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Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern

Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern
4.0★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern

This pattern recreates the layered autumn garland shown in the images: a mix of large maple-style leaves and narrower oak-style leaves in burnt orange, mustard yellow, olive green, cream and rich brown, finished with tiny stuffed acorns. Leaves are worked flat with textured veins made using post stitches and surface slip stitch embroidery. Acorns are small amigurumi pieces worked in the round and attached to braided cords for natural drape.

Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design is modular — make as many leaves and acorns as you like and vary colors for your own seasonal palette. The instructions include detailed shaping, edge scallops, and finishing notes so your garland hangs beautifully.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern

I love this pattern because it captures the cozy, layered look of falling leaves with surprisingly simple crochet techniques. The raised veins and scalloped edges add a tactile, handmade quality I can't resist. I enjoy how the small acorns bring the whole composition to life — they feel like tiny trophies of the season. This pattern is satisfying to make and displays beautifully in any home.

Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved creating this garland because it offers so many ways to customize while keeping the basic structure fun and satisfying. You can change colors to match your seasonal palette, make larger leaves for a statement piece, or tiny leaves for a delicate garland.

I like to switch things up by using variegated yarn for a few leaves so they have subtle color transitions. Another favorite tweak is to add a little metallic embroidery along a central vein for holiday sparkle. You can also replace the braid with a simple wooden dowel or twig for a rustic hanging bar.

Finally, try combining different yarn weights—use cotton for crisp leaves and a wool blend for softer, drapier leaves. Play with asymmetrical layouts and cluster leaves tightly for a fuller effect or space them out elegantly for a minimalist look.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the beginning of rounds will make it hard to track increases and decreases; mark your starting stitch on each round. ✗ Working too loosely for amigurumi acorns results in stuffing showing through; use a slightly smaller hook for tight fabric. ✗ Waiting to embroider veins until after assembly can distort placement; add surface veins to each leaf while it lies flat and unstretched. ✗ Not stuffing acorns gradually causes lumps; add fiberfill in small increments and smooth as you go for an even shape. ✗ Ignoring gauge when aiming for symmetry produces mismatched leaves; measure a test leaf and adjust hook size if needed. ✗ Attaching leaves without pinning can lead to crooked placement; always pin components in place before permanently sewing. ✗ Carrying yarn across open spaces for color changes creates snag points; weave tails neatly or fasten off between colors.

Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern

Create a cozy fall garland featuring layered crochet leaves in warm autumn tones and tiny amigurumi acorns. This pattern teaches two complementary leaf shapes (maple-style and elongated oak-style), a textured acorn, and a braided hanging cord. Finished pieces are flat with raised veins and scalloped edges for a realistic hand-stitched look—perfect for doorways, mantel displays, or seasonal gifts.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Leaf & Acorn Garland Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (#4) approx. 120g in burnt orange (main maple leaf)
  • 02
    50-60g in mustard yellow (accent leaf)
  • 03
    50-60g in olive green (accent leaf)
  • 04
    60-80g in cream/off-white (accent leaf and acorn bodies)
  • 05
    80-100g in chocolate brown (acorn caps and one leaf)
  • 06
    Small amounts (10-15g each) in tan, light brown, and moss green for extra leaves and details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (or size to achieve firm stitches)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for tighter acorn work (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing (small amount for each acorn)
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Pins for blocking and assembly
  • 08
    Tape measure or ruler
  • 09
    Optional: small dab of fabric glue for securing knots
  • 10
    Optional: blocking mat and pins to flatten leaves

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— Materials & Gauge :

Info :

This pattern uses worsted-weight cotton or cotton-blend for crisp stitch definition. Gauge is not critical but aim for a firm fabric: 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet when tension is firm. Leaves are worked flat and acorns in the round. Use a hook 1 size smaller for amigurumi acorns if you prefer a super-tight fabric. Make a small test leaf to confirm size and adjust hook if necessary.

— Maple-style Leaf (Large) :

Round 1 :

Ch 21. This chain will be the central spine base. Count as foundation chain; treat ch 1 as turning space (21 ch total).

Round 2 :

RS: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in next 8 ch (total 9 sc along first half of chain), 3 sc in last ch (turning point), now work down opposite side of chain: 1 sc in next 8 ch, 2 sc in next ch (last ch at base). Total sts this round 9+3+8+2 = 22 sc. (22)

Info :

We are building a symmetric leaf by working along one side of the starting chain, creating a tip with 3 sc in the center, and returning along the opposite side. Keep last stitch tension tidy to avoid a gap at the base.

