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Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern
4.0β˜… Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
1.4K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

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Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

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Cute Companion

An adorable friend to cherish, handcrafted with love to bring comfort and joy for years to come.

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About This Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

This pattern recreates a tall, whimsical witch hat worked in worsted-weight cotton-like yarn for structure in a vivid hot-pink. The hat has a sculpted cone with a dramatic spiral ridge wrapping from brim to tip, and a wide, wavy brim that holds its shape. A curled tip and three-dimensional floral vine decorations with tiny beads and a moon charm complete the playful look. The construction uses single crochet shaping, worked mostly in the round, plus small motifs for flowers and leaves.

Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design balances stable structure with soft drape: the cone is firm enough to stand while the brim has a decorative wave. The pattern includes options for internal wire reinforcement or a lightweight interfacing for the brim to keep the ruffle crisp.

Why You'll Love This Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

I love how dramatic and playful this hat is β€” the tall spiral cone and the wavy brim make it stand out on a shelf or as part of a costume. I also enjoy the creative finishing touches: the tiny crocheted flowers, little bead clusters, and the dangling moon charm add so much personality. Making the raised spiral ridge is therapeutic and gives the hat a handmade, storybook look that I find irresistible.

Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern step 1 - construction progress Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely loved designing this pattern because it offers so many opportunities for creative customization while maintaining a structure that's fun and manageable to crochet. The tall cone and ruffled brim invite you to play with proportion β€” make it taller or wider simply by adding or reducing increase rounds.

I like to change color schemes: try deep plum or emerald for a moody Halloween look, or pastel shades for a fairy-tale twist. Swap the floral vine for autumn leaves and tiny pumpkins for a seasonally themed version. You can also replace the cord spiral with a contrasting color to make the ridge pop.

If you want to adapt size, use thicker yarn and a larger hook for a wearable statement hat or reduce rounds for a mini hat suitable for dolls. I encourage you to experiment with bead clusters, charms, and embroidered veins on leaves to make the design truly yours.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

βœ— Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned spirals and uneven increases or decreases; always mark your first stitch of each round. βœ— Working with inconsistent tension can make the brim lopsided; aim for constant tension to keep the ruffle smooth and balanced. βœ— Stuffing the tip or cone too firmly early will distort shaping; work flat and only add light stuffing at the very tip for curl support. βœ— Not securing or hiding the tail properly when joining the brim can result in a visible seam; weave in ends and sew them under the rim for a clean finish. βœ— Attaching decorations without pinning first may cause uneven placement; arrange and pin floral vines before stitching them on. βœ— Using a hook that is too large for amigurumi fabric may let stuffing show; use a slightly smaller hook than yarn recommends for a tight fabric. βœ— Over-increasing when making the ruffle will create an uncontrolled flare; follow the increase math to keep the wave even. βœ— Forgetting to block the brim before attaching wire or interfacing can make shaping harder; lightly steam-block if using natural yarn for best results.

Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

A whimsical tall witch hat crocheted in a bold hot-pink with an undulating ruffled brim and a spiraled curled tip. The hat features a raised spiral ridge that winds around the cone and delicate floral vine decorations with beads and a moon charm. This pattern guides you step-by-step to recreate the structured cone, wide ruffle brim, decorative cord, curled tip and floral embellishments for a show-stopping Halloween accessory or amigurumi display piece.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Big Pinky Witch Hat Amigurumi Pattern

β€” Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) approximately 140-160g in hot-pink (main color)
  • 02
    50-60g in a lighter pink for small accents (flowers and highlights)
  • 03
    20-30g olive or leaf green for embroidered leaves and vine
  • 04
    Small amounts (10-15g) in deep pink or rose for flower centers and buds (detail colors)
  • 05
    Optional: thin nylon cord or fishing line for internal brim reinforcement (not yarn weight)

β€” Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (adjust if your tension differs)
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for tighter scalloped edge and small details
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing and weaving in ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 4) to mark round starts and reference points
  • 05
    Polyester fiberfill for very light stuffing at the curled tip (small amount)
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Pins for assembly and decoration placement
  • 08
    Optional: 20-24 gauge floral wire or craft wire for optional brim shaping and poseable tip
  • 09
    Optional: small beads and moon/star charm for decorations (as shown)
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue to secure beads or metal charms

Progress Tracker

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β€” Materials & Gauge :

Info :

Gauge is not critical for a decorative hat, but for similar dimensions try 22 sc x 24 rows = 10 cm in single crochet using 3.5mm hook. Use a slightly smaller hook for a tighter fabric if stuffing will be used near the tip.

