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Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern

Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern
4.3★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
3.9K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern

This table runner is constructed from multiple lacy medallion motifs joined into a long band, finished with a scalloped edge of small leaf diamonds and embellished with layered 3D leaf appliques and tiny bobble berries. Main background is a soft cream/ivory; appliques use warm autumn tones (terracotta, mustard, olive, deep plum, taupe). The runner pictured measures long enough for a narrow dining table and showcases symmetrical placement of leaves and berries flowing along a central vine.

Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design uses modular motifs for easy replication and assembly. Appliques are worked separately and sewn on for dimensional texture, while a crocheted stem ties the composition together.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines elegant lacework with cozy, textured appliques that feel both refined and rustic. The layered leaves and plump berries add a tactile, seasonal charm I find irresistible. Working the medallions is relaxing and repetitive, while the 3D leaves are enjoyable detail work that really make the runner sing.

Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved laying out the color palette for this runner — the warm rust, mustard, olive and plum made the leaves feel rich and cozy. If I were to make it again, I might replace a few large leaves with mini pumpkins or tiny acorns worked as amigurumi bobbles.

I often change scale by swapping yarn weight: a finer yarn with smaller hook gives a delicate, lacey runner for a side table, while a chunkier worsted creates a bolder centerpiece. You can also switch to tonal neutrals for a more subdued look, or go bright jewel tones for holiday flair.

I recommend experimenting with join methods: I like join-as-you-go for fewer ends, but sewing the medallions after blocking lets me place appliques more accurately. Don’t be afraid to add ribbons, small wooden beads, or a contrasting central vine to truly make the design your own.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned medallions and uneven joins; always mark your first stitch of each round. ✗ Inconsistent tension between medallions creates mismatched sizes; block motifs lightly to even them out before joining. ✗ Not weaving in ends and tails while assembling leads to visible loose threads later; leave long tails for sewing and weave securely. ✗ Sewing appliques down without pinning first often results in crooked placement; pin and dry-fit before final stitching. ✗ Stuffing berries too tightly makes them look stiff and disproportionate; use just enough fiberfill for a soft round shape. ✗ Changing yarn colors without securing carried yarn may create loose floats on the wrong side; fasten off and begin new color for neat joins. ✗ Using a hook that's too large for lace rounds causes a floppy runner that won’t lie flat; use recommended hook and block motifs.

Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern

A long, elegant table runner adorned with lacy ivory medallions, layered 3D autumn leaves in warm rust, mustard, olive and brown tones, and tiny bobble berries. The runner combines delicate lace rounds and textured appliques for a cozy, harvest-season centerpiece. Step-by-step modular motifs make this a satisfying sew-together project to decorate your dining table all season long.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Leaves Crochet Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 300-350g in main background color (soft cream/ivory)
  • 02
    40-60g in warm rust (deep terracotta) for large maple-style leaves
  • 03
    40-60g in mustard/goldenrod for accent leaves
  • 04
    40-60g in olive/forest green for smaller leaf variations
  • 05
    30-40g in deep plum/burgundy for small leaf diamonds and accents
  • 06
    30-40g in taupe/soft brown for neutral leaves and veining
  • 07
    Small amounts (10-20g each) of coordinating colors for embroidered veins and tiny berry bobbles (cranberry red, mustard, olive)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main lace medallions (adjust to yarn tension)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for leaf appliques and small motifs (optional)
  • 03
    2.75mm (C) hook for tiny bobble berries (optional)
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill stuffing for berries (small amount)
  • 05
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing appliques and weaving ends
  • 06
    Stitch markers (several) to mark round starts and join points
  • 07
    Scissors
  • 08
    Pins for blocking and laying out motifs before assembly
  • 09
    Blocking mat and pins or spray starch for flattening medallions
  • 10
    Optional: Tailor's chalk or washable marker for placement guidelines

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— Notes & Overview :

Info :

This pattern is modular: create lacy medallion motifs (make 6 for runner pictured), small diamond leaf motifs for border, layered 3D leaf appliques and tiny berry bobbles. Join medallions in a straight column and add an edging of small leaf diamonds. Sew appliques and berries onto medallions after assembly. Block motifs lightly for crisp joins.

Info :

Gauge is not critical but recommended tension: medallion (unblocked) ~13 cm/5 in across using 3.5mm hook and worsted weight yarn. Adjust hook to achieve a flat medallion that blocks well. Use stitch markers at round starts.

— Lacy Medallion (Make 6) :

Round 1 :

MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc into ring, join with sl st to top of ch-3 (12 dc)

Round 2 :

Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, join (24 dc)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 3, sk next st, sc in next) around to create 12 ch-3 loops, join to first sc (12 ch-3 sps)

Round 4 :

Sl st into first ch-3 sp, *ch 3, 8 dc in same ch-3 sp, ch 3, sl st in same ch-3 sp; sl st into next ch-3 sp; rep from * around to form 12 lacy petals, join (petal clusters formed)

Info :

Ensure petals are evenly spaced; gently block at this stage to shape. Use stitch counts above to verify even distribution of clusters.

