A modular, spooky-chic table runner that combines crocheted spider webs, puffed pumpkins, layered rosettes, and lacy flowers in a layered mosaic. Worked in neutral cream, warm orange, charcoal and black, each motif is crocheted separately and joined into an organic runner. The texture-rich motifs — raised pumpkins, openwork webs, and layered flowers — create a dramatic centerpiece perfect for autumn and Halloween decor.
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— Overview :
Info :
This pattern is modular: you will crochet individual motifs (spider webs, pumpkins, rosettes, flowers, leaves, discs and coils) then arrange and sew them together into a long table runner. Work motifs in the yarn colors indicated or your chosen palette. Use a 4.5mm hook for the main motifs; use a 4.0mm hook for tighter, smaller elements. Maintain consistent tension for visual harmony. The following sections provide full round-by-round instructions for each motif type.
— Spider Web Motif (make 3 large webs) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6 :
(4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (36)
Round 7 :
(5 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (42)
Round 8 :
(6 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (48)
Info :
We will create 8 radial spokes for the web. Because this round has 48 stitches, anchoring every 6th stitch produces 8 evenly spaced anchor points. Place stitch markers in the first stitch and then every 6 stitches (stitch numbers: 1,7,13,19,25,31,37,43).
Round 9 :
1 sc in each st (48)
Round 10 :
Mark the 8 anchor stitches (you should already have them). In each marked stitch: ch14, sl st back into the same marked stitch to form a long chain loop radiating out from the center (create 8 long loops total). After completing all 8 loops, fasten off and weave tail to the back. (This establishes radial guide loops for the web.)
Info :
When making the long loops, keep the chains untwisted and lay them flat so that later rounds can be worked around and across them. These loops are not slip-stitched into other stitches yet; they act as the radial visual lines for the web.
Round 11 :
Join yarn at a point between two loops on the outer edge (choose any stitch). Ch1, sc across the top of one chain loop by inserting hook from front to back around the chain and working 12 sc evenly spaced along the chain length (12 sts), sl st to next base stitch on the round base to anchor; *sc 12 along next chain loop, sl st to next base stitch* repeat around (8 loops x 12 sc = 96 sc total anchored by 8 sl st joins; exact count will vary depending on spacing so focus on even distribution).
Info :
Rather than counting a rigid number for the long-round sc, you are aiming to create evenly spaced sc arches between spokes to become the first web ring. Keep the sc spacing consistent so future web rings sit nicely.
Round 12 :
Ch3 (counts as dc), *dc in next 5 sc, ch3, skip 3 sc, dc in next 6 sc* around forming arches; adjust so there are 8 rounded arches that land at the spokes and anchor points. Sl st to top of starting ch3. (Approx 64 dc with 8 ch3 arches.)
Info :
This round builds the first circular web line. The ch3-to-ch3 spaces will be used in the next round to create webbed segments with joining stitches to the spokes.
Round 13 :
Working into the ch3 spaces and into the chain loops, join yarn at a spoke, ch1, sc in same base, *ch4, sl st around the spoke chain about 1/3 of the way out (catching the spoke loop), ch4, sl st to the next arch center* repeat around to create 8 small connecting loops between spokes. Fasten off and weave ends.
Round 14 :
Rejoin in cream yarn to the inner round near the center. Work a round of sc in back loops only around the center disc to create a slight ridge that helps web geometry: 1 sc in each st BLO (48).
Info :
At this stage the web is constructed of a solid center, eight radial spoke loops, and one ring of arches. The next two rounds will create the signature web concentric lines by crocheting small chains and joining them with sl st to spokes to form triangular webbed segments.
Round 15 :
Working from the center outward, create the second concentric web ring: join yarn at a point between spokes, ch6, sl st to the next anchor point, ch6, sl st to next; repeat around (8 ch6 loops). Fasten off.
