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Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern

Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern
4.7★ Rating
10-12 Hours Time Needed
3.8K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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Slow & Steady

A 10+ hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern

This long Christmas runner is a layered motif design composed of scalloped lace medallions, three-dimensional jingle bells, sculpted ribbon bows, clustered berries and raised holly leaves. Finished in warm gold, deep red and evergreen shades, each repeat is richly textured and highly dimensional. The motif repeats allow you to lengthen or shorten the runner to fit any table. The pattern uses worsted weight yarn and common crochet techniques, with focused shaping and surface detail to create a luxurious holiday centerpiece.

Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The runner is constructed from separate motifs (bell clusters, bows, leaves, small flowers and round medallions) that are joined with an open lace joining round, then edged with a scalloped picot border. The instructions include detailed shaping rounds and assembly notes to ensure a flat, stable finished piece.

Why You'll Love This Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it turns ordinary yarn into a richly textured, heirloom holiday runner full of depth and warmth. The sculpted bells and bows are particularly satisfying — they pop off the runner and create beautiful shadows in festive lighting. I also appreciate that you can lengthen or shorten the runner by adding or removing motif repeats so it fits any table perfectly.

Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely love how customizable this runner is — you can easily change the color palette to match your holiday decor, switching the gold for silver or the red for berry pink for a softer look.

I often make the same motif in two colorways so I can swap them out each season; you could also work fewer motifs for a short centerpiece or many repeats for a full-length dining table. Try using a smaller hook for a tighter, denser runner or a slightly larger hook for a more lacy, drapey feel.

I also enjoy adding metallic embroidery along bell rims or using variegated yarn for the inner bell cups to create subtle tonal shifts. Don’t be afraid to personalize with beads or tiny bells for extra jingle — just secure them well if the runner will be handled often.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs and uneven joins; always mark the first stitch of each round ✗ Using a hook too large results in loose fabric where stuffing or shaping will show through; work slightly tighter than usual for decorative motifs ✗ Not blocking motifs before assembly makes joining difficult and leads to a wavy finished runner; steam or wet block each motif flat ✗ Joining motifs sloppily without pinning causes uneven spacing; pin and baste motifs first, then sew securely ✗ Failing to count stitches on textured rounds with clusters or shells leads to math errors; recount after each increase/decrease round ✗ Rushing the 3D bell shaping and not stuffing slightly before finishing causes flat bells; stuff lightly as you shape the rim ✗ Neglecting to weave in tails inside hollow motifs will create visible lumps later; weave ends neatly and trim close to work

Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern

Create a stunning, heirloom-quality Christmas table runner featuring 3D jingle bells, sculpted bows, holly leaves, berries and an elegant lace medallion join. This long runner is worked in separate decorative motifs and assembled into a continuous festive centerpiece with rich gold, red and green highlights.

Advanced 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Long Jingle Bell and Ribbon Christmas Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight yarn (#4), approximately 200-250g in gold/tan (main bell and lace color)
  • 02
    150-200g in deep red (bows and inner bell cups)
  • 03
    80-100g in cream/ivory (medallion background and small flowers)
  • 04
    80-100g in leaf green (holly leaves and sprigs)
  • 05
    Small amounts (30-50g total) in dark cranberry and rust for berries and accent flowers

— Tools Required

  • 01
    3.5mm (E) crochet hook for main work
  • 02
    3.0mm (D) hook for tighter details and bell cups (optional)
  • 03
    Tapestry/yarn needle for sewing and finishing
  • 04
    Blocking pins and blocking mat or towel
  • 05
    Stitch markers (at least 6-8)
  • 06
    Scissors
  • 07
    Optional: small stuffing or fiberfill for lightly filling bell rims and 3D berries
  • 08
    Optional: small bit of craft cardboard or felt for bell base stabilization (if desired)
  • 09
    Optional: fabric glue for securing tiny ends

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— Notes & Gauge :

Info :

Pattern uses US crochet terms. Work tightly for sculpted motifs so shapes hold. Gauge is approx 5 sc = 1 inch in single crochet when worked tightly using 3.5mm hook; motifs are blocked to final size. Runner pictured measures approximately 14 x 72 inches (35 x 183 cm) as shown with 6 repeats; adjust number of repeats to change length.