Round 5 :

Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in same st, *ch 2, sk 3 dc of petal cluster, (hdc, dc, hdc) in top of next petal, ch 2, sk 3 dc, sl st in base between petals; rep from * around, join (12 textured petal tops)

Round 6 :

Join with sl st into a ch-2 space, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, *3 dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, join (12 clusters, 36 dc total)

Round 7 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 4, sc in next ch-1 sp) around to create 12 ch-4 arches, join (12 ch-4 sps)

Round 8 :

Into each ch-4 sp: (sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc) to form fan shells; join (12 fans)

Info :

Fans make the medallion lacy and slightly scalloped. Work evenly in each space; if needed place a stitch marker at each fan apex to count easily.

Round 9 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sk to next fan apex, sc in apex; rep around, join (12 ch-3 sps)

Round 10 :

Sl st into ch-3 sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp (shell), *sl st to next ch-3 sp, ch 3, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same sp; rep around, join (12 shell motifs)

Round 11 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 5, sc in ch-2 sp of shell; rep around creating 12 long arches, join (12 ch-5 sps)

Round 12 :

In each ch-5 sp: (sc, hdc, 6 dc, hdc, sc) to expand the medallion outer round; join (12 large fans)

Info :

At this stage verify medallion lies flat. If curling occurs, block each medallion with steam or pins to flatten before continuing. Blocking ensures uniform join edges later.

Round 13 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, (ch 4, sc in center dc of fan) around to create 24 ch-4 loops (2 per fan), join (24 ch-4 sps)

Round 14 :

Into each ch-4 sp: sc, hdc, 4 dc, hdc, sc (forming a delicate scalloped outer row), join (24 scallops)

Round 15 :

Ch 1, sc in each st around in BLO to create a neat ridged edge (total sts will equal number of stitches from previous round; expect 24 × 7-ish counts depending on fan width—work one sc per top of scallop across full round)

Info :

Work round 15 in BLO to give a subtle ridge for easier joining to neighboring medallions later. If your stitch count varies slightly due to fans, maintain even spacing and count approximate sc across whole round.

Round 16 :

Ch 1, sc in each st (working both loops) around to firm edge and standardize count (approx 96 sc depending on previous counts). Join and fasten off, leaving long tail for seaming.

Info :

Fasten off and weave in end temporarily or leave long tail for joining. Make 6 medallions identical in color mc (ivory) and block all medallions before joining.

— Small Diamond Leaf Motif (Edge) (Make 36-44) :

Round 1 :

MR, ch 2, 8 hdc into ring, join with sl st (8 hdc)

Round 2 :

Ch 2, hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st around, join (16 hdc)

Round 3 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in next st; rep around to make 8 ch-3 sps, join (8 ch-3 sps)

Round 4 :

Into each ch-3 sp: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to create 8 mini fans, join

Round 5 :

Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, ch 5, sc in base between next two fans to form pointed diamond corner; rep to make 8 ch-5 sps, join

Round 6 :

In each ch-5 sp: (sc, hdc, 6 dc, hdc, sc) to make elongated diamond points; join. Fasten off and weave ends. Make these in alternating accent colors (plum, mustard, rust, olive, taupe) and block flat.

Info :

Make enough diamond motifs to edge both long sides of the runner and both short ends. Use an odd/even placement guide when assembling so pattern alternates color across runner edges.

— Large 3D Leaf Applique (Make 12 assorted colors) :

Round 1 :

With chosen leaf color, ch 13 (foundation chain). Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across to last ch; turn (12 sc)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc across to end, then work along opposite side of foundation chain: sc across to first ch to finish oval, do not join (24 sc total around foundation)

Round 3 :

Ch 2, hdc in same st, (ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc in next) across the long edge until apex, at tip: (hdc, dc, hdc) to form point, continue along the other side (hdc in next, ch 1, sk 1) back to base. End with sl st and fasten off for base leaf shape.

Round 4 :

Reattach at base with sl st, ch 3, dc in same st, (sk 1, 2 dc) along long edge every other stitch to create discrete segments; at tip work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) for pointed tip; mirror along opposite side; join and fasten off.

Round 5 :

With contrast taupe or darker shade for veins, embroider central vein: using tapestry needle and long tail, bring yarn from center base to tip on top surface, then split into smaller veins: create V-shaped embroidered veins on each side by couching yarn with small running stitches from center vein to edges (5–7 veins each side depending on leaf size).

