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Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern
4.4★ Rating
8-10 Hours Time Needed
2.0K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

All-Day Adventure

Requires 8-10 hours, ideal for a full day of immersive crocheting.

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Holiday Cheer 🎄

Festive fun for the season, bringing handmade magic to celebrations and creating new family traditions.

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About This Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

This table runner is built from repeating circular cream medallions (four in the pictured sample) each topped with a three-dimensional green Christmas tree applique. The medallions are joined end-to-end and framed with delicate holly leaf clusters, red berry bobbles and ornate red bows. Gold and pearl beads are sewn onto trees and borders for a sparkling, finished look. A cream tassel finishes one end for a traditional, elegant touch.

Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The construction uses worsted weight yarn with textured stitches (shells, puff stitches and layered clusters) to create depth. Motifs are worked flat then appliqued and joined, so pieces are easy to position for even spacing and symmetry.

Why You'll Love This Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it blends classic holiday motifs with textured stitchwork — the layered tree clouds and scattered bead ornaments give so much character. I also appreciate how the runner is modular: you can easily change the number of medallions to fit your table, and the rich red holly clusters really pop against the creamy background. Making each medallion feels like a little project with a satisfying finish.

Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I adore how modular this runner is — I often make a three-medallion version for a console table or a six-medallion version for a larger farmhouse table. Swapping the medallion base color to a soft gray or deep red changes the whole mood instantly.

I also like customizing the tree: try crocheting the tree tiers with a variegated green or add metallic thread for a subtle shimmer. For a child-friendly version, skip the beads and embroider small felt ornaments instead.

Finally, try different tassels or replace the bows with wooden ornament buttons for a rustic look. Small changes like bead placement, bow size and leaf density make each runner unique and special.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned rounds and uneven medallions; always mark the start of each round. ✗ Changing colors without securing ends creates loose tails that will pull later; weave in yarn tails as you change colors or carry yarn neatly. ✗ Overstuffing appliques like the tree tiers with fiberfill distorts the flat medallion surface; use minimal or no stuffing for appliques unless stated. ✗ Working with too loose tension causes gaps that reveal your table surface; use a slightly smaller hook if your fabric is holey. ✗ Sewing motifs together without pinning first can result in uneven spacing; pin each medallion and border piece before stitching. ✗ Adding beads before securing them properly will cause loss during use; sew beads with a doubled thread and secure with a few backstitches. ✗ Not blocking the medallions can make joining difficult; gently block flat circles before assembling for best alignment.

Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

A festive crocheted table runner featuring repeating cream medallions with dimensional green Christmas tree appliques, red bows, holly clusters and a tasseled finish. Each circular motif is richly textured with layered stitches and bead accents for classic holiday charm. Designed to sit lengthwise on a dining table, this runner brings handcrafted warmth and seasonal color to holiday settings.

Intermediate 8-10 Hours

Materials Needed for Green And Cream Christmas Tree Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4) approximately 400-500g in cream (main medallion color) — about 120g per 4-medallion runner plus edging
  • 02
    150-200g in dark forest green for trees and holly leaves
  • 03
    70-90g in bright red for bows and berry clusters
  • 04
    Small amounts (20-40g each) in gold and brown for star and trunks
  • 05
    Optional: small pearls and metallic gold beads (approx 30-40 beads total) for tree ornaments

— Tools Required

  • 01
    4.0mm (G) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.5mm (E) hook for slightly tighter details and leaves (optional)
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing pieces and weaving ends
  • 04
    Small sharp scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6 for tracking rounds and motif joins)
  • 06
    Blocking pins and surface for blocking medallions
  • 07
    Beading needle and strong thread for sewing beads
  • 08
    Small amount of polyester fiberfill for optional tassel core
  • 09
    Optional: clear fabric glue for securing beads (use sparingly)
  • 10
    Optional: tapestry needles in multiple sizes for applique details

Progress Tracker

0% Complete

— Cream Medallion (Make 4; central base) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)

Info :

Change to cream (if not already). Keep tension even; this medallion forms the base for the applique so keep it flat. Use a stitch marker at round starts.

Round 7 :

(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9 :

(7 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (54)

Round 10 :

(8 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (60)

Round 11 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Info :

From now on we will build textured rings to support the applique. If you prefer a wider medallion, work an extra increase round in the same pattern before continuing.

