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Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern

Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern
4.9★ Rating
12-15 Hours Time Needed
3.2K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

⏱️

Slow & Steady

A 10+ hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern

This Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread is a richly textured bedcover composed of layered floral granny squares worked in lavender, plum, soft pink, cream and olive tones. Each square features a raised multi-row flower center with puff and petal layers, finished with tiny pearl-like beads and linked with deep plum join rows to create dramatic contrast. The bedspread is completed with a lacy scalloped border, corner tassels strung with brass-tone beads, and matching pillow shams styled from four joined squares. The finished look is elegant, heirloom quality and perfect for a romantic, cottage or vintage-inspired bedroom.

Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern teaches both layered motif construction and a join-as-you-go plus overlay edging technique so the final piece retains structure and a neat reverse. Designed to be modular: make as many squares as you need for your bed size, and customize tassels and beadwork to suit your decor.

Why You'll Love This Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern

I love how each square becomes a little sculpted flower—the layered petals and soft color transitions create such a tactile and luxurious surface. The combination of deep purple joins and pale floral centers makes the design sing in any bedroom. I also appreciate the way the join-as-you-go method keeps the assembly neat and reduces finishing time, and the bead-and-tassel corners add a refined, jewel-like sparkle I find irresistible.

Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern step 1 - construction progress Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how this pattern allows you to personalize every element—colors, bead sizes, and tassel lengths all dramatically change the mood of the final piece. Try a muted neutral palette for a timeless, vintage look, or choose brighter contrasting colors for a modern twist.

I often experiment with different yarn textures for petal layers: a soft wool blend gives a cozy sculptural petal, while a cotton-blend yields crisp petals and cleaner stitch definition. You can also swap the plum join color to a soft gray for a subtler grid or metallic thread for glam highlights.

If you want to make a runner or table cloth, reduce motif count and make a narrow strip; for a bed throw, make fewer motifs and skip tassels for an everyday friendly piece. There are so many ways to make this pattern your own—mix and match yarn weights, change bead colors, and have fun exploring how small adjustments transform the final look.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts causes misaligned corners and uneven pattern repeats; always mark the first stitch of each round. ✗ Using a hook that is too large will create loose stitches that reveal stuffing or show gaps between puff stitches; use recommended hook size and swatch to test tension. ✗ Changing color without securing and weaving tails increases bulk; carry short floats only across small gaps and secure ends during assembly. ✗ Not blocking motifs before joining can make squares different sizes and create a wavy bedspread; gently steam or wet block each finished square for uniformity. ✗ Adding beads before final blocking makes placement difficult; position and string beads after blocks are finished but before final joining for best results. ✗ Overstuffing tassels or using heavy beads at corners can pull the bedspread unevenly; use balanced bead weights and test corner hang before finishing all tassels.

Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern

A luxurious layered granny bedspread featuring three-dimensional lavender floral motifs, delicate beading and long tasselled corners. This pattern creates a richly textured bedcover and matching pillow shams in soft purples, greens and creams. Each square is built in layers for dramatic petal depth, then joined and edged with a decorative lacy border and brass-tone beads. Detailed step-by-step instructions guide you through motif construction, join-as-you-go technique, edging, tassels and pillow finishing.

Advanced 12-15 Hours

Materials Needed for Lavender Jewel Layered Granny Bedspread Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 1400-1700g in deep plum/purple (main join and border color)
  • 02
    800-1000g in lavender/lilac for primary petal layers
  • 03
    500-700g in soft pink for inner petals and center details
  • 04
    400-500g in olive green for leaf rounds
  • 05
    200-300g in cream/beige for bead foundation and small accent rounds
  • 06
    50-100g metallic or sheen thread for optional gold outline work
  • 07
    Small bag of coordinating 4-6mm round beads (approx. 200-300 beads) and larger brass-tone spacer beads for tassel ends