Round 6 :

Optional raised rib: using surface slip stitch or hdc along central vein to create a raised ridge. For more texture, work a decorative picot edge by sl st along leaf perimeter adding picots at the outermost points (ch 3, sl st into same st).

Info :

Large leaves are slightly cupped for realism. If necessary, use a small damp cloth and pin leaf into a shallow curved position while drying. Use thin fiberfill sparingly at the base for slight lift if desired.

Round 7 :

If you want extra dimension, stitch a short length of chain (ch 8-12) to back center as a stem and coat with slip stitch rounds to create rope-like stem; secure and weave in ends. Repeat to make leaves in various sizes and colors (rust, mustard, olive, taupe, plum).

— Small Serrated Leaf (Make 18) :

Round 1 :

MR, ch 3, 6 dc into ring, join (6 dc)

Round 2 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sc in next dc; rep around to form 6 ch-3 sps, join

Round 3 :

In each ch-3 sp: (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) to make small pointed leaf shapes (6 leaves), join, fasten off. Add embroidered central vein with running stitch.

Info :

These small serrated leaves are perfect to tuck between large leaves and berries. Work in a mix of olive, taupe and plum for variety.

— Tiny Berry Bobble (Make 18-22) :

Round 1 :

With small hook (2.75mm) and berry color, MR, ch 1, 6 sc into ring (6)

Round 2 :

(Inc) x6 (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st around (12)

Round 4 :

(Dec) x6 (6)

Round 5 :

6 sc, pull short tail and gather, stuff lightly with a tiny amount of fiberfill, finish closing and fasten off leaving long tail for sewing (6)

Info :

Make berries in two sizes if desired: for a smaller berry use MR, 6 sc and fasten off at 6 sc; for plumper one add an extra round of inc before evening out. Attach berries in clusters of 3–5 using yarn tails.

— Stem/Rope (Make 1 long vine and 6 short stems) :

Round 1 :

Ch to desired stem length (runner pictured uses one central vine of approx 120–140 cm woven across medallions, plus short stems 6–10 cm each). Use mc or taupe for natural stem color.

Round 2 :

Row: Work slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across to form a firm cord (i-cord style). Fasten off and weave in ends. For thicker stem, round the cord by working sc around cord (work 3 sc per one chain stitch length) to create a rounded rope.

Info :

Pre-measure stems before laying out appliques so positions of small branches and leaf clusters align with medallion centers. Use pins to secure stem during assembly.

— Decorative Joining & Edge (Scallop Join) :

Round 1 :

Arrange 6 medallions in a straight column and mark seam points where three scallop points meet on adjoining medallions. Join medallions using whip stitch or mattress stitch through outer ridged rounds (round 15–16 on medallion). Join medallion A to B by aligning edges and sewing through corresponding BLO ridge stitches every 4–6 sc for stability.

Round 2 :

After joining central medallions, attach small diamond motifs to long edges. Pin each diamond so its point fits between scallops. Using yarn tail, sew diamonds to the medallion edges with small invisible stitches; place diamonds in alternating colors for a rhythmic edge.

Round 3 :

For short ends, create a row of diamonds that mirror each other and tuck seam edge under for a polished finish. Secure firmly and weave all ends on the wrong side to maintain clean top surface.

Info :

Joining method: either join-as-you-go (JAYG) by slip stitching motifs together along round 16 edges or sew after blocking. JAYG yields fewer ends to weave; sewing allows more precise applique placement. Choose preferred method and test on first medallion pair.

Round 4 :

Once diamonds are sewn, create a final scalloped picot edge around entire runner by working 1 sc into each visible sc around, and at every point work (ch 3, sl st into same st) to form picots. This gives a delicate beaded finish to the edge.

Info :

Counts across joining rounds will vary slightly due to fan stitches and diamond attachment. Aim for visually even spacing rather than mechanical exactness—matching neighboring seams is most important for aesthetic balance.

— Placement & Sewing of Appliques :

Info :

Layout the runner face-up on a large flat surface. Place large leaves along a central line in an alternating left-right pattern across the medallions. Tuck small serrated leaves and berries at intersections of leaf tips and stems. Pin everything in place first to evaluate spacing and balance.

Round 1 :

Sew large leaves by threading tapestry needle with long tails left when finishing leaf. From underside, stitch through base of leaf into medallion edge (around medallion round 12–15), use ladder stitch or whip stitch and secure with multiple passes at base; knot and weave tail inside wrong side.

Round 2 :

Sew small serrated leaves with a few invisible stitches along midrib. Sew berry clusters by sewing each berry through its center into medallion fabric, then stitch stems (chains) to anchor point and secure ends on wrong side.

Info :

Be careful not to stretch medallion fabric while sewing appliques. Use short stitches and avoid pulling tight; this preserves the lacy surface and keeps appliques sitting atop the medallion rather than pulling it out of shape.

