to backing. Turn hat inside out slightly and press shape, or lightly steam-block to even out stitches

— Small Curled Arms (Make 8 for background clusters & Make 8 tiny arms for gnomes; pattern below for gnome arms: make 4) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (6)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)

Round 4-8 :

1 sc in each st (9) — work 5 rounds to create length of arm

Round 9 :

Working in BLO throughout this round only: 1 sc in each st BLO (9)

Info :

Use tighter tension on the arm to make it feel cord-like. To curl the arm, stitch the tube to itself at the tip with a few whips to hold a spiral

Round 10 :

Dec around: (dec until 3-4 sts remain) reduce to 4 sts

Round 11 :

Fasten off leaving a long tail for attaching; lightly stuff the end if you want a thumb-like appearance

— Backing Oval / Gnome Base (Make 4) :

Round 1 :

8 sc in magic ring (8)

Round 2 :

8 inc (16)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 8 (32)

Info :

This oval will hold the beard, nose and hat. We want a slightly elongated oval: after Round 4 we will work a few short rows at the ends to extend length

Round 5 :

1 sc in each st (32)

Round 6 :

Across the next 8 sts: (2 sc, inc) x 2 to create a slight elongation on both ends; then 1 sc in remaining sts (36)

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (36)

Round 11 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (30)

Round 13 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 14 :

1 sc in each st (24)

Round 15 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Info :

Do not stuff this backing; it should remain flat. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing to the floral background lattice

Round 16 :

Fasten off (18)

— Autumn Star/Leaf Motif (Make many in assorted colors: mustard, olive, rust, burgundy, variegated) :

Round 1 :

Ch 5, sl st to form ring (base ring)

Round 2 :

Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 11 hdc into ring, sl st to join (12)

Round 3 :

*Ch3, sc into next hdc* around to form points — repeat 12 times (12 ch-loops)

Round 4 :

In each ch3 loop: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) to form a fuller petal — repeat 12 petals

Info :

Alternate round or hook size for crisp points. Block petals gently to flatten before joining. Each motif will be joined to neighbors by slip-stitching through outer edges

Round 5 :

Ch1, sc in each st and evenly around petal edges to create a decorative border. Join with sl st and fasten off leaving long tail for joining

Round 6 :

Optional: Add small picot at petal tips: *(ch2, sl st into last st)* around selected petals for lacy edges

Round 7 :

Make extra smaller motifs by using ch4 ring and 8 hdc for tiny filler flowers used along edges

Round 8 :

Fasten off

— Joining Flower Lattice (Join-As-You-Go) :

Info :

Lay out motifs in alternating color pattern. Join motifs by slip-stitching through outer sc border loops; use long tails to secure with a yarn needle. Target a runner width of approximately 6-8 motifs across to create narrow central strip

Round 1 :

Pick two motifs; with RS together, align petal tips and sl st through matching sc border points to join 6 points per side. Continue joining in a snake-like chain until you have a long strip slightly wider than 1 motif (this is your background lattice)

Round 2 :

When joining final edges leave small connecting loops free where gnome backings will be sewn to nestle neatly into the lattice

Info :

Work with motifs flat on a table; pin each join before securing to keep runner straight. Alternately, join with whip stitch using tails for invisible joins

— Gnome Assembly (For each gnome) :

Round 1 :

Position a backing oval onto the lattice where you want the gnome to sit; pin in place centered in one motif cell

Round 2 :

Sew around the backing with mattress stitch using long tail from backing (Round 5 tail) to join to lattice; leave top of backing open enough to slip hat brim edge under

Info :

Place beard so point faces downward and the widest part sits over the backing oval. Use pins to hold beard and backing, then stitch beard around the top edge to secure

Round 3 :

Sew beard top edge to backing across 6-8 evenly spaced stitches so beard hangs over motifs naturally

Round 4 :

Attach nose above the beard point: center nose at top triangle center and baste through the base stitch and backing to secure, then sew around nose with tight whip stitches (use long nose tail)

Round 5 :

Position small arms on either side of beard at approx backing round 10 area; stitch arms under the hat brim so they look tucked in (two stitches each side, then weave tail)

Round 6 :

Slip hat over the top of the nose and beard; fold hat brim inward slightly and sew through brim into backing and top of beard to anchor. Make sure hat tip curls outward like in photo

Info :

Use small, hidden stitches through the hat base and backing to prevent the hat from sliding. Check orientation of hat and beard before finishing stitching

— Decorative Edge and Final Assembly :

