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Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern

Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern
3.9★ Rating
10-12 Hours Time Needed
2.2K Made This
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Advanced Level

Designed for experienced crocheters, these patterns involve intricate designs and complex techniques to challenge and inspire.

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Slow & Steady

A 10+ hour project—great for savoring the process over several sessions.

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Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

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About This Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates the pictured Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner made from small motifs joined into a long strip. Each repeat includes a bold layered poinsettia with two tiers of red petals, layered dark-green leaves, a cluster of faux-pearl center beads and a delicate cream crochet medallion framing each end. The runner is constructed from individual motif units assembled with a lacey scalloped border for a finished, elegant look.

Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The pattern uses mercerized cotton thread (size 10) to achieve crisp petal definition and delicate lace edges. Assembly instructions show how to join motifs to form a runner of any length and how to add the pearl centers cleanly.

Why You'll Love This Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because it combines the precision of fine thread lacework with sculptural floral elements that really stand out on a holiday table. The layered petals and leaves create beautiful depth, and the cream lace medallions give the runner a vintage, heirloom quality. I also appreciate how customizable it is—you can lengthen the runner by adding motifs or change colors for different seasons.

Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I love how this runner lends itself to creative customization—I often imagine the same motif worked in soft neutrals or jewel tones for different seasons. You can swap the red for burgundy or pink to change the mood entirely.

I also recommend experimenting with bead types and sizes; smaller seed beads give a subtle sparkle while larger pearls make a bold center. Try using variegated greens for the leaves to mimic the color shifts in the photo for extra depth.

For a dramatic table runner of different length, add extra motifs or alternate a plain cream medallion between poinsettias for a spaced look. I find the runner looks especially beautiful when blocked with petals slightly cupped so the lights catch their texture.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers when working rounds quickly leads to lost round starts and irregular motifs; always mark the beginning of rounds. ✗ Not blocking motifs before assembly can make joining difficult and uneven; block to shape and flatten each motif first. ✗ Pulling yarn edges tightly during joining will distort motifs; ease joins gently and pin motifs to match points. ✗ Using too large a hook for cotton thread makes petals floppy and indistinct; match hook to the yarn weight for crisp detail. ✗ Overstuffing bead clusters or adding heavy beads can pull the center down; use lightweight faux-pearl beads and secure them sparingly. ✗ Failing to weave in ends before assembly creates bulky seams; bury tails neatly and trim close for a flat finish.

Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern

A festive, elegant table runner featuring layered red poinsettia motifs, dark green leaves and delicate cream lace medallions. Each motif is richly textured with layered petals and pearl centers, joined edge-to-edge to form a long runner. Perfect for holiday centerpieces or special occasion tables, this pattern creates a luxurious handmade accent using fine cotton thread and careful assembly.

Advanced 10-12 Hours

Materials Needed for Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Mercerized cotton thread size 10 (fine crochet thread) approximately 250-300g in red (main poinsettia color)
  • 02
    Mercerized cotton thread size 10 approximately 120-150g in dark green (leaf color; variegated green suggested)
  • 03
    Mercerized cotton thread size 10 approximately 180-220g in cream/ivory (lace medallions and border)
  • 04
    Small amount (10-20g) of brown or rust for petal shading if using variegated details
  • 05
    Pearl bead centers: sets of 6-8mm faux pearl beads, about 60 beads total for a 6-motif runner (6-8 beads per flower)

— Tools Required

  • 01
    1.5mm to 1.75mm steel crochet hook (US size 7 to 5) depending on thread tension (recommend 1.75mm for size 10 thread)
  • 02
    Optional 2.0mm hook for joining or loose tension
  • 03
    Yarn/tapestry needle for weaving ends and sewing beads
  • 04
    Small sharp scissors
  • 05
    Blocking pins and foam blocking board or towel
  • 06
    Thin measuring tape or ruler
  • 07
    Stitch markers (at least 6-8) to mark round starts and petal points
  • 08
    Lightweight faux-pearl beads (6-8mm) and fine beading needle
  • 09
    Optional: small curved needle for sewing motifs together invisibly
  • 10
    Optional: fabric glue for reinforcing bead knots (use sparingly)

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— Overview :

Info :

This pattern is written for size 10 mercerized cotton thread and a 1.75mm hook. Each motif unit consists of a cream medallion base, a red layered poinsettia with two petal tiers and green leaves, and a small red filler flower. Motifs are joined edge-to-edge and finished with a scalloped cream border. The pattern below is broken into sections so you can make any number of repeats to suit your table length.

