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Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern

Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🍂

Autumn Vibes

Earthy tones with cozy textures inspired by falling leaves and the rich, warm colors of harvest season.

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About This Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern

This project creates a charming string of crochet maple leaves in a palette of cream, rust, mustard, and deep brown, joined by a textured neutral chain. Each leaf is worked flat with a defined central vein and raised ridges to mimic the natural leaf structure. The leaves are lightweight and lie flat when blocked, making them ideal for a table runner, mantel swag, or doorway garland. The pattern breaks the work into clear sections: leaf construction, leaf stem, picot edging, and the connecting chain.

Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The instructions include color-change tips, blocking and stiffening guidance, and multiple Info sections to help you achieve even shape and crisp definition. Make as many leaves as you like and space them along the chain to suit your display.

Why You'll Love This Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern

I love this pattern because it captures the crisp, layered look of real maple leaves using simple crochet techniques and a little shaping. The raised veins and picot edges give each leaf a hand-crafted, heirloom feel that looks gorgeous on a wooden table. I also love how easy it is to change colors to match your home—switch to jewel tones for a richer look or pale pastels for a softer, modern take.

Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern step 1 - construction progress Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how versatile this garland is—I often switch up the color palette to match the season or my table setting. Try jewel tones for a richer autumn, or pale pastels for a modern neutral look.

I also like customizing the spacing and leaf sizes: alternate a large and small leaf for rhythm, or cluster leaves tightly for a denser runner. You can make a short wreath from the same elements by joining the chain ends and stitching leaves around the circle.

For texture variations, add tiny tassels, wooden beads, or mini acorn shapes between leaves. Adjust the chain structure—single crochet rope for sturdiness or open chain loops for delicate hanging—depending on how you plan to use the garland.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of each round can cause misalignment; mark the beginning stitch for consistent shaping and seam placement ✗ Using too large a hook with cotton yarn leaves holes and floppy leaves; work one size smaller than the yarn label for crisp stitches ✗ Not blocking leaves after finishing makes them curl; wet block or steam-block each leaf to flatten and open the lobes evenly ✗ Changing tension between veins and body distorts the leaf shape; maintain even tension and practice the veins on scrap before finishing ✗ Failing to weave in ends into the stem makes joins visible; carry color changes neatly and weave tails along the stem for tidy joins ✗ Sewing leaves to the chain without pinning first causes uneven spacing; pin and measure placement before stitching for symmetry

Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern

Create a cozy autumn table runner or hanging garland with delicate crochet maple leaves in warm fall hues. This pattern shows how to make crisp, textured leaves with a central stem and a decorative connecting chain. The finished garland is perfect for seasonal decor, table styling, or a mantel display—each leaf is worked flat with raised veins and a picot edge for a professional finish.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Autumn Maple Leaf Garland Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    DK/light worsted cotton or cotton blend (recommended for crisp stitch definition), approximate totals depending on garland length:
  • 02
    Cream / neutral: 50-70g (for connecting chain and 4-6 leaves)
  • 03
    Rust / burnt orange: 30-50g (for 3-5 leaves)
  • 04
    Mustard / ochre: 30-50g (for 3-5 leaves)
  • 05
    Deep brown / chocolate: 30-50g (for 3-5 leaves)
  • 06
    Small amounts (10-15g each) of accent colors if creating more leaves or variation

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main leaf work (use 3.0mm if you prefer crisper stitches)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) crochet hook for chain and delicate joins (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry / yarn needle for weaving and sewing leaves to the chain
  • 04
    Blocking board or foam mat and rust-proof pins
  • 05
    Spray starch or fabric stiffener (optional) for firm leaves
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Stitch markers (at least 6) to mark lobes and round starts
  • 08
    Optional: locking stitch markers to hold petals while blocking
  • 09
    Optional: thin floral wire to shape stems for hanging (wrap ends with yarn)

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Leaf (make as many as you like) :

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring. Work 7 sc into the ring. Pull tight. (7)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st around — 2 sc in each st. (14)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 7. (21)

Info :

We are creating a 7-lobed maple leaf, so we increase to produce a round base that we will build lobes from. Place a removable stitch marker in the last stitch of this round to note start.

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 7. (28)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 7. (35)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 7. (42)

Info :

After R6 you have 42 stitches evenly distributed. These form the base around which each lobe (petal) will be made. We'll now create the first lobe by working out from the center in a chain-and-return method, then repeat for each lobe.