Round 12 :

*ch 1, sk 1 st, 2 dc in next st* repeat around to create scallop guide (60)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st (60)

Round 14 :

(2 sc, 1 inc) x 20 (80)

Info :

Round 14 increases to create a broader frame for the tree. Confirm your stitch count before moving on; 80 sts total expected.

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st around (80)

Round 16 :

Working in BLO: 1 sc in each st BLO (80)

Round 17 :

1 sc in each st (80)

Round 18 :

To form decorative rope: *ch2, sk 2 sts, sc in next st* repeat (approx 27 ch2 spaces) fasten off and weave ends (80)

Info :

Block medallion flat before adding tree applique. This ensures that the base stays round when you sew on 3D elements.

— Tree Applique (Make 4; worked in dark green) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st (18)

Round 5 :

Change to puff cluster texture: *ch1, make puff (yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull up loop 5 times, yo and pull through all loops), ch1, sl st next st* repeat across for 18 puff points (18)

Info :

The tree will be built in tiered rows (lower, middle, upper). Puff clusters create the dimensional foliage. Keep puffs consistent by pulling loops to the same height.

Round 6 :

Attach at bottom center of medallion: ch 1, sl st to position. Row 1 (base tier): ch 2, 12 dc across the lower arc into front loops of medallion forming the first triangle base. Turn (12)

Round 7 :

Row 2: ch 2, (dc in next 2 sts, dec) repeat across to reduce to 9 dc (9)

Round 8 :

Row 3: ch 2, (dc in next 1 st, dec) x 3 to make 6 dc (6)

Round 9 :

Row 4: ch2, dec x 3 to shape apex (3)

Info :

Work tiers leaving small tails for sewing or work directly onto medallion by slip-stitching at the base. If you prefer a flatter tree, omit puff cluster rounds and use simple dc shells for tiers.

Round 10 :

Edge foliage with picot trim: sc across, *ch3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook (picot), sc next 2 sts* repeat along edges to create leafy points (approx 30 picots)

Round 11 :

Optional deep texture: work *puff, sc next st* around the triangular surface to create random bobbles (approx 24 puffs)

Round 12 :

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew. Flatten tree tiers slightly, arrange on medallion centered between rounds 12-15 of medallion. Sew tree securely with whip stitch through lower arc and along sides.

Info :

Place tree base so its bottom tier sits approximately 10-12 sts above medallion edge to center it in the round. Use pins to secure exact placement before sewing.

— Tree Trunk (Make 4) :

Round 1 :

With brown yarn, ch 4, join to form short tube: sc in each ch around for two rounds (4)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st (4)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st (4)

Info :

Stuff lightly or leave flat. Sew trunk to bottom center of tree underside so it peeks below the lowest tier. Secure tightly with yarn tail.

— Tree Star (Make 4) :

Round 1 :

With gold yarn, ch 2, work 5 sc into the second ch from hook (5)

Round 2 :

*ch 2, 2 dc into same st, sl st to next st* repeat 5 times to create 5 points, fasten off (star with 5 points)

Info :

Sew star to the apex of each tree using small invisible stitches and secure with extra knot on the back. Add a tiny gold bead at center for sparkle if desired.

— Bead Embellishments (Per Tree) :

Info :

Sew beads onto puffs and across the tree surface: use small metallic gold rounds, pearl beads and red seed beads for variety. Plan approximately 6-8 beads per tree depending on size.

Round 1 :

Thread bead on beading needle; push through from back of tree to front, then back again nearby. Tie off securely on wrong side with a small knot and weave tail into backing.

Info :

Use doubled thread or a short length of strong beading thread. Make at least two backstitches per bead if runner will be handled frequently.

— Red Bow (Make 3; between medallions) :

Round 1 :

With red yarn ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook across (11)

Round 2 :

Ch1, turn, sc across (11)

Round 3 :

Repeat Round 2 (11)

Round 4 :

Fold rectangle in half lengthwise and whip stitch edges to create a long tube. Turn right side out and flatten to form bow loops.

Round 5 :

Wrap a short length of red yarn tightly around the center several times to cinch bow. Secure underside with knot and weave ends.