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work (recommended for textured stitches)
  • 02
    3.25mm (D) crochet hook for tighter sections and bead rounds
  • 03
    Yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing details
  • 04
    Scissors
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6-8)
  • 06
    Blocking tools: pins and blocking mats or towels
  • 07
    Small blunt beading needle and fine thread for stringing/attaching beads
  • 08
    Brass-tone spacer beads for tassel finishing and corner accents
  • 09
    Tapestry needle and optional upholstery thread for heavy-duty joins
  • 10
    Optional: small drop pendant beads and large tassel hook

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— Overview & Gauge :

Info :

Make a 10cm/4in square gauge by working one full motif through Round 36 using the recommended hook and yarn. Gauge is not critical for modular assembly but important for even joins and consistent bedspread size. All rounds are worked in continuous rounds unless noted. Join rounds with sl st. Work puff stitches by yarning over, inserting hook, yarning over and pulling loop through 3 or 4 times to create elongated stitches, then draw yarn through all loops and secure with a ch or sc as instructed.

— Floral Layered Motif (make one square) :

Round 1 :

Work 8 sc in magic ring (8)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st around (16)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 8 (24)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 8 (32)

Info :

This establishes a firm, compact center to anchor beadwork. If you plan to glue beads, place them now; for sewn beads wait until the motif is blocked.

Round 5 :

Change to cream. 1 sc in each st around (32)

Round 6 :

Work bead round: ch1, *(sl st into next st, push a 4mm bead onto thread and slide to work, ch1)* repeat around (32 beads placed) (32)

Info :

Slip-stitching beads into place creates a jewel-like center ring. Use a fine beading needle and thread to pre-string beads on a short length, and slide as you sl st so beads are secured within the round.

Round 7 :

Change to soft pink. *Ch2, puff (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop six times total), ch2, sl st into next st* repeat 8 times into the bead ring to form 8 small puff clusters (8 petals)

Round 8 :

1 sc between each puff cluster around (16)

Info :

Keep tension slightly loose on puff stitches to let petals sit above the center. Count puff clusters to ensure an even petal ring; adjust repeats if a small count error occurs.

Round 9 :

Change to lavender. In each puff cluster work: sl st into base, ch1, (sc, hdc, dc, puff, dc, hdc, sc) to create a fuller petal; sl st to next base (8 larger petals)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st around petals to bind and create a neat edge (56)

Info :

If you prefer a sharper petal, add an extra dc or use dtr in the center of the petal. This round creates the first depth layer so maintain consistent stitch heights.

Round 11 :

Change to plum. *(Ch3, skip 1, sl st) into next 2 stitches to create decorative loops* repeat around to add a subtle lacy ridge (56 loops)

Round 12 :

1 sc in each st and in each ch3 loop around (56)

Round 13 :

Change to lavender. Work 16 elongated puff leaves: *[skip 2 sts, work (puff in next st, ch1, puff in same st), ch1]* around placing clusters evenly to start a second petal ring (16 puff clusters)

Round 14 :

Between each puff cluster: (sc, hdc, dc) into the base of the cluster to open petals (48)

Info :

These puff cluster groups form the intermediate petal layer. Use stitch markers for the first and last cluster to ensure even spacing if the cluster count feels off.

Round 15 :

Change to soft pink. In each of the 16 cluster bases work: (sc, ch2, 3 dc shell, ch2, sc) to make pronounced sculpted petals (each shell occupies a wide area) (16 shells)

Round 16 :

1 sc around including into each ch-space of shells to tidy edges (96)

Round 17 :

Change to olive green for leaf foundation: *ch4, sl st into next st* around placement positions (24 small chain loops) (24)

Round 18 :

In each ch4 loop work: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to make small leaf motifs (24 leaves)

Info :

These leaf motifs sit between larger petals; keep them slightly flattened during work so they tuck under the next border round. Place pins to hold leaves during blocking if needed.

Round 19 :

Change to plum. 1 sc in each st around to create a uniform base (120)

Round 20 :

*(3 sc, ch3, 3 sc) forming corner cluster, 12 sc across side spaces* Repeat to create a rounded-square scaffold of 4 corner ch3 spaces (work 4 corners) (approx.120-132 depending on distribution)

Info :

This round begins the conversion of the round motif into a square approximate shape. Adjust the number of sc between corner clusters to keep the motif centered; use stitch counts to distribute evenly across sides.