Round 7 :

Ch 6 (counts as turning and first chain of lobe), turn and work along chain: 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch, sl st back to the base stitch at the first of the 6 chain's attached stitch to complete lobe. Sl st into next base stitch to begin next lobe. (base stitch count remains 42)

Round 8 :

Work second lobe: ch 6, 2 sc in 2nd ch, hdc, dc, tr, sl st to base, sl st next base st. Repeat the exact sequence for lobes; you will work a chain lobe into each of seven designated base stitches across the row. (perform for lobe 2)

Round 9 :

Complete lobes 3–7 repeating Round 7 instructions so each lobe is identical. Maintain tension so lobes are uniform. After finishing lobe 7 sl st to join into base. (all seven lobes made)

Info :

Make sure each lobe chain length and stitch heights are consistent — practice one lobe first and use it as a gauge. Keep your sl st joins neat; these become the valley points between lobes.

Round 10 :

Turn leaf to work around lobe edges: From the sl st join at a lobe tip, ch 1 and work 1 sc into the tip space, then 3 sc down the outer side of the lobe (working around the chains), 2 sc into the base join, 3 sc up the inner side of the lobe, sl st into the center base stitch between lobes. (repeat for lobe 1, counts will vary per lobe)

Round 11 :

Repeat Round 10 for each remaining lobe, working neat, closely-spaced sc along each curve to create a dense leaf surface. The center remains flat; the outer ridges are forming. After finishing all lobes you will have added a round of single crochet outlining each lobe.

Info :

If you prefer a more textured leaf, use BLO or FLO on this outlining round to create a raised ridge. Example: 1 sc in each st BLO along the outline to create visible ridges.

Round 12 :

Working from the center, we will establish 7 raised veins. Sl st to center top of lobe 1, ch 1, *work 7 hdc along the center line from base of lobe to tip using a combination of hdc and front post hdc to make a raised column; sl st to center* — repeat for each lobe (work a vertical vein for each lobe). Tip: use front post hdc for the central stitches of each vein to lift them.

Round 13 :

Return to each vein and work 1 dc on the outer-most stitch and 1 dc on the inner-most stitch on both sides of the vein to create subtle ridge shadows. This is done by inserting hook around post stitches (FLO or back post) and working dc in those posts to lift contrast lines.

Info :

The veins are the feature that make these leaves look realistic; hold the leaf flat and work each vein individually for even placement. Use a stitch marker to find the exact center base for consistent start points.

Round 14 :

Edge shaping: slip to the tip of lobe 1, ch 1, sc in tip, *ch 3, sl st in first ch of ch3 to make picot, sc down outer side of lobe spacing the sc so that each lobe has 5–7 sc points depending on size, ch3 picot at valley, continue around to next lobe.* Repeat for all lobes to create decorative picot edging. Fasten off and weave ends. (picot edge around leaf)

Info :

If you want a rounded leaf edge rather than picots, work 1 sc evenly spaced all around the outer edge instead of ch3 picots. Picots are decorative and give a slightly 'pointed' autumn look.

Round 15 :

Stem (petiole) base: Rejoin yarn at the center base valley between two lobes (bottom center). Ch 14 to form the stem length (or adjust for desired stem length). Sl st back along the chain towards the leaf to create a cabled stem: sl st into second ch from hook and each ch back to the leaf base, join with sl st. Fasten off and leave long tail for sewing to chain. (stem created)

Info :

For longer stems make more chains. For a twisted cord look, you can braid several chained stems or work a small i-cord crochet cord with a smaller hook for a cleaner finish.

Round 16 :

Optional reinforcement: Rejoin yarn at the base of the stem and sc along the underside of the stem for 1 round to thicken and secure the stem. Fasten off and weave in ends. (neat stem underside)

Round 17 :

Blocking: Wet-block the leaf. Pin the leaf to a blocking board to open the lobes and flatten the leaf. Shape the veins slightly upwards and pin them in place. Allow to dry completely. Optionally spray with diluted fabric stiffener for a firmer finish.

Info :

Blocking is essential to reveal the leaf details. Cotton responds well to steam or water blocking; hold the steam iron above the surface and use pins to open the lobes to exact shape.

— Leaf Variation: Raised Vein Method (alternate look) :

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring. Work 8 sc into the ring. (8)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x 8. (16)

Round 3 :

(2 sc, inc) x 8. (24)

Round 4 :

Ch 5, sl st into next st to form small lobes; repeat creating 8 lobes this time (makes a slightly different maple style). Work two rounds of sc around to bring counts to (24) even. This version is slightly narrower and good for small garlands.

Info :

Use this variant to create smaller leaves to mix scale on your garland—it will provide visual interest when alternating sizes on the chain.

Round 5 :

Work raised veins by making front post dc rows from the center out to each lobe tip. Use 5–6 sts per vein depending on leaf size. Finish with picot edge as earlier.

