— Spiral Cord (make as long as desired; sample length uses 40 spiral segments) :
Info :
Spiral segments are worked as short crocheted coils strung on a central core (wire or cord). If you want a stable hanging garland, use a craft wire or plastic coated beading cord as the base and crochet around it. Alternately, make a long crocheted cord that naturally spirals by increasing stitches into each chain stitch.
Round 1 (segment 1) :
ch 12, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 9 ch, 4 sc in last ch, continue working down the opposite side with 3 sc in next 9 ch to create a firm tube. Slip stitch to join if making a ring core or leave as a tube. (approx 30 sc)
Round 2 (segment 2) :
ch 12, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 4 sc in next 8 ch, 4 sc in last ch, sc down other side (approx 32 sc)
Round 3 (segment 3) :
ch 12, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across (approx 34 sc)
Round 4 (segment 4) :
Repeat segment 1 pattern: ch 12, 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across, back down opposite side (approx 30 sc)
Info :
Each segment tightness controls the curl — increasing the number of stitches you work across the chain will tighten the spiral. Continue repeating these segment builds, alternating slightly larger or smaller stitch counts to make the spiral irregular and organic. If using a core, slide the core through each tube segment as you make it or sew the tube around the core after crocheting.
Round 5 (segment 5) :
Same as segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Round 6 (segment 6) :
Same as segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 7 (segment 7) :
Same as segment 1 (approx 30 sc)
Info :
Make 30-40 of these short tube segments to form one long spiral cord if you want the full-length garland pictured. Alternatively repeat until the garland measures your desired length. Alternate segments with small beads or knotted gaps to help space eyeballs and mummies.
Round 8 (segment 8) :
Repeat segment 4 (approx 30 sc)
Round 9 (segment 9) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Round 10 (segment 10) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 11 (segment 11) :
Repeat segment 1 (approx 30 sc)
Round 12 (segment 12) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Info :
If you prefer a single continuous crocheted spiraled chain without a textile core, create a long foundation ch (200-300 ch depending on desired length) then work 3-6 sc in each chain stitch across to force curling. Working multiple sc into each ch causes the rope to coil tightly; experiment with 3 sc per ch for loose curl, 6 sc per ch for very tight spiral.
Round 13 (segment 13) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 14 (segment 14) :
Repeat segment 1 (approx 30 sc)
Round 15 (segment 15) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Round 16 (segment 16) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Info :
Space your decorative items (eyeballs, mummies) between segments. Use a segment as the anchor point: either sew the element into the tube segment or pierce with wire core then wrap the spiral around it and secure with a few sewn stitches.
Round 17 (segment 17) :
Repeat segment 1 (approx 30 sc)
Round 18 (segment 18) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Round 19 (segment 19) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 20 (segment 20) :
Repeat segment 4 (approx 30 sc)
Info :
Make additional segments until garland reaches desired length—sample garland used approximately 36 segments including spaces for 4 eyeballs and 3 mummies. Leave a long tail at each end for hanging loops or secure wire hooks.
Round 21 (segment 21) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Round 22 (segment 22) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 23 (segment 23) :
Repeat segment 1 (approx 30 sc)
Round 24 (segment 24) :
Repeat segment 4 (approx 30 sc)
Info :
Trim and weave in ends of each tube segment as you go to keep the build tidy. If using a wire core, leave ends exposed slightly to thread through pieces and create secure anchor points where you will attach eyeballs and mummies.
Round 25 (segment 25) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Round 26 (segment 26) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 27 (segment 27) :
Repeat segment 1 (approx 30 sc)
Round 28 (segment 28) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Info :
If you want additional texture on the spiral's surface, add small picot clusters randomly along a few segments by working (sc, ch 3, sl st to same st) every 6th stitch—this gives a knotted, organic feel as in the photo.
Round 29 (segment 29) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 30 (segment 30) :
Repeat segment 4 (approx 30 sc)
Round 31 (segment 31) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Round 32 (segment 32) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 33 (segment 33) :
Repeat segment 1 (approx 30 sc)
Round 34 (segment 34) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Info :
If you are using separate spiral segments strung on a core, join each segment with a few whip stitches through the core to keep them from sliding. Keep spacing uniform or varied according to the picture reference.
Round 35 (segment 35) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 36 (segment 36) :
Repeat segment 1 (approx 30 sc)
Round 37 (segment 37) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc)
Round 38 (segment 38) :
Repeat segment 3 (approx 34 sc)
Round 39 (segment 39) :
Repeat segment 4 (approx 30 sc)
Round 40 (segment 40) :
Repeat segment 2 (approx 32 sc), FO and weave in ends
Info :
Create hanging loops at both ends: ch 20, sl st back to base, FO leaving long tails to knot around a hook or to create a wrapped loop for mounting. Test hang weight—add a few extra stitches to strengthen end loops if necessary.
— Assembly & Decoration :
Info :
Use the long tails left on eyeballs, mummies, and spiral core to attach each element. Thread the eyeball's sewing tail or core wire through the center of a spiral segment, and secure tightly with yarn. Sew the mummy's bottom opening to a spiral segment or slide the spiral core into a small slit in the base and whip stitch closed around the core.
Info :
Embroider the mummy eye patch on the head before attaching head to body: using black yarn, surface crochet a horizontal oval across 6-8 stitches, then add 2 small white French knots or tiny white beads for the eyes. Secure all beads and knots on the inside with extra stitches and a dab of fabric glue if desired.
Info :
For extra stability, after sewing each piece to the spiral, apply a tiny dab of fabric glue to the inner seam and allow to dry. This is especially useful for pieces that will hang and move frequently.
Assembly Instructions
- Attach head to body by sewing the head opening to the top round of the body using a whip stitch. Pin in place first to ensure even alignment; attach at the point where body round 10 meets head round 1 for consistent placement.
- Position arms on sides of body roughly at body rounds 9-11 for natural arm height. Sew through both arm and body using ladder stitch for an invisible seam; add an extra stitch or two around arm cavities for added strength.
- Attach legs/feet to bottom of body at the final body rounds (rounds 19-21) spacing them evenly to create the twin-foot look. Use a sturdy sewing tail and shape feet before finishing sewing to maintain roundness.
- Sew pupil circles onto eyeballs before final stuffing; position pupils centered and sew around the edge with a few tight stitches. Embroider veins around pupils and secure thread tails inside the ball.
- Slide spiral segments onto a wire or cord core as you build, or securely sew each tube segment together end-to-end. When adding eyeballs and mummies, stitch through the spiral tube and core multiple times to prevent sliding.
- Use pins to arrange the final layout on the spiral before permanently sewing. When satisfied with spacing, reinforce each attachment with 6-8 passes of thread and tie off securely, weaving ends deep into project.
Important Notes
- 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
- 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs
- 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place
- 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric
- 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams
- 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry
- 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches; if necessary go down a hook size
- 💡If using a wire core, fold or loop wire ends and tape them before covering with yarn to avoid poking fabric
This Blood Red Spiral Halloween Garland turned out delightfully eerie and whimsical! The tiny wrapped mummies and bloodshot eyeballs pop against the vivid red spiral, adding movement and personality to any space. Every stitch contributes to a creepy-cute finish you'll be proud to hang for the season. 🧵🎃✨ Happy crocheting — enjoy making it your own and showing off your spooky creation!
