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Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern

Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern
4.7★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
1.7K Made This
✂️

Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

🍂

Autumn Vibes

Earthy tones with cozy textures inspired by falling leaves and the rich, warm colors of harvest season.

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About This Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern

This Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner is a charming seasonal accent that layers 3D pumpkins over textured square motifs and finishes with a scalloped lace edge. The runner pictured is worked in worsted weight yarns: burnt orange for the pumpkins, cream for background lace, gold and rust for accents, and olive for leaves. Each square is crocheted, embellished with a stuffed pumpkin and sewn into a long runner. Great for a dining table, entry console, or mantel.

Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern is modular—each square is identical which makes assembly repetitive and satisfying. You can make fewer squares for a shorter runner or add more for a longer table. The lace border ties the colors together for a polished look.

Why You'll Love This Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it blends classic granny-style motifs with dimensional pumpkins for a unique seasonal centerpiece. The texture of the leaves and the ribbed pumpkins create visual depth that looks stunning on a wooden table. I also love how the color transitions and scalloped edge feel both vintage and modern—perfect for cozy fall decor.

Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how this runner can be transformed simply by switching yarn colors; try deep burgundy and cream for a richer autumnal palette, or soft pastels for spring-themed table decor. Swapping to a bulky yarn will make a thicker, more sculptural runner, while a lighter fingering weight can create a more delicate lace effect.

For a rustic look, use natural cotton and attach small real twig stems; for a cozier farmhouse style, choose mellow acrylics and embroidered veins on leaves. If you prefer fewer three-dimensional elements, substitute appliqued flat pumpkins instead of stuffed pumpkins to make a flatter runner suitable for heavy use.

I recommend experimenting with small accent motifs—add a crocheted banner in the center square for a celebratory table, or stitch tiny beads into the scallops for a subtle sparkle. The construction is forgiving, so adjust number of repeats and rounds to exactly fit your table and tastes.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at the start of rounds can cause a drift that shows up in the lace border and motif joins; mark the first stitch of every round. ✗ Changing colors without fastening off neatly can cause bulky joins; use a tidy invisible join or weave ends in as you go. ✗ Overstuffing pumpkin forms makes them hard to sew flat against the square; stuff lightly and sculpt the ribs with your fingers. ✗ Not blocking square motifs before joining can cause uneven edges and mismatched seams; wet-block or steam-block motifs first. ✗ Using too large a hook for worsted yarn will create loose stitches and show stuffing; work tighter than usual for amigurumi pumpkins and edges. ✗ Failing to pin and baste sections before final sewing can lead to off-center pumpkins; pin each pumpkin and border prior to stitching in place.

Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern

A cozy, autumn-inspired table runner featuring four ornate crochet squares, each topped with a dimensional pumpkin and leafy accents. Rich burnt orange, cream, gold and olive tones combine with lacy borders for a vintage harvest feel. The design is modular—make the full runner or shorten it to fit your table. Detailed stitch counts, assembly notes, and finishing tips make this pattern approachable for experienced crocheters.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) - approximately 400-500g Burnt Orange (main pumpkin color)
  • 02
    150-200g Cream / Natural (background and outer lace)
  • 03
    80-100g Golden Yellow (accent rounds and small pumpkins)
  • 04
    80-100g Rust / Terracotta (border and accent rounds)
  • 05
    80-100g Olive Green (leaves and foliage)
  • 06
    Small amounts (10-20g) of Brown or Taupe for stems and tiny acorn details

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for the square and border (or hook recommended for your yarn)
  • 02
    3.25mm (D) crochet hook for pumpkins and leaves for tighter fabric
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Polyester fiberfill (small amount per pumpkin, total approx. 50-80g)
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6)
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Pins for blocking and assembly
  • 08
    Optional: tapestry needle with blunt tip for delicate sewing
  • 09
    Optional: blocking mats and pins
  • 10
    Optional: small button or twig stems if not crocheting stems

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— Overview :

Info :

This pattern is written in rounds and joined rows where appropriate. All pumpkins are made in continuous rounds (do not join unless instructed). Squares and border rounds are worked in joined rounds for clean corners. Gauge will vary by yarn; work tightly for pumpkins so stuffing doesn't show, and a standard gauge for the lace sections for drape.

— Materials & Prep :

Info :

Make 4 identical square motifs (approx 6.5"/16.5cm each after blocking) and assemble in a column. Each square will be topped with one large pumpkin (or cluster of small pumpkins for variety). Block squares before joining to square up edges.