β€” Cone (Main Body of Hat) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Info :

These increases form the top tip expanding into the cone. Work tightly and keep your first stitch marker to track round start. The cone is worked top-down: start at the tip and increase to your desired base circumference.

Round 9 :

(7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

(9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

Round 12 :

(10 sc, inc) x 6 (72)

Info :

At this stage you have a gently flaring cone. Continue increasing in the same rhythm to widen the cone base. If you prefer a taller cone with a narrower base, stop increases earlier and work even rounds for more height.

Round 13 :

(11 sc, inc) x 6 (78)

Round 14 :

(12 sc, inc) x 6 (84)

Round 15 :

(13 sc, inc) x 6 (90)

Round 16 :

(14 sc, inc) x 6 (96)

Info :

96 stitches around is a roomy base for a wide-brim hat; measure your head or object to fit and adjust: remove increases rounds slowly in reverse to reduce circumference if needed. From Round 17 onward we will build height while maintaining the circumference.

Round 17-26 :

1 sc in each st (96)

Info :

Work 10 even rounds to create the tall section of the cone. Keep tension even; if your cone flares too much, switch to a one-size-smaller hook for these rounds only to tighten the fabric. Add a stitch marker at the start of each set of 5 rounds to track progress.

Round 27 :

(14 sc, dec) x 6 (90)

Round 28 :

(13 sc, dec) x 6 (84)

Round 29 :

(12 sc, dec) x 6 (78)

Info :

We are subtly tapering the cone toward the brim seam so the brim sits neatly. These decreases are gentle to keep a pleasing slope; if your cone is still too straight, repeat another decrease round following the same pattern.

Round 30-36 :

1 sc in each st (78)

Round 37 :

(11 sc, dec) x 6 (72)

Round 38-44 :

1 sc in each st (72)

Info :

These even rounds build the cone's mid-body height. The hat in the photo shows subtle spiral shaping and a pronounced tip curl; save a short tail of yarn at Round 44 to attach the curled tip later. If you want the spiral to start lower or higher, mark the round where you'll begin sewing the spiral cord.

Round 45 :

(10 sc, dec) x 6 (66)

Round 46-52 :

1 sc in each st (66)

Info :

We will join the brim to the base of the cone, so maintain neat edges. Fasten off here leaving a long tail for joining the brim later if you prefer to make the brim separately and sew it on. Otherwise continue directly to brim rounds to work it in the round.

β€” Brim (Worked from Cone Base) :

Info :

Decide whether to work the brim directly joined to the cone or as a separate round piece sewn on. This pattern continues joined to the cone for a seamless transition. Use the 3.5mm hook for the main brim and switch to 3.0mm for a crisp edge if desired.

Round 1 (Brim) :

Join yarn to any stitch at base and work 1 sc in each st around (66) [Join to Cone base if you stopped earlier; if you left 96 earlier, adjust counts accordingly to match Cone final round. Our counts are using 66 here]

Round 2 :

(3 sc, inc) x 11 (88)

Round 3 :

(4 sc, inc) x 11 (99)

Info :

If your cone had 72 or 96 stitches at the base instead of 66, change the repeat number to divide evenly (for example 96/24 repeats). If your base is 66 use the patterns provided here; math must divide evenly by the repeat count to keep even spacing.

Round 4 :

(5 sc, inc) x 11 (110)

Round 5 :

(6 sc, inc) x 11 (121)

Round 6 :

(7 sc, inc) x 11 (132)

Info :

These gradual increases create a gentle flared brim. The sample hat shows a pronounced wavy finished edge; continue increasing until you reach a circumference large enough to form a ruffle when blocked. The counts above produce a generous brim.

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (132)

Round 11 :

(7 sc, inc) x 12 (144)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st (144)

Info :

Now we will add the ruffle/wave at the brim edge. The approach is to add one final increase round with a smaller repeat to create fluted edges and then finish with a decorative scallop worked in BLO for a crisp rim.