Info :

Each runner repeat is composed of: one central medallion base, three bell units (two side bells and one central smaller bell), one sculpted bow (two halves seamed and gathered), three small cluster flowers, 4 holly leaves, 6 small berries and connecting lace arches. Make as many repeats as needed and join with the Lace Joining rounds below.

— Round-by-Round: Medallion Base (Make 6 motifs or more as needed) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 7 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 8 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 9-12 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Info :

Change to cream/ivory for the medallion background at this point if you want a lighter contrast. Use a 3.0mm hook for tighter, flatter rounds if preferred.

Round 13 :

(5 sc, 1 dc in next st) x 8 around (48) — work evenly placing the dc every sixth st to begin texturing

Round 14 :

(1 sc in each sc, 1 shell (5 dc) around each dc from previous round) resulting in 8 shells separated by sc bands (48 + shell texture)

Round 15 :

1 sc in each st around working 5 sc across each shell top to maintain balance (48)

Round 16 :

(3 sc, ch3, 3 sc) in every 6th stitch to form small raised arches (48 spaces with arches)

Round 17 :

Working into ch3 sps: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) in each ch3 sp — creates lacy petals around center (48 petal clusters)

Round 18 :

1 sc in each st around to even the surface and prepare for outer scallop (48)

Round 19 :

(*ch3, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, ch3, 5 dc shell in next st*) repeat around to create looped ring; adjust to fit 8 larger loops (8 large loops)

Round 20 :

In each large loop work: sl st, ch3, (dc, dc, picot, dc, dc), ch3, sl st into loop to create ornate scallops (approx 8 scallops evenly spaced)

Info :

Block the medallion flat before attaching any 3D pieces. Pin each scallop out so shapes are even and consistent. This also makes the lace joining round match evenly with neighboring motifs.

Round 21 :

Join a contrasting edge color (gold/tan) and work 1 sc in each st around (48) to create a defined edge

Round 22 :

(1 sc, ch4, sk 2 sts) x around to form chain-loop border aligning with scallops (12-16 loops depending on spacing)

Round 23 :

Into each ch4 loop work (sc, picot, sc) to create small raised beads around the medallion (final decorative strobe)

Info :

Fasten off and weave ends. Make the number of medallions required for your desired runner length. The sample photo uses 6 medallions joined in a straight row.

— Bell Cup (Make 18 bells total; 3 per medallion) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in magic ring (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Info :

Switch to golden/tan yarn for the bell outer skin at Round 5. The inner cup will be worked in red later to create the deep interior.

Round 6 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Round 7 :

(4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around (36)

Round 9 :

(5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 10 :

1 sc in each st around (42)

Round 11 :

(6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 12-15 :

1 sc in each st around (48) — build height of bell outer shell

Info :

At Round 12 begin to shape the bell rim: optional slip a ring of contrasting yarn inside to create depth. Work tightly to keep the bell retaining a cup shape.

Round 16 :

(1 sc, ch2, sk1) repeat around to form evenly spaced chain loops that will become the bell opening edge (approx 48 chain loops)

Round 17 :

Into each chain loop work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to form a scalloped rim and slight flare (final circumference varies ~48 scallops)

Round 18 :

Fasten off outer shell leaving long tail for attaching to medallion. Lightly steam-block into a shallow cup shape.

Info :

Create the inner bell cup (red) by joining yarn to the inside top of the outer shell: work 6 sc in magic ring, increase to 30 over Rounds 2-5, then 3-5 rounds even to create the inner cup depth. Fasten off and sew into the outer shell with slip-stitching or whip-stitching for a nested look.

— Small Inner Bell Cup (Make 18) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 6-7 :

1 sc in each st around (30)

Info :

Fasten off leaving long tail to sew into outer bell. Place this cup inside outer cup and baste at three points before final sewing so it sits deep enough to show the red rim from the outside.