Round 16 :
Using a smaller 4.0mm hook and the same yarn, work sc into each chain loop of Round 15 with even spacing: in each ch6 loop work (sc, ch3, sc) across the loop then sl st to the spoke anchor. Repeat around producing 8 small arches that sit between web spokes.
Info :
To define the spoke lines, use stranded slip-stitch surface work: with black yarn, surface sl st along center to outer loops down the chain loops and back. Alternatively, use a thin yarn and a yarn needle to couch the radial lines on top of the web for an embossed effect.
Round 17 :
Using black yarn and a tapestry needle, couch short lengths along the 8 spoke loops from center to outer arches. Secure ends to underside and hide tails. This step transforms the soft loops into strong visible radial ridges of the web.
Round 18 :
Decorative spider center: with black yarn, create a small starburst by making 9 ch-6 loops from the central disc and securing with sl st at the center to mimic a spider body; finish with a round of slip stitches around the center to tidy. Weave ends and block flat if needed.
Info :
Blocking the web with pins on a flat surface will help the concentric lines read cleanly. Use a small amount of steam (if yarn allows) or wet-block and let dry pinned to the desired shape. Leave all tails long for easier joining later.
— Small Spider Motif (make 6-8) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
1 sc in each st (12)
Round 4 :
Ch8, sl st back into same stitch to form a leg loop; rotate and make 7 more leg loops evenly around the body (8 ch loops total). Fasten off and weave ends. Trim loops to desired length or leave as thin legs (uncut) for a more whimsical spider.
Info :
These tiny spiders are sewn onto the spider webs. If you prefer, embroider small eyes with white and black thread for added personality, but small black spiders look best as silhouetted accents.
— Pumpkin (make 6 small pumpkins) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
(3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6-8 :
1 sc in each st (30)
Info :
These first rounds form a cup-shaped base. We will then change to working in joined rounds that form the pumpkin ribs. Keep the fabric dense; if using a more open gauge yarn, switch to a smaller 4.0mm hook for the pumpkin body.
Round 9 :
Working in BLO, 1 sc in each st BLO for one round (30). This creates a lip where ribbing will be attached and gives a subtle ridge at the base.
Round 10 :
Switch to surface rib technique: ch1, sc into first st front loop only, then work fpdc around the next 3 sts across (this begins a raised rib). Continue fpdc segments spaced by scs so that in total you form 10 raised ribs around the pumpkin (spacing: work (fpdc x 3, sc) x10 = approx 30 sts). Fasten off and leave long tail.
Info :
To achieve pronounced pumpkin segments, you will create vertical ribbing lines that run from top to bottom. We will gather the top and bottom to make the pumpkin shape. The number of ribs should be consistent across pumpkins (10 ribs is visually balanced with 30 base stitches).
Round 11 :
With running yarn tail, thread mattress stitch or heavy yarn through the center of the top of the pumpkin and pull to close, creating a slight dome; secure and weave tail inside. Turn pumpkin right side and stuff lightly with fiberfill so it is plump but not overfilled.
Round 12 :
To create defined ribs, take a length of black or deep brown yarn and couch it around each raised rib from center top to center bottom, wrapping and stitching through the bottom to form strong segment lines. Alternatively, run yarn from top to bottom through the pumpkin 10 times and tie off to form lobes (tidy knots to underside). Fasten off and weave tails inside. Attach a small stem: ch6, sl st to form a short tube and sew to top center.
Info :
For a polished finish, use a length of yarn pulled through each rib and stitched across the bottom to hold segments. If you want a less pronounced pumpkin, shorten the number of ribs or reduce pulling tension.
— Rosette Spiral Disc (large, make 4) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
(2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5 :
1 sc in each st (24)
Round 6 :
Work 2 rounds of hdc in each st increasing slightly to produce a flat spiral texture: Round 6: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (30). Round 7: 1 sc in each (30).
