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Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern

Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern
4.5★ Rating
3-5 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Afternoon Project

Takes 3-5 hours, perfect for an afternoon or evening of relaxing crochet.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern

This pattern recreates the beautiful maple-leaf shaped doily pictured — a single-layer, flat motif with eight pointed lobes and an airy lacy center. Worked in sport/ DK-weight cotton and using a smaller hook, it achieves crisp stitch definition and a neat, textured surface that shows off leaf 'veins' created with front/post and ribbed stitch techniques. The color shown is a warm rust/orange that highlights autumnal styling and surface texture.

Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design uses repeated rounds to build eight symmetrical lobes with decorative picots and shells to give a botanical silhouette. It blocks beautifully to emphasize the points and openwork.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern

I love how this pattern transforms simple stitches into a delicate, sculptural leaf — the tiny eyelets at the center and the pronounced lobes give it character. I also enjoy the tactile ridges formed by working into front or back loops and the satisfying symmetry when you reach each winged point. It's an elegant little piece that makes a big seasonal statement on a table or shelf.

Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this leaf because it offers so many creative customization options while staying forgiving in construction. You can play with yarn weight and hook to make a tiny ornament or a large table centerpiece; the same radial repeat structure just scales up or down gracefully.

I recommend experimenting with contrasting edging colors for a two-tone look — a darker rust or deep green border will really make the points pop. You can also replace picot serrations with small shells or beads if you want a dressier version. Finally, try surface embroidery over the ribs to add a metallic thread highlight for festive displays.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping a stitch marker at the start of each new round will cause the borders of the leaf lobes to shift and ruin symmetry; always mark round starts ✗ Changing tension mid-project creates waves or floppy sections; maintain consistent tension for even, flat fabric ✗ Working chain spaces too loosely makes holes that are oversized and distort the leaf shape; tighten chain anchors slightly ✗ Forgetting to block at the end will leave the points less defined; wet-block or steam-block to open the lace and sharpen tips ✗ Using too large a hook creates a floppy doily where the stitches do not show; use recommended hook for crisp stitches ✗ Not counting increases precisely by group (the pattern is built in 8 repeats) will cause uneven lobes; always check counts by 8s ✗ Pulling yarn tails short when finishing leaves the edges unable to be woven in securely; leave enough tail to stitch and hide ✗ Skipping the FLO/BLO rounds used to create ribs will flatten the vein texture and lose detail

Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern

A delicate, vintage-inspired maple leaf doily crocheted in warm rust cotton. This flat decorative piece features an openwork center, radiating vein-like stitches and pointed lobes finished with a picot and shell edging. Sized to sit on a desk or under a mug, it brings cozy autumn charm to any space.

Intermediate 3-5 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Maple Leaf Doily Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Sport to DK weight cotton yarn, approximately 50-70g in main color (rust / warm orange as pictured)
  • 02
    Small amount (10-15g) of neutral or contrast for optional edging if desired (e.g. cream or darker rust)
  • 03
    Use mercerized cotton for best stitch definition and blocking behavior

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (or recommended for your chosen yarn to create firm stitches)
  • 02
    Optional: 3.25mm (D) hook if you prefer tighter fabric for crisp lace edges
  • 03
    Tapestry / yarn needle for weaving in ends
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 2-4)
  • 06
    Blocking pins and a blocking mat or foam board
  • 07
    Measuring tape or ruler to check diameter while working
  • 08
    Optional: small crochet hook for fasten-off and tidy edging
  • 09
    Optional: light starch or craft spray for extra stiffness after blocking

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Center :

Round 1 :

8 sc in magic ring (8)

Round 2 :

8 inc (16)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (32)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (40)

Info :

The center rounds form a tight disk. Keep your tension even and pull the magic ring closed so there is no gap. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of Round 6 to mark round starts.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (48)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (56)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (64)

Round 9-10 :

1 sc in each st (64)

Info :

Rounds 9-10 form a stable base for the first ring of eyelets. Keep the fabric flat by not over-tightening when joining rounds; use a continuous spiral or join-and-ch to keep your seam invisible.

— Eyelet Ring and Early Lace :

Round 11 :

(1 sc, ch 3, skip 1) x 32 (64 anchor points)

Info :

This creates small ch-3 eyelets that appear as holes in the photograph. The stitch count remains anchored to 64 because each ch-3 is worked between adjacent stitches; treat each chain space as one anchor for the next round.