— Square Motif (Make 4) :

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 11 dc into ring, pull tight, join to top of ch 3 with sl st (12 dc) (12)

Round 2 :

Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st to top of ch 3 (24)

Round 3 :

Ch 3, dc in same st, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* rep around, join (36)

Round 4 :

Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 3, skip 2 dc, sc in next dc, ch 3, *sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 2 dc* rep around, join (12 ch-3 spaces)

Info :

These ch-3 spaces will become corner points when we start square shaping. Keep tension even so corners lay flat.

Round 5 :

Join Rust yarn in any ch-3 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp (first corner made), *3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp* rep around, join (4 corners)

Round 6 :

Ch 3, dc in each dc around until corner, in ch-2 corner work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc), continue, join (count will vary, approx 48-56 depending on increases)

Round 7 :

Change to Olive in last pull through. Ch 1, sc evenly around on top of dc stitches and across corners (work 1 sc in each dc and 3 sc in each corner ch-2), join (st count matching previous round)

Round 8 :

Change to Golden Yellow. Ch 3, *dc in next 3 sts, ch 1* rep around placing dc groups across sides and 3 dc in corner ch-3 spaces, join (creates textured frame)

Round 9 :

Change to Olive. Ch 1, sc around in each st and 3 sc in each corner, join and fasten off cream for contrast border next rounds (even edge prep)

Info :

At this stage each square has a framed center ready for the pumpkin base. Block now for best centering and to flatten corners.

Round 10 :

Join Cream yarn. Ch 1, sc evenly across edge, working 3 sc in corners, join (square edge stabilized)

Round 11 :

Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, *ch 1, skip 1, dc in next 3* rep across each side, work 3 dc in corner ch-1, join (creates mesh edge for later pumpkin attachment)

Round 12 :

Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-1 space around, 3 sc in each corner, join (neat base row for attaching pumpkin)

Round 13 :

Change to Rust. Ch 1, sc around in BLO for a subtle ridge, join (gives definition to inner square frame)

Round 14 :

Change to Burnt Orange. Ch 3, 1 dc in next 2 sts, *(1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) in next sc to create a small loop, continue across* join (creates small decorative loops behind pumpkin)

Round 15 :

Change to Cream. Ch 1, sc around covering loops and side stitches evenly, 3 sc in corners, join and fasten off. Leave long tail for sewing pumpkin base if preferred.

Info :

Repeat motifs making four identical squares. If you want a shorter runner, make 2 or 3 squares; for a longer runner, make additional squares and adjust border length accordingly.

— Pumpkin - Large (Make 4) :

Info :

These pumpkins are worked in continuous rounds using the smaller hook (3.25mm) for a tight fabric. Work with Burnt Orange for the large pumpkins. We will create a spherical pumpkin with vertical ribs using post stitches later.

Round 1 :

Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, pull tight (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st around (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

Now we have a small flat disc - this will be the bottom dome of the pumpkin. Continue increases to reach approx 36-40 sts for larger pumpkin base.

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around (42)

Round 9 :

1 sc in each st around (42)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st around (42)

Info :

Rounds 8-10 build height for the pumpkin body. Work evenly and check size against your square center; adjust number of rounds for your desired pumpkin height.

Round 11 :

(5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

Round 12 :

(4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Info :

Begin stuffing lightly through the opening. Stuff until firm but still slightly compressible so the ribs will shape well.

Round 14 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

Round 15 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 16 :

Dec x 6 (6)

Info :

Do not close completely. Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing the pumpkin top closed to the square. Finish stuffing as needed to form a domed shape.

Round 17 :

Using long tail, sew opening closed with ladder stitch and weave tail through center to create a small gather. Secure and fasten off.

Round 18 :

Using a second piece of yarn (same color), create 8 evenly spaced vertical ribs by inserting a yarn needle at top center, pulling yarn through to bottom center and back up, repeating around pumpkin. Pull slightly to create defined ridges then tie off and hide ends (no numeric stitch count required; 8 ribs evenly spaced).

Info :

For raised ribs, you can also work fpdc and bpdc columns. Insert hook at top and work fpdc down the side, but the sewn rib method is quickest and produces crisp sections.

— Pumpkin - Medium (Optional, Make 2) :

Round 1 :

Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc (6)

Round 2 :

Inc x 6 (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

1 sc around (24)

Round 6 :

1 sc around (24)

Round 7 :

(2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Round 8 :

(1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)

Round 9 :

Dec x 6 (6)

Round 10 :

Sew closed leaving a small gather. Add 6 ribs sewn from top to bottom evenly spaced. Fasten off.