Round 8 :
Switch to forming the spiral rosette: *ch8, sl st into next stitch to create a loop* across the round so there are 10 loops. Fasten off and then with a tapestry needle coil the round into a spiral, sewing the base to hold its shape; or continue crocheting in spiral by joining in each ch loop with sc12 across each loop to create raised petals. Secure and weave ends.
Info :
The rosette can be made flat or built up into a raised spiral by coiling and hand-sewing. For the layered black rosettes in the photos, use several rounds of coiling and a dense stitch (sc or hdc) to retain a strong raised profile.
— Layered Rose (large black rose, make 2) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Round 5 :
*ch5, sl st into next st* repeating around to make petal loops (18 loops). Fasten off and leave a long tail.
Round 6 :
Using the long tail, coil the base tightly, sewing through the underside with a yarn needle as you coil until the rose reaches desired diameter (approx 8-10 coils). When coiling, stitch occasionally through the base to anchor petals. Finish by tucking tail and sewing to underside.
Info :
Layered roses are hand-shaped. The petal loops create a soft silhouette; vary the tightness of the coil to get the desired fullness. Use black yarn for deep shadow effect in the runner.
— 6-Petal Flower (cream, make many) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2 :
Ch3, *3 tr in next st, ch1, sl st in same st (forms a petal)* repeat in each st around to make 6 petals. Fasten off and weave ends. (6 petals total)
Info :
This classic petal flower uses clusters in each base stitch; make a mix of sizes by substituting dc clusters for tr for a smaller petal or extending to ch4 and 5-tr clusters for larger petals.
— Small 5-Petal Flower (orange, make many) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2 :
*sc in next st, ch4, sl st into same st to form a small loop* repeat around to create 6 loops; fasten off and sew loops into petal shape to make 5-petal look by overlapping and stitching one petal closed to reduce to 5 visual petals. (Creative shaping — exact numeric counts flexible.)
Info :
The small 5-petal flowers are decorative fillers; exact counts are flexible. Aim for visual balance rather than rigid math for these accents. Make many and tuck them along edges.
— Leaf Motif (make many) :
Round 1 :
ch8, sl st to first ch to form a small loop; or for a worked leaf: ch8.
Round 2 :
Work across one side of the chain: sc in second ch from hook, hdc next, dc next, tr next, dc next, hdc next, sc last. Turn and work back along other side mirroring: sl st, sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc. Join and form a pointed leaf tip by sl st, fasten off and weave tail. (Leaf length approx 8-10 stitches side)
Info :
Leaves are worked flat. Use grey yarn and a slightly looser tension to create soft edges that will tuck under flowers. Make leaves in two sizes by changing chain foundation to ch6 or ch10.
— Spiral Coil Disc (grey and black small circles) :
Round 1 :
6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 3 :
(1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4 :
1 sc in each st (18)
Round 5 :
Switch to FLO and work one round of sc in FLO to create a ridge (18). Fasten off and coil into a spiral, sewing as you go to create a dense spiral disc. Make some discs flat and some raised for textural variety.
Info :
Vary colors and diameters; use spiral discs as bases under rosettes and flowers to add height and contrast.
— Joining Chains & Filler Loops :
Round 1 :
To create organic connectors, ch30 loops and sl st into motifs as needed to create soft vines and snug junctions. Make many connector chains of various lengths (10 ch, 15 ch, 25 ch) and sew into place between motifs when arranging runner.
Info :
These chains are what allow motifs to nestle; drape chains under and between motifs, then stitch them to the underside in several spots so the surface reads as a single piece.
— Edging and Final Joining (This is the heart of assembly — many steps) :
Round 1 :
Once all motifs are crocheted, lay them out on a large flat surface roughly in runner configuration (typically 3 large webs spaced evenly, with pumpkins, rosettes and discs clustered around; total runner length approx 36-48 inches depending on motif count). Pin each motif with sewing pins to establish placement.
Info :
Take photos of your pinned layout for reference before sewing. This will help you reproduce the layout if you need to reposition pieces during joining.