Info :

Sew bow between medallions at the junction of two cream circles, aligning center with medallion edges. Make three bows for a four-medallion runner (top, middle, bottom junctions).

— Holly Leaf Cluster (Make many; decorate edges) :

Round 1 :

With green yarn, ch 6. Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc next, dc next, tr next, hdc in last (5 shaped stitches)

Round 2 :

Flip and work along opposite side: hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc to form a pointed leaf (10 total stitches per leaf)

Round 3 :

Fasten off leaving tail for sewing. Make clusters of 3-5 leaves sewn together to form plentiful holly clusters — position clusters symmetrically along both sides of runner.

Info :

Make approximately 24-30 leaves for a four-medallion runner: 6 clusters with 4 leaves each gives a lush border. Vary orientation for a natural look.

— Red Berry Bobble (Make many) :

Round 1 :

With red yarn, make 5 sc in magic ring (5)

Round 2 :

Sl st into each st around to close and fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing (5)

Info :

Make approximately 18-24 small berries per runner. Sew berries in clusters of 3 near holly leaves and around medallion edges. For larger berry clusters, place two or three close together.

— Border Bead Clusters and Gold Accents :

Info :

Using small gold beads and round pearls, stitch accents sporadically into the holly clusters and around the medallion border. Space beads to balance the composition and to echo ornaments on trees.

Round 1 :

Sew gold beads into leaf junctions using doubled beading thread. Tie securely on the back and hide knots in adjacent stitches.

Info :

Place a larger pearl bead at top and lower sides of each tree medallion as shown in photo — these are focal ornaments and should be sewn very securely.

— Joining Medallions and Edge Construction :

Info :

Lay medallions in desired order on a flat surface. Pin bows at junctions, then pin holly clusters along outer edges. Decide whether you want all medallions tightly joined or with slight gaps for decorative leaves; the pictured example is fully joined edge-to-edge with holly overlay.

Round 1 :

Position two medallions together with right sides facing up overlapping approximately 8-10 sts at the edges. Whip stitch through both outer rounds along overlap to join (use matching cream yarn). Repeat to join all medallions end-to-end (stitch length varies by overlap).

Round 2 :

After joining medallions, crochet around entire runner edge to unify: attach cream yarn at one side seam and work 1 sc in each visible st for one round (total approximately 320-360 sc depending on overlap)

Round 3 :

Edge scallop: *ch3, sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, ch3, sl st in next st* repeat around to create decorative scallops between holly cluster positions (scallops approx 20-24)

Info :

When adding leaves and berries to the edge, sew them onto the cream edge round before working the final scallop round so they appear integrated.

— Additional Filler Leaves and Sprigs :

Round 1 :

Make small sprigs by chaining 8; sc back along chain, at second-to-last chain work a picot, finish and fasten off. Attach these between holly clusters for fullness (make 12-16 sprigs).

Info :

Arrange sprigs so they face alternately left and right. Sew them down with small stitches through base only so tips stay slightly free for texture.

— Lower Decorative Bow with Tassel (End of Runner) :

Round 1 :

Make a larger red bow as earlier but ch 18 to form longer loops; sc across (17) for a fuller bow.

Round 2 :

Fold and cinch center, secure and sew to end medallion center - approximately centered across final medallion's bottom edge.

Round 3 :

Make tassel: wind cream yarn around a 6-inch cardboard 30 times, tie firmly at top with a short piece of yarn, cut bottom loops to form tassel fringe (approx 30 strands). Optional: make a small core of fiberfill for fuller tassel.

Round 4 :

Sew tassel loop to underside center of last medallion under the bow. Trim tassel evenly and comb lightly.

Info :

Attach tassel so it hangs freely but is sewn through the medallion for security. Reinforce with several stitches and tie a small knot through the tassel loop on the back.

— Finishing Touches and Secure Weaving :

Round 1 :

Weave in all tails on wrong side with yarn needle. Use invisible weave method: thread tail through several stitches and bring out a few rounds away before trimming close.

Round 2 :

Spritz lightly with water and pin medallions flat on blocking board, easing holly leaves and bows into position. Allow to dry completely to set layout.

Round 3 :

Final secure: test beads and bows by tugging gently; if any show movement, add extra stitches beneath or a small dot of fabric glue hidden on underside for extra hold.