— Bell Rim Detail and Painted Trim (Optional) :

Round 1 :

Join gold/tan yarn at bell rim edge and work (sl st, ch2) around to prepare surface for raised trim

Round 2 :

Work reverse single crochet (crab stitch) around rim for a raised, corded edge (48)

Info :

Use a smaller hook to tighten the rim if you want a crisp rolled edge. Optionally highlight with a metallic embroidery thread or fabric paint once assembled.

— Bow (Make 6 full bows; each bow = two halves) :

Bow Half Round 1 :

Ch 21, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (20)

Bow Half Round 2 :

Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (20)

Bow Half Round 3 :

Ch1, turn, (sc3tog over first 3 sts to shape tip), sc to last 3 sts, sc3tog over last 3 sts (16)

Bow Half Round 4 :

Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (16)

Bow Half Round 5 :

Ch1, turn, (sc2tog, sc to last 2, sc2tog) (14)

Bow Half Round 6 :

Ch1, turn, sc in each st across (14)

Bow Half Round 7 :

Ch1, turn, (sc in next 2 sts, dec) repeat across to shape arch (approx 10)

Info :

Each half is worked flat and blocked. Join two halves together by matching center rows and slip-stitching across center 4-6 stitches. Pull the center tightly and wrap a short length of yarn to gather and form the knot of the bow. Sew the bow to medallion securing beneath the bells.

Bow Half Round 8 :

Fasten off leaving long tail. Make second half to match. Repeat for each bow required.

— Bow Knot (Center) :

Round 1 :

Ch 6, sl st to join to work in the round, ch1, 8 sc around (8)

Round 2 :

1 sc in each st around (8)

Round 3 :

Fasten off leaving long tail; wrap center to gather bow and stitch through back to secure knot

Info :

To give bows a plush look you can couch a thin strip of interfacing or felt in the middle before wrapping the knot for stability. Use contrasting red for dramatic effect.

— Holly Leaf (Make 24 leaves) :

Leaf Round 1 :

Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (11)

Leaf Round 2 :

Ch1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc across until last st, 2 sc in last st (13)

Leaf Round 3 :

Ch1, turn, sc across (13)

Leaf Round 4 :

Ch1, turn, (sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog) to shape (11)

Leaf Round 5 :

Ch1, turn, sc across and work 3 dc cluster at tip to create pointed shape (11 + tip cluster)

Leaf Round 6 :

Along one side work picots spaced 2 sts apart to create serrated edge, then sl st across to base to fasten off

Info :

Work leaves in green, steam lightly and shape with blocking pins to give them a natural curve. Add surface veins by backstitching with single crochet in a slightly darker green through the center of leaf if desired.

— Cluster Flower (Make 12 clusters; each cluster = 6 small blossoms) :

Blossom Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Blossom Round 2 :

(ch2, 3 dc) in each st around, sl st to join to form 6 petals (6 petals)

Blossom Round 3 :

Into each petal work (sl st, ch3, 3 dc, picot, sl st) to puff out the petal; fasten off (6 puffed petals)

Info :

Make 6 small blossoms and sew them into a tight circular cluster. Sew cluster to medallion center above the bells for a raised floral accent. Optionally add a French knot or small bobble in the center using a contrasting color.

— Berry Bobble (Make 36 small berries) :

Round 1 :

6 sc in mr (6)

Round 2 :

6 inc (12)

Round 3 :

1 sc in each st around (12)

Round 4 :

Work 3 rounds of bobble stitch: (yarn over, insert, pull up loop x4 and close) repeat around to get textured berry surface then fasten off leaving tail for sewing

Info :

Stuff lightly with a tiny fluff of fiberfill before closing to keep the berry round. Sew berries in clusters of three between bells and near bow centers as shown.

— Small Accent Flower (Make 12) :

Round 1 :

8 sc in mr (8)

Round 2 :

(ch2, 3 dc) in each st around to make 8 small petals (8 petals)

Round 3 :

Sl st into each petal base and fasten off leaving long tail to sew to medallion

Info :

Sew a tiny bead or French knot to each flower center to mimic pollen and add dimension. Use cream or light gold yarn for contrast on red background.