Round 12 :

Work into each ch-3: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) into each ch3-sp (64 clusters)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each stitch across clusters (64)

Info :

Round 12 builds the first petal-like clusters around the center. Use your fingers to flatten the clusters evenly so the center stays circular and not wavy.

— Increasing to Create 8 Lobes :

Round 14 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (72)

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st (72)

Round 16 :

1 sc in each st BLO (72)

Info :

Working BLO on Round 16 produces a shallow ridge that will begin to read as a 'vein' texture on the leaf underside. If you prefer a less obvious vein, work this round in regular sc.

Round 17 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (80)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st (80)

Round 19 :

*(sc, ch 4, sl st into next anchor) repeat* to form decorative arches (80 anchors)

Info :

Round 19 adds delicate arching that reads as small openwork between later ribs; keep ch-loops even by tensioning the yarn gently while forming arches.

Round 20 :

Work into each arch: sc, hdc, (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) shell, hdc, sc across each ch4-sp (80 shells)

Round 21 :

1 sc in each st (80)

Info :

This shell round forms the first scalloped suggestion that transitions the round center into shaped lobes. Make sure each shell is centered over its anchor to maintain symmetry.

— Forming the Primary Veins :

Round 22 :

(9 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (88)

Round 23 :

1 sc in each st FLO (88)

Round 24 :

1 sc in each st (88)

Info :

Working FLO at Round 23 creates a small ridge on the surface which will act as a raised vein on the top of the leaf. If you prefer sharper veins, use a slightly smaller hook for this FLO round.

Round 25 :

(10 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (96)

Round 26 :

1 sc in each st (96)

Round 27 :

Work a decorative filet round: *(dc, ch2, dc) into next 2 anchors, sc into next anchor* repeat across (96 anchors)

Info :

Filet style stitches introduce controlled open spaces that will echo the leaf's natural openings. Keep the dc pairs tight enough to ensure the opening feels like a design element rather than a loose gap.

— Building Lobe Height and Texture :

Round 28 :

(11 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (104)

Round 29 :

1 sc in each st BLO (104)

Round 30 :

1 sc in each st (104)

Info :

Rounds 28-30 build the circumference and begin to separate the eight lobes visually. Keep counts tight and even; miscounts will quickly become visible when the lobes are formed.

Round 31 :

(12 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (112)

Round 32 :

1 sc in each st (112)

Round 33 :

Work into each group of 14 anchors around imagined lobe centers: (sc, ch3, sk1, 3 dc cluster, ch3, sc) repeated to emphasize future points (112)

Info :

Round 33 adds small vertical clusters that will become the backbone of each lobe’s central vein. When forming clusters, ensure each cluster sits centered in its lobe segment for even point shaping later.

— Expanding Lobes and Veins (multi-texture rounds) :

Round 34 :

(13 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (120)

Round 35 :

1 sc in each st (120)

Round 36 :

1 hdc in each st BLO (120)

Info :

HDC in BLO softens the texture and adds height without widening much. This helps the leaf lie relatively flat while subtly raising the vein lines.

Round 37 :

(14 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (128)

Round 38 :

1 sc in each st (128)

Round 39 :

Surface ribbing round: sl st in next 2, *fpdc around next st, sl st next 2* repeat across (128)

Info :

Front-post double crochet ribs create accentuated vein ridges that mimic the leaf veins in the photo. Work evenly and align ribs so eight distinct vein groups emerge radially.

— Developing Outer Lobes :

Round 40 :

(15 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (136)

Round 41 :

1 sc in each st (136)

Round 42 :

1 sc in each st FLO (136)

Info :

FLO here raises another faint ridge and helps the lobes keep a rounded profile. Take a moment to check symmetry — count groups of 17 (per lobe) to verify placement.

Round 43 :

(16 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (144)

Round 44 :

1 sc in each st (144)

Round 45 :

Decorative arch round: *(sc, ch5, sl st into base) repeat* (144 anchors)

Info :

Arch rounds add airy negative space reminiscent of the lacy motifs in the image. Keep tensions even so arches form consistent curves across all lobes.

— Heightening Lobe Tips (multiple shaping rounds) :

Round 46 :

(17 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (152)

Round 47 :

1 sc in each st (152)

Round 48 :

1 hdc in each st BLO (152)

Info :

These rounds build the body of each lobe. If you notice any lobe larger than the others, you may have miscounted an earlier increase — unravel back to the last even round and recount in groups of eight anchors.