Info :

Store runner flat or rolled around a tube to preserve shape. Avoid heavy folding which can flatten puffs and bows.

Assembly Instructions

  • Lay out all four cream medallions flat on a large blocking surface in the order you want them to appear. Pin each medallion so their outer edges just touch or overlap by approximately 8-10 sts depending on desired look.
  • Sew medallions together through the outer rounds using a whip stitch with matching cream yarn. Join seam by stitching through both medallions' outer fifth round for a secure but flexible join.
  • Position and sew each green tree applique to its medallion centered vertically and horizontally: lower edge of tree should be approximately 10-12 sts above the medallion edge. Use small whip stitches and secure tails on the wrong side.
  • Attach tree trunks centered beneath each tree base, sewing through the trunk tube and medallion base to stabilize. Reinforce with an extra pass of yarn across trunk join.
  • Pin bows at the junctions between medallions (and one at the bottom end if using three bows). Sew bows through the center cinch only, avoiding visible stitches on the bow loops. Hide sewing tails under the bow center knot.
  • Arrange holly leaf clusters along the sides and spaces between medallions and sew through the leaf bases only to create a slightly raised, natural look. Sew berry bobbles on top of leaf junctions and secure beads with doubled thread and at least two backstitches each.
  • Sew gold stars to tree apexes and secure beads on trees with a beading needle and doubled thread. Tie knots on wrong side and weave tails through several stitches before trimming.
  • Attach the tassel under the lower end medallion by sewing through the tassel loop and medallion rounds; reinforce underside with several short stitches and trimmings for a clean finish.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain perfect round shaping.
  • 💡Stuff tree appliques only minimally, if at all; too much stuffing makes the tree too bulky on the flat medallion.
  • 💡When sewing beads, use a doubled beading thread or doubled yarn for extra hold and knot securely on the wrong side.
  • 💡Block each medallion flat before assembly to ensure uniform size and easier joining.
  • 💡Pin all embellishments in position and photograph layout before sewing so placement is symmetrical and repeatable across medallions.
  • 💡If your fabric has gaps, switch to a 3.5mm hook for tighter tension for the appliques while keeping medallions at 4.0mm if you prefer a slightly softer base.
  • 💡Weave in ends by passing the tail through at least 6-8 stitches toward the interior and back out to hide; never snip too close to the fabric surface.
  • 💡Test-fit bows, tassels, and beads on the table before final stitching to confirm length and balance.

This festive runner brings old-fashioned holiday charm to any table — four layered medallions adorned with dimensional trees, holly clusters, and bright red bows make it a standout seasonal centerpiece. Each stitch contributes to a warm, handcrafted atmosphere and the added beads catch the light beautifully. Finishing the tassel is such a satisfying final flourish, and it looks stunning draped down the end of a dining table. 🧶🎁✨

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

With four medallions joined as shown and no extra gaps, the finished runner measures approximately 42-48 inches long and 8-10 inches wide. Adjust the number of medallions to lengthen or shorten as desired.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. If you use a thicker yarn (bulky), switch to a larger hook and expect a significantly larger runner. For a finer look, use DK weight with a smaller hook; remember to test gauge and adjust medallion count for desired length.

Do I need to use beads or can I skip them?

Beads are decorative and optional. Skipping them creates a softer, more textile look. If you include them, secure with doubled thread and test for movement to ensure durability.

How do I prevent the medallions from cupping or warping?

Blocking each finished medallion while damp and pinning flat until fully dry ensures they remain flat. Also check your tension: slightly tighter tension reduces cupping.

Can I make the runner with a different number of medallions?

Absolutely. The pattern modules are independent — add or subtract medallions to fit your table. Add extra joining and border elements when you change the count.

How much stuffing is needed?

Most appliques are unstuffed. Only the tassel core might include a small amount of fiberfill; overall you likely need less than 20 grams of fiberfill for all tassels if you choose to pad them slightly.

Are the bows machine washable?

If you plan to machine wash, sew down bows and beads securely and place runner in a mesh bag on a gentle cycle. However, hand washing and flat drying is recommended to protect delicate beads and 3D elements.

Can I make the runner reversible?

Making it fully reversible would require constructing appliques differently (worked as flat, mirrored pieces) and sewing embellishments into hidden seams. This pattern is designed for a single-sided decorative finish.