Round 3 :

Ch 1, turn. (2 sc, inc) in first st, 1 sc in next 7 sts, (1 sc, inc) in next 3 sts (over tip cluster), 1 sc in next 7 sts, (inc, 2 sc) in last 2 sts. Count: left increases add 1, tip adds 3, right adds 1+ extra = total (22 + 6) = 28 sc. (28)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, turn. (2 sc, inc) in first st, 1 sc in next 9 sts, (1 sc, inc) x 3 over tip (increase across center), 1 sc in next 9 sts, (inc, 2 sc) in last 2 sts. Increase pattern distributes. Add 6 stitches. (34)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in first 3 sts, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 1 sc in next 12 sts, (2 sc, inc) x 2 across tip area, 1 sc in next 12 sts, (2 sc, inc) x 2 at base. This round shapes the first subtle lobes. (46)

Round 6 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in first 4, (inc, 3 sc) x 2, 1 sc in next 16, (3 sc, inc) x 2 over tip, 1 sc in next 16, (3 sc, inc) x 2 at base. (58)

Info :

From round 6 onward we begin defining the major lobes. Use stitch markers at the base, tip, and left/right midpoints to track where large increases are placed—this will keep both halves symmetrical.

Round 7 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in first 5, (inc, 4 sc) x 2, 1 sc in next 20, (4 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc in next 20, (4 sc, inc) x 2 at base. (70)

Round 8 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in first 6, (inc, 5 sc) x 2, 1 sc in next 24, (5 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc in next 24, (5 sc, inc) x 2 at base. (82)

Round 9 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in first 7, (inc, 6 sc) x 2, 1 sc in next 28, (6 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc in next 28, (6 sc, inc) x 2 at base. (94)

Round 10 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in each st across this round to even out—no increases. (94)

Info :

Lay the leaf flat now. You should see the general leaf outline forming. If one side looks larger, unpick back a few sts and redistribute increases evenly. Blocking at this stage (pinning flat and spraying lightly with water) will help set shape before adding veins and scalloped edge.

Round 11 :

Ch 1, turn. Work 1 sc in first 6 sts, then start shaping the first deep lobe: (hdc, dc, hdc) in next st to create a small bulge, 1 sc in next 6, (hdc, dc, hdc) across tip center, 1 sc in next 6, (hdc, dc, hdc) in corresponding mirror position, 1 sc to end. Total remains approx. (94) but stitches are rearranged for texture; maintain same count by pairing decreases where necessary.

Round 12 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in each st to stabilize the bulges and blend them into the edge; work evenly across. (94)

Round 13 :

Ch 1, turn. Begin scalloped edge formation: *sc in next 4 sts, (dc, ch 1, dc) all in next st (creates a small point), sc in next 4 sts*; rep across the round mirroring on opposite side. This creates the first scalloped contour. (94)

Info :

Scallop spacing can be adjusted (sc in 3 or 5) depending on how pointy you want the lobes. Keep the count consistent by replacing 1 sc with the picot or small dc cluster as indicated; the overall stitch count will remain similar.

Round 14 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in each st, working into dc clusters as single stitch; this evens the row and strengthens the scalloped points. (94)

Round 15 :

Ch 1, turn. Work surface ridge veins using FLO: 1 sc in first 6, then *FLO hdc in next 6 (pulling front loops), FLO hdc in next 6* across to mark a primary vein position. Continue similarly on mirrored half. This round reorganizes texture only; count remains (94).

Round 16 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in each st to secure veins and even fabric. (94)

Info :

Now add the central spine using surface slip stitch in the next step. This provides the raised center vein visible in photos. Use a long tail or a separate strand in the same color for surface slip stitch embroidery to avoid stretching the leaf.

Round 17 :

Surface slip stitch central vein: With RS facing, join yarn at the base center with sl st, work surface slip stitch up the center of the leaf to the tip, keeping stitches even (do not go through full fabric, just surface loops). Fasten off. Info: This is decorative and does not change stitch counts.

Round 18 :

Ch 1, turn. Work a final edging row for crispness: *sc in next 2, picot (ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook), sc in next 2, sl st in next st* across each scallop, repeat symmetrically. This creates small decorative points around each lobe. Count remains approx. (94).