— Poinsettia Center Medallion (Cream base) :

Round 1 :

With cream thread work mr, ch1, 8 sc into mr, pull ring tight (8)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st around (16)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x8 (24)

Round 4 :

(2 sc, inc) x8 (32)

Round 5 :

(3 sc, inc) x8 (40)

Round 6 :

(4 sc, inc) x8 (48)

Info :

Keep tension even; this medallion forms the stable foundation that will anchor the petals. Block lightly if desired to flatten before attaching petals.

Round 7 :

1 sc in each st around (48)

Round 8 :

1 sc in each st around BLO (48) — this creates a slight ridge for petal attachment

Round 9 :

*Ch3, skip 2, sl st in next, ch3, skip 2, sl st in next* repeat to make 12 loops evenly spaced. (12 loop points)

Info :

These 12 loops will be used as anchor points for petals and small filler motifs. Use stitch markers to mark every loop for consistent petal spacing; this medallion supports both the main petals and secondary decorations.

— Main Petal Tier (Make 8 large petals per motif) :

Info :

Work petals in red from the center outward. Each petal is worked around a chain loop anchored to the marked loop on the medallion. Make 8 large petals evenly spaced around the center. Follow the petal rounds below; repeat for each petal.

Round 1 :

At marked loop ch1, join red with sl st, ch2 (counts as hdc), 1 hdc in same loop, ch1, 2 hdc in same loop (creates small fan) — 1 petal foundation made

Round 2 :

Turn work toward petal. Ch3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in next sp, ch1, 3 dc in same sp, sl st to base to join forming a rounded tip (7 dc with small ch spacing)

Round 3 :

Working in FLO of last round for texture: sl st to center of petal base, ch2, (hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) all in same stitch to build curve (7 stitches total with tr center)

Round 4 :

Ch1, in back of petal chain: (sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc) around petal edge to create scalloped shaping (7 sts symmetrical)

Round 5 :

Ch2, (fpdc around previous round tr, dc in dc, hdc in hdc) working back toward base to add volume (7 sts) — do not fasten off

Round 6 :

Slip stitch back to medallion and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing if you prefer to sew petals down instead of crocheting directly onto the medallion. Each finished petal should measure approximately 3.25-3.75 inches long with thread and hook specified.

Info :

Work petals with consistent tension so all petals match in length and curvature. If petals curl too much, adjust by adding an extra dc or hdc on the outer edge, or block lightly with pins to shape the point.

— Secondary Petal Tier (Top Layer) (Make 8 smaller petals) :

Info :

These smaller petals sit between main petals, slightly elevated and offset to give the full layered look. Work them in a darker shade of red (or same red for a single hue) and attach between main petals onto alternate medallion loops.

Round 1 :

Join red (shade B) on an alternate loop, ch1, 6 sc into loop (6)

Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x3 (9)

Round 3 :

Ch2, (hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) across the outer edge to make a pointed petal (5 stitches across plus turning chains)

Round 4 :

Work a reverse picot or small loop at tip: ch3, sl st into first of chain to form a small tip point, then sl st back to base and fasten off (neat tip keeps top tier distinct)

Info :

Place the small petals so they peek from beneath the main petals. Attach either with sewing using the long tail or by slip stitching through medallion loops for extra security.

— Leaf Units (Make 8 leaves per motif) :

Info :

Leaves are worked in dark green and placed in pairs around the base of each main petal to create the lush look. Work two sizes: larger outer leaves and smaller inner leaves for depth. All leaves are worked from the medallion outward.

Leaf Round 1 :

Join green at a chosen medallion sp between petal anchors, ch1, 8 sc into sp (8)

Leaf Round 2 :

(1 sc, inc) x4 (12)

Leaf Round 3 :

Ch2, (hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc) working in next sts to form the leaf spine; ch1, sl st back to base (5 textured stitches)

Leaf Round 4 :

Work fpdc along the edge of the leaf spine (fpdc, dc, hdc, sc, sc) to create a raised rib; fasten off leaving a tail for sewing

Info :

Use two shades of green or a variegated green to mimic the tonal changes visible in the photo. Stagger leaves so that larger leaves are set slightly outward and smaller ones tuck near the center.

— Small Red Filler Flower (Make 4 per motif) :

Round 1 :

With red join at small medallion loop, mr, ch1, 6 sc into ring (6)

Round 2 :

Inc in each st (12)

Round 3 :

(1 sc, inc) x6 (18)

Round 4 :

*Ch3, sl st in next st* repeat to create small petals (6 loops), fasten off

Info :

These small flowers sit near the cream medallion edges and fill gaps between poinsettias when motifs are joined. Use a slightly tighter tension to keep them small and neat.