Round 49 :

(18 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (160)

Round 50 :

1 sc in each st (160)

Round 51 :

Textured cluster round: *(sc, ch2, 3dc cluster over next 3 anchors, ch2) repeat* (160 anchors)

Info :

Cluster rounds create the pronounced ribbed texture visible in the leaf between the lobes. Keep cluster centers aligned with lobe veins; use stitch markers every lobe to ensure correct centering.

— Outlining Lobes and Beginning Points :

Round 52 :

(19 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (168)

Round 53 :

1 sc in each st (168)

Round 54 :

1 sc in each st BLO (168)

Info :

Round 54’s BLO gives definition to the very edge of the leaf so that the subsequent point shaping reads sharply when blocked.

Round 55 :

(20 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (176)

Round 56 :

1 sc in each st (176)

Round 57 :

Work into each lobe-split: *sc 6, (hdc, dc, tr) over center vein, hdc 6, sc into next* repeat x 8 (176)

Info :

This round deliberately focuses several taller stitches over each lobe center; these taller stitches form the upward thrust that becomes the point tip in later rounds. Keep the tall stitch groups centered per lobe.

— Point Elongation and Lacework :

Round 58 :

(21 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (184)

Round 59 :

1 sc in each st (184)

Round 60 :

Work pattern for fine openwork: *sc, ch4, skip 1, sc* across to keep 184 anchors

Info :

This round introduces longer chain loops that make the leaf appear more open and delicate. If your chains are too loose, the points will look floppy; tension and even spacing matter more at this stage than early rounds.

Round 61 :

(22 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (192)

Round 62 :

1 sc in each st (192)

Round 63 :

Surface slip-stitch veins: sl st next 3, *fpdc over next 2, sl st next 3* repeat across (192)

Info :

Surface slip and front-post stitches accentuate vein direction. Work slowly and align these surface stitches visually to maintain eight radial vein groups.

— Drawing the Points to a Tip :

Round 64 :

(23 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (200)

Round 65 :

1 sc in each st (200)

Round 66 :

Point shaping start: *(sc 8, (hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) over next 5 anchors, sc 8) repeat x 8 (200)

Info :

The tall cluster in the middle of each repeat pushes up to form the very tip of each lobed point. Check that these taller stitches are centered within each 25-anchor (approx) segment.

Round 67 :

(24 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (208)

Round 68 :

1 sc in each st (208)

Round 69 :

Decrease shaping to sharpen points: *(sc 10, (hdc, dc, tr), sc 6) repeat x 8 (208)

Info :

Here we begin to refine the profile of each point. Slight decreases in later rounds will give the jagged tips seen in the image; be precise — small errors are magnified at the edge.

— Final Point Detailing and Serration :

Round 70 :

(25 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (216)

Round 71 :

1 sc in each st (216)

Round 72 :

Serration round: *(sc 2, picot, sc 2, sk2, sl st into next) repeat across to create small teeth along edges (216 anchors)

Info :

Picots and small skipped stitches make the tiny serrated points visible along each major lobe edge. If you dislike picots, substitute small sc clusters instead.

Round 73 :

(26 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (224)

Round 74 :

1 sc in each st (224)

Round 75 :

Decorative shell edging begin: *(sc 3, (2 dc, ch1, 2 dc) shell in next anchor, sc 3) repeat x 8 (224)

Info :

Shell edging gives the finished leaf a refined silhouette and slightly thicker rim to keep points neat after blocking. Count shells to ensure eight shells align with the lobe centers.

— Built-Up Edge and Final Shaping :

Round 76 :

(27 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (232)

Round 77 :

1 sc in each st (232)

Round 78 :

BLO round for crisp outer ridge: 1 sc in each st BLO (232)

Info :

Working BLO on the final rounds produces a raised outer ridge that helps the leaf maintain structure and makes the points pop after blocking.

Round 79 :

(28 sc, 1 inc) x 8 (240)

Round 80 :

1 sc in each st (240)

Round 81 :

Final serrated detail: *sc, picot, skip 1, sc into next 3, picot* repeat across (240 anchors)

Info :

Round 81 produces the tiny spike details visible on the points; adapt the number of picots per lobe side to match the photographed serration count (about 3-6 small spikes per lobe side).

— Last Rounds and Blocking Preparation :

Round 82 :

1 sc in each st (240)

Round 83 :

Finish round: sl st into next st, fasten off and weave in ends neatly with tapestry needle

Info :

Leave a long tail when finishing to help secure the final rounds and for any final sewing you may want to do after blocking. Wet-block or steam-block the doily into shape, pinning each of the eight lobes sharply to form the leaf points shown in the photo.