— Final Finishing Touches :

Info :

After attaching all appliques and berries, steam block runner lightly: lay flat, pin edges to desired shape, spray lightly with water or steam from a distance and let dry overnight. This flattens joins and sets appliques in a gentle arch if desired.

Round 1 :

Trim any visible ends and weave tails securely through multiple stitches on the wrong side. Check both sides for loose threads and secure them. If desired, use a tiny dab of fabric glue at key joins on wrong side for extra stability (optional).

Info :

Use pins to shape the runner on table and spot-check placement; shift appliques slightly if necessary before final secure. Label the underside with fabric tag or tiny loop for hanging if this is used as wall decor rather than table runner.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach medallions together in a straight column aligning ridged round 15–16 edges. Pin medallions in position first then sew through corresponding BLO ridges using mattress stitch, keeping seams flat and unobtrusive.
  • Pin small diamond motifs along both long edges and sew them to medallion scallops. Alternate colors to create repeating rhythm; use small invisible stitches along the outer loop of the medallion to anchor diamonds.
  • Lay out central vine/stem across joined medallions and pin into position. Sew stem in place by stitching through the cord at regular intervals into the medallion fabric, being careful not to pull and distort lace.
  • Position large 3D leaves along the central vine in alternating left-right placements. Sew leaf bases to medallion between rounds 12–15 using long tapestry needle and multiple passes for stability.
  • Cluster berries in groups of 3–5 and sew them at natural leaf junctions. Use small serrated leaves to tuck under berry clusters for a natural look and stitch securely.
  • After all appliques are sewn, add final picot scallop edging around entire runner by working sc and picot stitches along outer edge for a unified finish.
  • Block the completed runner flat: pin to shape, lightly steam or spray with water, and let dry fully. This evens motif sizes and tightens joins for a professional finish.
  • Secure all loose ends by weaving through several stitches on the wrong side and trim close. If gifting or washing, test a small hidden area for colorfastness first.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping while making medallions and leaf motifs.
  • 💡Stuff berry bobbles very lightly and use minimal stuffing for subtle, natural-looking berries—overstuffing causes visible lumps beneath appliques.
  • 💡Block each medallion and motif before joining; blocked pieces match more accurately and join seams lie flat and neat.
  • 💡When embroidering veins, use a contrasting shade only slightly darker than the leaf to retain subtle realism without harsh lines.
  • 💡If joining medallions with join-as-you-go, test the tension on your first join and adjust so the runner does not pull inward or flare out.
  • 💡Weave in ends as you go when possible to avoid a large number of tails at the end. Leave longer tails specifically for sewing appliques.
  • 💡Keep a layout sketch or photo of intended placement when sewing appliques so you replicate symmetrical placement on both ends of the runner.
  • 💡If the runner will be washed regularly, consider stitching appliques down extra firmly and using colorfast yarns to prevent bleeding.

Completing this table runner is such a joyful milestone! The combination of lacy medallions with warm autumn leaves and little berry clusters makes a cozy yet sophisticated centerpiece. Each motif you crochet and sew on adds personality, and the blocking step truly brings everything together. I hope this runner brings autumnal cheer to your table and sparks compliments at every gathering. 🧶🍁

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Based on the specified materials and medallion count (6 medallions joined), the finished runner measures approximately 140–150 cm (55–59 in) long and 28–32 cm (11–12.5 in) wide. Changing yarn weight or number of medallions will change final size.

Can I change the number of medallions or runner length?

Yes. Add or remove medallions to lengthen or shorten the runner. Ensure you have enough small diamond motifs for the edges when changing layout, and adjust stem length accordingly.

What yarns are best for this project?

A worsted weight (4) yarn such as cotton-blend or acrylic-cotton is ideal for crisp lace that blocks well. Choose colorfast yarns if you plan to wash the runner often.

Do I need to block each motif?

Blocking is highly recommended. It evens out motif shapes, makes joins easier, and gives the runner a polished, professional appearance.

Can I machine wash the runner?

Machine washing is not recommended unless your yarn label specifically states machine-washable. Hand wash gently and lay flat to dry to preserve shape and appliques.

How many small diamonds and leaves will I need?

For the runner pictured you will need approximately 36–44 small diamond edge motifs and 12 large leaves plus 18 small serrated leaves and 18–22 berries, but exact counts depend on placement choices.

Can I use a different joining method?

Absolutely. Join-as-you-go slip stitches, whip stitch, mattress stitch, or a crocheted join can all be used. Choose the method that gives the visual seam and strength you prefer.

How do I avoid holes under appliques when sewing?

Use small, tight invisible stitches; avoid pulling yarn too tight; and anchor stitches into denser rounds of the medallion (rounds 12–16) where fabric is firmer to prevent gaps.