Round 21 :

Change to cream. In each corner ch3 space work: (sc, ch2, 5 dc, ch2, sc) to make a pronounced corner petal cluster (4 big corner petals)

Round 22 :

1 sc around across previous stitches, working 1 sc into each dc and sc st to unify the square (approx.164)

Round 23 :

Change to lavender. Work chain arches along the side: *ch6, skip 3, sl st* repeat across each side to create a lacy side outline. Make sure corners retain the corner petals as anchors (approx. 28 arches)

Round 24 :

Into each ch6 arch work: (sc, 3 dc, sc) to create scallops and strengthen side structure (scallop count depends on arch count) (approx. 112 stitches)

Info :

At this stage, the motif has both a round floral center and a square exterior. Measure across the square diagonally and side-to-side; motifs should be within 2-3 mm of each other for even joining. Block if needed before continuing.

Round 25 :

Change to plum. 1 sc around in BLO to create a raised ridge that will help when joining the squares (112)

Round 26 :

Decorative overlay: *ch4, sl st to create corner picot clusters across sides, lay thin metallic thread over petals and chain it in with sl st at 6-8 evenly spaced points* (visual overlay, no stitch count)

Info :

If using metallic thread, carry it loosely and secure at discrete points with sl st. Do not pull tight or it will pucker the motif. This overlay is optional but gives that jewel-lined look present in the photographed bedspread.

Round 27 :

Change to cream. Work a bead accent row similar to Round 6: sl st, place small bead onto stitch, ch1, repeat around to echo the center bead ring (112 beads placed) (112)

Round 28 :

Join border foundation: ch1, 1 sc in each st around working 3 sc in each corner space to ensure squared corners (approx. 120)

Round 29 :

Decorative corner picots: In each corner area work (sc, ch3, sl st back into sc) to form small loops (4 corners)

Round 30 :

Final motif tidy: 1 sc in each st around, weave in ends and trim. Block motif to size and flatten layers with steam or wet-blocking. Final finished motif should measure approx. 18-20cm (7-8in) square depending on yarn and tension.

Info :

Many of the decorative rounds use approximate stitch counts because puff and shell stitches alter counts slightly; the counts given are target ranges and must be adjusted to keep the square regular. Count your stitches frequently and use blocking to unify size across motifs.

— Square Frame & Reinforcement (continue on each motif) :

Round 31 :

Change to plum. Work 1 sc evenly around working (3 sc, ch1, 3 sc) into each corner to beef up the corner and provide anchor for join-as-you-go (approx. 128)

Round 32 :

1 hdc in each st around to add a subtle ridge and slightly firm the square (128)

Info :

This reinforcement layer prevents corners from stretching when joined. If you prefer a flatter lay, use sc instead of hdc for this round.

Round 33 :

FLO: 1 sc in each st FLO around to create a small ridge that will highlight the square grid when assembled (128)

Round 34 :

Change to cream. *Ch5, sl st into next 2 sts to create side chain points across each side* repeat forming 4 groups of chain points per side (~16 chain points)

Round 35 :

Into each ch5 point make (sc, 5 dc, sc) to form small corner blossom points enhancing the square silhouette (approx. 160)

Round 36 :

Edge finish for motif: 1 sc in each st around. Fasten off leaving a tail for joining. Block motif carefully to exact size for assembly.

Info :

Prepare all motifs in the same manner and block them in the same orientation so that petal direction and bead positions are aligned when joining. Make as many motifs as required for your bed size: single bed typically 24-30 motifs (6x4 to 6x5), double/queen 48-56 motifs (8x6 to 8x7), king adjust accordingly.

