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Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern

Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern
4.0★ Rating
5-7 Hours Time Needed
4.1K Made This
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Intermediate Level

Ideal for those with basic crochet experience, featuring slightly more advanced stitches and techniques to expand your skills.

⏱️

Weekend Treat

Takes 5-7 hours, making it an enjoyable project to finish over a couple of days.

🏡

Cozy Accent

A warm touch for your space that transforms ordinary corners into inviting nooks filled with handmade charm.

🧶 Jump to Pattern ↓

About This Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern

This pattern recreates the pictured table runner comprised of five circular, sunflower-like motifs linked to form an elegant strip. Each motif features a small cream center, a layered sage-green roundwork body, and a scalloped cream petal border. The motifs are bridged by decorative open diamond joins that create a light, airy look while keeping the runner stable on a table. The finished piece balances rustic and refined—perfect for modern farmhouse or neutral decor.

Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern crochet pattern - detailed view of completed project

The design uses worsted-weight cotton for a sturdy, washable runner with crisp stitch definition. The repeatable motif structure makes it easy to expand the runner longer or shorten it for a placemat, and the joining is done as you work the final rounds to keep seams seamless.

Why You'll Love This Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern

I love this pattern because the motifs are striking yet calming—the sage and cream palette creates a soft, natural look that complements wood surfaces beautifully. I enjoy the rhythmic repetition while making each circular motif feel like a small meditative project. The open lace joins give a delicate look without sacrificing structure, and the finished runner makes an immediate cozy upgrade to any table.

Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern step 1 - construction progress Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern step 2 - assembly progress Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern step 3 - details and accessories Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern step 4 - final assembly and finishing

Switch Things Up

I absolutely enjoy how this runner design invites easy customization. I might switch the sage to a dusty terracotta for autumn or a soft blue for a coastal vibe. Changing just one color keeps the structure intact while giving a fresh look.

I also like experimenting with the number of motifs: three motifs make a lovely narrow centerpiece, five makes the pictured runner, and seven or nine give you a long console runner. If you want sturdier texture, I would use a slightly thicker cotton or a smaller hook to make petals tighter.

For extra detail, I sometimes add a slim colored line in sage around the outer edge before doing the final scallop round. You could also embroider a tiny dot at each motif center with a metallic thread for subtle shine. These small changes make a big difference in style while using the same core construction.

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them

✗ Skipping stitch markers at round starts can cause misaligned motifs and inconsistent repeats; mark the first stitch of every round. ✗ Changing color without securing and weaving in ends as you go leads to messy backs; finish color changes neatly or carry yarn where possible. ✗ Not blocking motifs before joining can cause uneven edges and gaps; always wet-block or steam-block flat before assembly. ✗ Working with uneven tension produces wavy motifs; keep consistent tension especially through puff and shell stitches. ✗ Joining motifs inconsistently (spacing or number of connecting stitches) causes the runner to skew; pin motifs carefully and count connection points. ✗ Overstuffing or holding large loops too tight when forming petals distorts their shape; keep petals relaxed and uniform. ✗ Using a hook that is too large for the yarn yields loose fabric where table items might sag; use recommended hook sizes for crisp texture. ✗ Not weaving ends securely at the back may lead to loose joins over time; weave ends under several stitches and knot if necessary.

Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern

Create a beautiful sunburst lace table runner featuring five linked floral motifs in soft sage green and warm cream. This runner showcases layered circular motifs with openwork petals and delicate connecting diamonds—perfect for tabletops, dressers, or a cozy dining setup. The pattern uses basic stitches, puff/shell shaping, and strategic color changes to make an elegant, farmhouse-inspired accent. Ideal for intermediate crocheters who enjoy repetitive motif work and thoughtful finishing.