Round 19 :

Finishing: Fasten off and weave in ends. Pin the leaf flat if desired to set the scallops and central vein. Trim stray fibers. Info: If you want an even firmer leaf, lightly starch and re-block to shape.

— Oak-style Leaf (Elongated) :

Round 1 :

Ch 17. This will be the spine of the elongated oak leaf.

Round 2 :

1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch (7), 3 sc in last ch (tip), now work down opposite side of chain: 1 sc in next 6 ch, 2 sc in last ch at base. Total (7+3+6+2)=18 sc. (18)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, turn. (2 sc, inc) in first st, 1 sc in next 5, (1 sc, inc) in next 3 (tip), 1 sc in next 5, (inc, 2 sc) in last 2 sts. Add 6 sts. (24)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in first 3, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 1 sc in next 8, (2 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc in next 3. (30)

Round 5 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in first 4, (inc, 3 sc) x 2, 1 sc in next 12, (3 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc in next 4. (36)

Info :

Oak-style leaf uses smaller lobes repeated along the edge. Use stitch markers to mark where each little point will be so increases are evenly spaced along both sides.

Round 6 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in each st across to stabilize shape. (36)

Round 7 :

Ch 1, turn. Begin forming lobes: *sc in next 2, (hdc, dc, hdc) all in next st, sc in next 3* across, mirror on return. This creates small pointed lobes (36)

Round 8 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in each st across to even out the lobe edges. (36)

Round 9 :

Ch 1, turn. Work scallop edging: *sc in next 3, picot (ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook), sc in next 3, sl st in next st* repeat across. (36)

Round 10 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in each st across to secure scallops. (36)

Info :

Surface veins: for oak leaf we add a single central vein and 3 pairs of side veins. Use surface slip stitch or embroidery with a strand of the same color or slightly darker for contrast. Work veins before final blocking to avoid distorting shape.

Round 11 :

Surface slip stitch central vein: Join yarn at base center and work surface slip stitch all the way to tip in even spacing. Fasten off. (No change to count)

Round 12 :

Surface slip stitch side veins: Starting near the base, create short surface slip stitch veins angling to the lobes: 3 on each side, each approx. 6-8 slip stitches in length, fasten off. (No change to count)

Round 13 :

Final round: 1 sc in each st, then fasten off and weave in ends. Block to set shape and scallops. (36)

— Small Leaf Variation (Medium-sized) :

Round 1 :

Ch 13. 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 4 ch (5), 3 sc in last ch (tip), 1 sc in next 4 ch back, 2 sc in last ch (base). (5+3+4+2)=14 sc. (14)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, turn. (2 sc, inc) in first st, 1 sc in next 3, (1 sc, inc) x 3 over tip, 1 sc in next 3, (inc, 2 sc) in last 2 sts. Add 6 sts. (20)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, turn. 1 sc in each st across. (20)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, turn. Scalloped edge: *sc in next 2, picot, sc in next 2* across, fasten off. (20)

Info :

Small leaves are useful to layer under larger leaves for depth. Make several in supporting colors to create fullness in your garland.

— Acorn (Make 4-6) :

Round 1 :

Using light tan yarn: mr, 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Round 2 :

Inc around (6 inc). (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6. (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6. (30)

Info :

At round 5 you have reached the widest point of the acorn body. From here we taper downward to form the nut shape. Keep your tension firm to avoid visible stuffing later.

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st around. (30)

Round 7 :

(3 sc, dec) x 6. (24)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around. (24)

Round 9 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6. (18)

Round 10 :

Start stuffing firmly but smoothly with polyester fiberfill. Stuff small amounts at a time, smoothing seam lines and keeping a tapered bottom. 1 sc in each st around. (18)

Round 11 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6. (12)

Round 12 :

Dec around (6). (6)

Round 13 :

Fasten off light yarn leaving long tail for sewing. Weave tail through remaining 6 sts, pull to close and secure. Hide tail inside nut. Info: This completes the nut portion.

Round 14 :

Using brown yarn for cap: mr, 6 sc in magic ring. (6)

Round 15 :

Inc around (6 inc). (12)

Round 16 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6. (18)

Round 17 :

Work 1 sc in each st for 2 rounds to build cap height (18, 18).

Info :

Make the cap slightly wider than the underlying body so it sits naturally over the nut. You can texture the cap with a round of slip stitches in spiral or work popcorn clusters for a bumpy look.