— Join-As-You-Go & Center Panel Assembly :

Round 37 :

Place first motif RS up. Attach plum yarn to a side sc on motif A; ch1, 1 sc into same st to secure (join row start) (no stitch count)

Round 38 :

Preparing to join motif B: With motifs RS together where joining is desired, bring motif B up beside motif A. Align centers. Insert hook into next sc on motif A then into corresponding sc on motif B, work a sl st to join. Repeat sl st joins across the side with joins every 6-8 stitches to secure motifs flat (join length depends on motif size)

Info :

When joining, maintain tension equal to the motif fabric so the seam sits flat and does not pull. For stronger joins, use 1 sc through both motifs instead of sl st every other stitch, alternating sl st and sc for reduced bulk.

Round 39 :

After joining one side, rotate the work and join the next adjacent motif in the same manner until a row of motifs is joined. Add stitch markers at each seam to maintain alignment when joining rows together (no stitch count)

Round 40 :

Form grid: once two rows are joined, continue joining subsequent motifs using join-as-you-go along the side of already-joined motifs, working into the reinforcement sc row (Round 31) to ensure structural joins (no stitch count)

Info :

For larger bedspreads, assemble motifs in strips or panels then join panels together to make management easier. Press or steam panels lightly after each panel completion to keep work flat.

Round 41 :

After full grid formed, work a connecting row in plum across all seam lines: with RS up, join plum to first seam intersection and work 1 sc along seam through both motif edges working extra sc at corner intersections to create a raised lattice (approx. variable)

Round 42 :

In the lattice row work chain loops between each sc cluster: *ch6, sl st into next sc of seam* continue along all seams to form decorative openwork channels across the bedspread (variable count)

Info :

This decorative seam row replicates the dark plum linear detailing visible between square motifs in the photo. Keep spacing regular; measure the side of a finished square and divide seam loops evenly to avoid bunching.

Round 43 :

Reinforce seam lattice with a row of sc across both edges of the ch6 loops to lock them down, working 1 sc into each ch6 midpoint to anchor beads later (variable count)

Round 44 :

Thread beads onto a fine thread and secure every 2nd ch6 loop by couching a bead through the loop with sl st, or use sl st with pre-strung bead to attach them to the midpoints (variable)

Info :

Stringing beads into the seam loops gives the bedspread the tiny jewel points visible in the photos. Attach beads securely and test a corner before committing to all seams as bead counts and placements are a personal choice.

— Outer Decorative Border & Scallops :

Round 45 :

With RS up and plum yarn, join to any seam or edge stitch and work 1 sc evenly around the entire outer edge of the assembled panel. Work 3 sc in corners for sharp, square corners. This creates a base for the decorative border (work total stitches to encompass edge)

Round 46 :

Change to lavender. *1 hdc in next 2 sts, ch3, sk 2, 1 sc in next st* repeat around to create even chain arches for lace scalloping (approx. variable)

Round 47 :

Into each ch3 arch work: (sc, 5 dc, sc) to build the scalloped shell; place shells evenly around. Add 3 shells in each outer corner for rounded corners (shell count variable)

Info :

When working the shells, ensure corners receive additional shells or extra dc clusters so the border lies flat. Use blocking pins to set scallops before drying.

Round 48 :

Change to cream. Work a picot edging: *(sc, ch3, sl st into base of last sc)* across shells to create a delicate pointed edging that will pick up beads later (variable)

Round 49 :

With plum, work an overlay lattice: *sl st into back of shell base, ch10, sl st into next shell base* repeat to form long connecting chains across scallops (this creates the diamond overlay seen between squares)

Info :

This overlay forms the rope-like diamond grid visible across the bedspread. Keep chains consistent in length; shorter or longer chains will change the diamond size dramatically. Use stitch markers every 10 chains while measuring against the motif to maintain uniform diamonds.

Round 50 :

Embellish overlay: string small beads onto plumb yarn and, using the chain overlay row as anchor points, work sl st into chain midpoints securing beads evenly to give the 'gold dot' appearance. Tie off and weave ends securely at the back.