Round 84-90 (Optional Stiffening and Edging Variations) :

If you want extra crispness add one or two rounds of firm single crochet or surface slip-stitch and finish with a blocking and starching step. For a contrasting edge: join a contrasting color and work (sc, picot, sc) around each scallop, then fasten off. (Stitch counts will remain at 240 as these are surface/edging rounds designed not to change anchors)

Info :

For a perfect finish, pin dry after blocking and apply a light starch if you want the doily to sit rigidly under a mug or vase. For a softer look, simply steam block and let dry naturally.

Assembly Instructions

  • No multi-piece assembly is required for this flat doily. After finishing round joins, weave in all yarn tails on the wrong side using a tapestry needle, burying them under several stitches to secure.
  • If you added any contrasting edging or surface stitches, pin the doily flat and check symmetry before final sewing or tidying ends; unpin and adjust if sections look uneven.
  • Wet-block the finished piece: soak in lukewarm water, gently squeeze out excess water, then pin to blocking board measuring the desired leaf diameter and pin each of the eight points evenly in place.
  • Once pinned and dry, remove from blocking mat and trim any stray fibers. Add a light spray starch if you want a stiffer, table-ready piece.
  • If you added a small backing (optional for coaster use), center the backing circle beneath the center and baste with whip stitch using a matching yarn tail. Trim any excess backing material.
  • Optional: secure picots or delicate tips with a dab of fabric glue on the underside if they feel too fragile, then retouch and pin until dry to ensure shape.
  • For storage or gifting, nest the doily flat between sheets to maintain its shape; avoid folding sharp points which can dull the edges over time.
  • If you plan to hang the leaf as a seasonal ornament instead of a doily, sew a small loop of matching yarn into the central back during finishing rounds and secure with several passes.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Keep tension consistent; for crisp lace work, use a hook slightly smaller than the yarn label recommendation
  • 💡Count repeats in groups of eight (one group per lobe) — many increases and decorative repeats are written as x8
  • 💡Block the doily to open the lacy motifs and form the pointed lobes; unblocked, it will look rounded and less defined
  • 💡When working picots and delicate serrations, keep tails longer to weave them securely into the wrong side
  • 💡If replacing picots with small shells, keep counts consistent to preserve the number of anchors
  • 💡Use cotton yarn for best definition and longevity; acrylic will not block as crisply and may be less suitable under a hot cup
  • 💡When adding surface ribs (fpdc/fpdc), work slowly and line up the ribs with existing vein markers for uniform radial texture

This lovely maple leaf doily brings the warm colors and textures of autumn to your home in a compact, handcrafted piece. Its radiating veins and pointed lobes make for a satisfying stitch-by-stitch progression, and the finished item is wonderful for gifting or decorating. I hope you enjoy blocking the veins open and watching the leaf transform — it’s a small joy every time you revisit it. 🧶🍁

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this doily?

Worked in sport/DK cotton with a 3.5mm hook as suggested, the finished leaf measures approximately 7-9 inches (18-23 cm) across from tip to tip. Using thicker yarn or a larger hook will increase the size proportionally.

Can I use a different yarn weight?

Yes. Thicker yarn will make a larger, thicker leaf; thinner yarn will make a smaller, more delicate leaf. Adjust hook size accordingly and expect changes in final diameter and detail definition.

Do I need to block the doily?

Blocking is highly recommended to open the lace, sharpen the points and reveal the vein textures. Wet-block or steam-block and pin each lobe to the desired shape until fully dry.

Can I replace picots with another edge stitch?

Absolutely. If you prefer no picots, substitute with small sc clusters or 3-sc shells; just keep anchor counts consistent to retain shape.

How do I keep the doily flat and not ruffle?

Ensure increases are distributed evenly across the eight repeats. If ruffling occurs, you likely have too many increases in one sector — check counts and block flat to even out minor irregularities.

Is this safe for use under a hot mug?

Cotton handles heat well, but consider adding a small cork backing or stiffening with starch for heat protection and to prevent slipping.

How many yards of yarn do I need?

Approximately 100-150 yards (90-140 meters) of sport/DK cotton should be sufficient depending on yarn thickness and any extra edging. Always buy a little extra for variations.

Can I make a smaller or larger version easily?

Yes — changing hook size or yarn weight is the simplest way. You can also reduce or increase a few repeat rounds, but maintain the pattern of increments by groups of eight to keep symmetry.