Round 18 :

Round of sl st texture: With RS facing, join in first st and work sl st in each st around in continuous spiral which produces a textured cap surface. Fasten off leaving long tail. Attach cap to nut by sewing through cap base and nut top; hide ends inside the acorn. Stuff cap slightly if needed for roundness.

Round 19 :

Optional: Add a short stem by chaining 6 in brown from the cap top, sl st into first ch to create a small loop, fasten off and sew securely. For hanging, leave a longer chain and braid with other cords as instructed later.

— Braided Hanging Cord & Loop :

Round 1 :

Cut three long strands of coordinating yarn (approx. 40-60 in / 100-150 cm each depending on desired hanging length and number of leaves). Fold strands in half, secure center to a small ring or gather and tie a knot to form loop for hanging. This is not crocheted; it is a prepared cord.

Round 2 :

Braid the three strands tightly for approx. 20-25 inches for main drop, leaving ends loose for attaching leaves. Secure ends with a tight knot. Tip: Taper the end of each strand with a few back stitches or a touch of fabric glue to avoid fraying.

Info :

For a more polished look you can make a twisted cord by crocheting a long chain with 3-4 strands held together and slip stitching the chain into a rope. The pictured garland uses a braided natural-fiber look, so choose a non-stretch cotton yarn to mimic that texture.

Round 3 :

Attachment tails: Cut shorter braided strands (approx. 6-12 in / 15-30 cm) to suspend leaves and acorns at staggered heights. Knot these to the main braid at desired intervals, or use a small sewn loop to attach each leaf and acorn securely.

Round 4 :

Finishing loop: Form a decorative bow at the top by tying a separate short braid into a bow and sewing it to the hanging loop. This hides the knot and creates the bow pictured in the photograph.

— Edge Scallop & Veining Details :

Round 1 :

Edge scallops: With RS facing, join yarn at any base point and work *sc in next 2 sts, picot (ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch), sc in next 2, sl st in next st* around each lobe; this sharpens and defines each point on both maple and oak leaves. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Round 2 :

Raised veins: Use surface slip stitch or embroidery with yarn tail or a contrasting strand. For each leaf, start at base and work straight to tip for central vein. Add two to four pairings of side veins depending on leaf size. Use even spacing to keep a natural look. Info: Use a tapestry needle for surface embroidery if preferred over a crochet hook.

Info :

For extra depth, work one round of BLO single crochet around the perimeter before scallops to create a rim that lifts the scallops away from the base slightly. This is particularly effective on cotton yarn which blocks well.

— Assembly & Layering :

Round 1 :

Plan layout: Lay your braided cord flat and arrange leaves and acorns in the order and heights you want; stagger colors for visual balance. The photographed garland uses a cluster approach (two leaves on top, layered leaves in middle, acorns hanging below).

Round 2 :

Pin placement: Use blocking pins to temporarily secure leaf placement on a flat surface or pin them to the braid to ensure they drape the way you want before sewing. This helps finalize exact positions and heights.

Round 3 :

Sew leaves: Using a yarn needle and matching yarn color, attach each leaf to its short braided tail or directly to the main braid by stitching through the leaf base (the two stitches at the base center). Use ladder stitch or whip stitch to sew the base flat and secure with 8-12 small stitches for stability. Fasten off and hide tails.

Round 4 :

Attach acorns: Thread the chain or short braid through the small loop or stem created on each acorn cap. Knot the braid tightly above the cap, and secure with a couple of stitches into the cap base so the acorn does not slide off. For extra durability add a drop of fabric glue under the knot if desired.

Round 5 :

Layering tip: Slightly overlap leaf edges when assembling to create dimension. Sew only at the base so leaves can retain some movement. Consider a small stitch between overlapping leaves to keep them positioned as a cluster.

Round 6 :

Final touches: Once all pieces are sewn in place, hang the garland and step back to ensure balance. Trim any long tails and weave in all ends. Block again if edges need reshaping. Your garland is now ready to display.

— Variation Notes & Colorwork :

Info :

Color changes: Change yarn color between leaf sections or make some leaves variegated by switching colors at the start of a row. For stripes, carry yarn along the wrong side and catch it every 4-6 sts to keep floats small. If crocheting in cotton, color changes reveal clean edges—fasten off between colors for a crisp look.

Info :

Making more leaves: Multiply patterns as needed. The photographed garland contains 6-8 leaves and 4 acorns; adjust quantity to suit your space. For a fuller garland make 10-12 leaves in assorted sizes.