Round 6 :

Make 3–5 small picots around the lobes' tips to give a classic maple look. Fasten off neatly.

Info :

Alternate between the full-size leaf and this small variant to create a balanced garland. A typical garland alternates large and small leaves every 1–3 leaves.

— Decorative Picot & Edge Detail :

Round 1 :

With main leaf color rejoined at an outer edge point, ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, picot (sl st in 3rd ch) at every 3rd or 4th sc around to accent valleys and tips.* Continue evenly spacing picots so each lobe tip is accented with one picot. Count ensures consistent spacing: 5 picots per large leaf is typical.

Round 2 :

For a more pronounced scallop, work (hdc, dc, hdc) into each valley point and then a picot at the tip. This creates a layered border that lifts from the table surface.

Info :

A tighter picot (ch2) gives a daintier look. Use ch3 for more pronounced bobbles at the tips as pictured in the reference image.

— Connecting Chain (central neutral chain) :

Round 1 :

With neutral cream yarn, ch 150 (or desired garland length in chains), leaving a 20–30 cm tail at both ends to hang. (chain length variable)

Round 2 :

Working into the 2nd ch from hook, sc across the entire chain to create a compact base chain. This produces a single crochet rope. (approx 149 sc)

Round 3 :

Turn and work 1 sc in each st BLO for 3 rounds total to produce a ridged cord. After 3 rounds the cord has a woven rope look. Fasten off leaving long tail for joining. (maintain same stitch count)

Info :

Alternately you can create a decorative chain using (1 sc, ch 3, skip 1) to create small loops along which to attach leaf stems. The pictured chain shows a bobble rope effect—achieved by working multiple rounds in BLO and finishing with a picot-on-every-few-stitches loop.

Round 4 :

To make the popcorn/beaded look: Working along the top edge, *sc 3, ch 3, sl st into 1st ch of ch3 to create a small bobble loop* repeat across or every 4th stitch for a decorative beaded strand. Fasten off and weave ends. (pattern repeats)

Round 5 :

Optional twist: make two identical cords and sew them together side-by-side for a thicker central chain for heavier displays or long garlands.

Info :

Keep chain tension even; if you want more flexible hanging, make fewer sc rounds and rely on a simple ch chain. For a sturdy runner, make 3–4 sc rounds over the chain.

— Attaching Leaves to Chain :

Round 1 :

Lay the chain flat and plan leaf placement. Typical spacing in the photos is one leaf every 10–12 cm alternately on each side. Pin in place using blocking pins to confirm spacing.

Round 2 :

Use yarn tail from leaf stem to whip stitch the stem around the chain for 10–12 stitches, sew back and forth to make a secure join. Tie a small knot if necessary and weave tail toward the back of the chain before trimming.

Round 3 :

For leaves that are worked without long tails, make a small loop at the base of the leaf stem, insert chain through loop, and whip stitch the loop closed around the chain. This keeps the leaf freely movable on the chain if you desire.

Info :

Alternate side placement: attach one leaf on the left, the next on the right so the garland looks balanced when laid out, as shown in the reference photo. Keep leaves flat and pin as you sew for uniform orientation.

Round 4 :

To make the leaves lay flat and not rotate, stitch through the underside of the leaf (the underside of the stem is best) and secure with a few stitches through the chain core. Test by laying the garland flat and adjusting sewn points if necessary.

Round 5 :

Finish by securing all yarn tails by weaving them back into the chain and leaf underside for a neat finish. Block the whole garland gently once assembled to unify shape.

Info :

If you want removable leaves for washing, make a small crochet loop at the leaf stem and add a wooden or metal ring to slip the leaf on and off the chain.

— Finishing Touches & Variations :

Round 1 :

Make small tassels or acorn shapes between some leaves using leftover yarn for added texture. Small tassels: fold yarn, tie, and trim to length; sew to the chain at regular intervals.

Round 2 :

For a wreath style, make a shorter chain and join ends with slip stitch to form a loop. Sew leaves around the loop alternating directions for a full autumn wreath.

Round 3 :

Use a small amount of embroidery (brown yarn) to add tiny veins or speckles on the finished leaf surface after blocking for extra realism.

Round 4 :

Create a matching placemat set by working multiple shorter chains and placing leaves across as a placemat centerpiece.

Info :

Experiment with yarn types: mercerized cotton yields a crisp professional look, while a soft cotton blend will appear more organic and flexible—choose according to desired finish.

— Troubleshooting & Tips (frequent Info sections) :

Info :

If your leaf tips curl, wet block more aggressively and pin them outward while drying. Curling often indicates too-tight stitches at tip rounds—loosen tension slightly next time.