— Poinsettia Bead Center :

Info :

Use 6-8 faux-pearl beads per flower. Thread beads on a short length of sewing thread or thin yarn. Position beads in the central hole of the cream medallion and secure with several passes through the medallion center; tie knots on the back and dab with a tiny drop of fabric glue to secure if desired.

Round 1 :

Bring long tail from medallion center to front, thread 6-8 beads, arrange beads in a tight cluster and anchor by sewing through the center several times; hide knots on the reverse side of medallion

Info :

Position beads slightly raised so petals curve up around them. If using larger beads, reduce bead count to maintain proportion.

— Cream Outer Medallion Extension (Completes motif edge) :

Round 1 :

With cream attached at medallion outer rounds, ch1, 1 sc in each st around (48)

Round 2 :

(3 sc, ch3, skip 2) x12 to create decorative eyelet loops positioned around the circle

Round 3 :

Work around loops: In each ch3 loop work (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc) to create small scallops (6 sts per scallop) — results in 12 scallops

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st and scallop st, smoothing transitions so that scallops sit flat; fasten off leaving long tail for joining

Info :

This outer cream round frames the red and green cluster and creates the decorative points that visually separate connected motifs when the runner is joined.

— Joining Motifs Into a Runner :

Info :

You can arrange motifs in a straight strip mirrored so the scalloped cream edges align. The pictured runner shows motifs joined by overlapping the cream scallops and slip stitching through matching points. Join motifs as you make them, or block all motifs first and join later using whip stitch for invisible seams.

Round 1 :

Place two motifs right sides together, align scallop points. Insert hook through both motifs at one scallop edge, sl st through both loops to join. Continue sl st along matching scallop sts until motifs are joined along 4-6 points.

Round 2 :

For stronger join, use yarn needle and matching cream tail to whip stitch through both motif edges using small, nearly invisible stitches. Reinforce high-stress joining points with an extra pass.

Round 3 :

When joining a long strip, keep motifs flat and check alignment frequently. Pin motifs together before stitching to maintain straight runner edges.

Info :

To make the runner longer, simply make more motif repeats. For the pictured runner length, assemble 6 motif repeats joined end-to-end with slight overlap of cream scallops.

— Edge Border and Final Scallop (Cream) :

Round 1 :

Once all motifs are joined, edgings are worked around the entire outer edge in cream. Join cream at a convenient point, ch1, sc evenly around inner and outer edges of runner including seams (work approx 1 sc per visible stitch) — maintain even tension.

Round 2 :

(*Ch4, skip 2*, sc in next) repeat to form uniform looped spaces around the outer perimeter. Adjust count so loops sit evenly around scallops and between petal tips.

Round 3 :

In each ch4 loop work (sc, hdc, 5 dc, hdc, sc) to create prominent scallops; where loops align with scalloped medallion edges, work a slightly larger scallop (7 dc) for balanced look.

Round 4 :

1 sc in each st around the inside edge and join with sl st to starting sc. Fasten off and weave in ends neatly to the back.

Info :

Work border with a slightly looser tension than motif bodies so scallops lay flat without puckering; block entire runner after finishing to even out scallops and flatten seams.

— Optional Reinforcement Rows for Stability (If Runner Will Be Handled Frequently) :

Round 1 :

With cream, work one additional round of sc on the wrong side along motif joins to strengthen seams. Insert needle beneath joining stitches and work evenly spaced sc to knit joins together.

Round 2 :

Work a final decorative slip-stitch round on the right side: join cream at a scallop point and sl st into each outermost sc of each scallop to create a neat, slightly raised outline.

Info :

These reinforcement rounds are optional but recommended for table runners that will be moved or stored often; they prevent separation at join points and keep the runner flat.

— Blocking and Finishing :

Info :

Wet block each motif: pin into shape on a foam board or towel, stretching petals gently so they arch slightly upward around bead center, then allow to dry. After all pieces are assembled and border completed, re-block the entire runner to ensure a uniform, flat finish and even scallops.

Round 1 :

Weave in all tails: use yarn needle to bury ends through several motifs to prevent pulling free. Trim ends close but avoid cutting too near knots.

Round 2 :

Sew bead clusters securely and test each bead knot. Dab minute glue if required and allow to dry fully before handling.