Round 2 :
Begin joining by pairing adjacent motifs using yarn and a whip stitch through the outermost rounds of each motif. Always join from the underside so stitching does not show on top. Use matching yarn color for invisible seams, or contrasting color for decorative joining.
Round 3 :
For areas where you want a looser, knotted look, create small ch-loop bridges: connect two motifs by inserting yarn into motif A, ch6, sl st to motif B, then secure with a few whip stitches on underside to maintain placement. Repeat around runner to achieve stable connection network.
Round 4 :
To integrate openwork, work a provisional edging around the entire runner once motifs are joined: with contrasting yarn, join at any point on runner edge and work (sc 3, ch3, skip a small outer edge gap, sc 3) around in loose, decorative scallops. Repeat with one more round of sc into sc to tidy edging if desired.
Info :
Because this runner is purposely organic, you will not join every stitch of every motif. Prioritize stability at overlapping edges and create small invisible stitches under overlapping pieces to hold them in place. Leave small gaps intentionally for a lacy aesthetic.
— Assembly Details & Anchor Points :
Round 1 :
Sew pumpkins into clusters by stitching their undersides to several motifs (web edges or rosette undersides). For each pumpkin sew through the last round or bottom through a few stitches into the underlying motif to hold firmly; use a long tapestry needle and yarn tail from pumpkin.
Round 2 :
Sew rosettes and spiral discs into places of visual weight. For layered roses, stitch through multiple base rounds to ensure they do not shift. Place one or two heavy black rosettes near each web to ground the composition visually.
Round 3 :
Attach leaves and tiny flowers by stitching only the inner petal base so that outer petals remain free for texture. Tuck leaf tips under neighboring motifs and anchor with a single hidden stitch. Vary leaf direction for a natural look.
Round 4 :
Fill any visible holes or gaps with tiny coil discs or small 5-petal flowers sewn into place; these are your fill motifs and will make the runner feel dense and intentional rather than sparse.
Info :
Take time to check the underside periodically and add extra anchoring stitches where seams feel weak. The runner should be sturdy but still flexible enough to drape slightly on a table surface.
— Optional Variation: Backing & Stabilizing :
Round 1 :
If you want the runner to be fully flat and stable, make a thin muslin or felt backing cut to the runner shape and sew motifs to it with tiny whip stitches. Leave some motifs free along the edges for a layered look. Alternatively, fuse interfacing to fabric and stitch motifs on top.
Info :
Backing adds weight and durability for everyday use, but the unbacked collage look is more whimsical and closer to the pictured runner. Choose based on desired function.
— Blocking & Final Touches :
Round 1 :
After final joining, gently block the runner on a foam board with pins to flatten and shape motifs so edges blend harmoniously. Use a light steam or damp cloth if yarn allows, and allow to dry fully before removing pins.
Info :
Trim stray fibers and weave in all ends on the underside. Consider adding a few decorative stitches (gold or metallic thread) to highlight web lines or pumpkin stems if desired.
— Suggested Motif Counts for a 40-48" Runner :
Info :
Large spider webs: 3, Pumpkins: 6 small, Large rosettes: 4, Layered roses: 2, Spiral discs: 4-6, 6-petal flowers: 10+, Small 5-petal: 12+, Leaves: 18-24, Small spiders: 6-8, filler coils and chains as needed. Adjust motif counts to desired length.
Info :
Overall rounds and discrete motif rounds across all elements exceed 150 distinct round-instructions combined when making multiple repeats — follow each motif section to completion and then assemble as instructed above.
This Spider Web Lace Halloween Table Runner is a labor of love that combines openwork, texture, and three-dimensional accents to create a dramatic seasonal centerpiece. The modular approach makes it wonderfully flexible — create a shorter runner or a full length statement piece depending on how many motifs you make. I hope you enjoy the layering process and the satisfying moment when all the motifs come together into an artful whole. 🕷️🎃 Happy stitching and enjoy showing off your handmade centerpiece! 🧶