Round 13 :

(4 sc, inc) x 24 (168)

Round 14 :

(3 sc, inc) x 42 (210)

Info :

This growth will create waves. If your brim is too large, reduce increases or skip one of these increase rounds. If too small, add an extra increase round of (5 sc, inc) repeats to add more flare.

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st (210)

Round 16 (Scalloped Edge) :

1 sc in each st BLO around (210)

Round 17 :

(3 sc, sl st in next st) x 42 to create a soft scallop ridge (210)

Info :

The scallop technique above forms a subtle rolled edge similar to the photos. For an exaggerated wavy brim, replace Round 17 with: (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in next st; skip 2 sts, repeat around to create deep scallops. Use a 3.0mm hook for the final edge if you want a crisp finish.

Round 18 :

Fasten off and weave in tail if working brim separately. If continuing, continue to finishing steps.

Info :

Light blocking helps the ruffle sit evenly. Pin the brim into gentle waves and steam lightly or wet-block if using natural fiber; avoid heavy blocking for acrylic yarn to prevent melting with steam.

β€” Spiraled Raised Ridge (Make 1 long cord) :

Info :

The raised spiral seen in the photos is a thick cord sewn in a spiral from brim up toward the tip. We will crochet a tube-like cord, then wind and sew it to the cone. The cord is made as a flat crocheted rope then worked around to thicken it.

Round 1 (Cord Base) :

Ch 120 (or chain until reaching the length required to spiral around the cone about 4-5 times). Ensure the cord is slightly longer than your distance from brim to tip so you can shape the curl.

Round 2 :

Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (119) - do not join, leave a long tail for sewing

Round 3 :

Working along the opposite side of the chain foundation, sc across the underside (119) and join to first sc to form a flat loop (119*2 = 238 sc stitched but counts represent stitches along both sides). This creates a long flat tube-like band.

Round 4 :

With RS facing, sl st into the nearest top loop, then sc around the entire chain tube through both thicknesses every 2-3 loops to start rounding the cord until you achieve a smooth rope appearance. Work approximately 1-2 rounds of sc around the tube to thicken.

Info :

For a narrower cord, work only one round of sc around; for a chunky ridge, do 2-3 rounds. Keep the cord supple β€” too much stiffness makes it hard to sew smoothly into a spiral. Fasten off and leave long tails for sewing onto the cone.

Round 5 :

Optional: If you prefer, make this cord as an i-cord using a smaller hook and 6-10 sc rounds into a short chained tube for a rounder cord. Both methods work; the flat cord provides a fluted ridge similar to the sample hat.

Info :

Pin the cord around the cone in the spiral shape you like, spacing the ridge evenly. Start at the brim, secure with pins, and sew the cord down using mattress or whip stitch through the cone's rounds and around the cord to secure it firmly. Make small, even stitches for a neat look.

β€” Tip Curl & Tail (Curled Finished Tip) :

Round 1 :

Make a small tube to curl into the tip: mr, 6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3-5 :

1 sc in each st (12)

Round 6 :

(3 sc, inc) x 3 (15)

Round 7-10 :

1 sc in each st (15)

Info :

Stuff very lightly with a small amount of fiberfill to give the curl body without making it stiff. Insert a short length of floral wire if you want the tip poseable β€” fold wire back on itself and wrap the ends in tape to avoid sharp points. Leave a long tail of yarn to sew the tip tube to the cone top.

Round 11 :

Decrease to shape curve: (2 sc, dec) x 5 (10)

Round 12 :

(1 sc, dec) x 3 then sc remaining (7)

Round 13 :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Sew the tube into the very top of the cone, then bend and curl the tip into a spiral. Wrap the cord around it or add additional small crocheted balls to the very end to mimic the photo’s tiny curls.

Info :

To create the charming loop at the very tip as in the photo, make 3 tiny picot loops or small chained loops and sew them into place so the tip looks like several little curls stacked together.

β€” Small Decorative Picot Loops (Make 3) :

Round 1 :

Ch 8, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next, hdc in next, dc in next, picot (ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook) in next, sl st to finish

Info :

Make 2-3 of these and attach clustered at the tip to mimic the curled end detail from the photos. Use a small needle and thread or yarn tail to sew them in place securely.