Info :

Medium pumpkins are used in small clusters on some squares for added interest. Adjust rounds for a slightly taller or flatter pumpkin as desired.

— Pumpkin - Small (Make 4-6 for clusters) :

Round 1 :

Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc (6)

Round 2 :

Inc x6 (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc around (12)

Round 4 :

(1 sc, dec) x4 (8)

Round 5 :

Dec x4 (4)

Round 6 :

Sew to close and add 4 sewn ribs or stitch small surface lines to mimic ribs. Fasten off and hide tails.

Info :

Small pumpkins sit beside larger pumpkins and create a natural cluster. Stuff very lightly or leave unstuffed for a flatter look.

— Pumpkin Stems & Leaves :

Stem Round 1 :

With Brown, ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook and next 5 chs (5), fasten off leaving long tail to sew; roll or spiral the chain into a small stem and sew to pumpkin top for rustic look.

Stem Option :

Alternatively work 6 sc in magic ring, work 4 rounds in continuous sc to make a tiny tube, stuff lightly and secure; fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.

Leaf Round 1 :

With Olive, ch 7, sc in 2nd ch, hdc in next, dc in next 2, hdc in next, sc in last, sl st to starting ch to form leaf shape; fasten off leaving tail to sew. Make 2-4 leaves per pumpkin as seen.

Info :

Position leaves around stem when sewing pumpkin onto square so that they sit naturally and cover stitching. Block leaves flat for crisp edges.

— Attaching Pumpkins to Square :

Info :

Place pumpkin on square center; the square center should have a slightly raised flower-frame to nest the pumpkin. Pin pumpkin at equal intervals (4 pins around) to keep centered. Use mattress stitch or whip stitch to attach using long tail from pumpkin round-off. Hide knots under leaves or stem.

Step :

Thread long tail through yarn needle and sew through cream base round at evenly spaced points around pumpkin base (approx 8-10 attachment stitches) taking care to pull snug but not flatten pumpkin. Secure and weave ends into the bottom of pumpkin.

Info :

For small clustered pumpkins, sew the largest first and then sew small pumpkins beside it using the same technique. Use leaves to camouflage joins and make clusters appear natural.

— Joining Squares into a Runner :

Round 1 :

Lay all four squares in desired order. Using Rust yarn and whip stitch or slip-stitch join, join squares along one edge by matching sts; for slip-stitch join: attach yarn to last round edge, sl st through both loops of corresponding st across for neat join. Join long edges first to create a column.

Round 2 :

Once squares are joined, sc around the entire long edge seam on both sides in Cream to even out join and create a base for the lace border. Work 1 sc in each stitch and 3 sc in each corner to maintain shape.

Info :

When joining, ensure pumpkins face upward and seams sit flat between squares. If edges ripple, block again after joining and before adding outer border.

— Outer Lace Border :

Round 1 :

With Cream, join at any point on outer edge, ch 1, sc evenly around, placing 3 sc in each corner to stabilize, join (count will equal the total stitches around runner)

Round 2 :

Ch 3, *dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 1* repeat around with 3 dc in corners to create open lacy effect, join

Round 3 :

Change to Rust. Ch 1, sc in each st around and 3 sc in corners, join

Round 4 :

Change to Golden Yellow. Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in every fourth ch-1 space along sides to form decorative shells, join (creates repeating shell border)

Info :

These shell groupings will later support scalloped picot rounds; keep tension relaxed for lace movement.

Round 5 :

Change to Burnt Orange. Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch space around, 3 sc in corners, join

Round 6 :

Change to Cream. Ch 4 (counts as tr+ch1), *tr in next shell center, ch 1* repeat around placing 3 tr in corner shells, join

Round 7 :

Change to Rust. Ch 1, sc in each stitch, join

Round 8 :

Change to Golden Yellow. Picot scallop round: *ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook (picot), sc in next 3 sts, ch 3, picot, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, skip 2 sts* repeat to form pointed scallops; join

Info :

Work border on a flat surface, pin scallops to blocking mats before final weaving of ends. This helps scallops lay evenly and maintain shape.

Round 9 :

Change to Rust. Work a final round of sl st into inner loop behind picots to create a tidy finish; weave in all ends.

— Optional Decorative Embellishments :

Info :

Add small crocheted acorns, tiny leaves, or embroidered veins on leaves. Use contrasting thread to stitch small veins on pumpkin segments if desired. Tiny beads or wooden twig stems can be added for a rustic finish—secure with hot glue if needed.