Intermediate 5-7 Hours

Materials Needed for Sunburst Lace Table Runner Pattern

— Main Fabric

  • 01
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (#4), approximately 300-400g in main accent color (sage green as seen)
  • 02
    Worsted weight cotton or cotton-blend yarn (#4), approximately 350-450g in contrast color (warm cream as seen)
  • 03
    Small amounts (10-20g each) of other neutral shades if adding accent embroidery or trims

— Tools Required

  • 01
    5.0 mm (H) crochet hook for main work (use 4.5 mm if you prefer a tighter fabric)
  • 02
    4.0 mm (G) hook (optional) for tidier edging or smaller motifs
  • 03
    Yarn needle for sewing and weaving ends
  • 04
    Stitch markers (at least 6) to mark round starts and join points
  • 05
    Scissors
  • 06
    Blocking mat and pins for flattening motifs before joining
  • 07
    Tape measure or ruler to check gauge and motif diameter
  • 08
    Optional: small stitch clips or tapestry pins for holding pieces while joining

Progress Tracker

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— Overview :

Info :

This runner is made of five identical circular motifs joined in the last round to form a continuous strip. Each motif has a cream center round, expands into sage rounds for the body, then returns to cream for the lacy petal and connector rounds. Make 5 motifs then work the joining/edging rounds to connect them horizontally. Gauge: one finished motif measures approximately 6.5-7 inches (16.5-18cm) diameter blocked. Adjust hook or yarn weight to change size.

Info :

Abbreviations used throughout: mr, ch, sc, hdc, dc, tr, pc (puff cluster), sl st, inc, sk. Use stitch markers to mark the start of each round. For clarity this pattern repeats the motif instructions for Motif 1 through Motif 5—each motif is identical. Be sure to change colors exactly where noted to achieve the pictured two-tone effect.

— Motif 1 :

Round 1 :

With cream color, make a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as first dc), 11 dc into ring (12)

Round 2 :

Working in back loops of Round 1 if you prefer a little texture: (1 dc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 3 :

(2 dc, inc) x 6 (24)

Info :

At this point the motif center is formed. If you want a more pronounced cream center as in the photo, maintain cream for Round 4 and switch to sage for Round 5. In the pictured runner the cream center is small; we will change to sage on the next round.

Round 4 :

Change to sage green with last yarn-over of previous round, sl st to join if needed, ch 2 (counts as dc), (3 dc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 5 :

(4 dc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 6 :

(5 dc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 7 :

(6 dc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 8 :

1 dc in each stitch around (48)

Info :

Begin forming the structural base for petals. The pattern below groups stitches so that each petal will use a defined ch-3 loop created by a shell; there will be 12 petals around. Keep stitch counts accurate — 48 stitches allow 12 repeats of a 4-stitch grouping.

Round 9 :

*(Sk next 3 sts, 3 dc) in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st*; rep from * to * 11 more times (12 shells with ch-3 loops; work completes around and you will have 12 ch-3 spaces)

Info :

Change to cream yarn for the petal rounds. Join cream into the first ch-3 space with a sl st; fastening color in the chain spaces yields clean, lacy petals.

Round 10 :

With cream, join in first ch-3 sp: ch 1, (5 dc) all in same ch-3 space, sl st into base between this shell and next shell to secure; *sl st into next ch-3 space, ch 1, (5 dc) in ch-3 space, sl st into base*; rep to make 12 tall petals (12 petals)

Info :

Petals are made as clusters of 5 dc to get the fullness seen in the image. Keep stitches loose enough to allow petals to fan slightly. After completing Round 10, arrange petals with fingers and adjust tension if some flare more than others.

Round 11 :

Working behind the petals, ch 3, sl st at the base between two petals to form an arch, *ch 5, sl st into the top of next petal base; rep from * around to create decorative loop arches between petals (12 ch-5 arches)

Round 12 :

Make a decorative scallop: in each petal top work (sc in top dc, ch 2, sc in same top stitch) then sl st into next base to secure; rep around to create a neat scalloped edge (12 scallops)

Info :

Make sure to maintain even tension on ch-5 arches so they’re uniform. This round begins shaping the lacy edge visible in the photo. Block this motif flat before joining for best alignment.

Round 13 :

Edge tidy: 1 sc in each st and chain space around to secure petals and arches, work 1 sc into each ch-5 mid point to keep arches from flaring (approx 84 sc total depending on your tension)

Round 14 :

Optional decorative picot round: *hdc, ch 3, sl st in hdc just made* around working into the top of each scallop to create small picot points (12 picots)

Round 15 :

Fasten off cream, weave ends. If not joining yet, block motif flat and set aside. (No stitch count change)

Info :

Motif 1 complete. Make additional motifs following the exact same 15-round sequence for Motif 2 through Motif 5. For consistent sizing: keep the same hook and tension, and block each motif to identical diameter before joining.