Info :

Consistency: Make one complete leaf as a sample and measure its dimensions. Use the first leaf as a template for all subsequent leaves so scale remains consistent across the garland.

Info :

Count your stitches after each increase round: missing an increase can skew where lobes attach and cause an off-centered shape. Use stitch markers every 7th stitch if needed.

Info :

When working raised veins, keep post stitches parallel and spaced equally from center—this avoids a lopsided ridge. If in doubt, mark vein placement with pins before stitching.

Info :

Edge detail: Always work edging with the leaf laid flat. If you work it while the leaf is cupped, the picots will be irregular and the leaf will not lie flat after blocking.

Info :

Profile: the pictured garland alternates warm rust, deep brown, mustard and cream leaves—plan your color order before beginning and cut yarn tails to length for neat sewing during assembly.

Assembly Instructions

  • Plan layout: Lay the central chain flat and arrange leaves alternating sides every 10–12 cm. Use pins to secure position and check balance before sewing.
  • Attach leaves: Use the long tail from each leaf stem to whip stitch around the chain for 10–12 stitches. Sew twice through the stem base for a secure join, then weave in the tail.
  • For looped attachment: form a small stem loop on leaf base, slip chain through loop, and sew the loop closed around chain for removable leaves.
  • Secure ends: After attaching the last leaf, weave the chain tails back into the chain body and knot discreetly to prevent unravelling.
  • Optional: For heavier displays, reinforce the join with a few stitches through the chain core and the underside of the leaf stem to prevent rotation.
  • Block the entire garland pinned flat after assembly to unify the leaf shapes and flatten seams. Allow to dry completely before display.
  • Trim any visible tails and hide ends by weaving them into the underside stitches. Use fabric glue for extra security on the ends if desired.
  • Add hanging loops at each chain end by forming a small loop (ch 10) and slipping onto the end tail, then secure with sc and weave in ends.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round or at lobe junctions to avoid counting errors and maintain symmetry
  • 💡Block leaves individually before assembly to get flat, crisp shapes that are easy to arrange along the chain
  • 💡Stuffing is not needed—these leaves are flat; if you want a padded look, use very thin batting between two leaves and sew together
  • 💡When sewing leaves to chain, always pin first to ensure consistent spacing and avoid mismatched orientation
  • 💡Work with a slightly smaller hook than the yarn recommends for tight, neat stitches that hide the stuffing and maintain crisp edges
  • 💡Keep a small snip of each yarn color nearby to make quick color changes, and weave in tails toward the center stem for a tidy underside
  • 💡If using safety pins or rings for removable attachment, ensure they are small and sit flat against the chain to avoid visible lumps
  • 💡For long garlands, periodically check tension of the chain and reinforce middle joins to prevent sagging

This autumn maple leaf garland brings the season to your home with handmade charm and classic colorways. The textured veins and picot tips give each leaf a delicate, realistic feel while the neutral rope ties everything together for a warm table statement. Whether used as a runner, mantel garland, or wreath accent, it’s a satisfying project with beautiful results. 🍁🧶 Display, gift, and enjoy the cozy atmosphere your handiwork creates!

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this garland?

With the recommended yarn and hook, each large leaf measures approximately 10–12 cm wide and 11–13 cm from tip to stem. The full garland length is determined by your chain (example sample used ~150 ch ≈ 1.5–1.8 m).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Thicker yarn (worsted) will produce larger, chunkier leaves; thinner yarn (sport) will make delicate smaller leaves. Adjust hook size down one or two sizes for a crisp amigurumi-like fabric.

Do I need to block the leaves?

Blocking is strongly recommended to open the lobes and flatten the leaf so the veins and picots are visible. Use wet blocking or steam and pins; apply light fabric stiffener if you want firmer leaves.

Can I make the leaves washable?

Yes—cotton yarn on a cotton-safe blocking and with removable leaves will wash gently. Avoid heavy stiffeners; hand wash on a gentle cycle and reshape while damp.

How many leaves do I need for a mantel garland?

For a typical mantel (150–180 cm), 10–12 leaves spaced every 10–15 cm make a full, balanced display. Adjust spacing and leaf size to taste.

What do I do if my leaf is lopsided?

Unpick back to the last symmetrical round and rework with even tension. Use stitch markers to divide the base evenly into 7 sections to guarantee symmetrical lobe placement.

Can I make the garland poseable?

You can insert a thin floral wire along the underside of the chain or inside stems, but it may show through lighter yarns. Wrap wire ends with yarn to prevent snagging.

How much yarn will I need?

Rough estimate: one 200–250 g ball of neutral cream for the chain and stems and 30–60 g per color for multiple leaves—final totals depend on garland length and number of leaves.