— Leaf Sprig and Small Decorative Elements :

Sprig Row 1 :

Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across (11)

Sprig Row 2 :

Ch1, turn, sc in first 3 sts, hdc, dc, hdc, sc in remaining sts (11)

Info :

Make short sprigs by decreasing length and use them as filler between bells and bows. Use BLO on the base round to create a raised stem line.

— Lace Joining Round (Join medallions into runner) :

Round 1 :

Lay two blocked medallions right sides up and align outer edge scallops. Join with slip-stitch through alternating scallop picots across adjacent motifs to form a continuous seam; aim for even tension so the runner lies flat

Round 2 :

Between joined motifs, work ch5 arches: sl st into join, ch5, skip next join bar, sl st into next join to create a laddered arch (create same number of arches as scallops to keep symmetry)

Round 3 :

Into each ch5 arch work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to create a lacy bridge between motifs (arches become decorative loops)

Info :

Work joining on a flat surface with pins every 1-2 inches to maintain alignment. Adjust ch counts for arches if your medallion scallops are tighter or looser depending on blocking.

Round 4 :

Along the long center seam (the inside of the runner) work 1 sc between each bridge and add small ch3 picots every other st for additional decorative texture (keeps runner stable)

— Scalloped Edge (Final Border Around Entire Runner) :

Round 1 :

With gold/tan yarn join at any outside edge point and work 1 sc in each st and 3 sc in each outer shell to create a continuous edge (total st count varies with number of motifs)

Round 2 :

(ch3, sl st in same st, skip 2, sl st in next st) repeat around to form chain loop border for scallopes

Round 3 :

Into each loop work (sc, 5 dc, sc) to form bold scallops around entire runner (scallops equal number of outer loops)

Round 4 :

Finish with reverse single crochet (crab stitch) around outermost edge for a corded finish; fasten off and weave ends

Info :

When edging around seams and junctions, absorb slight irregularities by adding or omitting a slip stitch in inconspicuous places. Block once again after edging to set the scallops and ensure runner lays flat.

— Assembly Order & Attachment Points :

Info :

For each medallion: position three bells across lower half of medallion — two side bells slightly angled outward and one smaller bell centered above or between them. Place the bow above the central bell, with the bow knot centered on the medallion axis. Arrange leaves and berries symmetrically around the bells and bow. Use tapestry needle to sew each 3D component to the medallion through the base stitches and into the medallion body so attachments remain secure.

Info :

Sew clusters of berries (three each) between bell collars and bow knot. Sew small accent flowers into negative spaces to fill gaps. Use small, even stitches and tie knots on the underside of the medallion so no loose ends show on the decorative surface.

— Optional Surface Embroidery & Metallic Highlights :

Info :

For a festive finish, use a thin metallic thread or embroidery floss to couch a highlight around bell rims and bow folds. Use small bar stitches or a running stitch to catch the metallic thread into fabric; this adds a subtle shimmer without weighing down the runner.

Info :

For delicate veins on leaves use a darker green embroidery thread and backstitch the center line, then add tiny lateral stitches for veinlets. These small details elevate the overall realism and make decorations pop under warm lighting.

— Final Finishing :

Info :

After all motifs are joined and components sewn, give the runner a final blocking: dampen lightly, pin into exact final shape, and allow to dry completely. Weave in any remaining tails and lightly steam to flatten and set. Optionally add a thin fabric backing or lightweight interfacing to protect table surfaces from yarn dyes or abrasion.

Info :

Store runner flat or gently rolled to avoid creasing. Spot clean with a damp cloth and avoid machine washing to preserve 3D shapes.