— Motif 2 :

Round 1 :

With cream color, make a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as dc), 11 dc into ring (12)

Round 2 :

(1 dc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 3 :

(2 dc, inc) x 6 (24)

Info :

Change to sage on next round as with Motif 1. Repeat all shaping, petals, arches, and scallops exactly. Keep motifs unjoined for now; blocking first helps precise joining later.

Round 4 :

Change to sage: ch 2 (counts as dc), (3 dc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 5 :

(4 dc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 6 :

(5 dc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 7 :

(6 dc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 8 :

1 dc in each st around (48)

Round 9 :

*(Sk next 3 sts, 3 dc) in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st*; rep around for 12 ch-3 spaces

Info :

Change to cream for petal formation. If you plan to join Motif 2 to Motif 1 now, align petals so the joining points correspond and plan the connector stitches described later.

Round 10 :

With cream: join into first ch-3 sp, ch 1, 5 dc in same ch-3 sp, sl st to secure; *sl st into next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 5 dc in ch-3 sp, sl st to secure*; rep around for 12 petals

Round 11 :

Ch 3 and sl st at base to form arch, *ch 5, sl st into next petal base*; rep around to make 12 ch-5 arches

Round 12 :

Make scallops: in each petal top work (sc, ch 2, sc) and sl st to next base; rep (12 scallops)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st and chain space around to tidy (approx 84 sc)

Round 14 :

Optional picot round: *hdc, ch 3, sl st in hdc* around (12 picots)

Round 15 :

Fasten off and weave ends. Block motif flat for joining.

— Motif 3 :

Round 1 :

With cream color, make a magic ring, ch 2, 11 dc into ring (12)

Round 2 :

(1 dc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 3 :

(2 dc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 4 :

Change to sage: ch 2, (3 dc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 5 :

(4 dc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 6 :

(5 dc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 7 :

(6 dc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 8 :

1 dc in each st around (48)

Round 9 :

*(Sk next 3 sts, 3 dc) in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st*; rep around (12 shells)

Round 10 :

With cream: join into first ch-3 sp, ch 1, 5 dc in ch-3 sp, sl st to secure; rep around for 12 petals

Round 11 :

Ch 3, sl st into base to create a small arch, *ch 5, sl st into next base*; rep around (12 arches)

Round 12 :

Scallops: in each petal top work (sc, ch 2, sc), sl st to next base; rep around (12 scallops)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st and chain space around to finish edge (approx 84 sc depending on tension)

Round 14 :

Optional picot: *hdc, ch 3, sl st in hdc* around (12 picots)

Round 15 :

Fasten off and weave ends. Block before joining.

— Motif 4 :

Round 1 :

With cream color, make a magic ring, ch 2, 11 dc (12)

Round 2 :

(1 dc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 3 :

(2 dc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 4 :

Change to sage: ch 2, (3 dc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 5 :

(4 dc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 6 :

(5 dc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 7 :

(6 dc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 8 :

1 dc in each st around (48)

Round 9 :

*(Sk 3, 3 dc) in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st*; rep around (12 shells)

Round 10 :

With cream: join into first ch-3 sp, ch 1, 5 dc in same space, sl st to secure; rep for 12 petals

Round 11 :

Ch 3, sl st to base, *ch 5, sl st into next base*; rep around for 12 ch-5 arches

Round 12 :

Scallops: (sc, ch 2, sc) in top of each petal; sl st to next base; rep (12 scallops)

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st and chain space around (tidy edge)

Round 14 :

Optional picot round for decorative points (hdc, ch 3, sl st in hdc) around

Round 15 :

Fasten off and weave ends. Block flat for joining.

— Motif 5 :

Round 1 :

With cream color, make a magic ring, ch 2, 11 dc in ring (12)

Round 2 :

(1 dc, inc) x 6 (18)

Round 3 :

(2 dc, inc) x 6 (24)

Round 4 :

Change to sage: ch 2, (3 dc, inc) x 6 (30)

Round 5 :

(4 dc, inc) x 6 (36)

Round 6 :

(5 dc, inc) x 6 (42)

Round 7 :

(6 dc, inc) x 6 (48)

Round 8 :

1 dc in each st around (48)

Round 9 :

*(Sk next 3 sts, 3 dc) in next st, ch 3, sl st in same st*; rep 12 times to create ch-3 spaces

Round 10 :

With cream: join into first ch-3 sp, ch 1, 5 dc all in ch-3 sp, sl st to secure; rep around for 12 petals

Round 11 :

Ch 3 and sl st to base to form arch, *ch 5, sl st into next base*; rep (12 arches)

Round 12 :

Scallops on each petal top: (sc, ch 2, sc), sl st to next base; rep around

Round 13 :

1 sc in each st and chain space around to tidy edge

Round 14 :

Optional picot round if desired, then fasten off and weave ends. Block motif flat.