Info :

Lay the runner on a table and check for any loose petals; if petals lift unevenly, re-pin and steam-block lightly from the wrong side using a low setting from a distance to avoid flattening beads.

— Sizing & Repeats :

Info :

Each completed motif is approximately 8.5-9 inches in diameter (measured across outer scallops) with the materials specified. The pictured runner uses six motifs for an overall length of approximately 54-56 inches. Add or subtract motifs to reach your desired length.

Round 1 :

To scale motifs up, use a slightly thicker thread and increase hook size by 0.25-0.5mm, maintaining stitch patterns to proportionally enlarge petals and medallion rounds.

Info :

Color variations: use deep burgundy or wine red for the outer petals and a brighter scarlet for the inner tier for richer tonal variation. Variegated green thread for leaves will mimic the subtle shading visible in the photo.

Assembly Instructions

  • Pin motifs in desired order on a flat surface, aligning cream scallops and petal tips before any sewing. Use fine pins to hold motifs and check symmetry along the runner.
  • Join motifs by slip-stitching through matching scallop points: insert hook through both motif loops and sl st together. For stronger joins, follow with an invisible whip stitch using a yarn needle and cream thread.
  • Attach petals and leaves securely: where individual petals are left with tails, sew those tails through the medallion base using small stitches and tie off securely on the back side.
  • Sew clusters of faux-pearl beads into the medallion center: thread beads on a fine beading needle, sew through multiple times from back to front, knot on the reverse and secure with a tiny dab of fabric glue if needed.
  • Work the cream border after motifs are joined; this hides most seam tails. When working border scallops, adjust stitch counts at seams so scallops remain evenly spaced.
  • Weave in all ends to the wrong side: use a yarn needle to bury tails through several stitches, trimming close. Reinforce any weak joins with a second pass of whip stitches.
  • Block the finished runner: pin to shape carefully and allow to dry fully. Recheck bead security after blocking and reinforce any loose stitches.
  • For storage or transport, wrap runner flat with acid-free tissue to protect beads and petals; avoid folding sharply to prevent permanent creases.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of rounds and to mark the 12 primary medallion anchor points to ensure even spacing of petals.
  • 💡Stuffing is not required for this lace runner; however, blocking each motif gently while damp will give petals shape and hold curvature.
  • 💡Choose beads that are lightweight so they sit naturally in the medallion center without pulling down surrounding thread.
  • 💡When joining motifs, keep tension gentle; overly tight joins will pucker scallops and distort overall length.
  • 💡Weave in ends carefully before joining to minimize bulk in seams; trim tails after weaving rather than before.
  • 💡If substituting yarn or thread weights, make a sample motif to test size and appearance before committing to yardage.
  • 💡For cleaner seams, sew motifs with a fine cream thread rather than slip-stitching, especially if runner will be laundered.
  • 💡Always block motifs before joining for best alignment and flatness across the runner.

Completing this Red Poinsettia Cream Lace Table Runner is wonderfully rewarding—each motif joins to form a striking, festive centerpiece. The layered petals and pearl centers give the runner a luxurious handcrafted look that brightens holiday tables. Enjoy the calming rhythm of repeating motifs and the satisfying transformation at assembly. 🧶✨ Display with care and it will become a seasonal heirloom to treasure. 🎁

You ask,

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FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Each motif measures approximately 8.5–9 inches across. The pictured runner uses six motifs for an overall length of about 54–56 inches; add or subtract motifs to change the length.

Can I use a different thread or yarn weight?

Yes. You can use a thicker thread or fine yarn but adjust your hook size accordingly and make a sample motif to determine final scale and yardage.

Do I need to block motifs before joining?

Yes—blocking is recommended. It evens out stitches, flattens scallops and helps petals keep the desired arch for consistent joining.

Are faux-pearl centers required?

No—beads are decorative. You can use seed beads, small buttons, or embroidered French knots depending on desired look and child-safety considerations.

How do I prevent motifs from puckering at joins?

Pin all seams flat before joining, use gentle tension when slip-stitching, and consider using a whip stitch with cream thread for a smoother, stronger join.

How much thread will I need?

Approximately 250–300g red, 120–150g dark green and 180–220g cream for a 6-motif runner. Make a sample motif to calculate yarn use for different sizes.

Can I machine wash this runner?

Hand-wash gently in cool water and lay flat to dry to protect beads and preserve the shape; machine washing is not recommended for delicate cotton thread and beadwork.

Can motifs be made in other colors?

Absolutely. Try white petals for a winter white variant, or pinks and greens for a spring runner. The motif structure adapts well to different color palettes.