β€” Flower Motif (Make 3 - Large Center Flower and 2 Small Flowers) :

Round 1 :

mr, ch 1, 6 sc into ring, pull tight (6)

Round 2 :

(Ch 5, slip into next st) x 6 to create 6 loops (6 loops)

Round 3 :

Work petal into each loop: (sl st, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 2, sl st) into each loop x 6 (6 petals)

Round 4 :

In the center, sew a French knot-style bead or sew a contrasting yarn wrapped bead for center embellishment. Fasten off leaving tail for sewing.

Info :

For the smaller flowers, reduce chain loops to ch 4 loops and use (sl st, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1, sl st) for petite petals. Make three flowers total: one large and two small to match the decorative cluster pictured.

β€” Leaf (Make 6) :

Round 1 :

Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in last (6 stitches across)

Round 2 :

Turn, sc across the opposite side of the foundation chain in mirrored order (6) then sl st to join and fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Round 3 :

Optional embroidery: Using contrasting thread, embroider a central vein with chain stitch or back stitch for more realism

Info :

Use olive green yarn and small embroidery beads at the base of leaves. Sew leaves on in small clusters around flowers to form the vine. Slightly stiffen leaves with a drop of fabric glue if they flop.

β€” Small Buds & Beaded Drops :

Round 1 :

Make tiny buds by ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch, sl st across to produce a miniature bud. Make 6-10 buds.

Round 2 :

Sew small glass or plastic beads onto the vine cluster by stringing beads onto short lengths of thread and sewing them in place, or use beads with headpins folded into loops to attach.

Info :

Secure beads well with knots and a dab of fabric glue at the back of each bead for durability, especially if the piece will be handled frequently.

β€” Assembling the Floral Vine :

Round 1 :

Arrange the large flower centered on the cone about 3-5 rounds above the brim seam depending on taste. Surround with leaves and small flowers, roll the cord slightly to tuck under petals for depth.

Round 2 :

Sew each element with small whip stitches, passing through flower basis and cone fabric. Anchor each bud and bead with two passes for security. Add a dangling moon charm by sewing its loop to the base of the large flower.

Info :

Pin everything in place before sewing to ensure a balanced composition. The sample shows the vine wrapped slightly around the cone and following the ridge spiral for cohesion β€” mimic that placement if desired.

β€” Optional Inner Brim Reinforcement :

Round 1 :

Cut a circle of thin plastic canvas or craft felt matching the brim diameter. For added firmness, stitch it into the underside of the brim using whip stitch and the long tail used earlier to join.

Round 2 :

If using wire, measure a length of thin gauge wire to follow the brim curve and insert it into a channel by crocheting a narrow tube along the inner brim or sew it under the brim with fishing line, ensuring all ends are taped and hidden.

Info :

Reinforcement helps the brim keep its large wavy shape like the photo. If you want a softer, floppy brim, skip reinforcement and rely on heavier yarn to give body.

β€” Finishing Touches & Blocking :

Round 1 :

Weave in all loose tails by threading them through several rounds on the wrong side and trimming close. Use matching yarn to disguise any visible joins.

Round 2 :

Pin the brim into gentle waves on a blocking mat and spray lightly with water if using natural fiber for permanent shaping. Allow to dry fully before removing pins.

Round 3 :

Sew the spiral cord into place: starting from the brim, stitch along the cord into the cone body with small, even stitches, following the spiral upward and finishing at the tip where you attach the curled tube piece previously made.

Info :

Final placement of charms and beads should be balanced β€” place the moon charm slightly off-center as in the photo for a whimsical feel. If the charm moves, secure it with additional stitches or a tiny dot of fabric glue behind it.

β€” Alternative Size Notes :

Info :

To make a mini version suitable for doll display, reduce starting chain in the cord, stop increases earlier in the cone (e.g., stop at 48 sts instead of 66), and scale down flower components. To make an adult-wearable hat, increase base stitch counts and use sturdier yarn and internal reinforcement to support the larger brim.

Round SUMMARY :

This pattern contains many sections: Cone rounds 1-52 (approx), Brim rounds 1-18 (approx), Cord rounds 1-5, Tip rounds 1-13, Flowers/Leaves rounds various β€” adding up to 150+ discrete steps and instructional Info sections. Follow each section in order, pin elements for positioning, and check sizing by measuring your head or desired display object periodically.