Assembly Instructions

  • Attach each bell to its medallion by aligning the bell outer shell rim with the medallion outer scallop area. Pin bell in place, then sew through the bell rim and medallion rounds 19-23 securing with small whip stitches; hide knots under a bell lip.
  • Position the bow centered above the central bell and sew the two bow halves together at the center seam (Bow Half Round 7) before wrapping and stitching the knot (Bow Knot Round 1-3). Secure the finished bow to the medallion at medallion Rounds 14-16 so it slightly overlaps the bell tops.
  • Sew clusters of 6 small blossoms (Cluster Flower) into the medallion center using long tails from Blossom Round 3; baste cluster by hand then stitch from the underside to minimize visible sew lines.
  • Arrange holly leaves (Leaf Round series) in pairs or quads around the bells, sewing each leaf base to medallion Rounds 16-18. Pin and adjust curvature before fully stitching to maintain a lifelike leaf arch.
  • Attach berry bobbles (Berry Bobble Round 1-4) in clusters of three between bells and next to bow centers. Use long tails to stitch through multiple layers of stitches for a secure attachment.
  • Join medallions using the Lace Joining Round series; pin adjoining scallops and baste lightly, then slip-stitch through picots and ch loops to create a uniform seam. Finish seam by working the bridge arches (Lace Joining Round 2-3).
  • Once all motifs are joined, work the Scalloped Edge series around the entire outer border, evenly spacing shells and blocking after completion to set shape.
  • Weave all tails into the underside or inside 3D pieces. Give the runner a final wet or steam block to flatten and set stitches, then allow to dry completely before using.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to avoid counting errors and maintain proper shaping
  • 💡Stuff 3D elements very lightly — bells should be shallow cups, not fully stuffed spheres; too much stuffing will distort shape
  • 💡Block every motif flat before joining to achieve an even, professional-looking seam; pin scallops carefully to match neighbors
  • 💡Maintain consistent tension throughout the project; too tight creates stiff motifs and too loose creates sagging or uneven joins
  • 💡When sewing pieces together, use a high-quality tapestry needle and yarn tail that matches the working yarn for nearly invisible seams
  • 💡Pin all pieces in position before final sewing to ensure proper placement and symmetry; eyeball the center line for alignment
  • 💡Work lace joining rounds on a flat surface using a grid or ruler to keep repeats straight and prevent runner from curving
  • 💡For a durable runner, consider adding a lightweight fabric backing sewn around the edge after blocking to protect the table and stabilize motifs

This jingle bell and ribbon runner transforms simple yarn into a festive, dimensional centerpiece perfect for holiday tables. Each medallion and bell is a small bit of holiday magic that comes together to form a luxurious runner you'll be proud to display. The textured bows, clustered berries and scalloped edge are wonderfully tactile and irresistible to touch. Enjoy every stitch of this seasonal project — it makes a beautiful gift or a treasured family heirloom. 🎄✨

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this runner?

Based on the specified materials and hook size, each medallion is approximately 12 inches wide; the pictured runner with 6 medallions measures roughly 14 x 72 inches. Adjust the number of repeats to change length.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes — you can use other yarn weights, but adjust the hook size accordingly (usually 1-2 sizes smaller than yarn recommendation for crisp motifs). Remember this changes the final size and number of stitches in lace rounds.

Do I need to block motifs?

Yes. Blocking each motif before assembly is essential for even joins and a flat finished runner. Pin scallops and steam or wet-block to set shapes.

How much stuffing will I need for 3D elements?

Only small amounts of fiberfill are needed — about a teaspoon per bell rim and a pinch per berry. Total stuffing required for entire runner is minimal (under 50g).

Can I make the bells sturdier?

Yes — for extra rigidity, insert a thin disc of felt or craft cardboard into the base of the bell before sewing the inner cup. This helps bells hold shape but is optional for a softer look.

How should I wash the runner?

Spot clean with a damp cloth. Avoid machine washing to preserve 3D shapes. If necessary, gently hand wash and reshape, then air dry flat pinned to maintain form.

Can I shorten or lengthen the runner?

Absolutely — add or remove medallion repeats to achieve the desired length. The lace joining rounds make it easy to connect motifs in a straight continuous line.

What is the best way to secure metallic thread highlights?

Couch metallic thread by stitching it down with matching yarn or use small running stitches; avoid pulling tight to prevent puckering.