Round 51 :

Change to olive green. Work leaf clusters between scallops on the border by making small two-row leaf petals: ch4, sl st back into base, then in next row work sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc across each leaf. Place leaves at 3-5 regular points depending on border length (variable)

Round 52 :

Edge reinforcement: with plum, 1 sc in each st around including into picot tips, placing 3 sc in corners to stabilize. Fasten off leaving long tail for tassel attachment points (approx. variable)

Info :

After this row, the blanket edge is stable and ready for tassels. Block the full bedspread flat and verify that border scallops are even and diamond overlays are not twisted. Make adjustments before final finishing.

— Tassels, Beads & Corner Finishing :

Round 53 :

Create tassel bundle: Wind main plum yarn around a 10cm/4in cardboard 60 times for a medium-thick tassel. Remove, tie top with short yarn tail and attach bead string as below (no stitch count)

Round 54 :

Attach tassel to corner: fold tassel tie into a loop and pull through outermost corner sc, pass ends through loop to secure (lark's head) and tighten so tassel hangs neatly from corner picot. Repeat for all four corners and additional side points if desired.

Round 55 :

String beads: Attach a strand of 3 brass-tone beads to the top of tassel using strong thread, slide beads to top of tassel, knot thread and secure by sewing into corner area. Add a bead above the corner picot on each corner for symmetry (no stitch count)

Info :

Select bead sizes and weights according to how you want tassels to hang; larger beads will pull corners down and create more drape. Test one tassel first before completing all corners to ensure balance.

Round 56 :

Trim tassel ends evenly and wrap a small decorative yarn wrap at top to hide knots. Secure wrap with a dab of fabric glue if needed, then weave in all ends into the back of the border.

Round 57 :

Optional final sheen: lightly tack metallic thread across highlight points using tiny sl st or couching to accent petal edges and overlay chains, then steam lightly to set (no stitch count)

Info :

All finishing touches (beads, tassels, metallic thread) are optional but they contribute to the jewel quality of the spread. Secure beads and tassels thoroughly if the piece will be used frequently.

— Pillow Shams (Make 2 fronts, 2 backs each) :

Round 58 :

Arrange four motifs RS up in 2x2 square for a pillow front. Join them using join-as-you-go method described in Rounds 37-44 so there is a neat plum seam around and between motifs. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Round 59 :

Edging around sham: with plum, join at outer edge and work 1 sc around entire 2x2 panel, placing 3 sc in each outer corner for firmness (approx. variable)

Round 60 :

Change to lavender and work 2 rounds of scallop shells across the edge: round 1 shells: (sc, 5 dc, sc) into chain arches; round 2 shells: into each previous shell work (sc, 7 dc, sc) for a plump decorative border (variable stitch counts)

Round 61 :

Make a backing: using plum yarn create a rectangle of sc rows to match the finished 2x2 front measurements plus 1.5cm seam allowance. Join backing to front by sewing an invisible whip stitch or by crocheting 1 round sc through both layers, leaving one side open for insert (no stitch count)

Round 62 :

Insert pillow form and close opening with slip-stitch or sew closed using tapestry needle. Attach small tassels and bead accents at the four corners of the sham using method described in Rounds 53-55.

Info :

For an envelope closure, make the backing slightly larger and overlap the back panels by one third, finishing the edge with a tidy sc row. Alternatively add a zipper or buttons as preferred.

— Final Finishing & Care :

Round 63 :

Weave in all tail ends on the wrong side using a tapestry needle, burying ends across multiple stitches for security. Trim excess yarn carefully.

Round 64 :

Final blocking: wet block the full bedspread on a flat surface, pinning scallops and diamonds in place. Allow to dry completely before removing pins.

Round 65 :

Light steam: using a steam iron held above the piece, lightly steam to set shape if safe for the yarn fiber. Avoid pressing directly on beads or metallic thread.

Info :

Label the underside with a small sewn tag describing fiber content and care instructions: hand wash cool, reshape and dry flat to preserve shape and bead finishes.