Round 1 :

Once all gnomes are positioned, use a single-color thin border yarn (brown or dark olive) and sc evenly around entire runner edge to create a unified border

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc in BLO around the border edge to create a slight ridge and neat finish

Round 3 :

Optional: add small picots at every other sc to mimic scattered little leaves (ch2, sl st back into same stitch) — repeat along entire border

Info :

Weave all loose ends into the underside of the runner. Lightly steam-block if needed to set shape and help motifs lie flat. Do not soak if using certain yarns — test a swatch first

Round 4 :

Final trim: cut tails close to woven-in ends and check for any loose join spots; reinforce if necessary with additional whip stitches

Info :

Allow runner to rest for 24 hours after blocking to let fibers relax. If using wooden beads for noses, glue inside or sew through backing carefully for safety

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach head/backing to floral lattice by positioning backing oval over desired motif cluster, pin firmly, then whip stitch around the backing into adjacent motif points to secure
  • Position beard so its top edge aligns with backing top; stitch through backing and at the top of the beard every 4-6 stitches for a secure seam
  • Sew nose at the triangle top: use a long tail to whip stitch around nose base and into backing, pulling slightly to recess nose into beard for natural look
  • Slip hat over nose and top of beard; fold the hat brim under slightly and sew discreetly through hat base and backing to fasten. Anchor at 4 points around brim
  • Attach arms beneath hat brim on each side by sewing through arm base and backing at rounds equivalent to backing Round 7-9; place arms slightly forward so they peek from beneath hat
  • Join flower motifs using slip-stitch join-as-you-go: align petal tips and sl st through sc border points; secure with extra whip stitches if runner will be handled frequently
  • Sew any tiny filler motifs along the runner edge to fill gaps. Pin before sewing so placement is even along both sides
  • Weave in all ends and block final runner flat. If using beads for noses, ensure they are glued and sewn for safety

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff noses gradually as you work; overstuffing creates lumps under hats
  • 💡For loop beards, practice loop stitch on a swatch to determine proper loop length and adjust hook size if loops are inconsistent
  • 💡Pin motifs before joining to ensure a straight runner and even spacing for gnomes
  • 💡Use whips or mattress stitch to attach larger dimensional pieces like hats and backing for an invisible seam
  • 💡When joining motifs, keep tension relaxed to avoid puckering; tighten only after all joins are made
  • 💡If using wooden beads for noses, secure with both stitches and a dot of glue to ensure longevity
  • 💡If runner will be used on a frequently wiped table, consider using a fabric-safe sealant spray on beads or glued elements

This cozy autumn runner brings the warmth of fall to any table with its layered flowers and jolly gnomes. I love how each little beard and curled hat adds personality to the whole piece. It’s a perfect seasonal project to make for friends and family or to decorate your own home. Gather your autumn yarns and enjoy stitching this charming harvest centerpiece! 🧶🍁

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Using worsted weight yarn and the hook sizes recommended, the runner shown measures approximately 90-100 cm long and 18-20 cm wide. You can scale the runner by adding or removing flower motif repeats.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes — you can use DK or bulky yarn, but adjust your hook size accordingly. DK will produce a slightly smaller, more delicate runner; bulky yarn will make a denser, larger runner. Gauge changes will affect the final dimensions.

Do I need to use wooden beads for noses?

No — you can crochet small noses as instructed, use wooden beads, or embroider a round nose. For toys intended for small children, embroidered noses are safest.

How much yarn will I need in total?

Approximately 600-800 grams of worsted weight yarn total depending on how many motifs you make and hat lengths. The pattern provides color-by-color estimates in the materials section as a guideline.

Can I make the gnomes poseable or three-dimensional?

This pattern builds flat/relief gnomes attached to the lattice. If you want poseable limbs, add small pieces of floral wire or pipe cleaners inside the arms before stuffing, and ensure ends are safely folded and wrapped.

How many motifs do I need to create a runner of this length?

The photo runner uses a long sequence of small motifs joined in a single narrow strip with four gnomes spaced evenly. Expect to make between 60–80 small flower motifs depending on motif size and spacing; make extras for filler pieces.

What needle techniques are best for joining motifs?

Slip-stitch join-as-you-go for an open look, or whip/mattress stitch with tails for an invisible, sturdy join. Blocking motifs before joining helps them sit flat and makes joining easier.

What if my stitch counts drift?

Unravel back to the last correct round and rework from there; trying to compensate later can produce visible distortion. A stitch marker and a row counter will help prevent drift.