— Finishing Touches :

Info :

Block and steam the entire runner lightly. Ensure pumpkins are secured and leaves arranged. If storing, keep the runner flat to avoid flattening pumpkins. Spot clean as necessary with gentle detergent—do not machine wash stuffed pumpkins unless you remove them first.

Info :

To shorten or lengthen the runner, add or remove square motifs before joining and repeat outer border rounds to fit the new length.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach pumpkin to square center aligning the pumpkin bottom with the cream frame round; pin in 4 places then sew using the long tail, making 8-10 evenly spaced attachment stitches so the pumpkin sits snugly in the square center.
  • Sew leaves around the stem area after attaching the pumpkin: position leaves so they slightly overlap the pumpkin base, then tack each leaf with 2-3 small invisible stitches using matching yarn.
  • Join squares into a column using slip-stitch join or whip stitch along the side edges, then work a round of sc in cream around the entire joined piece to stabilize the seams before adding the outer lace border.
  • When joining squares, match corner stitches carefully; if there is uneven tension, add or skip a sc in the seam to maintain a flat edge—then even out with the round of sc in cream.
  • Sew stems on last: either crochet small stem tubes and sew into place or position small twig stems and secure with yarn and a dab of fabric glue hidden under the leaves.
  • After border is complete, block the entire runner flat and pin the scalloped edge in place; leave to dry fully then weave in all remaining ends with a yarn needle.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers at the beginning of each round when working pumpkins and motif rounds to keep track of round starts and prevent drift.
  • 💡Stuff pumpkins gradually and test placement on the square before final sewing; under-stuff for flatter pumpkins and over-stuff lightly for more sculpted ribs.
  • 💡Work the pumpkins on a smaller hook for tighter stitches (3.25mm recommended) to hide stuffing and create crisp ribs.
  • 💡Block square motifs before joining to ensure even edges and easy alignment when assembling the runner.
  • 💡Keep yarn tails long when finishing motif rounds to use for initial sewing and to reduce the number of loose ends to weave in later.
  • 💡If your stitches become too loose on the border rounds, switch to a slightly smaller hook to maintain delicate lace definition.
  • 💡When adding optional twig stems, make sure ends are sanded or wrapped to avoid sharp points; secure well with glue and stitches if using non-fiber materials.
  • 💡Label your squares as you complete them so you remember which face you placed the pumpkins on and any clusters or color placements you intended.

This Burnt Orange Pumpkin Lace Table Runner brings the warmth of fall to any table with its charming 3D pumpkins, leafy accents, and delicate lace border. Each square is lovingly crocheted and topped with a sculpted pumpkin for a nostalgic harvest look. Whether finished as a short runner or full-length centerpiece, it’s a handmade treasure that will delight guests and family alike. 🧶🍁🧡

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we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Using worsted yarn and the specified hook sizes, the pictured runner with four squares measures approximately 38-42 inches (96-107 cm) long and 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) wide. Making fewer or more squares will change final length.

Can I adjust the number of squares for different table lengths?

Yes. The design is modular—make fewer squares for a short runner or more squares to extend length. Adjust outer border rounds proportionally to maintain balanced edges.

What kind of yarn works best?

Worsted weight (#4) cotton or cotton-blend yarn works well for stability and stitch definition in the lace border and pumpkin ribs. Acrylic will work too and is easier to wash; choose a yarn with good stitch definition for the pumpkins and leaves.

How much stuffing do I need for the pumpkins?

Each large pumpkin uses about 5-10 grams of polyester fiberfill. Total stuffing for 4 large pumpkins will be approximately 50 grams or less depending on desired firmness.

Can I make the pumpkins removable for washing?

Yes. Sew the pumpkins on with a long tail that can be unpicked to remove pumpkins before washing the runner. Alternatively, attach stems or use tacks under the pumpkins to allow removal.

Do I need to block pieces before assembly?

Blocking the square motifs before assembly is highly recommended to ensure even edges and easier joining. It also improves the appearance of the lace border.

Can I use different yarn weights or hooks?

Yes but expect the final size and drape to change. If using a different weight, adjust hook size accordingly and make a test square to check size and proportion for pumpkins and border.

How do I keep the ribs on the pumpkins crisp?

Create ribs by sewing yarn from top to bottom in equal segments after stuffing, or work post-stitches (fpdc/bpdc) in vertical columns before final closing. The sewn method is simplest and gives defined ribs.