Info :

If you find yourself short on yarn while working the brim ruffle, reduce one increase round or substitute with lighter decorative edging. Keep an inventory of yarn before starting and buy a small extra skein for safety.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach the curled tip to the top of the cone using the long tail left from the tip tube. Pin the tip into the position you want then sew through the cone top and tip tube evenly to secure; hide knots inside the cone.
  • Sew the spiral cord to the cone: start at the brim seam, pin the cord in a spiral up to the tip, then use small whip stitches through the cord and the hat body to secure it. Stitch every 0.5-1 cm to ensure the cord does not shift.
  • If the brim was made separately, align the inner edge of the brim with the base of the cone. Pin evenly around (use 8-12 pins) then sew through both layers with a whip stitch, spacing stitches closely for a neat seam.
  • Arrange flowers, leaves and beads around the base of the cone where the cord begins. Pin each motif in place, then sew them on with small, tight stitches, securing bead strings by knotting and adding a dab of fabric glue if needed.
  • If using wire reinforcement for the brim, insert the wire ends into small sewn channels or wrap and stitch the ends down within the hat interior so there are no exposed sharp edges.
  • Weave in all tails by threading into the wrong side of the hat and then trimming. Double-check all attachments for stability and add extra stitches to any pieces that feel loose before displaying or gifting.

Important Notes

  • πŸ’‘Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • πŸ’‘Stuff the tip of the hat very lightly; overstuffing will prevent the elegant curl and can distort the cone.
  • πŸ’‘For safety with beads and charms, always secure them with at least two stitches and a dab of fabric glue for items handled by children.
  • πŸ’‘Work tightly in single crochet for the cone to avoid showing gaps; the brim can be worked slightly looser to allow for nicer drape.
  • πŸ’‘Pin all decorative elements in place and photograph the pinned arrangement before sewing to help with symmetrical placement on the second side.
  • πŸ’‘If adding wire to the brim, fold and tape the wire ends and sew them inside a small sewn channel to prevent poking and to keep the wiring discreet.
  • πŸ’‘Keep a small extra skein of main yarn on hand for consistent color and to avoid dye lot differences when buying more.
  • πŸ’‘Label your rounds on a notepad or row counter, especially in long even rounds, to avoid accidentally losing your place.

This big pink witch hat is such a joyous project to make β€” bold, playful and full of personality! The tall spiraled cone and sweeping ruffled brim come together with textured stitches and charming floral decorations to create a piece that looks handmade and magical. Whether you use it as a display item or a costume accessory, every stitch contributes to a whimsical final result. Enjoy the crafting journey and celebrate the finished hat β€” it’s a bright statement piece you’ll be proud to show off! 🧢✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this amigurumi?

Based on the specified materials and hook size this hat measures approximately 28-32 cm tall from brim to tip and the brim diameter is about 28-32 cm. Adjust increases and rounds to change size proportionally.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! You can use other yarn weights, but use a hook 1-2 sizes smaller than recommended for a tighter amigurumi fabric. Heavier yarn will produce larger overall dimensions and may need internal reinforcement for the brim.

Do I need to use safety eyes or can I embroider them?

This hat does not require safety eyes; any facial features are decorative. If adding small charms, secure them with thread or glue. Embroidery is ideal for any tiny decorative accents for safety around children.

How much stuffing will I need?

Only a small amount of polyester fiberfill is required for the very tip curl β€” approximately 5-15 grams total depending on how full you like the shape. The cone and brim are mostly unstuffed.

Can I make the arms and legs poseable?

This pattern is a hat accessory so no limbs are included. However the tip can be made poseable by inserting floral wire or thin craft wire before finishing the tip and sealing the ends safely.

What if my stitch count is off?

If counts differ, identify the round where it changed and unravel to that point. Using stitch markers at the round start helps maintain counts. Adjust repeat numbers to divide evenly into your stitch counts for smoother shaping.

How do I prevent holes when attaching decorations?

Work with tight tension or use small matching yarn to sew decorations so the sewing holes are minimized. Weave threads back into the fabric and use a dab of fabric glue if necessary for extra security.

Can I customize colors and details?

Absolutely! Swap the hot-pink for any hue, change flower colors, or replace the moon charm with other trinkets to match seasonal themes or personal style while following the basic construction.