Info :

You now have five blocked motifs. Before joining: lay motifs face-up in a straight line, aligning petals and arches so joins fall at even points. The pictured runner uses joining points at three connectors across each motif pair: two small ch loops and one central arch forming a diamond-shaped connector. We will join motifs as we work the joining round.

— Joining Motifs (Make connections between Motif 1 + 2, then 2 + 3, etc.) :

Info :

Joining is worked with cream yarn to match outer petals. Use pins to align two motifs with petals slightly overlapping at connection points. We join through edges by slip-stitching into petal bases and chain arch midpoints to form diamond connectors that match the photo's openwork. Work left-to-right or right-to-left consistently.

Round 1 :

With cream yarn and right-side up, place Motif A and Motif B aligned. Start at the outer edge of Motif A at a chosen petal base. Sl st into the base, ch 1, *sc in next small space, ch 3, sl st in the corresponding ch-5 arch of Motif B (pull B close); continue across the three planned connection points so that you form a small diamond of chains linking two petals together.* Repeat for each connector point between the two motifs (3 connectors total)

Round 2 :

Work 1 sc around the diamond connectors on both motifs for stability: into each chain loop made previously work (sc, ch 2, sc) and anchor into both motifs with sl st where needed. This builds a small, neat diamond-shaped bridge between motifs.

Info :

This joining is symmetrical: between each pair of adjacent motifs you will make three diamond connectors spaced evenly—one near the top, one near the middle, and one lower—creating the stacked diamond lace seen in the photo. Pin motifs carefully and count stitches to place connectors evenly (aim for 3 connectors per pair).

Round 3 :

After making initial connectors for all motif pairs (four joins connecting five motifs), go back with cream yarn and round the entire runner's seam area with 1 sc across all sl st joins and in any ch spaces to tidy the joins. Work neat sc into stitches of both motifs where appropriate to flatten join seams (approx 8-10 sc per connector area).

Round 4 :

Work a stabilizing round: 1 hdc in each sc and space along the connected edges to ensure the joins are sturdy (this helps prevent sagging when the runner is laid out). Fasten off and weave ends when all connectors are secured.

Info :

At this point the five motifs should be joined into a continuous strip with decorative diamond connectors. Lay the runner flat to check spacing and tweak any connector tension so the runner lays straight and flat.

— Outer Edging and Final Border :

Round 1 :

With cream yarn, join at one end of the runner and work a tidy sc edging around the entire outer perimeter of the runner: 1 sc in each outer stitch and 2 sc in wider chain spaces to keep the edge flat. Work evenly—this round ties together outer petal edges (approx 300-360 sc depending on joins and tension)

Info :

When you reach the spaces between motifs (the diamond connectors), work 1 sc into each chain and 2 sc where the join is wide to preserve shape. Keep counts flexible—focus on even spacing and flatness rather than an exact number.

Round 2 :

Decorative shell border: *sk 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk 2 sc, sl st in next sc; rep around* to create small shells scalloping the outer petals and connector edges. Adjust by skipping fewer or more sc if shells sit awkwardly. Fasten off and weave ends.

Round 3 :

Optional finishing row for extra definition: Join sage yarn and work 1 sc in each sc around the entire runner to add a faint colored line between petals and border. This can be skipped if you prefer an all-cream edge.

Info :

Final blocking: lightly steam or wet block the assembled runner to ensure motifs and connectors are flat and even. Pin outer scallops into position to emphasize petal points and maintain shape while drying.

— Finishing Touches :

Info :

Weave in all ends securely on the back side of the runner. Trim excess tails. If the runner will be used frequently, consider securing joins with a small dab of fabric glue under join points and then weaving the glue-treated tail into the join for added stability. Store flat to maintain shape.

Round 1 :

Care note: machine wash gentle in a mesh bag with cold water if yarn label allows; reshape while damp and lay flat to dry. Avoid tumble drying to preserve lace structure.