Info :

Storing and washing: Handwash gently in cool water, reshape while damp and lay flat to dry. Cotton yarn can be ironed on low under a damp cloth if needed to reshape scallops.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach leaves to the braided cord by sewing through the base center of each leaf (the last few stitches at the base). Pin desired placement first, then secure with 8-12 short stitches using matching yarn.
  • Sew acorns to short dangling cords by threading the cord through the small cap loop and knotting tightly above the cap; secure by stitching through the cap base to prevent sliding.
  • Layer leaves by placing larger leaves at the back and smaller ones in front; sew only at the base so the lobes can remain slightly lifted for dimension.
  • Make a hanging loop at the top of the braid by folding the braid and tying a knot or sewing a small ring to the loop; cover the knot with a decorative braided bow and sew it in place.
  • Pin and block each leaf flat before final sewing to ensure scallops and veins lie correctly. Use rust-proof pins and a blocking mat if available.
  • Weave and hide all yarn tails inside leaves or acorn caps; secure with small backstitches and trim close to the fabric for a neat finish.
  • Optional: Add small stitches between overlapping leaves to hold clusters steady during display and prevent shifting.
  • If adding extra weight to the bottom for better hang, sew a small pebble pouch inside a brown leaf or behind an acorn cap for subtle ballast.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning and at the key lobe junctions to maintain symmetry across leaf halves.
  • 💡Stuff acorns gradually as you decrease to avoid lumps; small amounts of filling distributed evenly yield a smooth shape.
  • 💡Block leaves before sewing to the braid if you want crisp scallops and even veins; dampen lightly and pin to shape until dry.
  • 💡For tight amigurumi acorns use a hook one size smaller than you used for leaves to prevent stuffing from showing through stitches.
  • 💡When attaching pieces, use a yarn needle with a length of matching yarn and take small stitches through the base stitches; avoid sewing through the visible lobes.
  • 💡Keep your tension even across leaf rounds; inconsistent tension creates uneven lobes and scallops.
  • 💡If floats from color changes bother you, fasten off and weave in ends between rounds rather than carrying the yarn across wide sections.
  • 💡Prioritize pinning placement before final sewing—small adjustments while pieces are loose are far easier than after stitching.

This autumn leaf and acorn garland is a lovely seasonal accent that combines textural crochet leaves and tiny amigurumi acorns into a cohesive display. Each detailed leaf brings a handcrafted warmth to tabletops, doorways, or mantels — a perfect cozy project to celebrate the changing seasons. I hope this pattern inspires you to make a few extra as gifts or decorations. 🍁🧶

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this garland?

Based on the yarn weight and hook sizes recommended, a typical finished garland with 6-8 leaves and 4 acorns measures approximately 22-30 inches (55-75 cm) from top loop to bottom acorn. You can easily adjust length by changing braid length or making additional leaves.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Thicker yarn will yield larger, more sculptural leaves and larger acorns; thinner yarn produces delicate leaves. Adjust hook size accordingly (usually 1-2 sizes down for tighter fabric in amigurumi acorns).

Do I need to add wire for shaping leaves?

No wire is necessary for the flat leaves shown — careful blocking and surface-vein work are sufficient. If you want poseable leaves, you can insert thin floral wire along the central vein before attaching (wrap the wire tip in yarn to avoid poking).

How much stuffing will I need for acorns?

Each small acorn uses only a few grams of polyester fiberfill. For 4-6 acorns, approximately 10-30 grams total is sufficient. Use small amounts and pack gradually to maintain smooth shaping.

How do I make veins stand out?

Use surface slip stitch (crochet) or chain and backstitch embroidery with a slightly darker or same color yarn. For raised veins, work FLO hdc rows before surface stitching to create a subtle ridge to follow.

Can I make this child-safe?

To make it child-safe, avoid using small sewn-on parts that could detach. Omit acorns or embroider acorn features rather than stuffing. Use yarn ties and strong stitching for all attachments.

What if my leaf sizes are inconsistent?

Check your tension and hook size. Block each leaf after finishing — wet-blocking and pinning to consistent templates will make them uniform. Adjust by adding or removing a row of scallops if necessary.

How do I wash the finished garland?

Handwash gently in cool water, reshape while damp and lay flat to dry. Avoid wringing; press with a towel to remove excess water. Cotton yarn tolerates gentle washing but avoid tumble drying.