Assembly Instructions

  • Assemble motifs into strips by joining sides using join-as-you-go: align RS of two motifs and work sl st or sc through the corresponding reinforcement rounds (Round 31-33). Work evenly from center out to corners for a flat seam.
  • Join strips together using the same method, matching seam lattice rows to maintain diamond overlay continuity. Pin panels before finishing to ensure even placement and to prevent skewing.
  • Attach the outer border by crocheting directly onto the assembled panel edge: join plum to outermost sc (Round 45) and work border rounds. Ensure corners receive additional clusters for a tidy finish.
  • Sew or crochet pillow shams by joining four motifs into a 2x2 front, adding scalloped edging and creating a fabric backing sized to fit your pillow insert. Close with hidden stitches or a crocheted border.
  • Make tassels and attach them by pulling looped top through corner picot, passing tassel tails through loop and tightening. String brass-tone beads above tassel and secure thread with multiple stitches inside corner seam.
  • Attach small beads along seam lattice by pre-stringing beads onto thin thread or yarn and couching them on sl st anchor points. Secure each bead with several small stitches on the wrong side.
  • Weave all ends through multiple stitches on the wrong side and knot discreetly to prevent unraveling. Hide knots within motif layers or the border scaffold.
  • Block the completed bedspread and shams: pin scallops and diamond overlays into final position, let dry completely, then remove pins and re-check bead placements before use.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping.
  • 💡Stuff body parts gradually as you work rather than waiting until the end, especially for narrow openings like arms and legs.
  • 💡For safety eyes, position and secure before stuffing head fully - they cannot be repositioned once locked in place.
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff, small pieces, too loose creates floppy, holey fabric.
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use yarn slightly thinner than working yarn for neater, less visible seams.
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry.
  • 💡For amigurumi, work tightly enough that stuffing doesn't show through stitches.
  • 💡Block motifs uniformly; inconsistent blocking will create a wavy join and an uneven bedspread.

This layered floral bedspread combines sculptural crochet techniques with delicate beadwork to create a truly special heirloom. Each square blossoms with layered petals and jewel accents, assembling into a luxurious cover that transforms your bedroom. The matching shams and tasseled corners make the final result sumptuously coordinated. 🧶✨ Try it in your favorite colorway and enjoy the slow, rewarding process of making something beautiful by hand. 🌸

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this bedspread?

Based on the specified motif size (approximately 18-20cm/7-8in square), a 6x8 grid yields a spread approximately 108-128cm by 144-160cm; adjust number of motifs for exact bed size (single, double, queen, king).

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes! Using heavier yarn (aran or bulky) will produce larger motifs and a denser bedspread; choose a hook 1-2 sizes smaller than recommended yarn gauge for tight textured stitches. Keep in mind bead sizes and tassel weight may need adjusting.

Do I need to use beads or can I skip them?

Beads are decorative and optional. They provide the jewel-like accents seen in the photographs, but motifs and joins will still look beautiful without them. If skipping beads, omit bead rounds and reinforce those stitches instead.

How many motifs will I need for a queen-size bed?

For a queen-size bed you will likely need around 48-56 motifs depending on your desired drape; measure your motif after blocking and calculate motifs across width and length plus any desired overhang.

Can I wash the finished bedspread?

Care depends on yarn fiber. For acrylic or washable cotton, hand wash gently in cool water and dry flat. Remove tassels and beads if unsure. For delicate fibers or metallic threads, spot clean and avoid machine washing.

How do I ensure all motifs are the same size?

Block each motif individually to the same measurements, pinning petals and scallops in identical positions. Keep tension consistent and work with the same hook and yarn batches when possible.

Can I make the motifs larger or smaller?

Yes—use a thicker yarn and larger hook to increase motif size, or a thinner yarn and smaller hook to decrease size. Adjust motif count to fit your bed accordingly.

Is the join-as-you-go method necessary?

Join-as-you-go makes assembly faster and cleaner for this pattern, but you can also sew motifs together with a mattress stitch or whip stitch. Joining during last rounds provides a stronger, flatter seam.