Assembly Instructions

  • Join motifs one pair at a time using the diamond connector method described: pin two motifs aligned so petals meet, then work three evenly spaced connectors between them using ch-5 and sc anchors; repeat between each adjacent pair until all five motifs are linked.
  • When joining, anchor connectors into both motifs by slip-stitching through petal bases and arch chain spaces to form tight, even joins; secure with an extra round of sc around joins for strength.
  • After all motifs are joined, work the outer perimeter sc edging to tidy and unify the motifs; this helps stabilize the runner and hides join ends.
  • Add the scalloped shell border by crocheting 5-dc shells into the sc edging; space shells evenly and adjust skip counts so shells sit centered on petals and connectors.
  • Block the assembled runner flat, pinning each petal and connector to shape. Allow to dry completely before removing pins to set the lace shape.
  • Weave in all ends on the wrong side; for extra durability, stitch across join seams inside the diamond connectors with an invisible whip stitch to reinforce, then weave in yarn tails.

Important Notes

  • 💡Use stitch markers consistently at the beginning of each round to maintain proper shaping and to avoid losing your place in rounds with many repeats.
  • 💡Stuffing is not needed for this flat runner, but blocking motifs after finishing creates crisp petal shapes and ensures consistent diameter for joining.
  • 💡When changing colors, carry the unused yarn along the inside of the previous round or weave in tails immediately to keep the back tidy.
  • 💡If your petals flare or collapse, try one hook size smaller for firmer texture; conversely, a larger hook will create looser lacy petals.
  • 💡Pin motifs carefully before joining to maintain straight alignment; a small misalignment repeated across several joins will skew the runner.
  • 💡Weave in ends securely on the back; for pieces that will be laundered often, consider knotting ends and weaving through several stitches to prevent pulling out.
  • 💡Keep a ruler or tape measure handy while blocking to make sure all motifs are uniform in diameter and spacing.
  • 💡If you prefer a longer runner, make additional motifs and join in the same manner; if you prefer placemats, make single motifs and add a tight edging.

Completing this sunburst lace runner is a delightful mix of rhythmic stitch repetition and crisp finishing techniques. Each motif becomes a small celebration of petals and openwork, and joining them into a stripe transforms them into a graceful table accent. The blocking step truly brings the lace to life—pin those petals, steam lightly, and watch the runner settle into place. 🧶 The end result is a cozy, elegant piece that invites compliments and becomes a favorite table centerpiece. Enjoy every stitch and don't forget to share your finished piece! ✨

You ask,

we answer.

FAQs

What is the finished size of this table runner?

Based on the specified worsted-weight yarn and a 5.0 mm hook, the pictured runner of five motifs measures approximately 36-40 inches (91-102 cm) long and about 6.5-7 inches (16.5-18 cm) wide after blocking. Exact size will vary with yarn/hook choice and blocking.

Can I use different yarn weights for this pattern?

Yes. Using thicker yarn (bulky) will make larger, sturdier motifs while thinner yarn (DK or sport) will yield more delicate motifs. Adjust hook size accordingly and make a test motif to check gauge before making multiple motifs.

Do I have to block motifs before joining?

Blocking before joining is strongly recommended. It evens motif diameters and flattens petals so joins align neatly. If you skip blocking until after joining, you may have uneven joins that are harder to correct.

How many motifs do I need for a longer runner?

Make as many motifs as you need. This pattern repeats per motif so to lengthen the runner simply increase the motif count and join them with the same diamond connector method. Each motif adds roughly 6.5-7 inches in length.

Can I machine wash this runner?

This depends on the yarn used. If you use machine-washable cotton, launder on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag with cold water and reshape while damp. For delicate yarns, handwashing and flat drying is safer to maintain shape.

How do I prevent the runner from sagging at joins?

Make an extra stabilizing round of hdc or sc around the joined seam to distribute tension. Avoid overly tight joins that pull on motifs; pins during blocking help set joins flat and even tension.

Can I make placemats or coasters from the same motif?

Absolutely. Single motifs work beautifully as placemats or coasters. Use tighter tension or a smaller hook for coasters. Add a sturdier edging for daily-use placemats.

I missed a stitch—should I frog or fix?

For motif rounds, small errors may be hidden by scallops or petals, but large count mismatches will distort shape. For consistent results, frog back to the last correct round and rework rather than trying to compensate later.